whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

This is a continuation of a thread I started over at 'Questions and Answers', which nobody had any answers for me. Namely, can my soft balsa molds put up with repeated heating and vacuum pressures without deforming or worse? This is my first attempt at vacuum forming, and I finally got it down good. I just went for it, and it couldn't be easier. The hardest part was making the molds, which is why I went with balsa, easy to carve and shape. After pulling several parts from my molds, trying to get the right temp and time in the oven, they don't show any signs of wear. I settled on .020" polystyrene, which I bought in bulk, (4x8 ft sheets), at a local plastics supply. They were $11 a sheet, and I bought 2 in case I really messed up and had to use a lot. It turns out that I only needed a half a full sheet to pull all the parts. That includes the trial and error parts to get the timing right. The vacuum former is a commercially available one, but I can't remember who made it. My trusty Shop Vac and oven round out the rest of the equipment. After the parts are pulled, the fun begins, which is detailing and assembling all those parts. Fitting everything to the already built ARF was challenging and time consuming, but it will look great. The KMP Beaver is not mine, but belongs to a friend at the local flying field. He graciously allowed me to take the fuselage home so all the measuring and fitting could be done. So far so good, and all my previous experience with building and super-detailing plastic models will now help me out. The floor, seats and control column are done, with only the instrument panel to go. That will be the most detailed part, so I saved it for last. If anyone wants to give vacuum forming a try, but thought it was too challenging, it isn't so bad. Build you a vacuum box, get some plastic and practice with stuff around the house. Try some spinners you have and see what you think. When I finish the panel, I'll post a pic here. What do you guys think?

Jesse

foodstick

very VERY nice ! I am just starting learning the ropes as well. And from the looks of your finished product I may start using some balsa for some new plugs..Great job.

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks. It really is much easier than I expected. Once you get the hard part of making the plugs out of the way, then it gets more fun. I'm not a fan of carving wood, which is why I don't build kits too often, but this was fun and actually went pretty quick. The internet is your friend when it comes to doing research on specific items to mold, or even the techniques of molding. All is online. One thing I learned from all of this is that I am very allergic to thin CA glues. It's been a while since I've put a model together, but I ended up using a lot of CA for the plugs, and man, I got some serious sinus allergies from it. I ended up using a respirator, and a fan to keep the fumes away. Lots of Benadryl and coffee to keep me going!

Jesse

foodstick

The odorless glues are not as bad allergy wise, They work half as good and cost twice as much....
I used so much of the normal ca that I made myself allergic to it as well..To much building!

Nice jobs on the parts, here are my latest vacum form projects, crackerbox boat driver and mechanic..took alot of work mating them together, but in the end worth it..

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Now there are some nice figures. I don't think I can make decent molds of people, and I can see where it would be a challenge. Are they made in two halves, front and back? They must have been hard to pull the molds out of the plastic. Very nice work. After I'm done with the Beaver cockpit, my next project will be experimenting with helicopter fuselages for my Blade 400. Nobody makes aftermarket canopies for it yet, but I'm thinking I can pull one on the vac-former. We'll see.

Jesse

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Ah, the simplicity of Microsoft's Paint program. In researching the instrument panel on the Beaver, I couldn't find a decent picture of the throttle quadrant placard. The top mounted throttle quadrant is the center piece of the Beav's instrument panel. I remember using the Paint program to touch up photos but didn't think it would be any good for drawing more complex stuff. I gave it a shot anyway, and it turns out to be a very useful program. I was easily able to draw up the placard as you see it, and you can really tweak the picture down to the pixel. I resized it to the scale of my cockpit kit and it looks real good. Below you can see a pic of a Beaver cockpit from a flight sim and my version printed down to size. It's amazing how much detail is shown even when printed so small. I'll be printing the instruments and all placards using Office Depot sticker decal paper. I've used it for other R/C projects like foamy decals, and it holds up well to handling and the elements. The material is also thin enough to stick well to curves and unusual surfaces. This detailing stuff is getting fun now...

Jesse

foodstick

Nice job, it is amazing what can be done with a good picture, photo program ,and a printer.

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

After several months taking care of other crisis, I've finished the Beaver cockpit kit. The instrument panel took the longest, and this is as far as I'm willing to take the detail. Since the Beaver is a high wing plane, the only way to see the installed cockpit will be through the windows, so no need for any super-detail. Next will be mounting everything, and I plan on using rare earth magnets so everything is removable for future access. The KMP Beaver is not mine, as I've been building this cockpit for someone else. I believe he will install a full-body pilot, so I'll figure out a final set of seat belts then. This was a fun project, but quite challenging, too. My next cockpit will be for a Ty Brown designed Bf-109G in 1/5 scale. Ty supplied the vacuum formed parts for the cockpit, so I just need to assemble and detail it out. Maybe I'll start that this summer. I need a break, now...

Jesse

bayward

You have an exceptional ability ! That is one very nice piece of workmanship.

Bob

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks,

I've also been "contracted" to furnish some clear lenses for the same Beaver's nav lights and beacon. I've got the molds made up for them, just waiting for the clear styrene material.

Jesse

dhal22

man that's some nice work. you might get 'contracted' a lot more after this.

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Ok, after a long wait for the fuselage to be made ready, I've installed the cockpit kit in the Beaver. The plane's owner had to repair some cracks in the fiberglass around the windshield area and was waiting for the correct paint from KMP. After a few months of waiting, the paint arrived, but the yellow did not match. So now he's had to get the paint matched, and is now ready for the cockpit install. All of the pieces of the cockpit are attached with magnets so that everything is removable. There is a lot of gear under the floor and behind the instrument panel, so if he ever needs to get under there, I made it easier to do. Here are a few shots of the near finished project:


Jesse

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

My experience with balsa plugs:

They are easy to carve.

They do not hold up well. Depending on the size/complexity of the plug I get between 6 and 15 "pulls" before the plug starts to deteriate.

My solution:

1. Pull several parts from your plugs.

2. Select a couple of the BEST parts.

3. LIGHTLY coat the interior of the part with vasoline (release agent).

4. Fill the part with plaster of paris.

5. After the plaster of paris sets up (I usually wait overnite) remove the plaster of paris plug from the part.

6. Let the plaster of paris plug dry for about 2 - 3 weeks OR put in a 150 - 175 degree oven for 5 or 6 hours.

7. Mount (glue) the plug to a SLIGHTLY OVERSIZED AND TAPERED BASE. I draw the outline on a piece of plywood, then cut it out slightly oversized. Next I sand a taper from the bottom of the ply JUST TO the line I drew around the plug.

Once the plug is glued to the base you will have a rugged stable plug and with the base being slightly oversized when you pull a part you will have a nice "cut line". The ply base also allows you to put in screw eyes to get the "stubborn" parts off the plug without damaging the part or the plug.

bayward

Jesse I will say it again, that is one impressive piece of workmanship. Thanks for letting us see it.

Bob

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Bob, it took a while, but was very rewarding. I've kit-bashed dozens of 1/72 and 1/48 scale plastic models all my life, but working on something this big, it sure was harder!

Campy, that is a very ingenious idea with the plaster of paris. So far, I've only pulled maybe 3 or 4 parts from each balsa mold, and considering all the work that went into this project, I'm not sure I want to pull any more![X(]
Hopefully, this was a one time deal, but I'm keeping the molds around in case he needs some replacement parts. I clear coated everything because the fuel tank, (gasoline), is in the same area and the rear-mounted carb of the engine is sticking into the compartment through a hole in the firewall. I don't know what long term effects the fumes will have on the plastic pieces. I also don't know what vibration will do, but only time will tell.

Jesse