CARF Joker build thread
#27
My Feedback: (30)
Now officially building and flying model airplanes is part of my medical recovery plan after a brain injury accident. People don't realize how much this hobby can keep the noggin cells moving.
I am currently building a FEJ 1:5.5th scale F-16 EDF and going to use the VASA 145mm.
Perhaps the Joker can be on the list too
Keep fingers crossed
#28
Thread Starter
I'd love to have done one this week, we have a jet meeting this weekend, but other projects, work and family would not allow anyway
Dave
#30
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Dave,
I have one of these on the way but since there's no manual yet (at least on CARF's website) I wondered if you knew anything about how the retracts are powered. I'm assuming separate battery but what are the voltage specs? Can the brakes use the same voltage or do I need some sort of regulator to supply two separate voltages for brakes and gear?
Thanks,
Dave Churchill
I have one of these on the way but since there's no manual yet (at least on CARF's website) I wondered if you knew anything about how the retracts are powered. I'm assuming separate battery but what are the voltage specs? Can the brakes use the same voltage or do I need some sort of regulator to supply two separate voltages for brakes and gear?
Thanks,
Dave Churchill
#31
Thread Starter
Dave
The manufacturer says 6V max for both. CARF used a Powerbox Sensor switch to power the radio and the retracts are fed off that as the current is really low.
The 4 pins of the black unit go to the brakes. Polarity doesn’t matter.
The red gear controller has the 3 gear outputs marked. It doesn’t matter which is which, but I think the center one is meant to be nose gear.
Both controllers can be installed so that the connectors from the wing can be plugged directly into the units without an additional connector in between.
Dave
The manufacturer says 6V max for both. CARF used a Powerbox Sensor switch to power the radio and the retracts are fed off that as the current is really low.
The 4 pins of the black unit go to the brakes. Polarity doesn’t matter.
The red gear controller has the 3 gear outputs marked. It doesn’t matter which is which, but I think the center one is meant to be nose gear.
Both controllers can be installed so that the connectors from the wing can be plugged directly into the units without an additional connector in between.
Dave
#32
My Feedback: (1)
Dave
The manufacturer says 6V max for both. CARF used a Powerbox Sensor switch to power the radio and the retracts are fed off that as the current is really low.
The 4 pins of the black unit go to the brakes. Polarity doesn’t matter.
The red gear controller has the 3 gear outputs marked. It doesn’t matter which is which, but I think the center one is meant to be nose gear.
Both controllers can be installed so that the connectors from the wing can be plugged directly into the units without an additional connector in between.
Dave
The manufacturer says 6V max for both. CARF used a Powerbox Sensor switch to power the radio and the retracts are fed off that as the current is really low.
The 4 pins of the black unit go to the brakes. Polarity doesn’t matter.
The red gear controller has the 3 gear outputs marked. It doesn’t matter which is which, but I think the center one is meant to be nose gear.
Both controllers can be installed so that the connectors from the wing can be plugged directly into the units without an additional connector in between.
Dave
Dave
#35
Thread Starter
Just put a Y lead on one of the Sensor switch outputs and supplied Rx and retracts. The PB switch is completely split so no cross issue
Dave
Dave
#36
My Feedback: (1)
That begs another question: Both servo's mentioned on CARF's site (Savox 1260 and the Graupner 660) for this jet are HV servos, with fairly high torque ratings at 7.4volts (130-160 oz-in). So I was planning on running 2S LiPo (7.4v), unregulated for Rx/Servos and then a BEC/regulator for the gear/brakes. Is that much torque required for this plane? If not, I'll go with the Sensor switch and some Savox 1250's @ 6.0v (63 oz-in of torque).
#38
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Hi Dave,
I understand you are working on the Joker manual. My Joker came in 2 days ago, is it possible if you can email what you have to [email protected]. ?
Regards,
David Quy
I understand you are working on the Joker manual. My Joker came in 2 days ago, is it possible if you can email what you have to [email protected]. ?
Regards,
David Quy
#39
Thread Starter
David
No, not one of my jobs. I’ll find out where we are on having a manual ready.
If you have any questions I may be able to answer them. Our first one won’t be ready for another week, the owner has passed it on to someone else to finish as he didn’t have time.
only thing that springs to mind is the tailpipe install needs to be understood. You can’t install the bell mouth and then install the pipe. I didn’t see it, but it seems the carbon needs screwing in position with the pipe in the fuselage.
CARFs web page pictures give other clues like the undercarriage packers
Dave
No, not one of my jobs. I’ll find out where we are on having a manual ready.
If you have any questions I may be able to answer them. Our first one won’t be ready for another week, the owner has passed it on to someone else to finish as he didn’t have time.
only thing that springs to mind is the tailpipe install needs to be understood. You can’t install the bell mouth and then install the pipe. I didn’t see it, but it seems the carbon needs screwing in position with the pipe in the fuselage.
CARFs web page pictures give other clues like the undercarriage packers
Dave
#42
Thread Starter
Would be around that, but this is not a speed machine. Its been made without ducts to increase drag and reduce speed. Its an Xcalibur follow on.
Dave
Dave
#43
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cape Town South Africa
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Greetings Dave
Ok I see, Im looking at replacing my Jetlegend Viper and thought this might be the jet. Want a faster more precise machine. I guess would have to go for the Ultra Flash then hey.
Regards
Ok I see, Im looking at replacing my Jetlegend Viper and thought this might be the jet. Want a faster more precise machine. I guess would have to go for the Ultra Flash then hey.
Regards
#49
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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Hi Dave,
I am running Savox HV servos and Spektrum 7.4 v packs for my radio. Since the break/retract unit is rated from 7.4v to 8.4 v can I just "y" the battery to power the break unit?
"The elevator servos are held down with the servo hatch. Here, too, a little drop of silicone can act as easy to install spacer between servo and hatch. otherwise use a scrap balsa block to fill the space between servo and hatch". Does that mean I don't need to use the CF tabs to hold the servo down but to use the silicon instead. I wonder why... flutter may be?
"It has shown best for the thrust line to direct the thrust tube so that the top side of the thrust tube contacts the fuselage...." Does he mean to touch the fuse former because you just can't raise the tube up to touch the top of the fuselage with the former in place. I wish some one would post some built pictures!!!
Thanks Dave
David Quy
I am running Savox HV servos and Spektrum 7.4 v packs for my radio. Since the break/retract unit is rated from 7.4v to 8.4 v can I just "y" the battery to power the break unit?
"The elevator servos are held down with the servo hatch. Here, too, a little drop of silicone can act as easy to install spacer between servo and hatch. otherwise use a scrap balsa block to fill the space between servo and hatch". Does that mean I don't need to use the CF tabs to hold the servo down but to use the silicon instead. I wonder why... flutter may be?
"It has shown best for the thrust line to direct the thrust tube so that the top side of the thrust tube contacts the fuselage...." Does he mean to touch the fuse former because you just can't raise the tube up to touch the top of the fuselage with the former in place. I wish some one would post some built pictures!!!
Thanks Dave
David Quy