Gullwing72

I idled mine for the first tank. Second tank I slowly drove it around in the parking lot at the local park, from there I just started to give it a little more throttle until I finished 6 tanks total. That was it. It runs between 235 and 240 all the time now and I have a hard time keeping the front wheels on the ground. In fact on the sixth tank running full throttle at factory setting, I flipped the truck on it's back and skidded for about 10 feet. Sense I leaned it out it is worst on the wheelies[:@] I do not know why anyone would want more engine in the Tmaxx..........GW

drewjacobs

Why are you all sold on the OS? Need to look at all of your options when making an investment like this.

crazy nick

My Feedback: (29)

Just ran 2nd tank through. This thing is ready to go! It's like trying to hold a bull on a leash. I agree 100% gullwing. Wheelies!!!! If you want to get away from that ,loosen your slipper up a hair. Drew , I chose the OS for many reasons. I ran them for years and never have tuning problems, idle problems, erratic running, etc etc......... And foremost , longlasting reliability.

Gullwing72

Ok this is why none of these threads can stay on topic. It is funny how both off topic posts in this thread is from Moscow PA. If you have nothing to input into the OS line don't post. Oh yeah by the way to keep this on topic I broke the 2 gallon wall this weekend and my OS .18TM is faster and stronger than ever.........GW

alvinl

We are just passing the 1 gallon mark with our new OS .18TM. And the wheelies are starting. I really love this motor. It runs very steady from full to empty and I am not getting any leaning out until the very end of the tank. Temps are also very good, occasionally hitting 260-270 but running mostly in the 250's. I don't have a lot of experience with different Revo motors to compare it with, but I am hooked on this 18TM. It's a great little power plant.

JSRacer

I love my OS 18TM !!! LOL

JDRACING

Try the EB modded version...it rocks!

JSRacer

Alvinl, your wheelies are just starting at a gallon? Man, I can't keep this front end down and I'm only maybe 8-10 tanks in. So you're saying it just gets more and more power? WOW! I can't wait till I hit that 1 gallon mark. What's a good gear ratio? Dropping the spur gear down to 36 is cheap but should I take the clutch bell up to 16? 18? 20? or just leave it at 15? I think I should gear it taller, because I don't like wheelie bars.

bdd012

ok i got a tuning question. got the good 'ol OS .18 TM in a t maxx. it runs great up until i wanna stop, when i let off it quits. any ideas? i changed the air filter and glow plug and i still got the problem.

Gullwing72

How low do you have it idled?

bdd012

uhhh idk how you want me to answer that, in like what type of measurement, average i guess, its not screaming and rockin but its not barely hanging on either, it just quits, haha, why should i check that?

Gullwing72

Well what I was getting at is if the idle was too low it would not stay running..I guess that was a dumb question..... Try richening the LSN 1/16th and see if that helps, I know it did on my wife's 2.5. It maybe starving for fuel on the low side.......GW

cardgabe

Ok, I have a question about my Tmaxx with my OS.18TM in it. When the engine is still cold... my truck does wheelies on command, but once my engine warms up, it won't do wheelies. I was wondering if it's possibly my slipper clutch warming up? If my tmaxx is warmed up... and its idling, then I give it WOT, it just takes off in second gear immediately... does this mean my slipper clutch is slipping and letting it shift before it even gets going? I think it is tuned pretty good, because I have awesome performance, good blue smoke and its not bogging out like before. Maybe my drivetrain is just finally wearing out too... I put in a new front diff last weekend because my truck decided to convert to rear wheel drive by stripping out the front ring gear. LoL Anyway... would a slipper clutch do this?

JDRACING

Seems kind of odd to have a thread on the OS 18TM. Try the EB modded one...it rocks.

maxx0619

My Feedback: (1)

what glow plugs do you guys prefer to run in your tm's. i've been using os lc3 but they seem to die every 6-8 tanks. i use 20% trinity monster horsepower fuel. any suggestions??

rcdude37

i use lc3 plugs also

who has a pull start on theirs and what pull start are you using, im sick of charging batts, its easier to just worry about the glow starter then the starter and the glow starter as i am right now, and my glow starter has a replaceable batt so i can charge up 3 at one time then swap them in as i need them..
what is a good pull start for the tm???

JSRacer

I have pullstart and the blisters to prove it! No, it was alittle rough in break-in starting it but now I can have it primed and running in under 30 secs. It'll probably be better when it warms up alittle more here in Indiana. I don't miss EZ start at all. This pullstart is light and you don't need anything but your glow plug igniter. I just used Traxxas 2.5 pullstart, I think it was $17.99 and it bolts right up. I would suggest sealing the backplate though because pulling the rope loosened the bolts and caused airleaks on mine.

maxx0619

My Feedback: (1)

i used a traxxas pullstart for a while and now am using a rd stsrter box. little easier to start and works as a stand too!!! use a glove when using a pullstart trust me

Gullwing72

I use the lc3 glow, no problems yet. I still use the ez start for the starter and a glow starter for the glow. I know it is a lot to carry around but I just pitch them on the ground next to me. The ez start battery lasts forever if it is not heating the glow......GW

Timmahh

OK LETS MAKE THIS POINT CLEAR!!! idleing for a tank of gas will do more for your lack of funds than it will for the life of the engine! Period, no ifs, no ands, no butts.....

NOT getting your motor over 210s on the first few tanks will shorten the life of your engine!!! Period.. how much. that will differ, but it can be as drastic of what COULD of been a 20Gallon motor, with proper maint and care, and now you may get 3 to 5 maybe 7 gallons. it is VERY IMPORTANT to get over 210 degrees to assure PROPER expansion of parts and heat generated to Properly Seat the engine parts. ie, piston to cylinder wall, crank to piston shaft and wrist pin... not getting it to temp with the 1st 3 tanks will cause considerable wear on these parts, thus shortening your engine life. ITS NOT CRITICAL, but personally i would like my engines to Preform AND last!!!

now heres my OS 18TM experience... neighbor got one a few days ago... nice looking piece of ABC> first thing i do is flush with some ar oil.. pulled carb, put in a good amount of ar.. flushed it out well. reset up. we tried to fire it up for about 10 mins, would fire but not start. so i lean the HSN a tad and bammo it s running like a champ.... so we check the settings, make sure controller is set up brakes work, throattle returns good, and off he goes... i had him run for about 10 minutes.. get it to 240 or so. never over 1/2 thrt for the most part... let it cool about 15 minutes( it was like 40 out). started it back up for rnd 2 of heat cycleing.. ran it to about 250 this time. all good..... cool it down and do this for the remiander of the first tank.. never much if at all over 3/4 throatle for first tank.... only up to 250s max on temp... let it cool.. refill the tank, and start tank 2. same process as 1st. all is good until we re on the last run.. we ve heat cycled it for 2 tanks, about 15 or so runs to 210+ - 250.... so we ve got about 1/4 tank on this last bit. so hes out driving it get to about 1/16 tank, very little i tell him burn it out and we ll AR it and be done for the night, it was about 10pm.... he takes off and makes a couple laps, then all of a sudden it just goes WOT. we get there, and triing to shut the engine down properly via pinching the fuel line but cant get to it do to route.. so i end up chokeing it out via the carb. didnt like it, but by this time it had been about 30 to 45 seconds at WOT on 2nd tank. finally get it shut down........ while TRIING to shut the engine down, i look down to see a CHERRY RED glow plug. i dont mean just looked a lil hot, i mean it was GLOWING CHERRY RED< i could of lit a Fatty,errrrr Cigerette off of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so we take it and set it aside and let it cool right off. temps immediatly after shutting it off with Cherry red Glow.. 354.. OUCHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
about 30 minutes later its all cooled down real nice.... first thing we do is figure out what caused the WOT. no clue at that time. found out problem later.... was a bad ball cap for the throatle ball on slide... fixed THAT!!!! so we take the truck inside, cuz its cold out. and first i do to the engine is try to finger it over.. hmm feels TIGHT... eww got some grindage. not good. get it to roll but not free or well... oh ohhh....... pull the GP, it was loose, quite loose. looks, well, like it got HOT.. put it back in.... wont tighten in head. oh ohhh. pull it out recheck all LOOKS good, but still wont seat in head....... for shiz n grins. i check the headbolts. 3 of the 4 need 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get tight, one is only vaugly loose....,, ok done for the night so we shelf it. great 220.00 paper weight...


next day we start by replaceing the glow plug. VERY CAREFULLY.. as i gently turn the GP, it feels like it is getting tight, but we procede with caution....... plug seems to tighten up but we dont TEST the theory by turning it too far...ok now to the grinding/binding feel. knowing a OWB dont like to get HOT. i pull the ez start system... its toast. owb is binding up. starter is locked up. wont turn at all. The OS you ask.. Rolls free and smooth.. feels fine with good compression still. hmm maybe its not a paperweight.. so i dig up a owb adn ez start from one of my trucks, put it together, but to test if the engine will even run, i bench it. after a Jibby, for luck and thought, we put the wand to the ez start. Fires right up.. i play with it for a few bringing it up to temp of 205 with light revving then idle/rev then idel... do this for about 2 minutes and engine is running great, holding temps, glow plug didnt blow out ( appears threads are ok). so off to the truck the engine goes. now its had 2.3 tanks. with a MAJOR heat cycle. 350s on 2nd tank... heh wow...
put the motor in the truck, fire it up... bring it back to temps and now i start tuning the HSN and continue the break in....... uneventful with exception to another run away due to the bad cap. thats when i figured out what the reason it was taking off on him...

its been about 4 days since, and the engine is running like a raped ape...... new glow plug tightened right up after the HEAT.. good to go...

true test will be how long the engine runs. but for now, it s a raped ape...

crazy things... the major temps were caused by 2 things. a glow plug that came loose, and 4 loose head bolts, which was factory set at that point...
check to be sure your GPs and head bolts stay tight durign breakin period. his got loose. and he was (apparently) lucky.

just be sure your allowing your motors to heat up to properly seat your engine parts. 220s-250s good, over 300. not so good. 350s.. way not so good, but this os 18Tm survived..

Tim

Indecline099

dang thats a crazy story

Gullwing72

First of all I am glad to hear the engine pulled through. I would send it back to OS for a new one obviously it was not assembled correctly. They should have no problem with a full replacement. Second, I don't know how these nitro engines act up north in the thin air a low humidity and cooler air, but down here at sea level with heavier air and high humidity, idling the engine does get it to or above the 210 degree mark. So if I am wrong about doing that in other locations I apologize. I go by what my LHS guy says and he has been racing with sponsors for 20 years. He is not a basher or a weekend want to be, so I revise my suggestion....Break in your engines how ever you want as long as it is right to you...........GW

crazy nick

My Feedback: (29)

Real crazy story. Well just heat cycled mine. First time breakin in an engine that way. But I have been researchin it religiously and it seems idleing tank days are over(thank god;can anyone say boring?) Everywhere I read heat cycle is the way to go. Love the net. Couple months ago I would have idled this thing for 5 tanks. Thanks everyone w/ heatcycle info and stories 18TM RULES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!1

Timmahh

it really kind of plays out to drive it like your planning on always driving it, ( for you youngens out there, Drive it like you stole it) but just be Gentle and dont get Nutz for the first 4 or 5 tanks. keep it under control and try to keep temps between 210 and 250... your gettin your engine ready for the indy race, not on the starting line IN the indy race.....its really a preferance in the long run. but you can shorten the engine life if proper temps are not acheived. im in michigan, so im pretty much at or near SL..... and the air here is anything but thin.. come visit in july-august, when its 95 ( not bad in itslef) but factor in 85% humidity and now if feels 115. thick, sticky, nasty hot, humid unbearable no breeze weather. so this is a day to fly!!!! lol......
Tim

crazy nick asks-
Timmah answers- Because we KNOW and have Lived with them for Far to long! lol

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

Say, does anyone know which O.S. .18 CV-R engine fits in a T-Maxx 2.5? Judging by the crankshaft on the TRX2.5, it seems like the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP4&P=0]O.S. .18 CV-R (P) w/11G slide carb[/link] would fit, but it is not pullstart. Does the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP6&P=0]O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11G carb[/link] fit? Anything else I'd need like a new header? Thanks.