acerc

Thank's Mike!!

Leroy Gardner

Thanks rapture boy, we are getting some good info now, valley aviation would not respond, would like to know what they have to offer, I'll try later. Dry time, when it feels dry it isn't cured yet, in warm weather you can speed it up by keeping a stream of air flowing over it, if you have a moisture meter it will measure the resistance in it and when it reads four percent you are good to go with top clear. You do not have to wait much more than a day to tape and add another color of latex. Best way to know for sure do a tape pull on your test sheet (hope you have one) if it lifts the paint wait longer until you can not pull the paint.

Leroy Gardner

Pkoury I know what your talking about, I watched a guy up the street painting his house, I told him there was wind and rain coming but he went on painting, on the way back from Home Depot I checked out the house, it was raining cats and dogs and sure enough it washed one end of the house pretty much off, the guy was out there gathering up his stuff and when I stopped he wouldn't even look at me. I drove home laughing.
Anyway, It is great stuff for a good number of things. It does oxidize but will wipe off with Krud Cutter and look like new again.

bdoxey

My Feedback: (6)

Has anyone tried to match Monokote colors, as in painting a fiberglass cowl to match a Monokote covered airframe? Wondering how it matches texture/sheen-wise. Would probably plan on a Klass Kote gloss clear topcoat after full cure.

I'm rebuilding an Extreme Flight Yak (gas powered) and the cowl would be a good test piece for future projects.

Bryan

sensei

I'm sure you can get a color match but to achieve the sheen and texture of glossy MonoKote you will need to get your prep work in order first, a good clear coat build up on top of the Latex, and cut and buff...

Bob

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

That was my point,, with that product no need to wait,,,

Why would someone use somthing Enamal or Lacqure based that is risky to peeling even after you've had to wait when the water borne Poly-U is available these days.

IMHO,, You always want to use compatible paints

raptureboy

I was posting from my kindle last night and it was hard for me to attach the link for Vailly Aviation, so here is the direct link then scroll down to the articles section for Latex house paint part 1 and 2 http://vaillyaviation.com/Intro.html Ace, normal humidity for us guys in the N'east would be about 30% like today I put mine plane out in the full sun when I can and it helps alot. You could use heat lamps I suppose indoors. I have no problem using an airbrush with this stuff and it is so easy to clean up between colors. With gas engines I don't worry too much about clear coating but I fly mostly warbirds so the oil stains only add to the look.

FSFLYER

My Feedback: (12)

Some time ago we sold a used piece of medical electronics equipment. After the system was installed the customer complained about the appearance so we attempted a low budget/effort paint job with the system installed in the facility. Spoke to Sherwin Williams and they recomended a their industrial latex paint. It's been awhile and I don't remember the name of the product. Since it was in a facility we couldn't spray it on, so we used a foam roller. Results were fantastic and it still looks great 8 years later. I think this product may be similar to that mentioned in another post in this thread. I also recall that it was expensive. Going to go back to Sherwin Williams to find the name of the product.


My concern with the Polyurethane clear coat would be yellowing from UV rays. Has anyone tried it?

jester_s1

There was a fellow I knew a while back that painted houses for a living. Normally you are supposed to apply the paint full strength out of the bucket if you are brushing or rolling, but he found that he could get a little more mileage out of a bucket of paint by thinning it about 30% with water. So a little shot of water in the bucket improved his profit margins substantially. I asked him did it not hurt the durability of the paint job by putting it on so thin, and he said it looked good enough for long enough for the homeowner's check to clear and that was all he cared about. Over the years I saw several houses that he painted have to be redone because the thin paint just didn't hold up. That didn't stop him though, because he really wasn't a very honest man. Then one day he had just finished a job with that thin paint and was knocking at the door to tell the homeowner he was done when a big thunderstorm blew in out of nowhere. It washed all of the paint off the house, turning the yard the most lovely shade of blue. The man then looked up into the sky and saw the clouds open and heard a voice from Heaven saying, "Repaint Repaint! And thin no more." I think he works for a drywall company now.

AMA 74894

My Feedback: (1)

Ba dum dum...
We're here all week, folks, tip the waitresses and try the Veal...

LesUyeda

"Has anyone tried to match Monokote colors, as in painting a fiberglass cowl to match a Monokote covered airframe?"

Virtually impossible to get a really good match. Problem being Monokote color is in the adhesive layer, behind a clear plastic cover. Paint, of any type sits on the surface.

Les

Leroy Gardner

Like so many threads these days it's hard to get most to read the thread, hence asking the same question over and over again when the answer is likely in the thread at some point. When I started the thread it was to inform users and future users what the product actually is, it's not latex as the name suggests, it's made from synthetic polymers that mimic latex, ingredients are acrylic resin and vinyl and vary in percentages offering many grades, the best being 100 percent acrylic latex, it has the highest adhesion and wear properties. While other reducers can and are used, water is the primary reducer, as a result cure times are longer than most other paints. Product is non toxic and can be applied with brush, roller, airless , suction guns and HVLP equipment. Colors are easily matched to samples of our coverings and we are still looking for definitive answers on some fuel proof clear coats.

Most other answers are in the thread so please read it, for those who have used it continue to post your experience with it . I think it's a great paint for RC when planes are properly prepped for it's use.

Leroy

sensei

That is not true, it takes the effort, but it can be done.These are all Monokoted airplanes with paint to match. You are correct in the fact that there is clear plastic over the color glue coat in MonoKote, but keep in mind that there is a sprayed clear plastic coat on top of the base color, so you virtually have the same thing.

Bob

3dd

My Feedback: (6)

yes many times,,put you a 2x2 piece of covering on a plate that matchs the color of your primer,,go to home depot and use beyr brand ext enamel,i like flat colors as they dry faster,,when done
i use minwax polycrylic,,not polyurathan ,,clear it and go flying

bdoxey

My Feedback: (6)

Looks beautiful Sensei.

I'm pretty familiar with the prep work you mentioned previously and have painted 10 or 12 airplanes over the years, mostly with epoxy-type and automotive products. Also had good luck with Warbird Colors on my latest project.

So, after prep work (sand, sand.....) and primer over the fiberglass (suggestions on primer type?) I think I understand the spraying on of the latex from the information above. What did you use for clear, and what are the specifics of your "cut and buff..."?

If it's too much work, I might just use the old ways for this cowling. My next project is a 1/3 Jungmeister that right now I want to use Sig Koverall and nitrate to prep and I'm still considering the topcoat. I think latex might be great for this. I just wanted to try a smaller project first prior to "experimenting" on such a large scale.

Thanks to all for the good information so far.

Bryan

sensei

I use DuPont 7704S Croma Surfacer and DuPont G27779S euro clear on everything I do. The activators I use are either DuPont 7775S or 7785S depending on temperature. The activator for the primer is also the activator for the clear coat. I hope this helps.

Bob

HOT COALS

Can latex paint be used on polyester covering ? I have been using stilsts covering for long time. But their cost of paint has gone up . Any info ?

LesUyeda

"That is not true, it takes the effort, but it can be done."

"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" Just like color match, tint, texture etc,.etc,.etc.

I have had some colors "matched" by the opticals of computers designed for that, and was amazed at the colors that went to making up the original color, and I used to paint motorcycles, cars, and my kids and my airplanes.

Les

Leroy Gardner

That's the beauty of latex you can put it on most anything and like all paint surface prep is important. If fabric is taunt and weave sealed and lightly scuffed it's ready to go.

sensei

Hey Leroy,

Lowe's sells Valspar latex paint, they also sell valspar PVA white primer for about $15.00 a gallon I think is what I pay for it, anyway, you can roll it on, brush it on, or spray it on. once fully dry it acts like and powder sands allot like automotive high build primer if you know what I mean. I even use my DA sander with 180 grit and 320 grit. So...

Bob

ron12901

I have covered several planes with stits lite fabic. I use Minwax polyacrylic to adhere the fabric and then to fill the weave- 4 or 5 coats. Then latex Rustoleum paint sprayed on with an hvlp gun.

Leroy Gardner

Bob I used to work at Lowe's, used lots of their PVA on sheetrock, that's not the same PVA used for mold release is it, never tried sanding it. Latex, you can scuff the sheen but it don't sand, well yes 60 or 80 grit but it won't be pretty. Put it on right and you don't even have to scuff to over coat. Like I said before, if you screw up the paint job with latex plan on recovering it if it's covered, if not I don't know what you do, cry maybe.

sensei

I stand corrected, the PVA primer that I am talking about is Olympic Fast Hide PVA primer, I finally got home from work and looked at my can, anyway it does build the surface fast, sands very good with 180 and 320 grit silicon carbide open coat sandpaper by hand or with a DA sander and comes from Lowe's.

Bob

DwightMann

Our local Ace Hardware store is able to put it in a spray can, pressurized and ready to work like any other spray paint.
Like someone mentioned earlier, it takes a little time to reach full hardness.