Ron Eisner

My Feedback: (4)

OK, for those of you who asked for the filler used on the glassed Carden canopy/hatch area on the Edge ... here it is. 3M Premium Polyester Finishing Putty, part number 051131 and/or 05819. Available at auto body shop supply stores. The 36oz can has both numbers listed as part numbers. It is two part and comes with CREAM HARDENER.
LISTEN CAREFULLY:
when you mix it, take a healthy tablespoon or two of the putty and ONLY 1/4" of the hardener and mix WELL. If you use any more hardener you will only have seconds to use it. As it is you will only have about a minute or two tops. Keep experimenting with smaller amounts of the hardener until you get it to the point where you have time to work it. Spread it with one of your wifes credit cards!
It dries ready to sand (150 - 220) in ten to fifteen minutes and feathers out great. A second coat is usually required BUT only use what you need in a VERY LIGHT layer to even everything out.
On the Carden canopy/hatch area I do countersink the canopy into the balsa the thickness of the canopy, then lightly spread the putty to cover the seam.
EZ to use and you will have NO ugly seem where they meet. Pic below shows second coat before sanding and priming. Other shots of the process are on my site at "Projects".
Good luck.
Ron
R and D Aero
www.randdaero.com

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Ron,

What do you use to glue the canopy to the frame prior to putty?

Thanks,

Ben

Ron Eisner

My Feedback: (4)

Ben, the entire process is detailed on my site at "Projects", 35% Carden Edge pictures 60 through 77.
www.randdaero.com

branded

My Feedback: (9)

madmax, was this some kind'a "commercial" announcement?

Sure looks that way from my High Chair...........

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

Thank, I'll check it out.

Ben

Ron Eisner

My Feedback: (4)

Not really sure what you mean here... most of the RCU threads have always helped modelers with questions. I know I learn alot by reading how other guys do things.
As far as "commercial"... when I get questions, I pass on my ideas and the products I find work well for me. I'm sure there are others that work just as well. The choices are always up to the modeler. I pay for everything I use, no freebees.
As far as a "commercial" for R and D... I am not taking on any new projects until March or April of 2004.
Chill out...

bdphil

My Feedback: (26)

madmax,

I found your comments and website very helpful already. Not all of us know everything already.

By the way, where can I get texture paint?

Ben

Ron Eisner

My Feedback: (4)

Almost afraid to recommend anything... but, I use Rust-Oleum "American Accents - Stone Creations". Spray can I probably picked up at Sears or Home Depot or Lowes.

I have had the same can for a year or so and have probably used it on a dozen airplanes.

Be careful... two light coats works fine but it can add weight fast, and if you are adding a pilot, be sure to ALSO secure him with a couple screws throught the floor. I use a couple dabs of Zap a-dap-a Goo II and at least 2 screws.

Hope this helps... Ron

branded

My Feedback: (9)

Awe chucks, I wuz just'a funn'n..... Just mking fun of all the 'stuff' in the photo, was all.....

cap10fan

My Feedback: (13)

Auto parts stores carry Crinkle paint. It wrinkles up as it dries, makes for a really cool texture. It is the type of finish used on old typewriters. I have also seen it at Harley shops. I believe it is heat resistant, so it makes for really neat finish on firewalls as well.

otisflies

Thanks madmax.

I was really looking for a better way to do this on the CA Extra I'm working on. I like this technique alot. Thanks for sharing it.

ml3456

MadMax,

Keep up the great work. Most people regard this as helpful, not a commercial.


Why are you fiberglassing the hatch? I assume to keep the plane light, you are going to cover the fuse, but what are you going to do with the hatch now that it is fiberglassed. Fill and paint and hope the paint matched the covering? Interested to know your planes since I am building my first gasser and appreciate many of your ideas.

Thanks, Mark

Ron Eisner

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the kind words Mark... on most of the big aerobats, the manufacturers are vacuum forming the canopy and the rear hatch section as a single unit. You have two choices... 1. cut the canopy section off of the complete unit and build the rear section of the hatch out of balsa and just drop the canopy on, (you better be GOOD to do this one) or 2. use the unit as designed and butt join it to the forward sheeted hatch area. If you do it this way you will have a fairly ugly joint with a break where your canopy paint will end and the monokote or Ultracoat section starts.
If you build the hatch properly, it is pretty EZ to cover the front portion with a light layer of glass cloth (I use 3/4oz), fill the seem and paint the entire unit.
As far as color match, I send a sample of the covering I use to the boys at Radio South (www.radiosouthrc.com) and they do an outstanding job of matching colors for me.
Hope this helps.
Ron

Tipover

My Feedback: (44)

Why fill and hide the seam? Real Edges have a visable seem along the front line of the canopy-hatch, where the hatch swings open, so the pilot can get in and out

Kevin