need help breaking in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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need help breaking in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
need help what is the best way i can break im engine in i used 2 tanks so far its a gxr .28 enigne witht he kyosho st us rtr
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RE: need help breaking in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if it was me personally id heat cycle it in over several days, i did this with my .28 in my savage and the engine is still like new after lots of abuse. if you google heat cycle rc engine youll find loads of info.
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RE: need help breaking in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ah man i typed up a whole thing in a psot here recently on a great way to break in an engine. it was reccoemnded to me by the guy who runs hot mods engine modifcation, he was ron Paris' old asstant, and certainly knows what hes talking about. When break my engines this way they last a long time. im gionna try and find it so i can copy and paste it here, because it takes a long time to tpyed it out.
Edit: here it is. wehnever i break in my engines this wya they last alot longer then any other break-in method ive ever tried. it does take a little bit longer, but trust me if you listen to all the details youll have a long lasting engine.
There are a bunch of methods out, there but i got it from one of the best professional engine modifiers (he was Ron Paris' assistant, and hes a legend amogst Nitro RC). first off there are people out there who say temp guns are a waste, and thats true if your experienced, but for beginners a temp gun is a very very good thing to have, so go out and get a cheap one like the duratrax $20 its not all that accurate, but it doesn't really matter we just need to know about what temperature your engine is:
Wrap a few of the engines cooling head fins with aluminum tape, this is to make sure your engine gets how enough for the parts to set correctly. But you don't want it too hot, so you want it running in the temperature range of 200-220. You may have to adjust the amount of tape you've got on the car at each step so it stays in that range.
1. for the first time you start the car, do it with the wheels of the ground, and let it go just a LITTLE above idle (your doing this with the transmitter). Run it like this for around 3-4 min, and shut it off. Now heres an essentially thing you have to do every time you sdhut your engine off during break-in, and thats to make sure the piston of the engine is at the bottom of its stroke (thats called BDC). you check this by taking out the glow plug, and turning the flywheel so the engine is at the bottom of its stroke (that means if your looking down its as far away from you as possible). NOW you let it cool COMPLETELY OFF. Repeat 2x
2. Now your ready to actually drive the car. keep everything the way it is with the aluminum tape still on the cooling head. now drive the car on pavement. I know its tempting but MAKE SURE you don't rev the engine past half throttle, and make sure you roll on and off the throttle (basically that means don't jab the throttle). after driving the car for around 5 mins check its temperature with the temp gun. It needs to be in the 200-230 range. if its hotter then tat take off a little bit of the tape, if its colder then add a little bit of tape. This time your running the car until the tank is ALMOST empty. don't let it completely empty out. After you shut it off put the piston at the bottom of its stroke like before (watch out the engines gonna be hot). And let it cool completely off. repeat 7x.
3. now you can start adjusting the needles. Do the exact same thing as step 2 except you probably wanna remove a small amount of tape from the cooling head. The only thing your doing different is before you drive the car you turn the needles in 1/8th a turn. Remember to only adjust the speed needles, not the idle needle. Repeat 2-3 times. Remember before each tank turn the needles in 1/8th, and remove a little bit of the tape. also remember to not let the tank completely empty, and again once you shut it off put the piston at the bottom of its stroke and let it cool COMPLETELY OFF. After your third tank the car is probably pretty close to being tuned, and you may need to make some minute adjustments, but your engine is BROKEN IN.
Remember, i know there are alot of details, but you cant forget them.
If you have any questions make sure you ask them.
Edit: here it is. wehnever i break in my engines this wya they last alot longer then any other break-in method ive ever tried. it does take a little bit longer, but trust me if you listen to all the details youll have a long lasting engine.
There are a bunch of methods out, there but i got it from one of the best professional engine modifiers (he was Ron Paris' assistant, and hes a legend amogst Nitro RC). first off there are people out there who say temp guns are a waste, and thats true if your experienced, but for beginners a temp gun is a very very good thing to have, so go out and get a cheap one like the duratrax $20 its not all that accurate, but it doesn't really matter we just need to know about what temperature your engine is:
Wrap a few of the engines cooling head fins with aluminum tape, this is to make sure your engine gets how enough for the parts to set correctly. But you don't want it too hot, so you want it running in the temperature range of 200-220. You may have to adjust the amount of tape you've got on the car at each step so it stays in that range.
1. for the first time you start the car, do it with the wheels of the ground, and let it go just a LITTLE above idle (your doing this with the transmitter). Run it like this for around 3-4 min, and shut it off. Now heres an essentially thing you have to do every time you sdhut your engine off during break-in, and thats to make sure the piston of the engine is at the bottom of its stroke (thats called BDC). you check this by taking out the glow plug, and turning the flywheel so the engine is at the bottom of its stroke (that means if your looking down its as far away from you as possible). NOW you let it cool COMPLETELY OFF. Repeat 2x
2. Now your ready to actually drive the car. keep everything the way it is with the aluminum tape still on the cooling head. now drive the car on pavement. I know its tempting but MAKE SURE you don't rev the engine past half throttle, and make sure you roll on and off the throttle (basically that means don't jab the throttle). after driving the car for around 5 mins check its temperature with the temp gun. It needs to be in the 200-230 range. if its hotter then tat take off a little bit of the tape, if its colder then add a little bit of tape. This time your running the car until the tank is ALMOST empty. don't let it completely empty out. After you shut it off put the piston at the bottom of its stroke like before (watch out the engines gonna be hot). And let it cool completely off. repeat 7x.
3. now you can start adjusting the needles. Do the exact same thing as step 2 except you probably wanna remove a small amount of tape from the cooling head. The only thing your doing different is before you drive the car you turn the needles in 1/8th a turn. Remember to only adjust the speed needles, not the idle needle. Repeat 2-3 times. Remember before each tank turn the needles in 1/8th, and remove a little bit of the tape. also remember to not let the tank completely empty, and again once you shut it off put the piston at the bottom of its stroke and let it cool COMPLETELY OFF. After your third tank the car is probably pretty close to being tuned, and you may need to make some minute adjustments, but your engine is BROKEN IN.
Remember, i know there are alot of details, but you cant forget them.
If you have any questions make sure you ask them.