Band Saw Blade Recommendation and Setup
#26
Senior Member
The biggest advantage is speed. I find it much easier to cut to a pattern than a scroll saw is as the blade is always pushing the work piece onto the table while a scroll saw first pushes it against the table then pulls it away on the upstroke. Also the rocking for and aft of the scroll saw blade as it goes up and down makes following a trace more difficult. I have both the bandsaw and the scroll saw (some 20 years or more with each) and rarely use the scroll saw as the bandsaw will do most everything a scroll saw will do only faster and easier. The rare instances that the scroll saw is used could easily be done with a hand powered coping saw. Of course, since I have both I sometimes use the scroll saw. I have found that a 1/4 in metal saw blade in the bandsaw will do a very good job on most all materials. Do get a two wheel band saw with as big a throat as you can afford. A three wheeler is much more difficult to keep aligned and is much harder on blades.
#27
That's interesting because I use my scroll saw a lot. I've gotten pretty good knowing its variances. I've only tried a band saw quite a few years ago and don't know it's advantages/disadvantages. I'll have to do some research.
#28
Since I got back into RC I've been scratch building all my airplanes. I find that I use the bandsaw 95% to scroll saw 5%. The bandsaw provides good speed and accuracy. I have 3 bandsaws, 1/8, 1/4 and 3/4" blades. The 1/8" bandsaw is my go to saw. I have one scroll saw which I use mainly for inside cuts.
I don't do do as much wood working as I used to. But the tools I have sure come in handy for building model airplanes.
I don't do do as much wood working as I used to. But the tools I have sure come in handy for building model airplanes.
#29
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I don't think I called you sloppy builders, just builders that may not have the right tools to do modeling jobs and that's OK. I just wonder what people would have thought when they opened up a new kit a found that the inside lightning holes in their plywood or balsa had cut marks through the material in order to cut the inside lightening hole? I don't think I would like it. It would not look very professional. Do you every build servo trays out of light ply with inside cut outs? Band saws just will not do that inside cut without making some kind of access cut. Band saws will not out rip a table saw. The good thing about band saws is the blade has a smaller kerf which means you will actually waste less wood per cut compared to most table saws. Like I stated earlier, I had a very nice band saw that I never used, I had better equipment (scroll saw and table saw) to do the modeling jobs. Sold the band saw and saved a big portion of work space. Now if I was a metal worker or a cabinet maker, then yes by all means I would have a band saw. But I'm not, and this is a modeling building forum (which really should be entitled a model assembly forum with all the foamy's and ARF's) so I talk about scroll saws.
Ken, look at post #3. That is the only reason I ever posted about using scroll saws, the OP brought the subject up. Oh, one last thing. Is it possible your scroll saw cut slow because, maybe, I've seen this fairly often, the blade was installed up side down or it was dull and possible needed replacing? Scroll saw blades are cheap and come in different varieties, some rip better and others do intricate cuts better.
Anyway, cut and do the job with the tools you have, that is important, but for myself I will always try to achieve the best possible solution to get the best professional results and that sometimes means having the right tools to do the job. Once again, no hard feelings and we will just agree to disagree.
Ken, look at post #3. That is the only reason I ever posted about using scroll saws, the OP brought the subject up. Oh, one last thing. Is it possible your scroll saw cut slow because, maybe, I've seen this fairly often, the blade was installed up side down or it was dull and possible needed replacing? Scroll saw blades are cheap and come in different varieties, some rip better and others do intricate cuts better.
Anyway, cut and do the job with the tools you have, that is important, but for myself I will always try to achieve the best possible solution to get the best professional results and that sometimes means having the right tools to do the job. Once again, no hard feelings and we will just agree to disagree.
Last edited by 2 Piece; 04-06-2017 at 07:54 AM. Reason: spelling
#30
Senior Member
It depends a lot on what size models you are building. If small (up to about 6 pounds final weight) you really only need a razor saw, a coping saw, lots of sandpaper and blocks and a sharp knife. If you are into 1/4 scale and lots of materials other than balsa, then the power saws become quite useful.
#31
My Feedback: (8)
The OP's post was about the best blade for bandsaw use . Without debating over which is a better method of cutting , table saw ,scroll saw, etc , I will simply anwer his question.The smoothest cuts I have been able to make with a bandsaw have been from using a "Resaw " type blade . Low vibration means smoother cuts .
The resaw blade is designed to make smooth cuts.
www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
The resaw blade is designed to make smooth cuts.
www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
#33
I just went back and re-read the whole forum. This is actually a pretty forum with good information. I'd never be without a scroll saw and disk/belt sander. I've always wanted a bandsaw but just haven't gotten there yet. Have to thank all that have contributed.
#34
My Feedback: (8)
Flame you? Not my intention at all. Not sure if I have used a Resaw brand blade, but they look like a very nice blade. I just wasn't sure if you had seen post 3 where the OP brought up the scroll saw. I would never hijack the thread nor flame anyone if the OP had not brought up the use of a scroll saw.
#35
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Both band and scroll saws have their place in modelling. The problem with band saws is usually related to setup in addition to others mentioned you may wish to visit https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3Y...FvblhoVDQ/view for a PDF Itturra Designs catalog which is like the bible of band saws. Besides basic setup, setting the blade tension correctly normally cures blade wandering tracking is a stamped teeth issue. The one weak spot is the tensioner spring, normally the OEM spring isn't up to the task to maintain blade tension. Of course we all know to release the blade tension when the saw isn't in use yet other distractions may cause us to forget. You'll notice most 10" table saws maximum rip thickness is 3.5" whereas many band saws will rip 6" with a 0.025" to 0.035" kerf even hobby table saws are 0.080". Considering the price of "good quality wood" I want to minimize sawdust. As for finishing thickness a single pass through a power planer and you’re ready to go. How about stack sawing 40 giant wing ribs a once? Even lightening holes simply epoxy fill shut the entry slot. Can’t find 3/16” foam just resaw 1” in 6” wide slabs.
Go to just about any sawmill/pallet maker and all you'll see is big band saws, circular saws just waste too much wood.
I'm not putting down scroll saws since I have several including a cast iron variable speed belt drive Rockwell/Delta 40-440 24" w/1.5" stroke, Hegner Polymax 3 w/7/8" stroke which is the top of the line German industrial scroll saw, DeWalt rocking "C" arm, and two DeWalt 40-570's along with several Sears & Sawbucks cast iron models including my first 4" vibrator 1950's model. Not to mention 4 band saws with different blades sizes set and ready to use, 2 power planers 13 & 23 ft/min feeds and radial arm and table saw both rather dusty all located in my 2400 sq ft workshop with full bath and double utility sink so I don't mess up my sweetie's home on 60+ acres.
When you’re retired every day is Saturday except for Sundays.
Live long and prosper
[h=1][/h]
Go to just about any sawmill/pallet maker and all you'll see is big band saws, circular saws just waste too much wood.
I'm not putting down scroll saws since I have several including a cast iron variable speed belt drive Rockwell/Delta 40-440 24" w/1.5" stroke, Hegner Polymax 3 w/7/8" stroke which is the top of the line German industrial scroll saw, DeWalt rocking "C" arm, and two DeWalt 40-570's along with several Sears & Sawbucks cast iron models including my first 4" vibrator 1950's model. Not to mention 4 band saws with different blades sizes set and ready to use, 2 power planers 13 & 23 ft/min feeds and radial arm and table saw both rather dusty all located in my 2400 sq ft workshop with full bath and double utility sink so I don't mess up my sweetie's home on 60+ acres.
When you’re retired every day is Saturday except for Sundays.
Live long and prosper
[h=1][/h]
#37
I'm with you Geek. Every day is a Saturday when retired. I was just *****in at the wife that a holiday is coming up, and then the stores are all closed, worse than Sundays. Oh, I use my little bandsaw more than the scroll saws too. I have two scroll saw, and gave one to my son, because I never used it. He doesn't either. It does have its uses though. Really I use my metal bandsaw more than my wood one, and my chop saw a lot for building sheds an bigger stuff. The table saw mostly sits too, just stripping the odd thing.
#39
We all have our favorite tools. I guess if you are comfortable with what you are using and it gets the job done for you then by all means use that tool. The band saw VS scroll saw debate is almost as heated as the castor oil VS synthetic oil threads. LOL
As mentioned earlier, lot of good info here!
Ken
As mentioned earlier, lot of good info here!
Ken
#41
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Since I started this thread, my bandsaw has become my go-to power tool. I use it for just about any cut I make that I can't do (or would be more difficult to do anyway) with a hand saw. I have a very old scroll saw that I only use if I'm doing inside cuts. There are a number of reasons but I think mostly it's that it has a fence and a miter guide. That, and once I got the hang of adjusting it properly and settled on a good blade for thin, hobby-scale, work, it cuts like a tablesaw and only needs a 10" x 20" spot on my table. Now, if someone made a scroll saw with a fence and miter I might just have to buy me one.
#42
Since I started this thread, my bandsaw has become my go-to power tool. I use it for just about any cut I make that I can't do (or would be more difficult to do anyway) with a hand saw. I have a very old scroll saw that I only use if I'm doing inside cuts. There are a number of reasons but I think mostly it's that it has a fence and a miter guide. That, and once I got the hang of adjusting it properly and settled on a good blade for thin, hobby-scale, work, it cuts like a tablesaw and only needs a 10" x 20" spot on my table. Now, if someone made a scroll saw with a fence and miter I might just have to buy me one.
Ha Ha... You found religion!! LOL
Ken
#47
as for ditching the bandsaw,......there are large professional cabinet and furniture shops that don't even have a table saw because they do all their cutting and ripping on a band saw. it is said that "once you have a band saw you don't need any other saw".
#49
Your best saws have more than one speed, can use blades of various widths and has a throat that's large enough to cut parts large enough to build your models.
My first saw was a 7.5" B&D, not a real good choice as it couldn't handle anything over around 4-5" nor did it have an actual miter guage or fence. I moved up to a Craftsman 14" and have never looked back. Stay away from the three wheel saws as they are harder to get to track properly and, according to other's posts, they tend to be harder on the blades than a two wheel types. Just got to thinking, get something with roller guides as they are a good upgrade over guide blocks and are easier on the blade as well. Having vacuum ports is a bonus since it will decrease the sawdust flying around in the air during use
My first saw was a 7.5" B&D, not a real good choice as it couldn't handle anything over around 4-5" nor did it have an actual miter guage or fence. I moved up to a Craftsman 14" and have never looked back. Stay away from the three wheel saws as they are harder to get to track properly and, according to other's posts, they tend to be harder on the blades than a two wheel types. Just got to thinking, get something with roller guides as they are a good upgrade over guide blocks and are easier on the blade as well. Having vacuum ports is a bonus since it will decrease the sawdust flying around in the air during use
#50
I have had a harbor freight 14 inch saw for at least 25 years now. used it in my career as a wood worker, making cabinets and furniture cutting all species of hard and soft woods of thicknesses to 6 inches and anything else you can cut with a band saw and it has performed perfectly,.... all the time. don't let anyone tell you HF tools are all junk. their band saw is as good as any high dollar brand name saw there is on the market, today. all band saws of any brand of this size, 14 inch, are made in China, and most of them are identical from brand to brand, with different name plates. so save some money and by a real band saw. for cutting balsa I wouldn't get any blade other than a 1/4 in 16 tooth ( actually a metal cutting blade). even that shows a lot of tearing in such a soft wood.