BryanLs1

Hey guys, so i finally got the chance to try to start the break in tonight, and the dang thing wont even start. I tried to get it to start for an hour, and couldnt get it going once. I tried changing the glow plug thinking maybe it was a bad plug, but that didnt work either. So now here I am with a full tank of fuel, and no way to get it out. I know you are not supposed to leave nitro in the tank for extended periods, but do you think it will be ok until tommorrow morning?? First thing in the morning my girlfriend is going to take it to the LHS and see if they can get it going (I have to work tommorrow). Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone had a issue like this trying to get their Savage started for the first time, or is there something seriously wrong with mine? Any advice or suggestions are always appreciated.
-Bryan

a8man

Hey man, I have much troubles with mine too. Make sure the carb needles are set flush and are you priming the engine. Mine I have to prime for about 5 or more seconds. Without the glow igniter on, close the tip of the muffler with a towel and use the Rotostart to prime it for about 5 second or until you see fuel going into the carb through the fuel line. Then It should start within 3 clicks of the RotoStart. Try it.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

*note to self* something else to cover in the savage prep thread...

stupid questions first:

how long did you charge your glow plug ignitor?
did you check both glow plugs for a bright, orange glow?
is the engine at least turning over?
is your rotostart's battery charged? what battery and what charger are you using for it? (important)
have you ensured that Saturn and Venus are properly aligned with the Moon and Uranus? (sorry, had to)

BryanLs1

Thanks for your suggestions guys I think it was primed. I think I might have actually over primed at first because when I took out the glow plug and turned the truck upside down fuel came out. I guess that means it was flooded? T-Bird as for your checklist... The ignitor I was using was one that uses a D battery, and I put a brand new one in prior to starting. I did not notice glow plugs glowing, and didnt know to look for that. You mean after I have tried starting it a few times and then remove the ignitor the plug should glow? The engine was turning over, and a few times it even sounded like it was going to start but didnt. The roto battery was charged almost a week ago, but was not used until today. It was spinning the starter shaft, but do you think it has lost some charge over the days, and is just not spinning it fast enough? I am going to get up first thing tommorrow and try again. I have my roto battery charging now just in case that was the problem. For tonight will the fuel be ok in the tank or should I drain it? Also if I was going to drain it I would just drain it from the main tank, and then disconnect the fuel lines and drain them right?? There is nothing else I would need to drain is there? Sorry for all the stupid questions I am just totally new to all this stuff. Thanks for the help.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

if you don't know the answer, the only stupid question is one that goes unasked.

It's POSSIBLE (but not likely) that the rotostart battery isn't properly charged. To check your glowplug, take it out, and insert it into the end of the ignitor (the same way that the ignitor goes onto the plug while it's in the engine). if it doesn't glow bright orange (sometimes it's ok if it doesn't glow to the last coil, contrary to popular belief) then it's a bad plug. if it gloes bright orange, you've got fire. only 3 things you need for an engine to run-fuel, fire, and air.

Next is fuel. Did you install a fuel filter and/or primer bulb on your truck? if not, skip this paragraph. Make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged (it can happen on a new truck, too), and if it isn't, make sure your primer bulb is installed so the arrow points toward the carburetor.

So if you've got the engine's needles set to factory settings, and the above conditions are correct, then you're not getting air.
pull your air filter off your carb's neck, and push full brake on your transmitter. Is the carb completely closed? or is it slightly open? You need a 1 to 2mm opening in the carb (at the biggest point) to have the engine get enough air to run/idle. there's an idle speed adjustment screw on the left hand side of the carb-get a long skinny flathead screwdriver if the idle speed screw is not adjusted so it's slightly open. if it's open, then I would loosen all the screws in the head, and then tighten them in a cross pattern (just like putting a tire on your car, only a cheap economy car with 4 lugs) and make sure the head is tight.

Also, while your glow plug is out, check the brass or copper or whatever it is washer to make sure it's not deformed (a little bit of a compression mark is fine, but make sure it's free of gouges, etc)

now go try and fire it up, and piss off your neighbors (just like breaking in a cam at 2 am, LOL)

*EDIT*

BTW to make sure the engine is primed, take the pressure line off the pipe, and blow into it real hard and watch to make sure the fuel goes into the banjo fitting on the carb, but you've already had it primed if you had to un-flood it (when you dumped the fuel out of the engine)

BryanLs1

T-Bird as always thanks for coming to the rescue man! The truck wasn't getting any air. I opened up the carb a tab bit and bam it fired up! So now it runs which makes me feel much better. Anyways, I was letting it idle through the first tank like the manual recommends. Halfway through the first tank I noticed the engine was getting really hot. My temp gun showed 280 F so I cut it off. I know it says not to start adjusting the high or low speed needles until after the break in, but if the truck is getting to hot during break in that can't be good either right? Anyways, I richened the high speed needle about a quarter turn and cranked it back up. This time the temp was staying at around 250 F, but towards the end of the tank the wheels (truck sitting on a bucket) started to spin pretty fast at idle so i cut it off again. I am guessing I might need to close the carb back up a tad. I guess my basic question now would be is it ok to make slight adjustments to the high speed needle during break in to keep it in operating temperature range? Oh and its funny you say that about the cam break in and the neighbors. I have done 3 cam swaps in the SS now and all of them were completed and cranked in the early morning hours. One of my neighbors must not appreciate it very much cause the last two times I was visited by a police officer following up a noise complaint[sm=surprised.gif]!! HA HA man I love stuff that makes a lot of noise! Anyways, thanks again for all the help.
-Bryan

brownstone101

i had a problim with it not working at the start i had to turn my idle screw in like 1 full turn for it to kick over

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

280 degrees is fine. it might be a little hot for breakin, but 280 is a perfectly acceptable running temp. I haven't even owned a temp gun until about 3 weeks ago...the only thing I've used it for is screwin around (shoot it inside the jeep when i get in it...dashboard is 130!!!)

Anyway, seeing as how you're a chevy guy I don't mind helping, you need it:P (ha...Actually my next car will be an 05-06 GTO...because Ford made the T-bird the official car of the Rainbow Parade instead of the Vette-eater it was in '55-7...)

There is something among Savage owners known as the half-tank lean...I've never really experianced it (or I've never noticed it?) but most people just run the HSN a little fatter at the beginning of the tank, and then you're amazed at the power it makes when it goes down to a half tank, lol.

as for the high idle, while it's running just adjust your idle. Most people adjust it to where it idles as low as it can without dying, I personally adjust my idle to the highest point it'll go without engaging the clutch.

Have fun with it