rays89

I see this post is starting to get buried, So I figure Id fire up an update on my truck. I finally installed the front shock mount amongst a few other parts. I guess I need a new body now, as you can see from the second pic. I finally started to break in the Epic .18 motor. But Im taking my time like I usually do during breakin like closely monitoring the temp. In the near future I want to start getting some metal for the suspension, But at the moment my Hobby fund is low, So Im probably getting rid of My HPI MT2 on E-bay, unless anybody is interested and is willing to make me an offer. PM me for details.

ICrashThings

is it just me or is everyone getting a stinger now a days...[&:]

lax195

My Feedback: (2)

yea, i dont like it though. i have one, but i am going to use the stock one. the stinger looks really goofy.

rays89

The stinger pipe has some good points and bad ones, Its easy to flood your engine with a stinger pipe, But it also blows out the exhaust and unburnt fuel out the back instead of getting it all over the side of the truck, Plus it seems to boost the performance, I had a purple stinger pipe on it originally, when I pick this truck up a few years ago, Its just that the purple did look goofy. So now its in the parts bin

NitroBoy24

www.rcpics.net/members/nitroboy24

My rtr gt mods:
-Futaba 3PM Radio
-Hitec HS645mg steering servo
-Hitec HS625mg throttle servo
-RPM Blue Bumper
-RPM Blue Bulkhead
-RRP Spur and Clutch Bell
-Factory Team carbon fiber rear shock tower
-Factory Team/O'Donnel blue cooling head on an AE .15
-Dirt Hawg 2's on all 4
-Road Hawgs on the rear
-Proline Bowites and Ribs for racing
-Proline GMC Sierra body-flueorescent orange and faschange blue
-Theres more but I cant remember what lol.
Soon to get-RPM arms, ball cups, and rx box in of course blue. And maybe an os .18 down the line.

My dads Factory Team GT-
All the FT stuff of course
-OS .15 cv-rx
-Jr XR2i radio with jr servos

sammy1

rays89

What mods did you do to get that epic .18 in or does it drop straight in?

Tell us how it goes once you get it broken in!

rays89

You need to cut the shaft for it to fit into the RC10gt, I first had the hobby shop cut it. But it was still too long, So I had to break out the dremel and finish the job, otherwise its pretty much a drop in fit. The Engine at first has been a little difficult to start, Due to the Stinger Pipe Flooding the engine. Im still in the process of breaking it in. At first I thought this engine was a dog, But as Ive been slowly leaning it out its showing some real promise, Right now this engine starts on the first 2 pulls. I figure a couple more tank fulls and Ill see what Ive got here.

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

How many tanks have you run through? It seems like you have been breaking it in for a month! What is you opinioin of it so far? Mine is STRONG , I have about 3/4 of a quart through it and it gets faster each time I take it out...

rays89

Ive have about a quart of nitro through it, Ive been anal retentive keeping it rich. Im also tweaking with other parts Ie setting the brakes just the way I like them. I have to mess with the suspension because Im getting the rear wheels hopping around turns (need softer springs?) right now Ive been keeping the motor under 200 degrees, does anybody know the most efficent operating temp? unfortunetly Im might not be able to use the car this weekend due to commitments. But I might try to at least burn a tankful if Im able.

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

It won't break-in properly under 180F (at least that is what Trinity says and the same is true for BBs so...) but 200F is good for cycling. On the last 4 or 5 tanks I began to lean it out to get it over 210. At 210 it was still INCREDIBLY strong but leaning it out.... wow. I have for the last 3 tanks gotten it up to 236-242 and it SCREAMS there. I have no need to ever run it more lean. At those temps some times it sounds a bit lean (screaming on the high side) but I suspect that is a product of the short-stroke, as the temps never got over what I said in the last sentence. I love this motor and I hope it lasts; it has really impressed me.

Mine is really sluggish until about 205-207F, then it begins to come on. How does yours run at 200?

rays89

I runs suprisingly well at 200, When I get a chance Ill up the temp over 200 and see what happens. I dont think Im going to have a chance until next week.

rays89

Well after a few runs with a broken in Epic .18 motor, I found out this motor is the one to go with, It might be a bear to break in, But once your there. its very easy to tune and starts in about 2-3 pulls, Plus it is insanely fast, But the truck has been controlable. Ive noticed my track has gotten really small. Now Ive got to upgrade the steering linkage because its constantly getting loose besides I want some more metal. So those parts are in the mail. Next parts will be the bulkhead and A-arms, Which are going to have to wait for the moment for I need a new motor, For a larger truck like my transportation....yikes

Frost_

My Feedback: (1)

My GF bought me a GT off "the other auciton site" last nite.... I am probably gonna scoot the Epic I have from my ST over to the GT.... I am looking forward to it, I had an electric team rc10 buggy like 14 years ago....

slowxb

how do you guys measure the temp. on the engines?

thanks

Asbury030

Hey rays89 and everyone else with a Hopped-up GT can you give me the sites you got it from? Also what is that box called that covers the battery box? Also I have the .15 and i also want to upgrade to the .18 engine i also dont want a pull start so can you guys help me out. I have the RTR edition.

coolman01231

i got these things on my PLUS GT:
Rpm wide front bumper
Rpm ball cups
rrp 63 spurgear
RPM front Arms
RPM rear ARMS
RPM bulkhead
Proline Edges
Proling SUper Holeshot t's
RPM TALONZ RIMS
OFNA FAilsafe
MIP 4-in-1 clutch
Motor saver airfilter

Asbury030

Whats that Blue box called?

coolman01231

the Rpm RECIEVER BOX?

Asbury030

They keep the water out right.

Asbury030

Where can you get it?

rays89

I picked up alot of stuff off of e-bay, There are a couple sites Ive picked up parts Like WWW.shockrc.com and asiatees.com Which are pretty helpful sites. The receiver box will not keep the receiver watertight IE: if you dunk the truck in a bucket of water its going to get wet, But it will keep mud and spray off of it. I thought I was going to need the starter box But the Epic motor starts easy and Idles real easy especially with the heavy weight flywheel, That I didnt need it So I put mine up on auction on E-bay. Right now my truck is disassembled due to an unfortunete collision with dog feces and it is all over and very disgusting yikes

speed demon 00009

i also like teambluestar.com it is a great site i got my a-arms from there soon my gear box unless i find cheaper and everything else off there.

coolman01231

cheaper gear box on www.asiatees.com

NitroBoy24

I have Ti Turnbuckles with RPM Ballcups, RPM Body Posts, an MIP 4-n-1 clutch, MIP Lightweight flywheel, blue ofna throttle linkage kit, clutch bell bearings, 2 basher bodies, and Duratrax shocks for the rear (they rebound better then my AE shocks) coming in the mail from FlashLCD33 [8D]

The parts are coming from the truck seen in these videos:
www.rcpics.net/members/FlashLCD33

Abused? Nahhh! Hehe, oh well the only parts I would be slightly worried about seeing wear on are the 'buckles (there are 2 spairs and they are made of Ti, so its all good) and the Mip 4n1 clutch.

My next hopups are going to be:
RPM Arms
RPM RX Box
RPM Spring Cups
RPM 3 degree suspension holders
Factory Team Shock Caps (blue aluminum)
Trinity Tranny Brace

And thats all I can think of for now. All parts for my Bomb Proof and Blue GT project..

Dr. Speed

My Feedback: (2)

I just added shock socks and I love em!