New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
02-17-2011, 11:22 AM
#26
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: 378
Okay, let me just quote the RC10GT kit I spec'd out on RCZone...
If I'm getting myself a kit I'm not going to load it up with crappier stuff than the RTR has in the name of bringing the price down. If I'm going to buy a kit it's going to be built my way to my specs, otherwise it defeats the purpose of getting the kit in the first place. Would that RC10GT kit be worth it? I doubt so, for the money I could have gotten something four wheel drive. SC8. MGT 4.6. Hell maybe even an MGT 8.0. And it's not like the kit would be any more reliable, as we both know AE's engines and electronics are superb.
Oh, and you're still pressing the same point I countered earlier, which was that all RTRs ever do is instill laziness in their owners. I've been doing this for six years and never once have I sat there going "Hrm, it won't start. I know, I should take it to a hobby shop!". Nope. I figured it out and got it started on my own.
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Only if you're not smart about it..
Let's take the SC10 4x4 Team, when it finally hits shelves.
$269.97 for the kit.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$119.94, Castle Sidewinder SC.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$47.99, Basic 2-channel Futaba w/1 servo.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SX2**&P=ML
$437.90 out the door.
You could even add in a battery and charger and still be under $500.00..
That's not a whole lot more then the Slash 4x4 and you're getting a better vehicle with better components. And the experience of building it yourself.
I've known so many people that tried to get into RC and the first time they broke something, the ''Man this is stupid..'' mentality set in and it went in a closet. Because they didn't know how to troubleshoot, they didn't know how to repair. When you build the kit yourself, you know what goes where, and you know the mechanics of the vehicle.
Yeah, building a kit is more expensive. It's worth it.
Only if you're not smart about it..
Let's take the SC10 4x4 Team, when it finally hits shelves.
$269.97 for the kit.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$119.94, Castle Sidewinder SC.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$47.99, Basic 2-channel Futaba w/1 servo.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SX2**&P=ML
$437.90 out the door.
You could even add in a battery and charger and still be under $500.00..
That's not a whole lot more then the Slash 4x4 and you're getting a better vehicle with better components. And the experience of building it yourself.
I've known so many people that tried to get into RC and the first time they broke something, the ''Man this is stupid..'' mentality set in and it went in a closet. Because they didn't know how to troubleshoot, they didn't know how to repair. When you build the kit yourself, you know what goes where, and you know the mechanics of the vehicle.
Yeah, building a kit is more expensive. It's worth it.
Okay...Let's see how much I would spend on an RC10GT2...oh, hey, there's an RTR with a pull start engine for 299.99. I'd just get that and call it a day. But if I were dead set on the kit, here's what I'd buy:
The truck, obviously, at 270
Side-exhaust pull start manifold, 12 bucks
This clutch nut, for 5 bucks
This engine, for 150
These $6 motor mounts, since apparently the GT2 uses NTC3 motor mounts
This radio, for 100
Hrm...560. Still way more than I'd spend for a 2WD stadium truck.
The truck, obviously, at 270
Side-exhaust pull start manifold, 12 bucks
This clutch nut, for 5 bucks
This engine, for 150
These $6 motor mounts, since apparently the GT2 uses NTC3 motor mounts
This radio, for 100
Hrm...560. Still way more than I'd spend for a 2WD stadium truck.
If I'm getting myself a kit I'm not going to load it up with crappier stuff than the RTR has in the name of bringing the price down. If I'm going to buy a kit it's going to be built my way to my specs, otherwise it defeats the purpose of getting the kit in the first place. Would that RC10GT kit be worth it? I doubt so, for the money I could have gotten something four wheel drive. SC8. MGT 4.6. Hell maybe even an MGT 8.0. And it's not like the kit would be any more reliable, as we both know AE's engines and electronics are superb.
Oh, and you're still pressing the same point I countered earlier, which was that all RTRs ever do is instill laziness in their owners. I've been doing this for six years and never once have I sat there going "Hrm, it won't start. I know, I should take it to a hobby shop!". Nope. I figured it out and got it started on my own.
02-17-2011, 11:28 AM
#27
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Crappier stuff then the RTR? Since when is a Castle Sidewinder sub-par to a VXL? Since when is a Futaba radio sub-par to the cheesy TQ system the Traxxas vehicles come with? Hell I'd rather run a 27MHz Futaba over a TQ 2.4GHz, and I own a lot of TQ pistols..
As for AE's electronics and engines, they're even cheesier then Traxxas. I ditched both my RC10GT RTR's and my MGT's radios as soon as I opened the box. The engines are Thundertigers and out of all of them, only the MGT's .28 is worth anything. My RC10GT's conrod broke idling during break-in..
If I'm getting myself a kit I'm not going to load it up with crappier stuff than the RTR has in the name of bringing the price down. If I'm going to buy a kit it's going to be built my way to my specs, otherwise it defeats the purpose of getting the kit in the first place. Would that RC10GT kit be worth it? I doubt so, for the money I could have gotten something four wheel drive. SC8. MGT 4.6. Hell maybe even an MGT 8.0. And it's not like the kit would be any more reliable, as we both know AE's engines and electronics are superb.
As for AE's electronics and engines, they're even cheesier then Traxxas. I ditched both my RC10GT RTR's and my MGT's radios as soon as I opened the box. The engines are Thundertigers and out of all of them, only the MGT's .28 is worth anything. My RC10GT's conrod broke idling during break-in..
As for Futaba radios...well I did buy a 49.99 2DR stick radio once. My main mistake with that was opting for 75mhz instead of 27, because it only lasted a month before total range dropped to about twenty feet and I can't use any of my other recievers to confirm which part of the system is at fault. Probably the reciever but who knows.
Now there are some rare cases where a kit would be cheaper. My next monster truck will likely be a Savage kit because it comes with a suitable engine and its so much less than the RTR that even with a 100 dollar Futaba 4YF radio and suitable servos I'm still saving enough to grab the reverse module.
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
'98 Ford Contour GL. 102k highway miles. Dead.
'05 Trailblazer EXT. 60k highway miles. List of ''Service bulletins'' as long as my arm. Slow-start issue dealer can't resolve. Was in the shop 27 times in the first 3 years for warranty repairs.
Just my experience.
'98 Ford Contour GL. 102k highway miles. Dead.
'05 Trailblazer EXT. 60k highway miles. List of ''Service bulletins'' as long as my arm. Slow-start issue dealer can't resolve. Was in the shop 27 times in the first 3 years for warranty repairs.
Just my experience.
Your mistake there was buying new. The reason my '85 is so reliable is that it was made in '85. The only modern Ford I would go near right now is a Ranger, and that's only because I can still get a proper manual gearbox in it and it isn't a dime-a-dozen-see-one-seen-'em-all Mustang.
That being said I wouldn't go anywhere near a modern Toyota for much the same reasons.
I will agree with Dodge, though.
1994 Caravan: 200K, untraceable misfire, automatic goes stupid, and the driver's door is about to fall off. No joke.
1996 Caravan: 125K, untraceable misfire, automatic goes stupid, and the body computer is fried or something because if you put that fuse back in you get a light show.
1987 Dakota: 165K, misfire, gone through four manual transmissions in 200 miles.
02-17-2011, 11:28 AM
#28
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: 378
'85 Ford F150 4.9L. 275,000 miles. Never been rebuilt and I'd trust it to get me through Baghdad.
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
'85 Honda CRX, 200k miles, never had a major maintenance, still holding factory-spec compression in all 4 cylinders.
There are very few domestics I'd actually buy, and I wouldn't buy any of them for daily-driving reliability. Lol.
/thread hijack.
I'll take the Kia or Hyundai or even better yet Toyota or Honda and we'll compare notes at 200,000 miles.
There are very few domestics I'd actually buy, and I wouldn't buy any of them for daily-driving reliability. Lol.
/thread hijack.
'85 Ford F150 4.9L. 275,000 miles. Never been rebuilt and I'd trust it to get me through Baghdad.
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
2000 Toyota Tacoma, 217K. Never replaced anything other than belts, fluids, plugs, pads and tires. Just drove the truck 7000 miles round trip to CA and back pulling a car trailer. If ya wanna race this time a year you gotta go west. Runs and drives like new.
2000 Toyota Celica, 194K. Same thing. Nothing but maintenance items. Runs like a dream.
1989 Supra turbo. 347K Again Nothing but maintenance items and this thing has been driven like it was stolen every day of it's life.
If that's not impressive my Boss drives an 1988 Camary. 440,000 miles. Nothing ever gone wrong with it and he doesn't take very good care of it...
02-17-2011, 11:32 AM
#29
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: john01374
This thread is getting way off topic but since we're comparing.
2000 Toyota Tacoma, 217K. Never replaced anything other than belts, fluids, plugs, pads and tires. Just drove the truck 7000 miles round trip to CA and back pulling a car trailer. If ya wanna race this time a year you gotta go west. Runs and drives like new.
2000 Toyota Celica, 194K. Same thing. Nothing but maintenance items. Runs like a dream.
1989 Supra turbo. 347K Again Nothing but maintenance items and this thing has been driven like it was stolen every day of it's life.
If that's not impressive my Boss drives an 1988 Camary. 440,000 miles. Nothing ever gone wrong with it and he doesn't take very good care of it...
ORIGINAL: 378
'85 Ford F150 4.9L. 275,000 miles. Never been rebuilt and I'd trust it to get me through Baghdad.
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
'85 Honda CRX, 200k miles, never had a major maintenance, still holding factory-spec compression in all 4 cylinders.
There are very few domestics I'd actually buy, and I wouldn't buy any of them for daily-driving reliability. Lol.
/thread hijack.
I'll take the Kia or Hyundai or even better yet Toyota or Honda and we'll compare notes at 200,000 miles.
There are very few domestics I'd actually buy, and I wouldn't buy any of them for daily-driving reliability. Lol.
/thread hijack.
'85 Ford F150 4.9L. 275,000 miles. Never been rebuilt and I'd trust it to get me through Baghdad.
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
2000 Toyota Tacoma, 217K. Never replaced anything other than belts, fluids, plugs, pads and tires. Just drove the truck 7000 miles round trip to CA and back pulling a car trailer. If ya wanna race this time a year you gotta go west. Runs and drives like new.
2000 Toyota Celica, 194K. Same thing. Nothing but maintenance items. Runs like a dream.
1989 Supra turbo. 347K Again Nothing but maintenance items and this thing has been driven like it was stolen every day of it's life.
If that's not impressive my Boss drives an 1988 Camary. 440,000 miles. Nothing ever gone wrong with it and he doesn't take very good care of it...
Oh, and my condolences to your boss. I imagine an '88 Camry is about the most boring car a man could buy in America.
02-17-2011, 11:33 AM
#30
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Crappier stuff then the RTR? Since when is a Castle Sidewinder sub-par to a VXL? Since when is a Futaba radio sub-par to the cheesy TQ system the Traxxas vehicles come with? Hell I'd rather run a 27MHz Futaba over a TQ 2.4GHz, and I own a lot of TQ pistols..
As for AE's electronics and engines, they're even cheesier then Traxxas. I ditched both my RC10GT RTR's and my MGT's radios as soon as I opened the box. The engines are Thundertigers and out of all of them, only the MGT's .28 is worth anything. My RC10GT's conrod broke idling during break-in..
Yes, a kit is more expensive then an RTR. Nobody's going to dispute that. But the cost difference generally isn't gigantic, and you always end up with higher quality parts. You don't have to go nuts with it, but even basic equipment will often outperform the gear that comes with most RTRs. I own 3 VXL systems in 3 different vehicles, and my $119.00 Castle outperforms them easily..
Is the Slash 4x4 a bad truck? Absolutely not. It's a great truck. And if the buyer is mechanically inclined, then it will serve him/her well. However, building the kit is part of the experience. A big part of the experience..
Just out of curiousity, OP, have you considered something like an SCX10? They're actually really neat chassis', they can be moderately fast, and they'll go over anything..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAWKR&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAVSV&P=ML
'98 Ford Contour GL. 102k highway miles. Dead.
'05 Trailblazer EXT. 60k highway miles. List of "Service bulletins" as long as my arm totaling $4,000.. Slow-start issue dealer can't resolve. Was in the shop 27 times in the first 3 years for warranty repairs.
Just my experience.
If I'm getting myself a kit I'm not going to load it up with crappier stuff than the RTR has in the name of bringing the price down. If I'm going to buy a kit it's going to be built my way to my specs, otherwise it defeats the purpose of getting the kit in the first place. Would that RC10GT kit be worth it? I doubt so, for the money I could have gotten something four wheel drive. SC8. MGT 4.6. Hell maybe even an MGT 8.0. And it's not like the kit would be any more reliable, as we both know AE's engines and electronics are superb.
As for AE's electronics and engines, they're even cheesier then Traxxas. I ditched both my RC10GT RTR's and my MGT's radios as soon as I opened the box. The engines are Thundertigers and out of all of them, only the MGT's .28 is worth anything. My RC10GT's conrod broke idling during break-in..
Yes, a kit is more expensive then an RTR. Nobody's going to dispute that. But the cost difference generally isn't gigantic, and you always end up with higher quality parts. You don't have to go nuts with it, but even basic equipment will often outperform the gear that comes with most RTRs. I own 3 VXL systems in 3 different vehicles, and my $119.00 Castle outperforms them easily..
Is the Slash 4x4 a bad truck? Absolutely not. It's a great truck. And if the buyer is mechanically inclined, then it will serve him/her well. However, building the kit is part of the experience. A big part of the experience..
Just out of curiousity, OP, have you considered something like an SCX10? They're actually really neat chassis', they can be moderately fast, and they'll go over anything..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAWKR&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAVSV&P=ML
'85 Ford F150 4.9L. 275,000 miles. Never been rebuilt and I'd trust it to get me through Baghdad.
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
Now what was that you were saying about domestic reliability?
'05 Trailblazer EXT. 60k highway miles. List of "Service bulletins" as long as my arm totaling $4,000.. Slow-start issue dealer can't resolve. Was in the shop 27 times in the first 3 years for warranty repairs.
Just my experience.
02-17-2011, 11:35 AM
#31
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
if you wait a bit, AE will give us a RTR version of the SC10 4x4 for a similar price to the kit version
look at what they did with 2wd, or any of their other models... the SC10 kit, 170, the RTR, 200, the FT kit 230
look at what they did with 2wd, or any of their other models... the SC10 kit, 170, the RTR, 200, the FT kit 230
02-17-2011, 11:38 AM
#32
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
The really nice thing about the SCX10 is the massive aftermarket support that's popped up for it with the "scale" craze. Tons and tons of tires, wheels, bodies..
And there's nothing cooler then a truck with solid axles. [8D]
And there's nothing cooler then a truck with solid axles. [8D]
02-17-2011, 12:12 PM
#33
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: 378
Oh, and my condolences to your boss. I imagine an '88 Camry is about the most boring car a man could buy in America.
Oh, and my condolences to your boss. I imagine an '88 Camry is about the most boring car a man could buy in America.
Agreed. He's could buy anything he wants as he has the coin that's for sure but he's just not a car guy. Keeps telling me "it's just a tool to get a job done"
Keep telling him to buy a better looking tool.
02-17-2011, 12:55 PM
#34
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
I can't believe it hasn't been said yet (And I can't believe I forgot), but have you seen the HPI Mini-Trophy?
It's a little smaller then a Slash, but it's also 4wd. And I just think it's neat as hell.
In fact..
$232.98
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXACAT**&P=ML
$119.94
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAETT&P=ML
And still be a little a bit cheaper then the Slash 4x4. And still run Brushless.
It's a little smaller then a Slash, but it's also 4wd. And I just think it's neat as hell.
In fact..
$232.98
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXACAT**&P=ML
$119.94
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAETT&P=ML
And still be a little a bit cheaper then the Slash 4x4. And still run Brushless.
02-17-2011, 01:14 PM
#35
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: 378
Uhh....Is there any particular reason why you're dead set on a Traxxas as opposed to something from the likes of AE or HPI? Because TRX is the lowest common denominator of highly recognizable brands. You'll get a far more reliable product from the likes of HPI, AE, Losi, etc etc.
Aside from that, and this goes for any electric, make sure you charge your batteries right. Lipos are known to explode if you don't treat them right, and it's well advised to charge them in a fireproof container of some sort in case they get damaged in use or something.
Uhh....Is there any particular reason why you're dead set on a Traxxas as opposed to something from the likes of AE or HPI? Because TRX is the lowest common denominator of highly recognizable brands. You'll get a far more reliable product from the likes of HPI, AE, Losi, etc etc.
Aside from that, and this goes for any electric, make sure you charge your batteries right. Lipos are known to explode if you don't treat them right, and it's well advised to charge them in a fireproof container of some sort in case they get damaged in use or something.
Thanks for taking the words outa my mouth...being dead set on one brand isnt a true way to enjoy the hobby.
02-17-2011, 02:28 PM
#36
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: ElectricGuy007
Thanks for taking the words outa my mouth...being dead set on one brand isnt a true way to enjoy the hobby.
ORIGINAL: 378
Uhh....Is there any particular reason why you're dead set on a Traxxas as opposed to something from the likes of AE or HPI? Because TRX is the lowest common denominator of highly recognizable brands. You'll get a far more reliable product from the likes of HPI, AE, Losi, etc etc.
Aside from that, and this goes for any electric, make sure you charge your batteries right. Lipos are known to explode if you don't treat them right, and it's well advised to charge them in a fireproof container of some sort in case they get damaged in use or something.
Uhh....Is there any particular reason why you're dead set on a Traxxas as opposed to something from the likes of AE or HPI? Because TRX is the lowest common denominator of highly recognizable brands. You'll get a far more reliable product from the likes of HPI, AE, Losi, etc etc.
Aside from that, and this goes for any electric, make sure you charge your batteries right. Lipos are known to explode if you don't treat them right, and it's well advised to charge them in a fireproof container of some sort in case they get damaged in use or something.
Thanks for taking the words outa my mouth...being dead set on one brand isnt a true way to enjoy the hobby.
Ilove the look of the Traxxas Slash,and I have been looking at everything folks have been posting, but so far I still prefer the Traxxas. Keep in mind, I am not doing this to race anyone, and Ijust want to have fun driving this around with my son.
02-17-2011, 02:31 PM
#37
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
I can't believe it hasn't been said yet (And I can't believe I forgot), but have you seen the HPI Mini-Trophy?
It's a little smaller then a Slash, but it's also 4wd. And I just think it's neat as hell.
In fact..
$232.98
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...CAT**&P=ML
$119.94
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAETT&P=ML
And still be a little a bit cheaper then the Slash 4x4. And still run Brushless.
I can't believe it hasn't been said yet (And I can't believe I forgot), but have you seen the HPI Mini-Trophy?
It's a little smaller then a Slash, but it's also 4wd. And I just think it's neat as hell.
In fact..
$232.98
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...CAT**&P=ML
$119.94
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAETT&P=ML
And still be a little a bit cheaper then the Slash 4x4. And still run Brushless.
02-17-2011, 03:06 PM
#38
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
No not at all. There's absolutely nothing wrong with brushed motors. Brushless is the new "thing", tho. It would be perfectly fine on stock power.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6hvMXqZhkc&feature=fvst
Here's a video of a stock one. Gets up pretty good.
Here's a picture of the size comparison between the MTDT and a Blitz, which is the same size as a Slash.
And the Slash/Blitz/SC10 are big. Lol. So it's just a bit smaller then a Slash.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6hvMXqZhkc&feature=fvst
Here's a video of a stock one. Gets up pretty good.
Here's a picture of the size comparison between the MTDT and a Blitz, which is the same size as a Slash.
And the Slash/Blitz/SC10 are big. Lol. So it's just a bit smaller then a Slash.
02-18-2011, 09:17 AM
#39
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Quote from the op "Keep in mind, I am not doing this to race anyone, and I just want to have fun driving this around with my son."
If you want a 1/10 scale, go with the Stampede 4x4 or Slash 4x4 - either one would be perfect for what you want. If you're not dead set on a 1/10, check out the 1/16 summit or revo.
'Nuff said!!!
Alot of guys (usually racer fanboys) hate on traxxas but I've been into rc's since the mid 80's and have owned literally hundreds of rc cars and trucks. The traxxas trucks I've owned or driven have been some of the most durable with HPI coming in a close second. For a backyard basher to have fun with your son you can't go wrong with the stampede or slash. You wouldn't believe how many guys (that have been in the hobby for years and have moved onto bigger, better, faster and/or race specific rigs) still have an old stampede around for yard bashing, wheelies and smiles.
If you want a 1/10 scale, go with the Stampede 4x4 or Slash 4x4 - either one would be perfect for what you want. If you're not dead set on a 1/10, check out the 1/16 summit or revo.
'Nuff said!!!
Alot of guys (usually racer fanboys) hate on traxxas but I've been into rc's since the mid 80's and have owned literally hundreds of rc cars and trucks. The traxxas trucks I've owned or driven have been some of the most durable with HPI coming in a close second. For a backyard basher to have fun with your son you can't go wrong with the stampede or slash. You wouldn't believe how many guys (that have been in the hobby for years and have moved onto bigger, better, faster and/or race specific rigs) still have an old stampede around for yard bashing, wheelies and smiles.
02-18-2011, 09:35 AM
#40
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: gapjr
Quote from the op "Keep in mind, I am not doing this to race anyone, and I just want to have fun driving this around with my son."
If you want a 1/10 scale, go with the Stampede 4x4 or Slash 4x4 - either one would be perfect for what you want. If you're not dead set on a 1/10, check out the 1/16 summit or revo.
'Nuff said!!!
Alot of guys (usually racer fanboys) hate on traxxas but I've been into rc's since the mid 80's and have owned literally hundreds of rc cars and trucks. The traxxas trucks I've owned or driven have been some of the most durable with HPI coming in a close second. For a backyard basher to have fun with your son you can't go wrong with the stampede or slash. You wouldn't believe how many guys (that have been in the hobby for years and have moved onto bigger, better, faster and/or race specific rigs) still have an old stampede around for yard bashing, wheelies and smiles.
Quote from the op "Keep in mind, I am not doing this to race anyone, and I just want to have fun driving this around with my son."
If you want a 1/10 scale, go with the Stampede 4x4 or Slash 4x4 - either one would be perfect for what you want. If you're not dead set on a 1/10, check out the 1/16 summit or revo.
'Nuff said!!!
Alot of guys (usually racer fanboys) hate on traxxas but I've been into rc's since the mid 80's and have owned literally hundreds of rc cars and trucks. The traxxas trucks I've owned or driven have been some of the most durable with HPI coming in a close second. For a backyard basher to have fun with your son you can't go wrong with the stampede or slash. You wouldn't believe how many guys (that have been in the hobby for years and have moved onto bigger, better, faster and/or race specific rigs) still have an old stampede around for yard bashing, wheelies and smiles.
Better battery pack?
02-18-2011, 09:50 AM
#41
RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Better battery pack is always an upgrade.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
02-18-2011, 01:30 PM
#42
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Location: , TX
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Better battery pack is always an upgrade.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
Better battery pack is always an upgrade.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
02-18-2011, 01:40 PM
#43
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
And I am not trying to get ahead of myself and get faster upgrades before I even start, but I certainly want more than a single battery pack, so I can have fun for longer, but if I am going to buy more battery packs, I want to get something worth buying.
02-18-2011, 01:55 PM
#44
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: m\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'boro, TN
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Man if you think a Traxxas is better than any thing Associated yoou are out of your mind.
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Actually the OP said he was looking for something to use offroad and onroad, and had considered both a Slash and a Summit. That doesn't close the door to SC trucks only, as there are plenty of Tamiya 4wd buggies that will outperform most of the SC trucks out there..
Only if you're not smart about it..
Let's take the SC10 4x4 Team, when it finally hits shelves.
$269.97 for the kit.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$119.94, Castle Sidewinder SC.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$47.99, Basic 2-channel Futaba w/1 servo.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SX2**&P=ML
$437.90 out the door.
You could even add in a battery and charger and still be under $500.00..
That's not a whole lot more then the Slash 4x4 and you're getting a better vehicle with better components. And the experience of building it yourself.
I've known so many people that tried to get into RC and the first time they broke something, the "Man this is stupid.." mentality set in and it went in a closet. Because they didn't know how to troubleshoot, they didn't know how to repair. When you build the kit yourself, you know what goes where, and you know the mechanics of the vehicle.
Yeah, building a kit is more expensive. It's worth it.
Actually the OP said he was looking for something to use offroad and onroad, and had considered both a Slash and a Summit. That doesn't close the door to SC trucks only, as there are plenty of Tamiya 4wd buggies that will outperform most of the SC trucks out there..
Besides, if you want to go the kit route, you run into the problem of "Holy hell this gets expensive". An RTR RC10GT costs only 300 bucks at Tower(And probably less if I go elsewhere), and would serve me well right out of the box, but if I were to get the kit with my choice of parts I'd be looking at the same price as an RTR SC8.
Let's take the SC10 4x4 Team, when it finally hits shelves.
$269.97 for the kit.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$119.94, Castle Sidewinder SC.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&search=Go
$47.99, Basic 2-channel Futaba w/1 servo.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SX2**&P=ML
$437.90 out the door.
You could even add in a battery and charger and still be under $500.00..
That's not a whole lot more then the Slash 4x4 and you're getting a better vehicle with better components. And the experience of building it yourself.
I've known so many people that tried to get into RC and the first time they broke something, the "Man this is stupid.." mentality set in and it went in a closet. Because they didn't know how to troubleshoot, they didn't know how to repair. When you build the kit yourself, you know what goes where, and you know the mechanics of the vehicle.
Yeah, building a kit is more expensive. It's worth it.
02-18-2011, 02:05 PM
#45
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: m\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'boro, TN
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Dude you go buy you a Kia or a Hundia and watch them loose 80% of their value in less than 3yrs!!!!!!! You need to do your research, their isa reason somthing is cheaper
you get whatyou pay for....
The quote for you people that don't understand it was you need to compaire apples to apples, no way in this world or any other is a Traxxas on the same level as ASsociated, Losi, Hpi, or Ofna......
you get whatyou pay for....
The quote for you people that don't understand it was you need to compaire apples to apples, no way in this world or any other is a Traxxas on the same level as ASsociated, Losi, Hpi, or Ofna......
ORIGINAL: john01374
That is about the funnest statement I have seen in years. You buy the Chevy, ford or Dodge. I'll take the Kia or Hyundai or even better yet Toyota or Honda and we'll compare notes at 200,000 miles.
ORIGINAL: schuttman
It's like buying a real car, you can buy a Kia or Hunda real cheep not always the best option, or you can go buy a Chevy Ford or Dodge you can't go wrong!!!!!!!
It's like buying a real car, you can buy a Kia or Hunda real cheep not always the best option, or you can go buy a Chevy Ford or Dodge you can't go wrong!!!!!!!
02-18-2011, 02:17 PM
#46
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
you should do a bit of research shuttman, the koreans are making better cars than the americans, even though ford has stepped things up recently
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out
02-18-2011, 02:18 PM
#47
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: m\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'boro, TN
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Dude you talk out of both sides of your mouth, look at all of the problems you are talking about here, and you say Traxxas is better than Asscoiated LMAO.......
Never had ONE problem out of any Associated trucks and I have owned everyone that has been issued.
You don't have to do all of the upgrades to the Associated like you are saying you do to the Traxxas LMAO........
Never had ONE problem out of any Associated trucks and I have owned everyone that has been issued.
You don't have to do all of the upgrades to the Associated like you are saying you do to the Traxxas LMAO........
ORIGINAL: ramp4ge
Better battery pack is always an upgrade.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
Better battery pack is always an upgrade.
The shock caps on the Traxxas plastic shocks are famous for popping off, spilling all your oil. The aluminum shock caps are a great, inexpensive upgrade.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XYCU0&P=ML
Or red
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXYCU1&P=7
RPM A-Arms are another great option since your A-Arms will take the brunt of anything you hit, and they still have "give" unlike aluminum parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XZHG9&P=ML
You'll need 2 sets. One for front, one for rear.
Rear hub carriers, another high-stress, often-broken part.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXZZD5&P=7
Really, upgrade a part when you break it. No sense in replacing perfectly good parts. Stay away from aluminum parts where you can. Especially in high-stress areas. Remember, aluminum doesn't break, but it does bend. It also has a nasty tendency to transfer the impact force to the next weakest link, which is usually harder and more expensive to replace..Gearboxes/bulkheads..Ouch...
The Slash 4x4 is also famous for dirt getting into the spot on the chassis where the driveshaft meets the rear bulkhead and causing issues. Watch out for that and keep that area clean.
Lipo batteries are something you might want to look into in the future, but they certainly aren't a necessity.
If you ever feel like personalizing your truck, a new body goes a long way, and there are some very nice ones out right now. My personal favorite is this one.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XAPEN&P=ML
Most of all, enjoy your truck! Welcome to the most addicting hobby on the planet.
02-18-2011, 02:21 PM
#48
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: m\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'boro, TN
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
I would buy a Honda or Toyota YES but a Kia or Hundai H*ll no do some research some Kia models loose 80% of their value before 3yrs.
you can keep a eather one....
you can keep a eather one....
ORIGINAL: sloppyG
you should do a bit of research shuttman, the koreans are making better cars than the americans, even though ford has stepped things up recently
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out
you should do a bit of research shuttman, the koreans are making better cars than the americans, even though ford has stepped things up recently
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out
02-18-2011, 02:23 PM
#49
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Owensboro, KY
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: schuttman
Dude you go buy you a Kia or a Hundia and watch them loose 80% of their value in less than 3yrs!!!!!!! You need to do your research, there is a reason something is cheaper
you get what you pay for....
The quote for you people that don't understand it was you need to compaire apples to apples, no way in this world or any other is a Traxxas on the same level as ASsociated, Losi, Hpi, or Ofna......
Dude you go buy you a Kia or a Hundia and watch them loose 80% of their value in less than 3yrs!!!!!!! You need to do your research, there is a reason something is cheaper
you get what you pay for....
The quote for you people that don't understand it was you need to compaire apples to apples, no way in this world or any other is a Traxxas on the same level as ASsociated, Losi, Hpi, or Ofna......
Thanks for clearing that up so I wouldnt have to say it myself.
And most people on this site still dont understand what you said...
If you buy something in RC the higher the price the better its gonna be.
A Baja B SCT costs $1300+, is it worth it? You be the judge, you darn right it's gonna be good...[>:]
Although most people wish they could have one, most people cannot afford it.
Stuff is priced high for a reason, the more money you pay the better it gonna be and more reliable it's gonna be.
I myself know I couldnt afford one, much less have the room to put something that gigantic in my house.
I was just using that as an example.
02-18-2011, 02:24 PM
#50
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: m\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'boro, TN
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
A Kia or Hundai will never be better or worth morethan my Chevy Silverado 3500, not in this life or any other...
ORIGINAL: sloppyG
you should do a bit of research shuttman, the koreans are making better cars than the americans, even though ford has stepped things up recently
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out
you should do a bit of research shuttman, the koreans are making better cars than the americans, even though ford has stepped things up recently
a hyundai or a kia, while not status symbols are good cars, not exciting, but better quality than detroit puts out