furloughed ual

My Feedback: (31)

what are some ideas to tighten the wing tube up in the phoenolics other than tape??

RC Extreme power

My Feedback: (24)

Is the phoenolic lose in wing or tub lose in phoenolic.

Milton

furloughed ual

My Feedback: (31)

tube is loose in the phenolic....the phenolic is tight in the wing....

JRozman-delete

My Feedback: (2)

Tape works, but will wear unevenly. As per Dennis Gergits(Carden aircraft) take some medium CA on your finger, spread it around the tube about an inch inside the tube. Take your time with small amounts letting it dry(master of the obvious, I know).
If you put too much on, sand with 220. Works good, and the CA will not wear down.

I am sure you will get other suggestions, hope this helps.

Jess

Flug

I'd do the CA thing if it works. If the play is more than what the CA will fix consider this.


Although a bit more work, mixing some JB weld would work too but you need to keep the two from sticking together by using a coat of vaseline or other parting agent on the tube.

We do things like this all the time while shimming structural fittings that don't quite rest against a radiused area. We actually call it liquid shim. We use a component called Hysol 934 which is developed for the aerospace industry. JB Weld is almost exactly the same stuff...color...brittleness...etc...etc.

We mix the components and carefully (neatly) coat the area needing a little extra 'meat'. We then add a conservative layer of vaseline to the part we don't want it to stick to. Wax works too but not as good.

This method is easy to work with on surfaces that you can set on eachother. A sliding tube may cause you to have a little difficulty
in keeping the layer of adhesive from smearing.

I'd recommend that you do this on both sides of the tube...left and right. Use just enough adhesive to take the play out. Let it set for about 2 hours. Then twist the tube slightly. It should break free. It won't if you dont put the vaseline on it.

JB Weld and any other epoxy based adhesive works well with phenolic. While adding material to phenolic forming blocks we actually take phenolic dust and mix it with the epoxy. Its like phenolic Bondo.

DONT DO THIS IF YOU AREN'T COMFORTABLE WITH IT. It will work great if you do it right. The vaseline shouldn't affect the epoxy.

Good Luck

John

rctom

Noooo!

Before you do any permanent damage, try this.

Get some heat shrink tubing like is used for battery packs, the yellow stuff. If it's a 1.5" tube use 3" heat shrink, the smallest you can find that will go over the tube. Get a lenghth about 1 1/2" longer than your wing tube. Pull it over the aluminum tube so maybe 1/2" of extra is at each end.


Shrink it down with your heat gun. This stuff is durable and adds about .015" for each layer.

TF

Flug

That sounds like a good idea if he's got alot of play....at least .047 throughout the entire tube. If he does it may fit when all is said and done. If not, he'll have a hell of a time getting the tube back in.

The question is...is the tube uniform...and oversized all the way through. If it's wear, then he's got highs and lows. CA, epoxy, strips of tape or whatever he decides may work. A uniform coating of heat shrink will add 47 thousandths to the diameter of the tube. Good luck fitting it.

John

Flug

Oh...If it's needs to be .0471 larger then the factory should pay for a new one. You shouldn't be able to throw the tube through the tunnel.

JRozman-delete

My Feedback: (2)

I am assuming that there is minimal play. As Flug suggests if there is that much play, send it back.

As for "permanent damage" I think this is an alarmist view.

Jess

furloughed ual

My Feedback: (31)

good ideas.....the tube assembly is new, so no uneven wear...the heat shrink sounds good...I think I'll try that first and if it doesn't work, I'll simply cut it off and try again....think I'll just put it in the end of the tube and next to the root (about 1" wide or so) thanks for the replies........

rctom

I'm not sure where this information came from. The heat shrink that I suggested which is used on battery packs adds approximately .015 to the diameter. I know this for sure, I have measured it several times. I have a roll of the material here in case somebody needs some, or send me your tube and I'll put the wrap on (assuming it's a 1/5" tube).

If it proves to be still too small you can add another layer. If two layers won't do it call the manufacturer, it's messed up.

If one layer is too much, it's probably ok as is. THe heat shrink can be removed in about 3 seconds by cutting it legthwise with a razor blade.

TF

Flug

"This stuff is durable and adds about .015" for each layer. "

Sorry...I read each layer...not diameter. Thanks for straightening me out.

I hope this all helps UAL Man. Hey...The ideas about the epoxy work good for many things. JB Weld is some really neat stuff. Of course most would rather use a different name like....structural adhesive. Its the same. The properties of JB Weld make it hard, sandable and fairly tough. Hysol 934 is about the same thing. Hysol 9309 is tough and bonds things like titanium Blade spars in apache main rotor blades. It is not hard...it's tough and holds on to things.

I wrote a page about structural adhesives and bonding characteristics of numerous adhesives in the commercial industry. Its cool because it shows what you can use for different things. I'll open a thread for the modelers because it's useful to know when to use what. It includes a bunch of charts.

Have fun

Check this out some time

http://vetteworks.tripod.com/adhesive.htm

PS The website is mine....devoted to a 70 Roadster I restored.