airega1

My Feedback: (204)

Hey Dork, I see what you mean through your pic. You are on the right track in wanting to use a ball link, and you can find them in your local hobby shop in the r/c car dept. The 1/8 scale steering links are about as heavy as you would ever need. The ball links are super heavy especially for the 1/8 offroads. By the way your hard points are connected into wood, the top and bottom sheeting, I really don't see a problem here. I would go with what you have and check the integrity of the control horn after the first few heavy aerobatics that you perform, and then on every occasional flight.

If you have any problem finding these heavy ball links let me know, the hobbyshop I work in has them and we can ship them to you inside of a week. The linkage between the ball links will probably be around a 10/32 titanium turn buckle type.

dork_blaster

My Feedback: (14)

Hi there Giant Scale and Flyboy!

GS: Did you notice that I went with the ZDZ 80? Thanks for that input.

Onto the subject at hand...

Thanks for the offer about the ball joints, Flyboy - I will try my local R/C shop and see what they have. If not, you'll be hearing from me!

The kit maker did an okay job with the hardpoint, it looks like it is glued to the big chunk of balsa that forms the leading edge of the elevator. Since Flyboy and I are rating this kit (1=doodoo, 10=only Jesus could build it better), I'd give the hardpoint install an 8 for finish, 3 for location. If there's a "warm fuzzy" category, I give the hardpoint at the elevators a 5 overall.

When I added my new hardpoint (it was late, and my drill needed a hole) I took your advice made sure the hole hit a good portion of that leading edge. About a 1/3 of the hole is solid balsa, and I epoxied a 1/2" dowel into it. I am thinking of adding some ply caps that are inset into the solid balsa at the leading edge and glued over the top of the dowel... but the new hardpoint seams to be hold up quite well after repeated hard tugs and pulls.

Oh, well. What's left to do for me:

Ailerons control linkages (2 servos per)
Radio install and final CG check.
Then it's covering time!!! Joy of joys!

Later guys, thanks for all the good advice and comments!


The Blaster of Dorks

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Hey guys I've been following this thread since the get go because I have an interest in the big Giles. I can't beleive what I just calculated can be correct but here goes. The GSP specs on this plane states that it has 1454 SQ. inchs of wing area and weighs between 22 to 25 lbs. Thats a wing loading of 36 to 39 oz. per sq. ft. That seems really high to me and has me concerned. It have a feeling that the wing has more area than stated. Could you check my figures and see if they are correct? Thanks, Mike

Giant Scale

That wing loading sounds correct for the Giles. Even with a ready to fly weight in the 27-28lb range the Giles performs very well with an 80 or 100cc engine. I too fretted over the final weight of my Lanier Giles (27lbs dry) but all was forgotten when I pulled to vertical, hit the throttle and watched the plane keep going straight up. Even was able to do a snap roll on the way up and it just kept on going. I have a ZDZ 80 in mine and the performance is awesome.

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Thanks GS the thing with the wing loading has always conused me. There was a post on one of the forums that stated that a good Imac plane needed a wing loading under 30 OZ, per square foot and I've been trying to stay at that. But then I see planes that people are loving and flying successfully at the higher loads and I'm trying to decifer the info. Thanks Mike

Giant Scale

Mike
Here is a thread I started on effects on wingloading
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...003&forumid=31

This may shed some light on it..

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Wow what a great debate in that thread you started. Still alot of opinions to listen too. Thanks again,Mike

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

Hey dork,
did you have to space the zdz out any or did it fit the length of the cowl?
Andrew

dork_blaster

My Feedback: (14)

Hey drewskie32 (aka Andrew),

Nope - didn't have to space it out at all. It was near perfect. RCS says it runs smooth enough that soft mounts aren't needed. I've run it on a test stand, I would agree. But if I feel it shakes the plane too much, I'll add some soft mounts (and that would mean adding some wood to the firewall to run the cowl out a little for the soft mounts).

Current status:

Done covering, need to cut and fit the canopy, paint the cowl and "off we go, into the wild blue yonder!"

With the ignition batt (1800mAh, 4-cell NiCad) on the side of the motor box, one 1800mAh 5-cell mounted between the firewall and the first former, and the 2nd 1800mAh 5-cell mounted on the bottom of the fuse, just behind the turtle deck former, the CG is slightly forward of the recommended location (1/2" aft of the wing tube).

dork_blaster

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

Hey DB<
i have a zdz 80 on a giant stinger and it does a fair amount of shaking, I installed the anti vibration mounts but i cant tell much difference. Is there room to put a cannister muffler in the fuse on the giles if I mount the engine on it's side?
Andrew

Giant Scale

Before you soft mount the engine, make sure your prop is balanced. Also if the engine is too rich it will shake like it is having a seizure. These engines are very smooth when set properly.

airega1

My Feedback: (204)

A single cylinder anything is going to shake a fair amount, soft mounting will help indeed, and you may not physically see a difference, but there is. ZDZ's are pretty smooth for a single, in no way are they smoother than a twin, as some are boasting.

Giant Scale

If you read your instruction manual, ZDZ does not recommend soft mounting this engine. If your engine is vibrating alot then something is amiss. I have one and can tell you they don't shake they run very smooth.

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

With any gas engine, a well balanced propeller is mandatory.
Also, do some fine adjustment on the idle "L" screw. If its not adjusted properlly, it will vibrate.

dork_blaster

My Feedback: (14)

Hi, guys! Just about there. Had a great weekend, watched the Blue Angels at MCAS Miramar with my son. Gave up a flying/building day to be with the boy but it was worth it!

Drewskie32: I can't see an easy way to get a cannister in the fuse without some major rework, even if it were on its side. I'm not giving up, though - I've read enough good things about how well these work if done properly (for reducing sound without compromising power). For now, I'm going to keep the revs down and watch out for the sound police!

The engine's been run in the plane, and it wasn't too bad, shake-wise. Going to skip on the soft mounts for now.

Going to add a servo operated kill switch, something I added to my other gasser and a feature I would really like on this plane (mostly for safety reasons).

I know the Red, White and Blue has been done to death, but so what! I like to show my patriotism, I guess. No apologies here, here's the latest pix. Going to add some text in the white space, not quite done yet.

Andrew_S

My Feedback: (12)

hey guys,
what's new,, has it flown yet? we are all anxious to know/
Andrew

dork_blaster

My Feedback: (14)

The Giles is ready to go. Just need time to fly!

Last tidbits: I put about 45% expo on the throttle (my other gasser I had to use 40%). The ZDZ would max out before I got to mid position on the stick. All control surfaces are set for "all she's got" on high (3D) rates, and at 60% on low. Remember that I chamfered the elevator and rudder for an additional 10 to 15% more throw, I left the ailerons alone.

Last weekend it actually RAINED in San Diego, and I've been too busy at work to play hooky

This weekend the club has a fly-in for helicopters, not sure if I'll even get the chance.

So it'll either be next weekend or I'll get "sick" sooner!

You guys take it easy, and may all your planes come home in one piece!

DB

cgor

I flew one of those 2 years ago. I was impressed when it arrived and it flew great for for 3 flights. Stupid me forget to put thread lock on the digital servos screws ( DON'T FORGET ) You can imagine what happens when servo arm on one aileron get several teeth off. wasn't impressed with company, they could never get me a clear canopy. I used hitec 5945 with a 3w75. the ZDZ80 would be a much better choice. Plane pancaked on its belly
but not real hard. Every glue joint in the fuse popped. So I did a inspection of wing interior. Not much glue. Wing tube if pushed to max on one side would not protrude through last support on other side. Also servo pockets in wings almost fell out NO GLUE. I hope you have much better luck. I replaced it with a 35% Troybuilt 260. I do have custom wing bags for that plane from bag lady in Ohio. they been hanging on the wall ever since. Make me an offer.

cgor

Forgot to mention plane came out very heavy, 27 pounds for a 96 inch wing compared to 22.5 pounds for 102.5 inch troybuilt 260

Giant Scale

DB,
Sounds to me like your throttle servo is not adjusted properly. I set the ATV on mine to give full throttle movement with full stick movement. If you are using a programmable servo you may want to reset the endpoints. I've never heard of anyone usiong expo on throttle..but I guess there is always a first time.

rcavi8ter

My Feedback: (19)

Giant Scale I think he has his throttle set on a curve which is normal for bigger gas motors as the powerband is a little different. A half open carb does not mean that it is half of the RPM. I set all my motors on my planes with a curve. This allows half throttle to be closer to half RPM throttle. I found that about the last 1/4 of the butterfly movement does not adjust the RPM much.


Chris Puckett
Puckett Model Aviation

Giant Scale

Chris,
That's interesting the throttle on my ZDZ is set for fully closed and turns until it is fully opened. The servo moves the butterfly through this entire motion. So when DB moves his throttle stick to fully open is the butterfly fully open? or only half open? I guess mine is proportional to the amount that the stick travels. So in your install full stick movement results in your butterfly moving a percentage of full travel. When my stick is a few clicks from the bottom, the engine is idleing about 1500 rpm at full stick the engine is *****g out at about 6300 rpm(using a bambula 26x10 prop). The rpms increase with stick travel but I'm not sure if it is linear. This is a very interesting question that I really never thought about. I have always set my throttle up to use full stick movement. Please explain the type of throttle curve you are using.

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

If I may jump in, When the throttle butterfly is linear with the throttle stick, then the power is not linear.
I put in some curves also to get as linear a power curve as the stick. It does take some twiddling though. With the Multiplex MC 4000 I can have up to 13 point curves so it gives me a lot to play with

Giant Scale

I have a futaba 7uaps and a 9vap..do you know what
throttle curve these radios use?

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

I'm affraid I don't know anything about these radios.
Most radios have point curves on helicopter radios but not on the airplane radios though.
Maybe someone else might know about your question.