Sport_Pilot

My Fox .35 drops from just under 10,000 to about 8,500 from two stroke to four stroke with a 10-6. But I don't know if that helps.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

A 4 oz. uniflow tank from Brodak is $15.00 + shipping. I was a bit surprised to see they cost that much (they must be made of gold or something [sm=frown.gif]) never the less, a $20.00 investment in only a fuel tank is not very attractive to me, so I had a look around in my shop and the shop at work. I found a couple of empty 4 oz. Tap Magic oil cans, so I modified one to try as a uniflow tank. I haven't soldered the end cap on yet, I probably won't until I get ready to fly it. My usual C/L field ( beside my house) has 6' standing corn in it right now so it will be this weekend before I can do a actual test flight. In case my pictures aren't clear, the tube with the green plug is the vent, the curved tube coming from the top is the uniflow tube, and the straight tube on the outside edge is the line to the engine.

Jim Thomerson

I think Brodak sells tank kits, presumably cheaper. I have a box full of old metal tanks and by the time I finish modifying one to suit, I have probably spent more time than you did. Good for you!

Jim

iskandar taib

My Feedback: (5)

I've heard of people angling the vent so that it faces the direction of travel. Not a universal practice, of course.

Why not use muffler pressure? I don't know. A lot of people do, a lot of people don't.

Me, I just use bladders..

iskandar taib

My Feedback: (5)

I'll betcha those corned beef tins would make great tanks, if you could just figure out how to get the beef out first without removing the bottom of the can..



You think those Brodak tanks are expensive -- back when people were flying Slow Combat, you'd buy uniflo chicken hopper tanks for $15, and destroy them in a crash or midair. No wonder I never did fly Slow very much..

gcb

Isky,
Where's the beef?

GRRC,
You don't have to use metal tanks. Many (including me) are converting plastic RC clunk tanks to uniflow...much cheaper and infinitely easier to find than metal (excluding home-made ).

George

Sport_Pilot

Great when the plastic tanks fit. Many times they are too long.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

I finally got a chance to test fly my new homemade uniflow tank. The engine definately ran stronger, but there was no chance af a 4-2-4 break. I made several flights with differant needle settings, I am satisified with the way the tank worked, but will still try a plastic tank conversion. BTW...the muffler caused over heating problems, so I just removed it. Thanks for everyones help!

Jim Thomerson

I hadn't paid any attention to your engine. Unless you have the Super Tigre 35 stunt, with an S on the front of the head and a baffle piston, your engine is not supposed to do a 4-2-4. The Super Tigre 35's were high speed high performance engines. Earlier this year a friend flew one on an old silk covered combat airplane. I clocked it at an honest 120MPH. Don't think it was completely stock, however.

Jim

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Yea your right Jim, no S on my engine. I bought it used when I was 16 years old (17 years ago, YIKES!) and I don't know a much about it.

gcb

Time tends to fly, GR. I bought my ST.35 new about 47 years ago...double YIKES!

George

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

George:

Are we to assume your 47 year old ST engine (and you) are still in working condition?

Haw.

Bill.

gcb

Yes, though we're both a little weathered on the outside!

The ST is the mid 50's version with the bolt-on front. It has a bushing in the front and a BB in the back. I have a .15 of same vintage (2BB's). The finish on both is a bit tarnished, but the insides are fine.
I think the .15 has plastic (phenolic?) BBs. I believe it was replaced by the Jubilee .15.

George