Wren Turbines USA

My Feedback: (39)

Bank,

Don't worry to much about building washout in the wing if you are going to cover with "Moneycote"

You can actually do that with the covering when you apply it..................

Just have an extra set of hands to help twist the tip, apply the heat ....if you end up with to much ...or not enough, simply repeat the procedure until both wings have the same amount.


good luck,

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

There is NO WAY your gonna warp wash out into this wing once it is built. Smaller lighter built ones sure but not this anchor.
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Ok So here is a little mod i have done for the flaps. They are going to look more like the real thing when done. Now you also have to remember to put something in the spot you modded. Unfortunitly i forgot to take a pic. Also add some blocks for the flap hinges to attach to.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

I dod not like the way the plans say to drill a hole in the spar so you can attach the wings. I made some doublers for W1 and will hold them on with cap screws that i can get to through a hatch in the top when i get that far.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

I found that when i built the Aileron to the plans thay came out to small hight wise. My plans say to sheet them with 1/16 balsa. Once i found this out i had to go back and remake the aileron with 1/8 balsa. Easy enough to do. It just takes up weekend build time.

On the flaps i used 4 hinge points drilled at an angle(Like TF does with there Cessna). On the top of the wing you will need to leave a little overhanging to cover the flap when in the up position

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

So thats all for now. Have to build the other wing this week. Any questions? Just ask i check here once or twice a day.
Pat

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

What adhesive did you use to attach the wing skins to the ribs? The build looks great.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

I used CA gell. It does not harden to fast and gives you time to position the skin plus fills gaps!.
Pat

ADELYAHYA

This is the first model that i built last year , the body was sheeted with 1/8" balsa which it came difficult to bend in some areas in the fuselage , so i'm thinking this time to use two layers of 1/16" balsa or one layer ? ? , then glassed autofinish.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

MAN!!!!!! i know what your saying about bending the sheeting around the fuse. The sheeting in my kit is hard and heavy and does not bend much. I went to the local craft store and bought 8 sheets of the softest lightest sheeting i could find. Im pretty sure i can get it to bend around the edges.
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Well passed a mile stone today!!! Wings akmost done. Just need to add the wing tips yet.
The wing joiners needed a LITTLE sanding but nothing to serious for a perfect fit.
Now i can move back to the fuse and get the wing joiners mounted next.
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Forgot to mention the wings with all servos,Control surfaces weigh 5 1/2 lbs.
Pat

F2G-1

My Feedback: (13)

Looking good!
I just got the plans for hostetlers 310R.
Your right about the size of these planes! I have to build a bigger table! The 310's plans are 8 feet long!
It helps to see other similar designs going together, gives a clue as to what should be expected. Wendel likes the box construction on most of his fuses.
I wish I could take time off work, Its nice to make the quick progress that evening building doesnt seem to alllow. (unless I sleep in the shop, and thats only when I'm on the Mrs. 'S' list!)
On the 182 did he draw both wings on the plan? On the 310 he's only showing the right wing, guesss I'll have to build the left upside down, but I dont think the plan shows left wing ribs with the building tabs on the top. Any ideas?

Anyhow, keep up the good work! and keep the pictures coming!

Ted

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Hi.
Build the first wing over the plans. Once you know how it goes together just flip the plans over and you can see the lines good enough to build the other wing. Worked for me anyway.
Would have been nice to see a build thread on this plane before i started but i could not find one.SOOooo this might help other people wanting to build one in the future.
I'm not such a fan of the box construction of this plane. Lot's of heavy wood but its built SOLID!! If i build another one there are several things i will change and getting rid of the box will be one of them!
I'm kinda lucky as i can build for 4-5 hours daily during the week. Kids at school wifes at work
Pat

ADELYAHYA

Hello..
Nice work , did you make sheeting for all parts of the wing? and when is the good time to install F1?
For the wing plan I used milted butter to show the lines of the wing from the backside of the plan for the lift wing.
Adel,

Hooked-On-RC

My Feedback: (16)

Realizing I am a little late on this post, however I could not resist this opportunity for future people considering building this plane. All of those fuse formers are just begging for some lightening holes. I think you could remove a fair amount of weight from this plane without sacrificing structural strength in most of those formers. Although I have never built a hostetler kit but want to build his Cessna 421 one day, I think any one building this kit in the future could lighten the load somewhat. Rule of thumb is you can add lightening holes to most ply or balsa formers as long as they are not integral of structural strength and as long as you do not put them too close to the edge, rule there is no closer than twice the thickness of the material you are drilling through...just an idea!

slevin1

My Feedback: (23)

Bank,
AMAZING JOB!! Your pics are a great help to me. I am building the Hostetler cessna 152.
Keep up the good work.
Saul

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

I'm Back
On F1 it looks like the plans show it added after the fuse is sheeted. So thats the way im doing it i guess. A better way is to put it on before the sheeting so it is cut and sanded to match the F1A,B,C. That way the sheeting is glued to it around the edge of F1. It would add ALLOT of support for the firewall. The only reason i did not do it the better way is i got carried away with building and by the time i realized i needed to put it on it was to late.

As for lightening the formers there is a little to be saved there to be sure but to me it's not enough to worry about. The real weight savings are in eliminating the 1/4inch fuse doubler(FB) that runs from F1 to F7 and top to bottom of FA(fuse side)
I replaced my FB with 1/8in light ply for a small weight savings. Next i will add a slew of lightening holes from F4ish(cog ares) area back . Any weight i can eliminate behind the COG will be a BIG weight savings when it comes time to balance the plane for flight[8D].
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Ok Here is what i have been up to.
The fuse is a PAIN IN THE ***** to sheet with 1/8in balsa,,But i have the front about done and even a little sanded.
The left shows it close to being sanded to a decent shape. The right side pic shows it before it's had much sanding

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

In looking at the back and holding some sheeting up to the fuse i see a small problem. Imaging that with these plans
In the first pic you can see how the stringers and formers are flat with FA as the plans show they should be form what it looks like to me anyway.
Now in the second pic you can see above the formers/stringers i sat a piece of wood where it looks like the sheeting SHOULD be???
In the 3rd pic you can clearly see it is not flat from the back up to the rear window.
I have went back and looked at the plans but i really cant see whats wrong other then the plans are way off. Am i missing something????????? Can anyone offer any help with this???
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Got about as far as im gonna get today. Here is a few shots showing the sheeting going on. Nothing really to note worthy.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Here is where im making ALL my 0deg readings from. When this shows 0 the fire wall mount is 90deg..So easy spot to check.
The wings are at +1deg at the root and +2deg at each tip on each side The stab will be set at 0deg tomorrow i think. The last pic shows what happens when you get into a hurry and start hacking away.
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Ok So i did not get the stab mounted yet,,BUT i did get this done!
Here is how i "fixed" the flat back
In the first pic you can see where i cut the formers loose from FA
In the second pic you can see where i used some 1/4in balsa to give me some filler and enough material to sand the area for a nice contour.
Third pic shows it all sheeted.

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

After sheeting and sanding i had to use some Spackle to get things really smooth looking and sense i had it out i fixed a few other small spot's. Thankfully nothing major just minor stuff. The rear window is going to need a little different shape around the sides and bottom but it will look decent when done.
Pat

BankYank

My Feedback: (63)

Ok something i did not take into account when i raised the turtle deck that 1/2in.
I did not raise the back former F10 i think it is. In not doing so that has made the angle off and i ended up with a 1/8in dip in the fuse at F10 where the sheeting wraps around the top.
I fixed it by scarfing on some more sheeting and sanding it close to shape then sloped some vinyl Spackle and wait to dry.
Finally the sheeting is done except for the sanding.