easy vee input needed!
#226
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Miss Madison huh? Sounds like a good name for a boat!
I tried your My Space link and all I got was some pictures of some ugly guy (me).
Feel free to post some shots in the OT-Boats forum as it's been kind of slow in there and we need some space filler. People that aren't My Space members wouldn't be able to see them anyway.
I tried your My Space link and all I got was some pictures of some ugly guy (me).
Feel free to post some shots in the OT-Boats forum as it's been kind of slow in there and we need some space filler. People that aren't My Space members wouldn't be able to see them anyway.
#227
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RE: easy vee input needed!
ahh, i forgot about that, looks like i'll have to gets the codes for em all. i work on that later. and ron, what ot-boats forum are you talking about??? on myspace??
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RE: easy vee input needed!
heres the pics you've all been waiting for. [img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]
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RE: easy vee input needed!
i hate codes!
the trim tabs i made following topsecrets design
my zen 260 from bonzi with the zippkits mounts, and home made coil bracket
the chinese exhaust i got off ebay
motor dry fitted into the hull
motor and exhuast in hull, had the clearance the bulkhead to make the pipe fit
trim tabs and muffler
motor exhuast and radio box dry fitted
base of my hatch cover
rough idea of the hatch when finished
the trim tabs i made following topsecrets design
my zen 260 from bonzi with the zippkits mounts, and home made coil bracket
the chinese exhaust i got off ebay
motor dry fitted into the hull
motor and exhuast in hull, had the clearance the bulkhead to make the pipe fit
trim tabs and muffler
motor exhuast and radio box dry fitted
base of my hatch cover
rough idea of the hatch when finished
#231
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RE: easy vee input needed!
the coil relocate bracket i made is aluminum with stainless bolts... do i need a ground strap for the coil or no? and i never got a reply to my question about running a muffler on a water cooled pipe. is it ok or can you only run it on a dry pipe?
#232
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Im asuming yours has a chamber built into the pipe for cooling? no water is actually entering the pipe itself it just passes through this chamber and out again?.If so no problems with a muffler at all ,my pipe has a muffler on the end mines the o ring type so water ciculates between the two o rings to cool it.
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Mart is not too much in the front that engine?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
#234
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RE: easy vee input needed!
i've also got some cerama-coat laying around that im thinking about 'painting' the exhaust with from when i used it on the intake,heads, and headers in my truck. it lowered underhood temps by about 20degrees. should work well in the boat
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RE: easy vee input needed!
ORIGINAL: s2sinner
Mart is not too much in the front that engine?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
Mart is not too much in the front that engine?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
#236
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RE: easy vee input needed!
ORIGINAL: motrcyclryan
i've also got some cerama-coat laying around that im thinking about 'painting' the exhaust with from when i used it on the intake,heads, and headers in my truck. it lowered underhood temps by about 20degrees. should work well in the boat
i've also got some cerama-coat laying around that im thinking about 'painting' the exhaust with from when i used it on the intake,heads, and headers in my truck. it lowered underhood temps by about 20degrees. should work well in the boat
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RE: easy vee input needed!
will do mart. i like the look of the stainless but with running a hatch, and limited clearance i figure any little bit will help. and as far i my motor being mounted ... i cut slits in the rails so i can move the engine forward or back if needed. i got a little ansy and wanted to it in the hull. i just cant wait to get the running gear on her , shoot some paint and get it wet. weather is getting nicer everyday.
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Did you pinch that idea off me lol,the slots i mean ,by the way you can also wrap your pipe in this stuff to help insulate things against the heat?.Make sure you have air scoops to get air in and somewhere for heat to escape too if your running a hatch.I used these stainless ones on my stepped vee they were cheap too.Ignore that you allready have plenty in the hatch allready,looks nice too.
[link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Heat-Wrap-for-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-1-x-15_W0QQitemZ300208340392QQihZ020QQcategoryZ38786QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/link]
[link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Heat-Wrap-for-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-1-x-15_W0QQitemZ300208340392QQihZ020QQcategoryZ38786QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/link]
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RE: easy vee input needed!
i used to use header wraps untill i got my hands on ceramacoat. the team i used to drag race with started usuing this stuff because its easier to apply, looks a little better, and almost never needs to be replaced. not to mention ran 8 degrees cooler compared to the wraps using a laser thermogun. as far as the venting, the louvers i have should be plenty. im still playing around with scoops and placement. I know this boat was designed to run with out a hatch... but i like the looks better. looks more complete. and wont look like everyone else's
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Hi mate i was just thinking if you didnt want to lose the stainless finnish in case you use the pipe in another boat dwon the line,no problem if you like the coating idea use it.As far as the hatch goes it looks good just make sure you use scoops of some kind or open the front of the cockpit a bit,some have used mesh in the windows but be carefull not to make them too big.remember what goes in needs to come out fast so the rule is normally you need twice as much opening for the escaping air to stop a pressure build up.Those vents i have i got from a mate who sells them in case your interested,anyway heres some they work well and look nice too .
[link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stainless-steel-40-mm-air-vent-zenoah-car-boat-etc_W0QQitemZ120234738012QQihZ002QQcategoryZ2564QQ rdZ1QQssPageNameZWD10VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638 .m127[/link]
[link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stainless-steel-40-mm-air-vent-zenoah-car-boat-etc_W0QQitemZ120234738012QQihZ002QQcategoryZ2564QQ rdZ1QQssPageNameZWD10VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638 .m127[/link]
#241
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RE: easy vee input needed!
ORIGINAL: martno1fan
You see theres the missconception again balance is found by motor placement when everything else is mounted in the boat,so it is put where the boat will ballance at arround 30% not the motor is put at 30%.Lots of guys used to think you measured 30% from the transom to the plug to balance the boat which is total rubbish,as i say when you have hardware on and radio box etc fitted or at least placed in the hull then you can add the motor to find the ballance point and mark for mounts.When you build a boat the motor should be the last thing you fasten in in an ideal world.
ORIGINAL: s2sinner
Mart is not too much in the front that engine?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
Mart is not too much in the front that engine?
Just wondering because you say all the time 30%.....
Or you have measured with out the pipe ?
I agree with you....The point is that your motor look too much in the front....thats the reason I ask....If is balance there is not a probelm for me
#242
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RE: easy vee input needed!
Did you pinch that idea off me lol,the slots i mean
#243
RE: easy vee input needed!
If that's a Zenoah in there I'd put the cg at 32 or 33% and it might still be kinda light on the nose. Actually that's based on my boat, but just be prepared in case it's kinda loose. If Joe recommends 30% I'm sure that's where it should be. Doug
#244
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RE: easy vee input needed!
From the Easy Vee manual:
"Set the engine between the rails and try to center the carb in the cutout of the engine rail.
If you are using an engine other than a Zenoah, the target CG is 34 percent of the hull length, measured from the transom forward."
Joe Petro
"Set the engine between the rails and try to center the carb in the cutout of the engine rail.
If you are using an engine other than a Zenoah, the target CG is 34 percent of the hull length, measured from the transom forward."
Joe Petro
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RE: easy vee input needed!
hey joe... since im using your mounts in your hull... got any tricks up your sleeve for how to tighten the motor mounts bolts under the pull start??? i cant for the life of me figure out how to get an allen wrench in there and get anywhere close to em, let alone have room to turn it.