Glow plugs etc.
07-01-2006, 09:06 PM
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Glow plugs etc.
Getting my first nitro truck soon and need some help. What is the importance of a good glow plug, how do I know if it's bad, and what type should I get for say a .25 with heavy running.What do the terms "hot" etc. mean? Also, what are the advantages of using break in fuel? Anything you want to point out to a nitro newb be free to.
07-01-2006, 11:41 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
ORIGINAL: ThatsAnEvader!
Getting my first nitro truck soon and need some help. What is the importance of a good glow plug, how do I know if it's bad, and what type should I get for say a .25 with heavy running.What do the terms "hot" etc. mean? Also, what are the advantages of using break in fuel? Anything you want to point out to a nitro newb be free to.
Getting my first nitro truck soon and need some help. What is the importance of a good glow plug, how do I know if it's bad, and what type should I get for say a .25 with heavy running.What do the terms "hot" etc. mean? Also, what are the advantages of using break in fuel? Anything you want to point out to a nitro newb be free to.
Here is a tuning article that will help you a lot.
http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
If you don't know running rich means that more fuel is getting to the motor than air is( This is a good thing) You also will have a little less power. Thus it is getting good lubrication. Lean is where there is more air going it to the motor than fuel. This is not good for long periods of time. This is what fouls your glow plugs.
-OS-
07-02-2006, 12:11 AM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
You definately want to run good quality glow plugs, any of the major manufacturers will be fine. As for what temperture plug you need that is dependant on the engine AND the percentage of nitro you use. As for the .25, you most likely will be using 20% fuel and a medium plug like an OS#8. The different heat ranges will change the ignition timing of the engine, if an improper plug is used you will get pre-ignition or detonation, which is when the fuel in the engine fires before compression or after compression respectively. Just follow manufacturer suggestion and you will be fine.
As for break in fuel, which does exist, in my opinion it is a waste of time. For one you usually buy way more break in fuel than you really need. Just get normal fuel for break in. The break in fuel generally has a greater amount of oil.
As for any tips, check the engine over before initial start. Check to make sure all screws are tight, make sure you don't see any manufacturing waste in the carb, check correct throttle linkage throw, put some ARO (after run oil) in the cylinder for lubrication to avoid a dry start. Pull the glow plug and watch the piston, when it is at it's lowest point, take a sharpie marker and make a line on the block and on the flywheel. That way you know where bottom dead center is. When you shut the engine off, turn the flywheel to match up with the mark on the block. What this will do is allow the sleeve to shrink without the piston interfering and keep you with good compression. Prime the carb, which means get the fuel through the tubing to the carb.
As for break in fuel, which does exist, in my opinion it is a waste of time. For one you usually buy way more break in fuel than you really need. Just get normal fuel for break in. The break in fuel generally has a greater amount of oil.
As for any tips, check the engine over before initial start. Check to make sure all screws are tight, make sure you don't see any manufacturing waste in the carb, check correct throttle linkage throw, put some ARO (after run oil) in the cylinder for lubrication to avoid a dry start. Pull the glow plug and watch the piston, when it is at it's lowest point, take a sharpie marker and make a line on the block and on the flywheel. That way you know where bottom dead center is. When you shut the engine off, turn the flywheel to match up with the mark on the block. What this will do is allow the sleeve to shrink without the piston interfering and keep you with good compression. Prime the carb, which means get the fuel through the tubing to the carb.
07-02-2006, 12:29 AM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
I would start with a medium plug (I use this plug in my s-25: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAAX2&P=ML)
A hot plug might be useful if it is really really cold out and you want to start the engine but for regular use it accelerates the timing of the engine throwing stuff off
A cold plug is I think only used for very small engines like .12 or maybe .15's.
There is such thing as break-in fuel (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUU69&P=7) although I don't see a huge benefit as regular fuel has lubricants inside it already. It is though very important to use good quality fuel as it will prolong engine life and give you more power. I suggest using 20% and maybe 30 if you are racing, once you step up you shouldn't go down though... Try O'donnel or trinity fuels, HPI is also good though rather pricey! For the breakin procedure I suggest that you run 2 tanks idle and then another tank or 2 calm driving (under 1/2 throttle) and then another tank (under 3/4 throttle) and you'll be set. I highly recomend that you get a failsafe, temp guage, and rechargable receiver pack. Your engine temps should never exceed 280 and should never be below 230 otherwise performance will suck, therefore a temp guage is handy for knowing your temps and is helpful as a base for first time tuning.A failsafe is very important because unlike electric cars the car will keep doing what it was told even if the signal is lost creating a gap for run aways. Rechargable RX packs are a must as they give longer battery life and better performance to the servos. Mantinence is relatively simple, just spray down the car (with the electronics removed!) with a mixture of denatured alcohol and water (mixed at 1:1). Then pat dry the truck with a rag trying to wipe off dirt and oil. Then if you run in dusty conditions you might want to spray the chassis with WD-40 and then wipe the excess off, this will coat the chassis with a thin film of oil to keep dirt from building up. Another thing you might want to do after you have run in dusty conditions is to take your shop vac and put it on the blower mode and the concentrated nozzle and blast the dirt off the car. Engine mantinence is also simple, just take off the air filter after a run and put a few drops of after run oil in there and then crank over the engine to spread it around the entire engine. Some may say after run oil is unnecesary, I use it simply because I like to be assured that my engine isn't getting gummed up (when the fuel evaporates in the chamber it will leave a gummy residue). You should also cut a hole in the windsheild to allow air to enter and cool the engine (1 1/2" D will do fine). You should also put zip ties on top of the cooling head so that in the event of a rollover your head won't get scratched. Another thing you should get it a good primer as priming the engine can sometimes be a pain. I use this one and it works great!: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUD3&P=7
You should store your fuel in a dark and cool place and if you use gallon jugs then squeeze them to try to get as much air as possible out. And that's about all the nitro tips I have! lol
PS: I saw in your sig that you are getting the tower terror, although I have heard good stuff about the tower ST-15 I would stay away from the tower cars as no one makes upgrades for them. I would save up for a little more and get a savage 25 or maybe a TNX if money is a huge issue, also consider the MGT
A hot plug might be useful if it is really really cold out and you want to start the engine but for regular use it accelerates the timing of the engine throwing stuff off
A cold plug is I think only used for very small engines like .12 or maybe .15's.
There is such thing as break-in fuel (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUU69&P=7) although I don't see a huge benefit as regular fuel has lubricants inside it already. It is though very important to use good quality fuel as it will prolong engine life and give you more power. I suggest using 20% and maybe 30 if you are racing, once you step up you shouldn't go down though... Try O'donnel or trinity fuels, HPI is also good though rather pricey! For the breakin procedure I suggest that you run 2 tanks idle and then another tank or 2 calm driving (under 1/2 throttle) and then another tank (under 3/4 throttle) and you'll be set. I highly recomend that you get a failsafe, temp guage, and rechargable receiver pack. Your engine temps should never exceed 280 and should never be below 230 otherwise performance will suck, therefore a temp guage is handy for knowing your temps and is helpful as a base for first time tuning.A failsafe is very important because unlike electric cars the car will keep doing what it was told even if the signal is lost creating a gap for run aways. Rechargable RX packs are a must as they give longer battery life and better performance to the servos. Mantinence is relatively simple, just spray down the car (with the electronics removed!) with a mixture of denatured alcohol and water (mixed at 1:1). Then pat dry the truck with a rag trying to wipe off dirt and oil. Then if you run in dusty conditions you might want to spray the chassis with WD-40 and then wipe the excess off, this will coat the chassis with a thin film of oil to keep dirt from building up. Another thing you might want to do after you have run in dusty conditions is to take your shop vac and put it on the blower mode and the concentrated nozzle and blast the dirt off the car. Engine mantinence is also simple, just take off the air filter after a run and put a few drops of after run oil in there and then crank over the engine to spread it around the entire engine. Some may say after run oil is unnecesary, I use it simply because I like to be assured that my engine isn't getting gummed up (when the fuel evaporates in the chamber it will leave a gummy residue). You should also cut a hole in the windsheild to allow air to enter and cool the engine (1 1/2" D will do fine). You should also put zip ties on top of the cooling head so that in the event of a rollover your head won't get scratched. Another thing you should get it a good primer as priming the engine can sometimes be a pain. I use this one and it works great!: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFUD3&P=7
You should store your fuel in a dark and cool place and if you use gallon jugs then squeeze them to try to get as much air as possible out. And that's about all the nitro tips I have! lol
PS: I saw in your sig that you are getting the tower terror, although I have heard good stuff about the tower ST-15 I would stay away from the tower cars as no one makes upgrades for them. I would save up for a little more and get a savage 25 or maybe a TNX if money is a huge issue, also consider the MGT
07-02-2006, 01:08 AM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
Actually, colder plugs usually run in large engines .21-.32 the smaller engines typically like a hot to medium hot plug, dependant on fuel.
07-02-2006, 08:40 AM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
If I really needed hop ups, I would get something different. But My dad's a machinest and I can make skidplates, etc. so I think I'll be fine. Thanks for all the info!
So, do any of you guys by fuel in quarts? I was wondering how many tanks I would get outta a quart. The tank is 5.9oz, not sure on the cc.
So, do any of you guys by fuel in quarts? I was wondering how many tanks I would get outta a quart. The tank is 5.9oz, not sure on the cc.
07-02-2006, 07:11 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
Ok, I picked out the truck, an extra glow plug, rechargable glow ignitor, 2 quarts of fuel, after run oil,fuel bottle, and batteries. Anything else I need????
07-02-2006, 07:19 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
Oh, and how do you reccomend starting and shutting it off? I think I know how to start it. Prime, then put the ignitor on and lock it in, then pull the starter. Is it bad to let the engine die from having no fuel? Like running it until it's out?
07-02-2006, 07:23 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
Most small block engines are shimmed for 20% nitro on a hot plug.
Most big block engine are shimmed for 30% on a hot plug.
The only time I use a cold plug is for my boat engines, .21(3.5cc)-.45(7.5cc) running on 65% nitro.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with them. There are plenty of upgrades possible, even tower makes their own. You must not own one.
EDIT:
When storing it, it is best to let it run out of fuel. Sometimes running it out of fuel will make it harder for starting it later. I just tap the flywheel with a friends finger or whatever object I have to stop it. It really is easy to stop a nitro engine at idle with your finger, even my 7.5cc boat engine
Ryan
Most big block engine are shimmed for 30% on a hot plug.
The only time I use a cold plug is for my boat engines, .21(3.5cc)-.45(7.5cc) running on 65% nitro.
although I have heard good stuff about the tower ST-15 I would stay away from the tower cars as no one makes upgrades for them.
EDIT:
When storing it, it is best to let it run out of fuel. Sometimes running it out of fuel will make it harder for starting it later. I just tap the flywheel with a friends finger or whatever object I have to stop it. It really is easy to stop a nitro engine at idle with your finger, even my 7.5cc boat engine
Ryan
07-02-2006, 07:29 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
ORIGINAL: ThatsAnEvader!
^^^well, that makes me feel a little better.
^^^well, that makes me feel a little better.
Ryan
07-03-2006, 10:02 AM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
yea this thread is useful.. i wish there was an rcuniverse when i got my first nitro stadium truck.. it kinda crashed into a poll and bent the frame had to be replaced, and it never started correctly, probably the glow plug. now im ready.. just need to choose what to get
07-03-2006, 04:12 PM
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RE: Glow plugs etc.
Well, I'm passing up on the revo. It had a t-maxx engine anyway....if it had the 3.3 or 2.5r I would jump on it. So, my dad got me a fuel bottle, and hopefully can get me a tuning screwdriver at work, so I saved 10 bucks.
