Kdill2160

Next the shaft install...
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Slip the main shaft through the lower main bearing so a small bit of it is protruding... Next put one of the precision shims on the shaft...



Ken

Kdill2160

The next step you need to think ahead... put the Main Gear Wheel with Cross hole in place above the space where the Main Gear Wheel sits...



Next slip the Main Shaft down just a bit to make clearance for the Main Gear Wheel, the trick is to keep the precision shim on the shaft... Next slip the Main Gear Wheel into position below the Main Gear Wheel With Cross Hole... The REALLY tricky part is next, you need a very thin pair of tweezers and any small, long round object... A small hex driver is perfect... Use the tweezers to insert another precision shim between the two gears, use the shank of the hex drive through the top bore of the upper gear to help hold the shim in place and/or move it into position as you bring the main shaft through the gears all the way...



Ken

Kdill2160

Step Four completed...
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The last things to do before moving on to the next step are to install the m2X16 Slotted Head Screw (Too short or wrong screw. I did not measure it yet...) in the Main Gear Wheel With Cross Hole, install the last precision shim and the shaft collar on the main shaft, no problems here except the provided screw is too short and does not even clear the nut on the other side... I'll see it I have a SHC Screw long enough to replace this one...



Ken

Kdill2160

Schritt Fünf…
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Step five is installing the jackshaft... Here's a pic of the parts needed... Pay attention the the different thickness shims... They go in a particular order...



Ken

Kdill2160

In step five I've basically thrown out the manual and the order the shims are placed on the jackshaft... The reason I say this is my Main Gear Wheel With Cross Hole has so much run-out it's more a game of hit or miss on the alignment with the jackshaft Pinion Gear. The purpose of the shims and plastic spacer is to center the jackshaft Pinion gear on the teeth of the Main Gear Wheel With Cross Hole and remove excessive end play. Also the thinner shims are used as bearing surfaces... Fortunately I have a selection of 3mm shims and I'll do what I need to get things in alignment and remove any excess endplay... Another thing is: In the manual they show the plastic spacer running directly against the bearing race, less than ideal setup.



Ken

Kdill2160

Step Five done...
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I made up a couple spacers out of delrin, I also put one under the tail belt drive pulley to center the pulley in the boom opening...





Ken

Kdill2160

Schritt Sechs…
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In step six I start the tail boom assembly... It starts with the tail gearbox... Here's a pic of the parts...



Ken

Kdill2160

Illustration 10...
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In the manual it shows installing the bearings in the tail gearbox sides. Mine were already installed... Actually all of the bearing that are fixed in CF plates are pre-installed... Also in this step I need to attach the link ball to the tail pitch slider using a m2X10 Slotted Head Screw and a small spacer... Here's a pic of the parts...



Ken

Kdill2160

Here's a pic of the tail case side plates...
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These already had the bearings installed in them...



Ken

Kdill2160

Schritt sechs fuhr fort
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Continuing on with Step Six in the manual... In the next part of step six I need to assemble the Tail Pitch Slider... I showed a pic of the parts earlier... Here's a pic after assembling it... I used a m2X10 Slotted Head Screw and m2 nut to mount the link ball with the small spacer below it to the pitch slider housing...



My pitch slider came mostly assembled with the bearing pressed in as well as the slider core... Be sure to use threadlocker on the fasteners...

Ken

Kdill2160

More of step six...
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Here's a pic of the remaining parts used in step six... Quite a bit more to do...



Illustration 10/1 shows the belt after "fishing" it through the boom... Also installation of the two equal length plastic spacers in the boom with the belt around them... Here's a pic after I installed one of them with the other just started... BTW: I'm just using the screw to hold the first one in place while I work on the second... Make sure the spacers are aligned with the crossholes in the boom...



Ken

Kdill2160

Start with the Vertical Fin side...
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I started the assembly of the gear case by using a m2.5X6 SHC Screw to mount the longer plastic spacer to the tail case side/Fin in the rearmost hole on the fin, and rear most hole in the side plate. Next insert one of the two m2.5X25 Slotted Head Screws through the fin and one through the side plate... Finally slip two of the nylon spacers with the curved face on the shanks of the screws(curved side facing in towards the boom)...



Ken

Kdill2160

Next put that assembly on the boom, slip the two screws through the holes(and Spacers) and out the other side of the boom...



Ken

Kdill2160

Prepare the tail rotor shaft...
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Put the pulley and the 3mm spacer on the tail shaft... Put the .5mm shim on the spacer side and put the 1mm shim on the pulley side... Pay atttention to the flats on the tail shaft...



Ken

Kdill2160

Install the tail rotor shaft...
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Insert the pulley end of the shaft into the bearing in the side plate mounted with the fin...



Ken

Kdill2160

A little more assembly...
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Place the remaining two nylon spacers with the curved faces towards the boom on the shanks of the protruding screws...



Next place the other side plate over the shaft and the screws...(Bearing flanges to the inside on both side plates)...



Ken

Kdill2160

Secure the sides together...
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The tail bellcrank bracket serves as the opposite threaded fastener for the two m2.5x25 Screws... As you assemble this tighten one of the screws a little than the other... You will notice the end of the Tail Side Case is being drawn closer to the plastic spacer... Keep tightening one than the other screw until the two parts are drawn together but NOT TOO TIGHT! Apply a little threadlocker to the two screws before assembly...



Ken

Kdill2160

Here's where I need to comment... This is THE "SLICKEST" "TRICKEST" TAIL ASSEMBLY I'VE EVER SEEN!!!! Period.

It is a simple elegant design... I was asked why I purchased such an expensive heli... Well part of the reason is this tail assembly... This may sound a little strange, but my thinking goes like this: I like this heli for its looks and mechanical design. Anyone who can come up with a design like this deserves some of my money!!! Add to that the undeniable performance and the other goodies (yet to come!) and this is one awesome machine... Plus I really like European manufacturing... There is some serious engineering hidden in these simple components...

Ken

Kdill2160

Button it all up...
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The last thing to do is secure the end of the Tail case side to the long plastic spacer with a m2.5X6 SHC Screw... I went a little further and measured the gap between the bearing flanges... My install required an additional .5mm shim on the pulley side to take up the end play and center the pulley precisely... No biggie at all, it was very close with the provided shims...



Ken

Kdill2160

Schritt sieben…
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Step seven is assembling the tail rotor hub and blade grips etc... Here's a pic of the parts needed for assembly...



I'll start by preparing all of the sub-assemblies... A small disapointment: The tail blades have Hirobo markings on them... NOT helitec... I sure wish my kit came with some nice CF tail blades from Helitec... I do not know what model they are from...

Ken

Kdill2160

The sub-assemblies...
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Wrong parts? Missing parts? Extra Parts? I dunno... The manual shows some 2mm spacers used on the tail blade grips under the link balls, my kit had no spacers included... It did however contain these m2 nylon insert lock nuts... They are not identified anywhere... YET... I made some 2mm spacers out of some SS tubing... Installed them as per the pics... The problem is there are only three or four threads reaching into the blade grip... Not good enough, the other problem is the screws cannot be much longer because one of the blade grip bearings is directly in the path of the screw hole... I made my spacers slightly under 2mm, I will probably take them down to 1.5mm just to have more threads securing the link balls... As long as there's no mechanical problem doing this... ie: binding, loss of travel...



Ken

Kdill2160

The Tail Rotor sub-assemblies...
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Here's a pic after completion of the tail rotor sub-assembies...



Ken

Kdill2160

There are two bearings in the pitch slider, there is very little slop if any at all... The link balls are mounted fixed in position. It is actually a very silmple and elegant design... Very smooth... A couple interesting things about the blade grips... The blade grip bearing races sit on the OD of the end of the tail rotor hub... Instead of the bearing race pulled against the end of the tail rotor hub as in most installations... They are fully supported on the inside of the race instead of the edge... Another thing is the grips are free to "collapse" on the rotor hub or "expand" under centrifigal force approx 1/16"... I'd prefer if there was no movement on the rotor hub... Perhaps machining off a little of each side of the tail rotor hub is in order, then the washers on the SHC screws will be right at the outer edge of the bearing race eliminating the travel on the tail rotor hub... I see no problem in flight with the std design as the centrifigal force will put everthing in place...

Ken