SAVAGEJIM

I don't know if anyone has tried to modify the 14mm hexes to prevent them from stripping out the plastic stock rims, but I think I may have found a cheap solution. I started this thread to share with you guys my procedures for the mod. I am looking for feed back, criticism, disagreements, improvements, additional ideas, etc. Please post back with all you ideas and opinions about this mod. I apologize about all of the pics being at the bottom of this post; I have not yet mastered the image loading function yet. Otherwise, I would have put the pics directly under their respective paragraphs.

This is my modification to modify the stock Savage 14mm hexes such that the stock 14mm hex rims will not strip and round out under the increased torques produced by modern nitro engines. The 1st and 2nd attached illustration below shows the stock 14mm hexes before any modifications.


What you will need for the 14mm hex modification is the following:

• 4 14mm hexes, part # 86066
• 8 2mm hex button head M3x8mm screws, part # Z352
• Metric thread tap set to include drill bit and tread tap bit and tap bit T-tap driver. You will need the 3mm tap and dill bit for the 3mm tap. I personally use the Great Plains brand. The drill bits and tap bits are part #GPMR8118. I cannot remember the pat # for the T-tap driver.
• Power drill with key chuck to drill the holes into the hexes.
• Rotary tool with cut-off discs. I personally use Dremel.
• 4 14mm rims.
• Vise to hold the hexes for drilling. A hobby vise is preferable; a small vise will suffice.

Preferred tool:
• Drill press for precise and exact perpendicular holes in relation to the hex side face.

Once you have the above supplies, this is the procedure to modify the 14mm hexes and 14mm rims.
Hold the hex in a vise and clamp it down snuggly but not so tight that it will ruin the hex surfaces.

See the attached illustration (4rd illustration) below showing the vise.


When you drill the hex side, make sure you are drilling such that the holes are perpendicular to the cross slot that the silver cross pin (Z260) goes into. See the 4th illustration below. Otherwise, you will ruin the hex and have to buy new hexes and start over. Also, make sure you drill the holes in the exact center of the hex side face. Measure with calipers and this is where a drill press comes in very handy.

Once you have drilled the holes (you should have drilled 2 holes), use the T-tap driver and chuck in the 3mm thread tap bit into it. Then, twist the T driver with thread tap bit into the holes to cut threads into the 14mm hex.

Once the holes have been tapped, screw in the button head M3x8 (Z352) screws into each hole. Do not screw them all the way and do not screw them in such that the impeded the middle hole. The axle shaft must come through these holes.

See the 5th attached illustration below.


You have now modified one hex. You must do the same procedure to the other three hexes now.

Once you have modified the hexes, you have completed the hard part. Now all that remains is to modify the rims. This is done very easily with a Dremel tool and a cut-off disc. However, a steady hand is required or you will ruin the rims.

The particular rims I modified are the 8 spoke HPI Savage rims. For purposes of these instructions, I’ll use those in my description of the instructions.

Install the cut-off disc onto your rotary tool and begin to cut channels wide enough to accommodate the button head screw shafts. The button heads should be just above the channels.
On the 8 spoke rim, make sure you cut the channels for the button head screws to fin into such that the channels are in-line with one of the spokes. If you do otherwise, you will ruin the rim.

See the last attached illustration below.

To keep the modified 14mm hex in place, use CA glue to glue the shafts of the button head screws into the channels you cut with the rotary tool. Once the glue has cured, just install the wheel as normal onto your Savage and it will never strip again!

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

I think that your idea is a good one, it should work very well. It just seems too labor intensive.

I have a much more simplified idea; use some CA glue when you put them together and skip all of the time and effort. Rough up the surface of the hex and of the rim, use some (somewhat thick) CA glue (I have been happier with CA glue then with JB weld - The CA glue seems to bond a little better) on each piece, assemble the hex into the rim and let them dry overnight. You now have 1 piece rims with the hex permanently installed. If they ever come loose, you can re-CA them.

I have had this last (using Proline Mambos) for several gallons. It worked until the day when I was doing backflips. I landed way wrong (AKA over-rotation and on 1 rear wheel) and the center of the rim broke away. The rim and tire went trotting off through the grass while the hub and the center of the rim were still on the axle.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Somthing I thought about while readin this over. Great idea on paper, but what happens when the hex spreads apart because it's no longer attached at both ends?

SAVAGEJIM

Yeah, you're right. It is quite labor intensive. It took me the better part of an afternoon to mod my 14mm rims and hexes. I more or less did this for the fun of the project. I may have over engineered the whole thing since the mod hexes would probably be more stronger than I need them to be.

I like your idea of the thick glue though. I came up with my idea because I thought simply CA gluing the hexes in would still cause the hexes to fall out (since CA is very brittle; maybe I'm using too thin of CA glue). You idea of the thicker glue sound more feasible because something like epoxy would not be as brittle. I've never tried JB weld; I'll take your word that the suface of the hexes make for poor JB bonding surfaces.

By the way, the fouled up back-flip landing you mentioned must've been way harsh to break your wheel like that! I've never seen something like that at all!

Yeah, this is a good point that I have'nt thought of until you mentioned it. I'm not sure if the 3mm wide channels cut 4 to 5mm deep would weaken the structural integrity of the rim. I hope it will not since my daily basher has these modified rims.

I do have 23mm ProLine hexes and the ProLine beadlocks, but those look too pretty for me to just bash 'em and scratch 'em up. After all, I did pay about $55 to get 'em. Sooner or later though, I'll wind up bashing those wheels too. I got these because I've gone through more rims than I have actual tires. 'm considering getting the Wabash rims also, but I dread the hassle of baking and removing the tires from the rims when the tires become useless.

Anyways, thanks for the tips and thoughts guys!

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

Now the only difference with the hubs, is that the LST (The first one) came with 14mm shouldered PLASTIC hexes. I found that I would round out the hex before I would tear up the proline rim. I bought all new replacement Hexes and glued them all (on all surfaces) into the rims. I had 1 come loose (But did not strip) after a couple gallons and I re-CA'd it. They lasted a few more gallons until I broke the center of the 1. I replaced the one and all has been good.

You may want to consider using the original LST hubs (Part # LOSB3308 or B3308) in place of the Savage hubs. Check it out.

Just recently, I scored some 23mm hubs, wheels and tires, so I have switched to those.

To be completely honest, I don't use hobby CA glue (Not what is sold at the hobby store anyway), I prefer super glue or super glue gel.

SAVAGEJIM

I know this thread is as old as h3ll, but I just wanted to write an update. After 9 months of use of moderate and occasional bashing on my second basher Savage, these puppies are still holding up! Since I only take this Savage with these wheels out maybe once or twice a week tops and ony moderately bash with it, that might explain their longevity.

Well, just thinking about it, my original 14mm wheels were stripped out from moderate bashing activities also! They stripped out from only doing wheelies!

azzman

Jim, what kind of rims are you using? Maybe it would be better to just avoid them? I use RPM Stablemaxx wheels and have never had a problem with stipping out at all.

-SomeGuy-

Its not a bad idea and i've seen someone post something like this before but the problm i see is that what if you have a 5 spoke wheel? Or another spoke configuration?

SAVAGEJIM

These wheels are from the old SS K4.6 kit. They come with the Dirt-bonz tires are are 6 spoke wheels.

As for today, I will never ever buy a 14mm hex wheel and rim setup ever again. On my daily basher, I have pro-line 23mm 40 series and I never looked back to 14mm since I got those. Once these modded 14mm wheels and hexes have the tires wear down to nothingness, I am going to upgrade that Savage with 23mm hexes and rims as well.

ravenlunatic

just one question, how did you trip the wheel?

azzman

I used those rims for a short while until I got my Stablemaxx (and stuck on the DirtBonz) ...not long enough to strip em!
Like I say my rims now have been going strong, I recently got some 23mm hex 40 series dish rims (with which I have bolted some 23mm hex adapters too) which I use as well.

SAVAGEJIM

Trip the wheel? Sorry, I dont understand. Can you elaborate?

500 lb. koolaid man

I was told that unless the wheel nut is not tight, the wheel should not strip. I have had to replace 2 or 3 tires (by boiling) and every time it was true, the wheel nut was loose. Normaly it was the rare occasion of me not finishing to tighten the wheel nut.

azzman

Hmm...I'll try that one...Im thinking typo...now what letter could we add to that to make it into a word related to what this thread is about...hmm let me think...hey I'll try a "S"..."...how did you strip the wheel?" [X(]