Monokote vs Fabric?
12-28-2003, 09:56 AM
#26
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
Properly applied, Sig Koverall is not a heavy covering. The basic material weighs 1.35 oz per square yard, and with a normal aircraft dope finish will come in well below the 2.3 oz per square yard of ultracoat, and will be comparable to the 1.8 oz per square yard of monokote. The problem arises when the covering is coated with gobs of water based "house paint" or automotive enamel. Aircraft dope dries to a very thin, light weight film. I use two thinned coats of nitrate dope to seal the weave followed by two sprayed coats of butyrate color and produce a light weight extremely tough covering. I have five models, covered with Koverall as described, ranging in size from an O.S.10 powered Miss America to a Balsa USA phaeton II, and they all are light and lively.
The covering weight is not as significant as might be thought. For instance consider an eight pound airplane with 2.5 square yards of cover. If the covering weight is increased 1 oz per square yard, that increases the weight by a little less than 2%. The effect on performance is negligible. Other changes such as using a mini servo on the throttle instead of standard will reduce the weight almost that much.
The choice of covering is really fairly simple. If you work in an apartment or on the kitchen table where the smell of dope is not acceptable, use an iron on covering. If you work in a shop where fumes from dope are not a problem, use Koverall. It produces a light strong covering with an appearance second to none.
The covering weight is not as significant as might be thought. For instance consider an eight pound airplane with 2.5 square yards of cover. If the covering weight is increased 1 oz per square yard, that increases the weight by a little less than 2%. The effect on performance is negligible. Other changes such as using a mini servo on the throttle instead of standard will reduce the weight almost that much.
The choice of covering is really fairly simple. If you work in an apartment or on the kitchen table where the smell of dope is not acceptable, use an iron on covering. If you work in a shop where fumes from dope are not a problem, use Koverall. It produces a light strong covering with an appearance second to none.
12-28-2003, 10:36 AM
#27
RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
Just being curious.
Every 1:1 fabric finished aircraft I've ever worked on had over 8 coats of dope on it to completely hid the weave of the fabric. Championship aircraft have over 30 coats of hand rubbed and polished dope. They look like they're covered in Monocote. To do a paint job and have weave showing is either an unfinished job or the shop didn't put on enough dope. I have photos of WW-I A/C with high gloss finishes.
So tell me why do you want !QUOT!fabric!QUOT! to show on a model when it doesn't show on the full scale counterpart?
Every 1:1 fabric finished aircraft I've ever worked on had over 8 coats of dope on it to completely hid the weave of the fabric. Championship aircraft have over 30 coats of hand rubbed and polished dope. They look like they're covered in Monocote. To do a paint job and have weave showing is either an unfinished job or the shop didn't put on enough dope. I have photos of WW-I A/C with high gloss finishes.
So tell me why do you want !QUOT!fabric!QUOT! to show on a model when it doesn't show on the full scale counterpart?
12-28-2003, 12:12 PM
#28
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
The 30 hand rubbed coats you describe reinforces the fact that aircraft dope dries to a thin, lightweight film. Imagine thirty coats of water based "house paint", or automotive enamel. I have seen some of the aircraft you describe and they are indeed beautiful, however the sheen of the rubbed finish has a depth such that you can immediately see it's not plastic.
The full scale Piper Colt that I learned to fly in the early sixties had a factory cover, and although the weave wasn't prominent, it was obvious that it was fabric. Since then I have flown cubs, wacos, stearmans, citabrias, champs, taylorcrafts, L-21s, L-16s, etc. Some were finished a little smoother than others, but all had a look that was unmistakably fabric.
The main reason I prefer Koverall to the plastic films is not primarily appearance but the fact that it produces a light, extremely tough and puncture resistant covering that remains taut over years in all kind of weather and is easy to repair if it is damaged.
The full scale Piper Colt that I learned to fly in the early sixties had a factory cover, and although the weave wasn't prominent, it was obvious that it was fabric. Since then I have flown cubs, wacos, stearmans, citabrias, champs, taylorcrafts, L-21s, L-16s, etc. Some were finished a little smoother than others, but all had a look that was unmistakably fabric.
The main reason I prefer Koverall to the plastic films is not primarily appearance but the fact that it produces a light, extremely tough and puncture resistant covering that remains taut over years in all kind of weather and is easy to repair if it is damaged.
12-28-2003, 01:01 PM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
[quote]ORIGINAL: LouW
Properly applied, Sig Koverall is not a heavy covering. The basic material weighs 1.35 oz per square yard, and with a normal aircraft dope finish will come in well below the 2.3 oz per square yard of ultracoat, and will be comparable to the 1.8 oz per square yard of monokote. The problem arises when the covering is coated with gobs of water based "house paint" or automotive enamel. Aircraft dope dries to a very thin, light weight film. I use two thinned coats of nitrate dope to seal the weave followed by two sprayed coats of butyrate color and produce a light weight extremely tough covering.
[/quote Yup, I couldn't agree more, except for the weight of monokote. That 1.8 oz number is for semi transparent monokote. The opaque stuff is more like 2.4 oz by my scale, and thats easily obainable or beatable by any fabric finish except for prefinished super coverite, which is about 2.8 oz per sq yd. Ive seen this myth about monokote being lightweight repeated for so many years now that most people actually believe it. They usually believe that lite ply is actually light as well, and that a .60 size trainer is supposed to weigh 9 lbs.
Properly applied, Sig Koverall is not a heavy covering. The basic material weighs 1.35 oz per square yard, and with a normal aircraft dope finish will come in well below the 2.3 oz per square yard of ultracoat, and will be comparable to the 1.8 oz per square yard of monokote. The problem arises when the covering is coated with gobs of water based "house paint" or automotive enamel. Aircraft dope dries to a very thin, light weight film. I use two thinned coats of nitrate dope to seal the weave followed by two sprayed coats of butyrate color and produce a light weight extremely tough covering.
[/quote Yup, I couldn't agree more, except for the weight of monokote. That 1.8 oz number is for semi transparent monokote. The opaque stuff is more like 2.4 oz by my scale, and thats easily obainable or beatable by any fabric finish except for prefinished super coverite, which is about 2.8 oz per sq yd. Ive seen this myth about monokote being lightweight repeated for so many years now that most people actually believe it. They usually believe that lite ply is actually light as well, and that a .60 size trainer is supposed to weigh 9 lbs.
12-28-2003, 03:26 PM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
Xrod, 21st Century Fabric works extremely well when you use the fabric formula Balsarite. I used this product on my Cub with excellent results. I believe that it comes in many colors, and it is a fabric that has been painted.
I agree that film is not a good choice for your project.
I agree that film is not a good choice for your project.
12-29-2003, 08:15 PM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
Thanks to everyone for the many responses to my post. My computer has been down and I just got it back. After reveiwing the responses I decided to give Solartex a try. Only problem is that it is on backorder from both Balsa USA and Quantum. My progress is being held up! I am planing to use 1 coat of Minnwax Sanding Sealer on the balsa to give a less porous surface for the covering to bond to. I am going to try using white Rustoleum for the cowl and wheel pants and the covering as well if the color does not match the white Solartex, and the one coat of Carver Tripp water based clear gloss polyurethane to seal and fuel proof. I have used monokote and ultracote and like them well enough. I think everyone would agree that one can recognize the plastic coverings with one look at a model..it just has a certain look to it. If I can't get Solartex soon, I might try Coverite. Thanks again for the help.
12-30-2003, 11:21 AM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
Xrod..........what will you use to seal the Solartex? How will you avoid a yellowing effect from the sealant on your white areas?
These are concerns of mine, hence the questions. Thanx
These are concerns of mine, hence the questions. Thanx
12-30-2003, 12:20 PM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
GarySS,
I am going to try Carver Tripp water based polyurethane. The can says "Crystal Clear, Never Yellows". I will post back and let everyone know how this works out. I've never tried this before, but is based on knowlege that I've gathered from the posts here at RC Universe. Good luck with your project.
I am going to try Carver Tripp water based polyurethane. The can says "Crystal Clear, Never Yellows". I will post back and let everyone know how this works out. I've never tried this before, but is based on knowlege that I've gathered from the posts here at RC Universe. Good luck with your project.
01-19-2004, 07:06 AM
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RE: Monokote vs Fabric?
I plan to use a fabric to cover my 40 Telemater. I think that I will probably use Solartex in a Cub type yellow. I have never used this and don't know a thing about painting and I see where everyone suggest a clearcoat over the solartex. What is the best method for clearcoat sealing and how do I apply?
