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Balsa USA Taube 90 Build Thread

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Old 01-16-2017, 01:43 PM
  #26  
Lucabrasi
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Thanks for the update.

I'll admit upfront it's been a few years since I last built a big balsa kit and will agree, this isn't one for a novice builder. There is a lack of detail in the photos that accompany reach step, so I've found myself looking WAY ahead in the book to pick out some of them, for exaple the upper outboard spar termination at the wing tip. That one in particular took some head scratching. Despite all of that I've made it through about 60% of the right wing with no major catastrophes.

I think I'll grab a beer too... I see you've already cracked one open!

Last edited by Lucabrasi; 01-16-2017 at 05:04 PM. Reason: typo
Old 01-16-2017, 02:40 PM
  #27  
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Just wait , it only gets " better". I got everything framed up and was working on linkages for the elevator. I marked and cut the opening for the pushrod, tacked the brace in and bingo. The lower rudder hits the pushrod. Looks like I will have to modify and rebuild the lower rudder.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:58 PM
  #28  
Lucabrasi
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Originally Posted by str8aero
Just wait , it only gets " better". I got everything framed up and was working on linkages for the elevator. I marked and cut the opening for the pushrod, tacked the brace in and bingo. The lower rudder hits the pushrod. Looks like I will have to modify and rebuild the lower rudder.
Just earler I was thinking "I should have got the Eindecker."

Ah well.. I'm in no rush to finish this.
Old 01-16-2017, 04:05 PM
  #29  
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I should have stated that I have enjoyed this build. It is my first and other than some issues like the rudders and no clear instruction or picture of shaping the le where it meets the wingtip it hasn't been too bad. I love the way it looks sitting there.
Old 01-16-2017, 04:55 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for the input, guys. I mashed out the main ribs tonight and have a couple of minor head-scratchers for myself, too. I am going to read ahead in the manual tonight to see if they're addressed... for example, the TE's that I laminated are 1/4" thick and the aft end of the main ribs is about 3/8" I have to see how this is handled.

I was nicely surprised by the die cutting. It's pretty accurate. But, die cutting is still die cutting. There will be a little filler involved in a couple of spots. I've only gone a few steps so far, but have been reading ahead.

Thanks again for the comments.

Bob
Old 01-16-2017, 06:02 PM
  #31  
str8aero
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The ends of the ribs stick up above the Te. It makes almost a ramp when you put the rib caps on.
Old 01-16-2017, 06:03 PM
  #32  
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If I'm understanding right, lol.
Old 01-17-2017, 05:50 AM
  #33  
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As the Founder/President of Builders Slower Than a Dead Turtle Nailed to a Fence Post Association I hereby authorize you to invoke the name and bylaws of our association and claim membership if anyone complains about the rate you build. I'm still a lot slower! I started a TF 182 when my wife went out a month early to help my son and his wife with the birth of their son. He's three and so is the build! Carry on! Nice inspirational calendar I'm sure it will be a great tool for keeping track of the project. ;-)

If you like a challenging build try the VK Models DR.1 I'm building. It has one page of instructions and half of it is a partial part list emphasis on partial. Not all parts are listed only certain precut parts. The other half includes flight characteristics and setup what is left on actually building of the airplane. The build instructions start out with "Construction closely follows the original full scale procedures, techniques, arrangements." and the fourth line reads "It (the triplane) is not recommended for the novice, and is defiantly not a quick assembly job." which translates to "If you can't read our minds and haven't built enough planes to fill the museum in Muncie well then you're $%#!@ out of luck!" I build the Marquis DeSade consulted on the kit design but I could be wrong. To quote Patrick F. McManus the build is "A Fine and Pleasant Misery'.

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 01-17-2017 at 06:07 AM.
Old 01-17-2017, 08:53 AM
  #34  
jwrich
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I agree with you, building an airplane from a kit or scratch gives you a great deal of satisfaction and pride. I have been build since I was a kid. Of the airplanes I have built, I have never built a Taube. They do look mastic in the air. Keep up the picture, they explain a lot.

Rich
Old 01-17-2017, 05:27 PM
  #35  
N1EDM
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Str8aero, does that mean that the bottom of the rib is flush with the bottom of the TE pieces, or is the aft end of the rib centered on the TE with a gap above and below? I still haven't gotten far enough along on that to see it clearly yet.

FlyerInOKC, I agree, you're the champ, but I could be the National Runner-Up on that building issue :-)

Sorry, no work on the Taube today. I hope to get back to it tomorrow... it'll be a rainy day.

Bob
Old 01-17-2017, 05:34 PM
  #36  
str8aero
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The bottom of the rib is flush with the bottom ot the laminated te. They don't have a picture showing it very well. It doesn't make much sencce until you get to putting on the rib caps.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:12 PM
  #37  
N1EDM
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Thanks for clearing that up, str8aero! I owe you one.

Bob
Old 01-17-2017, 07:59 PM
  #38  
str8aero
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No worries, I'm glad I could help.
Old 01-19-2017, 07:18 AM
  #39  
N1EDM
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Str8aero,
After our emails, I still had questions. Your comment looked valid but when I looked at the admittedly fuzzy pictures, I still had questions.

I just got off the phone with Balsa USA about this and the Technician told me that the rib TE should be centered on the laminated TE, i.e., a little 'proud' on both the top and the bottom. So, I'm going that way. He also pointed out to photos 50 and 51 on page 12 that had a side view of the ribs placement on the TE. I had missed that.

Bob
Old 01-19-2017, 10:19 AM
  #40  
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I will look when I get home. Sorry if I gave bad info.I guess our local builder here led me astray. Lol. Sorry
Old 01-20-2017, 07:50 AM
  #41  
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I checked my wing and called our local builder. I asked why he suggested matching it to the bottom of the te. He said that it would work fine either way. I would definately do what busa said but I still wanted to know his thoughts. The wing is almost flat on the bottom so it doesn't really change the airfoil. It does however make the ribbing a little more pronounced on the top of the wing. It also made getting the ribs aligned and repeatedly the same for height very easy for a first time builder like myself. So his thought were of ease and a little for the appearance on the top of the wing. The difference is so little. Anyways, sorry for the confusion.
Old 01-20-2017, 12:31 PM
  #42  
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Thanks for that. I presume that once the capstrips are laid in, there will be very little difference. I'm about to try (finally) to get some work done after three days of being skunked.

Bob
Old 01-23-2017, 07:27 AM
  #43  
N1EDM
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Sorry that this blog is a little slow, but I wanted to show you that it hasn’t disappeared. I am alive and well! J J
After a few false starts I was finally able to get back to building again. The first order of business was to finish punching out the rest of the ribs from the die cut sheet. As stated before, the die cutting is clean, the balsa isn’t crushed, but some ribs (not all) still need some help. I strongly suggest using the Scalpels that I spoke about earlier (Post 15).
The #11 scalpel blade is thinner than the X-Acto and better suited for finishing this cut. Note: Just an FYI – a #11 Scalpel blade doesn’t fit securely into an X-Acto handle. It will slip, and these scalpels are sharp so Caveat Emptor. Besides, when you can get a free handle when you buy the blades, it’s a no-brainer.
For someone who is contemplating this build, the wing needs a larger build area than a standard plank wing. It should be at least 24” x 48” just to lay out the wing. The fuselage will need an even longer area. There will be a lot of leaning over the bench as you work on the tip, so keep the plans as close to the edge of the bench as you can. Still, it’s not a big deal. I said that just for planning purposes. This is just something that some builders (like yours truly) haven’t had to deal with before.
I’m working on the tip area right now. The plans have you lay down a 21” long piece of 3/8” x ¼” balsa spar on an angle. Some ribs have to have their notches re-cut the notches on an angle to fit over that spar. Be careful laying the notches out. It isn’t hard, just a bit tedious. But there are only a few ribs on each wing that require this, so it’s not a back-breaker. Remove most of the material with an X-Acto saw and knife. Then use an emery board for final fit and finish of those notches. Check out the 2nd photo below. The front rib has a typical notch, the aft rib has had the diagonal cut already made.



You can also see the placement of the rib’s TE in reference to the laminated TE. Some of the ribs have been glued in but not all of them – the directions are specific that certain ribs should not be glued in yet. In some cases, there is the slightest gap between the rib and the TE. If you happen to have some 1/64” ply, just cut a small piece with some scissors and put that in as a filler. You could also use fine sawdust, baking soda or microballoons ; it’s a matter of preference.

Aaaah, the powers of macro photography... Now that I look at that filler strip close up, it looks like I could have done a better job on cuttng and placing that 1/64" ply filler. I'll add more filler to that TE. I need my glasses changed !!

Back to the Salt Mines...

Bob
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:11 AM
  #44  
FlyerInOKC
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That last picture looks very familiar to say the least! You're in good company. ;-)
Old 01-26-2017, 11:11 AM
  #45  
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Hi Bob

One suggestion for filling small gaps like that is to make some strips from 1/32 " and/or 1/16" balsa sheet to the width of the rib, say 1/8 ", by about an inch long. Than place the end of the strip between the trailing edge and the rib to fill the gap, add a drop of CA and than trim the top/bottom with a knife or thin saw.

Cheers

Ray
Old 01-26-2017, 06:16 PM
  #46  
N1EDM
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That's basically what I've been doing, Ray. So far, the gaps have been very small and few, which is why only a single piece of 1/64" ply is needed for thickness. You're right about having a larger piece in there - another person has commented on this as well.

Sorry that things are a bit slow on this so far, life has gotten in the way for a few days. I should be able to get back at it late over the weekend or into next week. I'm anxious to get going on this. Once the Right wing is done, the Left wing will go much easier - a log of the work has already been done, ala cutting out the ribs, making the laminations, etc. Plus, I will be familiar with the process. The only problem I've encountered so far is rib R5B (or is it R5A??) that was die cut 1/8" too shallow. Photos in my next email.

Bob
Old 01-27-2017, 07:18 AM
  #47  
FlyerInOKC
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Don't worry about it Bob we know its a build not a race. Sit back and work at your own pace when the mood strikes. ;-)
Old 01-27-2017, 11:11 AM
  #48  
N1EDM
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Default Correcting a bad idea

[NOTE: This is a late edit. After finding an error that I had made (see around Post 72), the trimming of this rib IS NOT NECESSARY. I would leave the comments in for reference only, but discourage anyone from removing material from the rib R3A. As it turns out, rib R3A is CORRECT as it is delivered. I strongly suggest that you DO NOT modify this rub in any way!!]

str8aero & FlyerInOKC,

Did either of you (or anyone else lurking about) have an issue with Rib R3A??

I was dry-fitting the pieces to the curved wingtip together in a spare moment and the pieces wouldn't line up. I haven't shot a photo of that layup yet, but I will.

In retrospect, it was found that the following statement is incorrect!!. In any event, after some head scratching I found that one of the ribs was mis-cut, Rib R3A. If you look at the enlarged view of this photo
you can see some crosshatching on the rib. It is about 1/8" tall and the full width of the cutout. I had to remove this material to get the tip pieces to fit. Did either of you have an issue with that?? Or did anyone?

If you're further along in your build than I am (then again, who isn't??) did you find any other issues like that that I should look out for?

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 01-27-2017, 11:28 AM
  #49  
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Sorry Bob I can't help you on this one my only reason I can think of is this rib set under some sheeting so it didn't need to go in as deep. Other than that you might give Balsa USA a call I would think they would know.
Old 01-28-2017, 04:21 AM
  #50  
N1EDM
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Thanks for the response, Flyer. This rib is out in the air, nothing but covering on it (when the time comes). Now that I re-cut the notch, the outline of the rib is at the same level as its neighbors and the reinforcement piece fits nicely.

Appreciate your trying to help, though.

I'm helping out at our Club's Swap meet today and have an event tomorrow too, so not much will be done on the Taube until next week.

I hope that the next part of the project will be to do the wingtip. It's a bit complex but I've already done a very crude dry fit. The wingtip will take some fussing, but I expect that it will go together nicely. We'll tackle that next week.B

Bob


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