rpparral

Ive seen nice jobs from both products but it seems that a nice paint job cant be beat,..what do you all think
and whats the best way to do the paint thingy?

thx

Rob

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

While paint will provide a much better finish (in my opinion ), it requires a STABLE surface. Wood is going to move due to temperature changes and humidity. This will cause the paint to crack. To provide a stable surface for painting you need to glass the plane, and fiberglass CAN NOT be applied over open bays, they must be sheeted.

If you decide to paint, another option would be to use silkspan combined with waterbase polyurethane. Here is a link to how that is done.

http://www.egpworld.com/ultrahobby/t...INGARTICLE.htm

FWIW - I paint with latex paint, then clearcoat to fuel proof it and provide the degree of "shine" I want. Latex is inexpensive, you can get an exact color match and is one of the lightest (if not the lightest) paint job available.

Hope this helps.

rpparral

Are you talkin about glass cloth? the whole shabang huh?
Are theyre any tips on glassing and painting?

Thx

Rob

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I glass and paint the fuselage and wing center section and then use color matching MonoKote for the wing and stab.

rpparral

How exactly?,...cover the whole fuse in cloth?,...what weight?

Ive heard of some using thinned resin directly on balsa or ply then primer and paint.

thx

Rob

flipstart

You can cover with Solartex, including the fuse, then prime and paint-I hate fiberglassing-solartex on sheeted surfaces looks as good but not as ding proof. As above, latex is a good way to start or if you aren't that color match oriented, then use rattle cans, seal with PU and you have a one of kind plane. Gary at www.stencils.com can provide any type decal or stencil you need for detailing.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Here is a link that covers how to glass the fuselage http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3973867/tm.htm

krproton

You'll get many different opinions on this one. Here's mine...

Since you're asking in the first place, I assume you might be relatively new to the hobby (or, maybe I'm mistaken!). Usually, the advantages of iron-on coverings over painting are economy, simplicity, time saving and ease of repair--iron-on coverings are cheaper than paint (and all the accessories required to apply the paint including a suitable paint shop or booth), easier and faster to apply and easier to repair. Most of the time, iron-on film covering also yields a lighter finish than paint.

With paint, you must first seal the wood with lightweight (3/4-oz) glass cloth applied with resin. This takes time and skill. Then the glass must be primed and painted of course.

However, the finish of a properly glassed and painted model is usually much more durable and longer lasting than iron on. And if done well, you can't beat the finish of a good paint job! Often, the people who paint their models are highly experienced modelers who desire to achieve a certain finish that can't be done with iron on film (such as a scale model). Some models are also composite (fiberglass, carbon fiber, etc.) that can't be covered in iron on film.

So, if you're new to the hobby, or just talking about your average Sunday flier or sport model, or if weight is critical, or if you can achieve the finish/colors you want with iron on film, that's probably the way to go. However, if, someday, you would like to end up with a nicely painted finish, well, you gotta start sometime!

And another thing--just because iron on films are usually easier than glassing and painting, it doesn't necessarily mean covering a model with film is easy! That takes a whole other set of skills as well.

In the end you'll have to look into painting and all that is required and make an educated decision for your self!

Tim

John Sohm

My Feedback: (9)

Actually it's www.getstencils.com There is a site as you mentioned above though.

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

I just did my Bonanza half and half. The wing and tail surfaces are covered in Monokote. But the fuselage was covered with Sig Koverall fabric and dope, then painted. I really like the Koveral and dope method and recommend it highly. You get the slick paint finish, but its much easier and much lighter than fiberglassing. Now that I know how easy and how nice the finish is, I would have done the entire plane that way.

cyclops2

At $ 3.50 a gallon for Berh latex in the exact custom color I want. It is paint all the time. I thin it with 3X water.

NapaFloyd

My Feedback: (1)

PilotFighter, I have never used Koverall.. but just received the covering.. I understand about doping the structure first and sanding the balsa.

Question ? do you know if anyone has used 3M Super 77 multipurpose adhisive and then dope the fabric ? Super 77 is similar to Balsarite... I am told..

Floyd