ken graham

My Feedback: (10)

ok i gave it a try and things did not work out very good. i used zpoxy and 1/2 oz cloth, the way thay i did it was put the glass down and used a card and smoothed out the resin on the glass than used a roll of tolit paper to get the rest of it. sanded it with 220 grit lightly and than used bondo spot puddy than sanded that stuff down. i primed it with dula color primer and all of a sudden i had a bunch of blisters pop up and the glass was loose from the wood any idea where i went wrong?

cfircav8r

My Feedback: (1)

Put the resin down first lay the glass over it use a flexible scraper or card to smooth the glass down and draw the resin through the glass add more resin as needed and don't soak up too much.

Rudolph Hart

You are right about properly preparing and wetting out the primary surface.Remove every bit of resin you can after that,it's the weakest and heaviest part.

ken graham

My Feedback: (10)

ok i'll give that a try on the next try.

jaka

Hi!
Be sure to use epoxy resin (24 hour variety) ...not the glue variety!
The 24 hour epoxy resin flows very well, like milk!

Lay down the 25g glass fiber weave and pour on the epoxy, Use a SIG spreader or brush to spread out the epoxy. Then when everything is ready...use paper towel roll and roll it over the surface to suck up excessive epoxy. Spray paint the surface with 2-komp acrylic auto filler ( Not primer) Filler is thicker!

Redback

I have had good results from laying the cloth dry then using a foam roller to apply the resin.

Terry

aerofly0610

spread with these http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...ers-96088.html

Rudolph Hart

If you do that make sure you use a bolt roller to break the surface tension on the weave and let the air escape

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

You say Zpoxy, was it Zpoxy Finishing Resin? If you used that, you should not have any cloth lifting at all. It is thin enough to go right through the cloth and attach to the wood fimrly. If you used regular Zpoxy 30min, then I can see where it would pop loose. I have glassed many, many planes with Zpoxy Finsihing Resin with zero issues.

ken graham

My Feedback: (10)

it was zpoxey finishing resin, i let it set for close to 8 days before any sanding took place

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

Ken,

I have done many planes with zpoxy finishing resin and never had any popping/blistering issues. A couple of questions....#1 and most important... How old was the product??? all epoxies and resins have a shelf life. #2 was the resin ever stored where it could freeze or be subject to very high temperatures??? and #3 (I apologize. did you mix it correctly???) If you answered no to all 3 of those, then I would be in contact with the factory and let them know what happened. Have the bottles which will have the batch numbers on them ready cause they are going to ask. Finishing resin is best applied thru the fabric and after making certain that it is properly wetted out, you remove the excess with a card/toilet paper/etc... Hope this helps... and good luck when you try this again.



Dan


Dan Hines
Carolina Custom Aircraft
Rougemont, NC

ken graham

My Feedback: (10)

the zpoxy was stored on my dresser in the bedroom so it would be at room temp, as for the age it was sitting for about 3-5 months there and who knows how long on the shelf at the hobby shop he does not get a demand for that stuff, as for mixing it: it was 50/50 mix. just a thought how much pressure do you put on the roll of toilit paper? I put quite abit at least 7-10 lbs of pressure just wondering if when rolling it; it could of picked it up on the backside of the roll as i was rolling the toilit paper.

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

Suppose it could have lifted on the backside of the roll.
The method i use on my Pattern Airplanes is as follows.
After a complete sanding, fixing flaws etc. I brush on to the plane one coat of Balsarite for film. Yes i know we are fiberglassing. The balsarite keeps the epoxy from soaking to far into the wood adding unneeded weight. Normally i use .5 oz. glass from CST it is about twice as much as .75 oz. I have used both and they both work fine.

If i am trying to save every last gram i will use .5 otherwise the .75 is easier on the wallet and seems a little easier to work with.

Next i cut the cloth lay it on the fuse, wing whatever.
Mix up the Z-Poxy finishing resin. I have used Great planes before and Bob smith also. I guess the brand isn't so important.
Then i apply the finishing resin using a soft bristle brush. Not a acid brush, But a nice soft bristle brush. This brush will last thru the complete job so don't be afraid of spending five dollars on a brush.

I use anywhere from a 1/2 inch to a 3/4 inch wide brush. I apply the finishing resin directly over the cloth and brush it as thin as i can get it. Next let it tack up for awhile while you clean the brush with acetone.

Now here comes the fun part. And this part makes it so much easier to sand along with filling the weave and making sure the glass is stuck down. put micro-balloons directly on the resin and rub it on with your hand. You will know when you have rubbed it in enough as it will no longer be sticky/gooey. Depending on how large your plane is you will probably go thru a complete 8oz. bottle of micro-balloons for a complete plane. But don't worry a complete 8 oz. bottle weighs next to nothing. Let this now dry overnight.

The next day use a 220 grit sanding block and sand of the excess cloth. and do the other side the same way.
After that sand completely and be amazed at not only how nice it turned out but also extremely light as well.

As far as Micro Balloons go, Some marine supply stores sell it in a higher quantity than the Local Hobby store. If you plan on doing a bunch it might be worthwhile.
And i have also heard that West Systems works really well also, I have not tried it yet myself.

It sounds like alot of work, but it goes fast and is very easy.
Important items to remember
*Clean out the brush with Acetone to make it last. remember you have a good quality brush for this.
*Microballoons
*Balsarite for film-Using this will cause you to use less of the heavy epoxy thus saving weight.
*Good quality sandpaper I use 3M or Norton, I'm sure there are other brands but these are available almost anywhere.

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

just use WEST SYSTEMS Epoxy , and put it on with a small roller . put the first coat on fairly thin , then aditional coats a little thicker,
you dont need the micro ballons and the t paper

RAPPTOR

My Feedback: (41)

never put the resin on first..bubbles or bumps are caused by the cloth floteing on the resin. use playing card to take off all you can on the first coat.like putting on decals. i have used z poxy 40 times and never had trouble.