bigplumbs

I always use a wing/taxi tank for starting etc so that will help as well. I will probably have to make a smaller one though as mine is a bit big lol. If I can find some slightly longer tanks similar dia I will get those to help a bit as well. There is space for a little more forward

Dennis

marc s

Dennis, PM me the diameter and overall length you have to play with - might have a solution if your not in a huge hurry.

marcs.

bigplumbs

PM Sent

Dennis

bigplumbs

Just a smallish job tonight. The canopy is designed to be held on with a single pin at the front and a pair of very strong magnets at the back... I was a bit concerned at this blowing off in flight so I hunted around in my various little drawers and found a little sprung latch. This makes me fee a lot better. If you fit one remember to use vasoline around the moving parts so that the glue does not glue it all up solid. Cos was £0.90 and well worth the added security. If you lost the canopy on this plane I guess it would be difficult to buy a new one

Dennis

bigplumbs

Thought I would have an easy night tonight so just did the canopy.

The scale cockpit and pilot from Hobby King is as I said a snip at $15. To fit it in you will need to cut the cross brace on the underside of the canopy so that you can prise it apart and pop it in. You will also need to pain the inside front of the cockpit black to make it blend in. The cocpit aas supplied does not go all the way back so I just painted some thin balsa sheet black and glued this in place as can be seen in the pics below.

All in all I am very pleased with this canopy and cockpit. Nice and bit and allows for good access and looks nice

Dennis

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Thats looking darn good Dennis.
Fit as much fuel as you can. I have learnt with the P-20 models that more is more.. Nothing worse than having to land at 6 mins. At this sort of duration, you may as well be flying dust buster power.
Regards Al

bigplumbs

Servos turned up today from Ali (HS65 HB's) oh along with this little Bind and fly Habu at £149 a bargain as it was the BNF version..... Excellent service arrived in the designated 1 hour slot

Well done Ali


Dennis

bigplumbs

I agree I am going to my Local Hobby Shop to sift through his stock of dusty old tanks to see what he has

Dennis

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks again Dennis. I had a feeling you might pick up on that Habu offer. Even at the new price ( Gone up £10) that Habu deal is worth having jut for the components.
Good luck with that Tank hunt.

v8mini

i must have been extra lucky as when i ordered mine it was £139, cheaper than a new airframe and battery to fix my previous one (bit more practice before a 32)

lrb75

My Feedback: (12)

Do you think that the plane will be under 4.5lbs? That is the mfg limit on weight for the little 10-15 sized retracts

bigplumbs

No the plane will not be that light. It will be the same or slightly lighter than the Habu 32 so I am sure they will be ok. On Eflites website they say the weight should be between 4 - 7 lbs and it will certainly be in that range.... See below

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFLG230

Regards

Dennis

bigplumbs

As I said above the 8 No HS 65 HB Servos arrived yesterday. I will run these at 6 volts so I will have 2.2 kg of torque whic as each control surface has its own servo will be plenty. I am a firm believer that we tend to over servo many of our jets.

These will fit nicely in the precut holes and onto the servo covers. I cant see any mounting blocks in the kit so I will have to cut my own. You are however supplied with ply covered servo covers with a pre cut slot for the servo arm. The horns in the kit also look ok but I would love to lay my hands on some Habu 32 fiberglass ones and they are available as a Habu spare but with other bits at £32 + [&o]

I wish servo manufacturers would supply a bit more sevo wire on their servos

Dennis

lrb75

My Feedback: (12)

You linked to the 15-25 sized retracts not the 10-15 sized. The 15-25 sized are good the 7lbs as you say. Which ones do you have. Not sure the difference between them. Might just be strut diameter.

bigplumbs

Its the 15 - 25 size you need

Dennis

bigplumbs

Well I sourced some larger wheels from Giant Cod and I have to say they look better but perhaps the wells need to be made a tad larger or the foam wheels sanded down a little. Migs had quite large wheels and while obviously not scale I think they look a little better. They are 55 mm dia superlight sponge tyre at £1.03 each


Dennis

beammeup

Great thread! Have one of these, been sitting in a box at home for a few months.....watching with great interest to see how this goes...

bigplumbs

I am goning to have a go at the wings first and thought I would start with the flaps.

The model is supplied with split flaps and mylar hinges which I have used on many planes and found them to be very good. In order to try and get decent alighnment of the control surfaces I will uses 5 min epozy to glue the hinges in place. I firstly glue the hinges in the loose flat which has been removed from the plane.

Dennis

bigplumbs

The control hornes supplied with the kit are not the pretiest I have ever seen but they are quite strong so I have decided to use them. The horn for the flap will need to be recessed into the back of the flap as these are split flaps. I cut a rather too big hole as my scapel slipped but this will not be seen only when the flaps are down. I filled paet of the recess with epoxy once the horn was secure. For the flap I used a thinner retaining part as I had a few in stock. The ones supplied with the kit while good are rather thick and would mean cutting a deeper hole

Dennis

bigplumbs

Thanks for looking at the thread. You need to get yours out of the box and start building her

bigplumbs

Well I have installed the flap and flap servo and it is OK. The pocket for both the flap and the Aileron Servo cut into the wing is very close to the control surface so it is not possible to use conventional clevises as the distance from horn to horn is too small. The kit comes supplied with Pre Bent wire and easy connectors. I have used these easy connectors in the past and have never had any problem with them but I always feel I want to mistrust them for no real reason. Provided you use loctite on the easy connector they are usually ok. Here is the flap installed showing the amount of deflection available. You can also see the short distance there is to work with.

The screws holding the servo cover on have to be drilled very close to the edge also. I think on the next one I will add some corner support to the servo recess to help in this regard.

I have glued very small blocks to the inside of the servo cover to fix the servo but I have also glued the servo to the cover for added security because the blocks are so small

Dennis

BaldEagel

Dennis

Can you turn the servo over to get the arm further away and make up some new covers? that may allow a clevis connector at the servo end.

Mike

bigplumbs

Still dont think you would get the length. I will have a look and see if this is possible. I am not going to go to great efforts to acheive this because I actually believe that the easy conectors will be OK. I have used then with no problems on many other planes.

I am sure however that the 'lets over engineer it because it is a Jet Brigade' will pipe in or be thinking that they are crap and should not be used

Dennis

BaldEagel

Dennis

To a certain extent I agree with you, the only problems I have had with them is they tend to come loose on the servo arm after a bit of use, as long as a locking fluid is used on the screw into the tower part where the push rod passes through they should be fine in the low vibration environment of a jet IMO, but the use of Z bends that is a different matter.

Mike

bigplumbs

When I extend servo wires particularly on a small jet. I like to hard solder in lengths of wire. I like to do this because you can get the length you want and also the connectors on standard extension leads are quite big and offton get in the way.

The procedure I use is

1) Test the servo first
2) Cut the wire in the middle
3) Pull the 3 wires apart
4) Bare the end of the similar colour wires (put a small piece of heat shrink over first)
5) Twist the wire ends together
6) Dip this twisted end in acid free flux
7) get a nice small blob of solder on your iron
8) Dip the fluxed end in the blob for a short while
9) Heat shrink the small wires and then over all three
10) Test the servo again

Dennis