We3R/C

Mark and Joe, Hi Been loving my 4d,will post pics soon(Need new camera,old one bit dust) I am wondering about the Mas Props you guys tout.I am having a hard time getting them,My LHS can get the "K" series,but have tried to order the"S-2", to no avail.Is that the right one,the"s-2"?. I am running saito82,14x4?,14x6?or 15incher? I have been flying with Apc 14x4W,but break too easy. Do you guys Stock the MAS Props,or can you tell me where to locate? Thanks,Mike

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Mike,

For the Saitos, we love the plastic scimitar 13x6 props and that's what we supply in the DX kits.

Does your dealer sell ANY master airscrew props? If so, he can get the scimitar servies.

The wood scimitars are lighter and stiffer, and if you don't need extra nose weight, they spool up faster. However, they're not as durable as the plastic ones of course.

Joe

We3R/C

Hey Guys, I was wondering,do ya'll run 5cell(6volt) rx packs? I am running dx-7w/ar700rx,an have heard about"reboot lockouts" when volts go to low. I am using ds-821 servos.I have a 4 cell pack 1/2 a pack,I built myself(1250mah) and so far have had no problems,keep it charged before flying,but have not had any "marathon" sessions with it. I have also heard that 6v is better for extreme moves(I'm not quite Tail-touching yet) This would be a pain to put new pack in, Just wondering what everyone esle has to say.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

I wouldn't worry aboutl lockout on this plane. It's not all that demanding -- especially considering the highly couter balanced fullyflying control surfaces (require very little servo power with big time control authority).

Besides, who cares if you crash? That's what the 4D is made for!

You probably wont' appreciate the difference between 4.8 and 6V. I say keep it light and you'll be happiest.

bajajrider

i was browsing the tufflight site today, had the 4d and servos in the paypal box and decided to look around a little more, then i saw the 'TUF-YAK'. man that looks just like a chinn yak, i need one.
does it fly like a 'normal' profile?
how's the damage testing?
hard to repair?

when is it avail.?
i need to get a slab that i can abuse!

thanks, matt.
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PROBRO
TEAM SWANY

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

We had the first two prototypes flying at Nashbro last fall but they were overbuilt and actually more fragile than the latest version. They had Saito 82s and were 5 lb 3 oz (sort of porky). Jeremy flew mine and he seemed to like it -- especially the roll rate but since he flys mode 1 he didn't do anything really wacky with mine (mode II).

Mark has been flying his prototype all last fall and it normally only needs a little ironing after multiple mishaps. Usually the gear and tail mounts break as desired. On rare occasions, the covering will split-- moreso in colder weather, but it's always fixable with some packing tape at the field and then a few squirts of gorilla glue and then covering patch at home.

My prototype is 4 lb 6 oz with a Saito .72. I think it flys just like a Chinn Yak-- it has the same foil and is virtually identical except for materials used and internal design.

To be honest, I haven't touched my 4D much since we've gotten these Yaks .

The plan is to have kits at Toledo. Send us your e-mail to be notified when shipping starts.

bajajrider

i'm still interested in the tuf-yak. prob pick up a kit in the next month.

saw some vid on youtube, seems to fly like a chakk. NY minibro right?

you guys need a good vid of the yak, and start promoting the thing.
i think more people will pull the trigger after seeing the durability and how well it flys(comparing to ef chinn yak's fragile airframe).

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PROBRO
TEAM SWANY

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

We will have some kits at Nashbro. Stop by Fuelman's tent if you are there.

Joe

bajajrider

Dood, sacramento to nashbro is more gas than i can afford at the moment.

ny to nash is going to be a killer too.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

beats the airline anyday!

There's always someone who drives farther than me.

These are the best flyers on the planet. If that's not worth the drive, what is?

bajajrider

i'll make it next year[&o]

rightflyer

How does the Tuff Flight 4D flying characteristics compare to a Spad3d? I have flown several of those.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

The SPAD 3D is a novel and simple design. It is good as a torque roll trainer, for harrier practice and does excellent flat spins. However its lack of side area means it will not knife edge or do good rollers. You've probably found that when you stand a SPAD 3D perfectly vertical on its tail, it will spin up like a top due to the very short span. It's wild!

The 4D excels at very tight waterfalls and knife edge spins as well as learning to torque roll and doing roller practice close to the ground where crashing is expected.

Spads are cheap and fast to build, but they're really not designed to crash like the 4D. The plastic will eventually tear, and aluminum will get bent and need to be replaced long before a 4D will show signs of wear from the same crashes. The short span on the spad also means normal turns aren't as tight and tend to "mush" more than a conventional design.

The 4D has some flexibility in the design that allows for crashes to not break the radio, controls or anything that would requre re-gluing. Consequently, it suffers from some lack of precision at high speed and low speed high alfa knife edge.

The new Tuf-Yak excells in all areas, but does not have quite the durability of the 4D which is meant to be crashed as often as necessary.

bajajrider

well, i finally pulled the trigger on a tuf-yak.

start building as soon as i get my hands on it. pretty detailed instruction manual dood. hope i can glue it up straight.

now the search for another 82.


matt.

glowplugboy

My Feedback: (17)

You will love it. I have a worn out OS Max .70 Surpass and it hovers at about 1/3rd throttle. You can't break it. It has taught me how to 3D.

Regards,
GPB

livingdeadbeat

This may have already been covered in previous posts, but I replaced the nyrod with a solid wire control rod and eliminated all of the flutter in the elevator. No counter weights needed and zero flutter even at full throttle.

Ultimate99

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: larger"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS">Cool deadbeat If your coro fuse stays tight I bet it will continue to work well. We tried solid pushrods originally but found that because of the flex of the bat the plane would hunt or porpoise trying to fly straight. The rudder would be worse because there is no coro to support the bat in that direction.</span></span></div>

David3658

I got my 4D finnished today here is a short video of me hovering it.. I will wring it out more next time....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_20..._1/key_/tm.htm

gws_003

Hey,you linked the forum,and not your good vid....You know what you would earn on the PB,,,,FT......

David3658

opps lol lol I copy and paste all this stuff wronge copy lol this is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkuTMxZ9B60

gws_003

That's cool,nice flying,I get confused trying to link this and that too.

ThumbSkull

My Feedback: (57)

At least it wasn't a double post.[sm=wink_smile.gif]

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

I recently moved my workshop and found a totaly forgoten box delivered to me in march 2004....

I am assembling my tuff 4D with a small 18 years delay .