wilburwreckage

Not sure if any one else has tried this, but I have just fried another Direct Drive motor

Basically I was doing some intentional piro's and the prop shot off, I then did lots of unintentional piros . I stopped pushed the prop back on, but the shaft is only retained by the plastic cap which was obviously warm and the shaft popped thru [:@]

It had always struck me that on a 3s LiPo setup, a motor that says on the packet max 7.2v wasn't a good idea. Spurred on by my impatience (With the long weekend coming up and knowing I couldn't get my hands on a replacement) I had a brainwave. I raided the attic and found a Scalextric (slot car) motor. Now slot cars run at 12v, which is much closer to the battery, so I always figured these would be good, but probably way too heavy.

To my amazement the one I found (obviously a cheap one) didn't seem to weigh much (if any) more than the DD motor. Especially as now I didn't need the 2 heatsinks I had!! I swapped it over and the CG hadn't noticeably changed.

The RPM is lower than the DD motor, so I have put on a bigger prop ( Ithink it's a 4530), and so far so good!!!

I needed to turn the giro up quite a bit, and add a little more proportional, but so far it seems to be working. I managed to hover it for a quick test flight indoors.

Will postup tomorrow what flight times and performance are like.

Si

wilburwreckage

back to the drawing board...

After a few minutes of hovering outside in a slight breeze the motor started loosing it's performance.


Si

paedbo

My Feedback: (2)

somewhere on this site is a post to another website about using a resistor and a diode, to bring down the voltage from lipo's to around 9 volts for the tail.

Here is the link, click the tail motor button in the menu
http://bladecp.corocks.com/