planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Here's the best one I learned through out my entire time spent in the hobby, here you go,.......</p>

<font size="5">"When in doubt, chuck it out!"</font></p>

<font size="2">It always applies, if you see something questionable, fix it or replace it.</font></p>

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

1. Take off and land into the wind. If the field conditions prevent that, consider going home and returning another day.
2. Keep the sun at your back. See above.
3. The way to get good at approaches and landings is by practising approaches and landings.
4. Keep the airplane close enough that you don't have to guess at what it's doing.
5. The ideal landing is one where the airplane touches down about 30' away, and still coming towards you so that the front of it is more visible than anything else.
6. If you want to be really good at landing, get a seaplane and practice landing on water a lot. This will also give you a better understanding of the effects of wind direction during TO/landing.
7. Don't fly model airplanes in strong winds. When the wind speed equals your airspeed at touchdown, you have no groundspeed. If the wind speed drops, so do you.

maukaonyx

Here is my tip, which lots of guys have not figured out yet.  It comes from years of flying powered planes AND gliders.  When you have a deadstick and are landing, management of speed and altitude is critical to make it back to the runway.  I see too many planes fall woefully short, often ending in a stall at low altitude, which is hard on the plane.  It happens because the pilot keeps feeding up elevator to try to keep the plane in the air.  That kills airspeed and actually shortens the glide path, and in the worst case causes a stall and crash.  To stretch the glide, you have to have the cajones to feed down elevator in at times to keep air speed, lengthen the glide path, and make it back to the runway.  Good luck!  Jon 

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

For those with multi-model computer radios, make sure to check that the model the Tx is set to is the model you are going to fly.  Also, do a control surface check EVERY flight, check your battery charge on the rx pack Every flight, and check your plane from tail to spinner and wingtip to wingtip for loose fasteners, missing servo arm screws, etc..  A few minutes spent at preflight (while you're not talking to buddies) will prevent a lot of "I don't got it" situations.  Also, if you typically fly one direction (lots of left or right turns only) practice the uncomfortable directions too.  Become a proficient pilot fying in either direction, with and without wind.  And to echo the others, learn to use the Rudder!
Sam
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WinterHawke

TRIMTHED*MNPLANE!!!!

Probably the biggest difference between experienced pilots and beginners is that the experienced pilots have spent the time getting their planes properly trimmed out.

If the plane won't fly hands off for a reasonably long time hands off, then the pilot's workload goes up enormously. You've GOTto get the plane flying as true as you can.

Make sure the control throws are correct as well - great flying planes have a balanced feel between all three flight controls - not too much, not too sluggish.

Some CG (Center of Gravity) tweaks may be in order once you've some flights on the plane (you already got the CG right on the bench, didn't you!!). One oft overlooked point is side to side balance - if you're one wing heavy, then you're probably carrying aileron to correct, which only works at one speed and one attitude, useless when you're say inverted.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Take the time to get the plane flying as good as you possibly can. You will be pleasantly surprised at how your flying improves when you're not constantly having to make minor corrections because the planes not quite trimmed.

Best regards,

Lee McDuffee
the WinterHawke

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Well told, Lee and Daddysam.

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Amen, Lee.

Backin the '80s a youngguy at work found out I flew RC and asked if I wanted to come out and fly with him. I said, "Sure." and met him at theold airbasewhere he broke out a medium sized Cub model. He fired it up, flew around a bit and asked if I wanted to try it. Thinking to myself, "It's a Cub. This will be ho-hum stuff". When he passed the tranny the Cub did a woopty doo and all of a sudden I had my hands full. Had to hold lots of correction on both sticks to keep it level. He looked surprised when I mentioned it. Guess maybe it was the tone of my voice and the look on my face that surprised him. Said he always flew it like that. Talked him into letting me trim it up and after adjusting the pushrods he flew itand commented how much nicer it was. The kid was self taught and actually didn't do too bad considering he could actually fly that thing the way it was.

Terry in LP

Teachu2

My Feedback: (133)

When all else fails, FLY THEAIRPLANE! I can't count the number of times I've seen a flyer have a problem in the air and give up on the plane because it "wouldn't fly right". Very common when a linkage, servoor surface fails and the trim can't adjust far enough. The flyer fights the airplane, desperately trying to trim it out, when all he needed to do was <u>hold</u> the sticks where thw plane would fly and land it that way.
I've successfully landed models with missing parts (an Ultimate Bipe with half a stab, a Mustang with the ailerons hanging by the torque rods 'cuz the hinges failed, a Q500 with nearly a quarter of the wing chewed off by a competitors prop (he went in), and several missing wheels/gear), and a newbies trainer with the engine hanging by the throttle cable. Think about what you'd do if you were flying a Big Stik 60 (dual aileron servos) and an aileron servo fell out - still attached to the aileron! You WON'T get the trim to compensate, but you can still fly the airplane!

mscic-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

here's a quick tip:  If you use nylon wing bolts, put them a pencil sharpner and sharpen them a bit.  It makes it easier to find the mounting holes.

mscic-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Here is something I teach my students:  OC=NK (overconfidence equals a new kit!)

tony0707

hi  refer to my post needle valve basics -101-  go back to the tread listings

tony0707

hi when putting fuel into your planes-do it behind any fuel filter you may be using to the carb-or you are defeating its purpose-i pull a fuel line off my tank aeter a flight -to remind me to put fuel in for the net flight-no fuel dead stik !!

tony0707

hi fuel tank  exit should be 3/8 above and below- the center line of your carb-to draw fuel in all aditudeskeep the fuel lines as short as possible-glo engines suck the fuel in -no pump unless you install one-i always put a piece of fuel tubing on my needle valve -and a second piece over all fuel line connections -so it works like a clamp to seal the connection- keep your fuel clean-i filter all mine through a coffee filter and use a filter in my fuel jug and to the carb-a small pieace of dirt can take you out of the air if it get into the fuel bar -in the carb-i keep a piece of thin wire to push into the fuel barof put you finger over the venturi with the engine running full bore- to clear the dirt out of the fuel barbut be carefull doing that one

tony0707

hi   keep the head bolts tight- check them from time to time-but never tighten them on a hot engine-  we are dealing with aluminum here -do not want to distort it in ant wayif you do over heay your engine in any waySTOP!!!!-let it cool off   !!! -i like to keep my piston at the top dead center when cooling-feel it lets the piton and cylinder seat together as they cool downthen start you tunning process over againyou will not get -a good tune on an overheated engine

tony0707

hi  i do a run up with tack reading before every days flying  ( check idle -adjusted for wind  speed changes-and the top end ) -that always the best way to tell if the engine or tank have developed and air leak  before taking to the sky-that can and will COOK  a glo enginefuel line leaks can be a common problemi also find that 10-20 degree changes in air temp will require a little tweek of the needle valve -to prevent a lean runvery good insurance the engine will be running good for a while

digital_trucker

Never EVER stop flying the plane until it's on the ground and has come to a complete stop.  If it's a crash landing, doing your best to maintain proper control can mean the difference between a model that's totaled and one that's repairable (or maybe even not damaged at all).

I know, it's seems like a horribly obvious thing to say, but it's amazing how many times I've seen a pilot NOT do that...and walked away with a mangled mess.  If you have problems of any sort, throttle back immediately.  Next thing is to do your utmost to maintain a level flight attitude.  You might be able to make it back to the runway or you might not, but the slower the impact is with the ground and the nearer to level the attitude of the plane is will greatly reduce damage.  It's far more important to maintain level flight than to try to get that last turn toward the runway or try to stretch the glide.

One more thing, holding up elevator will NOT hold your model in the air (especially if dead stick).  It'll just slow the plane to below stall speed and then your model will do a passable imitation of a brick.  If your engine dead sticks, keep that nose down to maintain airspeed.  If you have enough altitude to head back toward the runway, fine....if not, just keep it level until it's down.

One more tip to improve survivability; the most dangerous time for your engine to quit is immediately after takeoff.  Your plane probably isn't totally up to speed yet.  That's why it's important let the airplane take off when it's ready and do a shallow inital climb-out rather than hauling it off the runway on the power of the engine.  If you take off on the power of the engine and the engine quits, and crash is inevitable (because until the wing is moving fast enough to really generate lift it isn't flying, the thrust is holding it aloft).  If you do a nice smooth climb-out and the engine quits, you'll likely end up in the weeds but chances are good you won't have to repair much, if anything.  If you haul it off the ground on the power of the engine and it dies, that model is going to drop like a hailstone.

I'm a bit old-school, I learned to fly on 1/2A with no throttle control.  I had no CHOICE but to fly until I was back on the ground, and having to fly until the fuel runs out and the mandatory dead-stick landings taught me a LOT (not that I don't forget and do something stupid every so often anyway).

As an example; last weekend our club had a fun-fly.  I was flying my School Girl bipe (an early '60s design modified for 3-channel control and electric power).  I lost track of time and 'ran outta gas'.  Luckily, I use a seperate Rx battery for balance purposes so I had no worries about losing control.  I was a bit too far out to make back to the runway, so it landed in the dirst about 6' short.  Now, this model is a bit on the porky side (and it's a bipe) so it doesn't have much of a glide and it comes in HOT.  It was level when it came in, but the sudden stop popped the main gear block loose and cracked a bit of the surrounding sheeting.  A quick and easy fix, and it's just as good or better than new.  If I had tried to really hold it in the air with the elevator, it would have stalled fallen out of the sky, likely smashing it to pieces.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Coming in short on your approach? Add a little power and it will stop sinking.

Running low on fuel, but the runway is very busy or there is a downed plane on the runway? Climb to high altitude and circle the END of the runway where you intend to land. Take it up high and circle the end of the runway. If you run out of fuel, you are in a very good position to do a few slow circles and then line it up for a perfect dead stick landing that your buddies will talk about for weeks or even years. If you run out of fuel when you are downwind, you are more likely to crash. I just did this last Thursday with a students plane. There were 3 or 4 electric powered trainers that were landing because the batteries were dead and the speed control was cutting power. I was looking at 3 or 4 minutes until I could land, and I knew we only had about 1 or 2 minutes of fuel. I was going to land from the left, so I went up to about 300' and circled the left end of the runway. It died and we just called our dead stick which gave us priority over the runway. I did a few circles to cook off altitude and then did a mild slip to get it down quick once I knew I was going to make the landing. Greased it. Impressed the HELL out of the student. [8D]

Practice crosswind landings. It's ALWAYS windy in Colorado, and it's coming in crosswind more often than straight down the runway. If you can cross control your plane on a 45* crosswind, you might as well take up driving toy cars.

Crosswind at your back? Set the plane up on the side of the runway closest to you. It will drift out and away as you are on final approach. With good timing and power management you will grease it in the middle of the runway.

Crosswind in your face? Set the plane up on the FAR side of the runway and let it drift in towards you as you approach. With good timing and management you will grease it in the middle of the runway.

Take up slope soaring with a combat glider. Every landing is a dead stick. Energy management is CRUCIAL to flying AND landing. Flying slope gliders is 100% energy management 100% of the time. When you get good enough to fly 45 minutes on a single toss and then bring it in to land and catch it in your left hand while you work the TX with your right hand....... flying powered planes will seam like childs play.

Take care of your batteries. You can dead stick without an engine. You can land without ailerons. You can even land with only one wing panel if you're REALLY good at knife edge. But the only thing you can do with a dead battery is watch the crash.

Flying the old 72mhz radio systems? Wrap electrical tape around the crystal to keep it from falling out of the RX. Seen it a hundred times. Crystal falls out and the plane either flies away or hits the dirt. Neither is good for the wallet. 3 or 4 tight wraps of electrical tape will keep any crystal from falling out. Takes 10 seconds to do it and costs you a nickels worth of tape.

Keep your fuel jug closed when you aren't flying. Methanol is hydroscopic ....... it attracts moisture and will collect a LOT of water in just a few outings at the field if left in a poorly sealed container.

Build a kit......... at least once. 5 kits would be better.


Give something BACK to your hobby instead of being a TAKER your whole life. Be a GIVER sometimes. That means give a guy a plane when he just crashed his last flying plane on Saturday afternoon. You got one sitting in the shop that you don't fly anymore........ so GIVE it to him and don't take a penny for it..... even when he insists on paying for it. Teach a newbie to fly on the buddy box. Take a volunteer position on the club board of directors. Be the field marshal at least once. Be the safety officer at least once. Do some volunteer work for your club..... mow the grass...... whack the weeds.......... dump the trash cans into the dumpster......... clean up cigarette butts in the pits......... paint the benches in the pits........... welcome a total stranger to the club......... be a nice person to newcomers and curious parents with 10yr old kids.... [8D].......... give your flight instructor a gallon of fuel.......

Slow down and ENJOY the hobby. Just because you got your solo certificate last weekend doesn't mean you are ready for that 60 size P-51 Mustang. Take your time. Build a 4*40 while you are training on that first plane. Get your feet wet and don't rush through it. Once you "conquer" it all you will get bored. RELISH the hobby and enjoy all of it. Don't be that guy who slaps ARF after ARF together and piles up 15 models in a year. Spend some time talking to an old fart at the club/ Grab a lawn chair and pull up next to an old guy. Offer a Coke or an iced tea and PICK HIS BRAIN. If he doesn't want his brain picked........ then just LISTEN....... to whatever he wants to talk about. You'll be an old fart some day........ if you live long enough.

tony0707

hi  after flying for a whileyou will know by the seat of your pants when the plane feels right on finalif it is flying too fast just shut the throttle down earlier than you just did   -fly the final as flat and low as is comfortable-if decending to fast you are picking up air speednot as gooda cross wing will require that you shut down the throttle  a bit earlier than with a head wind -as you will not be encountering the resistance of the wind blowing directly at the front of your air craft-  if the cross wind  is blowing at you- you have to cut the corner of the final earlier to prevent the plane from being blown  past the center of the runway to you-   MOST OF ALL  -IF FOR ANY REASON ON FINAL YOU ARE NOT LINED UP RIGHTOR IT FEELS WRONG  GO   AROUND!!!- - NEVER FORCE THE PLANE DOWN-    as you have a tendency to do when first learing-    you will be giving yourself another chance to look your best- -  if at any time on final-     you have a need to keep the plane flying -just come up one  (or sometimes two )clicks on the throttle   -and shut it off a-most planes will start to rock a bit before the are going to stall-    if you identify that condition- bleep the throttle again-   hold some up elevator about one foot off the ground (called a flair ) to slow the plane and make it  parallel to tera firma  i   find it best to land the plane right in front of yourself as this is were you get the best possible look at what it is doingdo take much pride in that taxi back to your feet -you have had another great landing-BE PROUD OF THAT MOMENT-your are an acomplished RC PILOTall your peers will appreciate a good landing-   kissing and huging your plane after a good day of flying is acceptable practice-but thats just me

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Make a pre-flight check list just like a full scale plane and <u>USE IT</u> every time you fly. Will prevent many many crashes.

cmoulder

After installing new servos in a plane - whether a new model, or just replacing servos in an older plane - make sure to power up the servo the first time without the servo arms and/or linkages connected to the control surface.

If the servo shaft happens to be rotated to one extreme end of its travel or the other, some of the more powerful servos can actually rip off a control horn, or even a control surface. If the servo isn't strong enough to rip off the control horn, it will stall and may burn out the servo.

When programming a new airplane, don't take one of your no longer used model memories and try to tweak it for the new model. It is too easy to forget to go in and check all the mixes, one of which could spell disaster for your new model. Do a complete RESET and start out fresh.
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tony0707

hi was just installing a control rod and this came to mindi use only 2-56 metal rod in my 40-120 aircraft-they travel in the red sullivan plastic tubes-i use small pieces of nyrod about every 4 inches along the metal rod that rides in the red tube -eliminating any play inside the red tube-making for a very direct -no flex push rod-the red sleeve must be glued on both ends and in the middle of the fuse -to prevent any slop in the controls-these rod are  used on all my controls -for a very direct control and feel that it transmits to the pilot on the  TX-my stuff flys on rails after the bugs are worked out of a new plane -takes me 10-15 flights get the plane trimmed so it fly  level with no input -and you will enjoy the experience not putting in constant control can only afford- a great flying machine

tony0707

hi  i find that after the first few flights you will have the elevator trimmed for level flight-after that set up a jig-were the elevator is level -i use a level on it with the radio on its trim setting-now set you ailerons to zero on an incidence meter (to align them to the stab )-so the stab and the ailerons are at zero degrees to each other-  you now know they are flying on the same plane in the air (are parallel to each other )-i like to set my engine up so the prop is perpendicular to the stab- in the same jig -my plane is now lined up from stab to engine to pull foward at zero degrees-this allows no drop or climb when changing engine rpms-under power - use a wood prop on your engine to set its angle up -it is impossible to do with the nylon prop due to there shape-hope this helps your planes fly with a good feel and control -i personnely do not use any right or down thrust in my engines-just the way i learned and it works for me for 20 years of good flying planes that go right were i point them

tony0707

hi my field check list
     i fly on 72 MH
     get pin at  impound
    check the plane  you are flying on theTX
    set trims  (if it applys)
    set timer
    prop tight
   check rudder for straight
   check wing to stab-parrallel
run engine squeeze fuel line idle and top-record RPMS
  check wind direction-set idle for wind speed
  watch hands
   fuel filters clean
   paper towels
   antenna up
   run up on runway-check control direction throws
   trim into the wind
  be low and flat on final
  go around if final approach feels wrong 

   i have blown more flights due to a crooked rudder and the wing not being square to the stab-plane cannot fly square through the manuvers if it is not happy landings TONY

tony0707

hi i have an index card for every airplane -that has all the required info for a given plane and anything that is special to that plane and when the work  was done-  with 20 planes flying it is a must- you cannot remember this stuff- for i will not fly a given plane for some timewhen this is the case -the battery condition is always checked (cycled -i use only nicads ) and the plane is gone over- there is another check list for pre flight of a plane sitting for a whilei pressure test the fuel tank at this time-and refere to my notes on prior flights that are extremely helpful at that time- i keep battery condition and cycle dates-radio used-engine use -prop and RPM readings-any engine work done -the CG balance piontthe wheel size-sevos used-weightof plane-date builtcovering used -tank size- rx type and kind of servos miles per hour the plane flys on a given propyou got the idea by now i am sure-keeps you organized for the long term-

tony0707

HI after a day at the field-i find it amazingly helpful to think thru the flights you just experienced- - in doing that you will make note of some events that took place that you can improve on to improve the planes performance EX- did your ailerons roll the plane as fast as you would like-do you have enough elevatorto get around the corners quickdid the plane hit hard on landing and require a good look over before you fly again- monocoat hides a lot of stress crack-so twist and pull at possible damaged areais the engine running good or does it need an adjustment low or high do you need to adjust your flying surfaces- to the TX radio trims so the servos are centering -are you low on paper towels or plane cleanerthe list is endless-but if you make note and tend to these matters you will have a better day at the field the next timethink thru what is happening and then improve stuff were you canmaking notes helps me alot