RobT

My Feedback: (17)

Any Suggestions on how to nicely do the fillet between the fuse and the fin?

Thanks!

Rob

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Cut strips about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, and fold in half, long ways.

Apply these to the crooks between teh fin and stab, withe fold along their joint.

Ues a smaller peices to line teh LE and TE of the surfaces, the horz & vert stabs.

Then cover each side of the horz & vert stabs with a piece of covering to fit the size and shape of teh fin & stab being covered..

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Wogs is right on the money. It's much easier to use a narrow strip in the crease, then overlap the edges of the strip with the covering.

RobT

My Feedback: (17)

Wow ! Great diagrams!!!

Am am doing that, but the airfoil of the fin is a pain to get the monokote to bend around without it wrinkling.

Rob

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks Minn,

I knew you'd pop in with your diagrams & laser pointer!!

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

A bit more heat and a bit more tension on the moneycoat should help remove the wrinkles. Gotta pull enough that it slightly stretches when heated. Make sure the piece is long enough to pull on.

Don't try to pull the moneycoat down to follow the airfoil too far ahead of your iron. Work slowly and have the material in contact with the airfoil only a quarter inch or so ahead of the iron.

kolban

Again, what fantastic diagrams and such an amazingly useful posting. I can read, read, read till I am blue in the face but sometimes these pictures just make me go Ahhh!!!

10 out of 10 ...

Neil

jaka

Hi!
You would be better off using Oracover...much easier to stretch around corners.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I used monkeycote exclusively for yrs.

I actually prefer Ultracote now. But, I'll use both brands--depending on the plane.

Here's why:

Ultracote will practically SUCK itself down around compound corners. Just pull on it and hit it with a heat gun. It'll pull down around a corner without a single wrinkle. Tap it with an iron, and it's stuck down good.

I like that.

Monkeycote is absolutely terrible for going around sharp or compound corners. Little tiny wrinkles everywhere--and you can't hardly get them out.

Other considerations:
Monkeycote has a more shiny or glossy finish than Ultracote.
Monkeycote has more available colors.
Ultracote shrinks at a lower temp.
Monkeycote color is actually an integral part of the film. Pull it up and the color comes with it. Sometimes you can re-stick it.
Ultracote color is only a surface layer. Pull it up, and it's ruined. The color seperates from the other layer.
Ultracote seams to hold it's shape better in the hot summer sun, whereas Monkeykote will wrinkle if you even say the word "sunlight" in proximity of it.

I just used Monkeykote for my 4*120, and it worked fine. I'll use both types, but for something with a lot of curves and rounded corners--I'll use Ultracote. I prefer Ultrcote, but it's not as easy or quick to get as Monkeykote.

mikegordon10

Here, here, I've been doing this since Shep was just a pup and what Rcpilet say's is the way I see it. Moneycoat seems to have changed from what it was when it first was introduced in the 70's. Ultracoat or Oracover (same thing) beats Moneycoat hands down.

mikegordon10

Here, here, I've been doing this since Shep was just a pup and what Rcpilet say's is the way I see it. Moneycoat seems to have changed from what it was when it first was introduced in the 70's. Ultracoat or Oracover (same thing) beats Moneycoat hands down.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I find that it looks best if you MonoKote the stab and fuselage parts before you epoxy them onto the fuselage http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...77/To44248.jpg . The full details are at http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3092876/tm.htm . You are on the right track to use MonoKote because it provides the best “painted look� finish with very little effort. But where MonoKote is best is going around compound curves like wing tips http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...77/Ig13687.jpg it is truly awesome stuff.

geid15

I have a small repair job to do with monokote over an opening on the bottom of my mini funtana. I pulled some of the covering off to fix a problem I was having with the plane getting damaged when I landed. When I keep putting monokote back on it just looks wringly and crappy compaired to the already covered unit that came from the factory? How do you eavenly apply monokote without it getting all crappy and wrinkly?!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

The Funtana is covered with Ultracote. While the two coverings are compatable, you may find it easier to use UC for that repair instead of MK

geid15

Ultracote... I have heard about it but am confused... is it harder to use then monokote!? I am having the HARDEST time getting the monokote to fit around corners and such. It just doesnt seem to stick like the instructions say to the wood. I have trim solvent, a new iron applicator tool, and everytime it has wrinkles... I just want it to look smooth and nice! Do I do something different to apply ultracote?

jaka

Hi!
Ultracote (or Oracover to the rest of the world , made in Berlin, Germany)is much easier to use than Monokote and much stronger. You don't need any other stuff when iron down Monokote or Oracover ...just an iron.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Unfortunately, they changed Monokote a couple of years ago. Now, it doesn't shrink worth a d*mn unless you really put the heat to it. They also did something to the adhesive formula. It doesn't adhere as well as the older monokote unless you put the heat to it.

For shrinking and adhering, you will be borderline on blowing a hole in it, forget about using an iron with it anymore.

geid15

So if they changed the adheisive formula and it doesnt shrink worth a da*# then what good is it anymore?

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

It isn't any good.

Except for my old stock of Monokote, I now use Ultracote. The old stock of Monokote is primarily for repairs of existing monokote covered planes.

geid15

So why would they make their product worse!!! Doesnt that mean everyone will STOP buying it and switch to ultracote!! Thats retarted now I have a bunch of 6 foot rools of monokote sitting around and have to go drop more cash on ultracote!! CRAP

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

The monokote works, but as stated above, you may need to increase the heat. In your case, over the ultracoat may cause a problem, as the ultracoat works at a lower temperature, and you may damage the ultracoat with the heat required for monokote. Around the corners, I found monokote very hard to work with, as it didn't really want to stretch and shrink easily. I've never tried ultracoat.

Brad

da Rock

What might actually have happened is that A BUNCH of people have already switched to Ultracote because of it's good features and their profits fell as a result. So to make up for falling sales and income and profit, they cut their costs.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

What temps does Monocote adher and then shrink at?

Ultracote's adhesive activates at 220ºF and the shrinking range is 300ºF - 350ºF for 1 to 100% total shrink per their guide.

somegeek

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

If you just want to stick monkeykote down over Ultracote--then use trim solvent on the monkeykote.

Apply the trim solvent with a cotton ball. Rub it on the glue of the monkeykote and then place it down where you need it over the Ultracote. It will stick. It takes about 5 or 10 minutes to tack up and stick pretty good.

Let it sit overnight.

Get the heat gun out and shrink it the next day. It's best if you can pull the stretch it as tight as possible when you lay it down with the trim solvent. That way you don't have to put much heat on it to make it shrink up tight.

flying232

This is the way I do it and have never lost any trim , Cut your patch of monokote to size and coat the adhesive side with windex that contains amonia, place on damaged spot and use finger or putty knife to get all air bubbles and excess windex out, let set over night and take a q-tip with acitone and just coat the edges. The amonia in the windex part way acctivates the glue then the acitone fully activates the edges and seals them down purminantly. I have used this method for years on all monokote for trim designs and it works great. Hope this helps