cbk07

My Feedback: (64)

When you mount the cowl, the back of that box is open also. Between that and cutting out the bottom of the box, you should be fine. Craig

moldmaker

My Feedback: (5)

CBK O7thanks a lot will open up bottom also? Did you have any problems with wing tube sockets being to tight ? My tube would go about one third the way in and lock up
had to really sand sockets to let tube slidall the way into wings .

bladebender

My Feedback: (5)

please tell how many servos you are useing on rudder and what kind, what kind of cans on motor

moldmaker

My Feedback: (5)

Three Hitec giant scale digital servoes no cans

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

I am going with two Hitec5995TG on rudder, run through a Power Expander straight off two two-cell Li-Ion batteries. That should be about 830 ozin of torque on the rudder, and although it's a huge rudder, the plane is going to be light, so that should be enough. I have a set of MTW cans that I can use, but I am probably going to buy a set of JMB cans (the largest they sell if they'll fit) after I confirm room and size. You need to use very shallow drop headers in this fuse.
DKjens

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Here's the little work I did tonight. I received my uni-hubs for my Hitec5995TG servos. The uni-hubs have a flange on the bottom, but the hole in the aluminum arms that come with the Yak are not large enough. I enlarged the holes in the arms so they would just fit over the flange on the bottom of the uni-hubs. I put power to the servos, made sure they wwere turning the right way for throws, and that subtrim was neutral. I slipped the arms over the spline, then the uni-hubs. I knew I would drill new holes in the arms, so I put the uni-hubs on the splines with their holes at 45 degrees off the holes in the arms. That way there was no chance of the bit catching and wandering. I pushed the arms up against the bottom of the hubs, made sure they were at right angle to servo (I used a small fixture I've made for servos), put a drop of thin CA where they met and kicked it. I took the assembly of the servo and drilled the holes through in my drill press, attached them securely to each other (arm and hub) with the screws provided in the kit using locktite. That was it for tonight, tomorrow I'll do the servos for the other wing.
DKjens

NdFrSpeed

My Feedback: (1)

I totally agree,,Sammy is really nice to deal with,,i recieved my 35% Yak last week,,the best built ARF ive seen so far,,I've got the Silver 35%,,nice work through out,,did a lot of looking before i decided with TOC,,would recoment it to anyone,,,,,I like it a whole bunch better then my Comp 2.6 EXtra for sure.,You look at the covering on Toc's,,very very little to go over if any,,i allways go over them any way,,but on mine i only found 2 spots worth going over on the whole plane...Cant wait to get it in the Air,,

NdFrSpeed

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Hey jens wouldn't it be easier to program them since your a hitec guy.

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Dennis,
Actually I'm a Futaba guy he he, but I don't want to mess with fitting the 9152 in this plane, and I wanted to try these 5995 straight off 2-cell Li-Ion. This here fitting is not any more work than programming the servos.
DKjens

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Oppps sorry

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

I did more work this evening. All aileron servos are installed, servo arms are bolted to the Airwild servo hubs, and all arms are 90 degrees to the servo in neutral position. I installed Nelson control horn rods and ball joints with ailerons off, and adjusted so each arm is the same length, to get geometry just right, and be able to avoid the use of matchboxes. Tomorrow I will glue the aileron hinges to wings and ailerons, and start on the stabs. Here are some shody pictures of the wings ready for hinging.
DKjens

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Hey Jens are you making your own extension's and solidering them ?

Thats alot of wire in them wings

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Dennis,
I use the extension wires and parts from Airwild to make my own extensions. It may seem pricey when you buy it, but 50" of wire in different sized extensions would be very expensive. I made extensions for the outboard and middle aileron servos. The inboard servo needed a 12", which I had two of.
DKjens

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Jens are you just using the plugs ( male & female )or are you solidering them.

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Dennis,
I'm using new plugs, crimping and inserting new doohickies. It doesn't take very long to make a few extensions. I bought the roll of wire, a set of male and a set of female plugs, and the crimping tool, all from Airwild. I am never going to buy another ready made extension for a giant scale plane again.
DKjens

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Well, just came in for the evening, didn't take any pictures tonight. I used 30 min Epoxy for the hinges, and ailerons and elevators are all hinged now. I first glued the hinges in the ailerons, watched a little TV, Thursday evening is good, all these babes in the series like Smallville, Everwood or whatever. I really enjoy watching "Everybody loves Raymond" and "My children". Anyway, then glued the aileron hinges to the wings and continued with elevators and stabs. I am missing the 4 servos for the stabs, so I can't make the links there yet, but I'll make aileron links tomorrow. The ailerons have a potential throw of about +/- 60 degrees, but I think I will just aim for 45 degrees each way. The elevators I will give as much as they can take. Well, all for now, an extremely easy build that hasn't presented any problems so far.

DENNIS C

My Feedback: (99)

Everybody loves Raymond Rocks!!!

sukhoi26mx

My Feedback: (1)

Couple of questions if you have time. I assume if you're running 2 cell lipos to the 5955's (around 7.2-8.4 volts depening upon charge state) that you're going into the Power Expander unregulated? Have you had any problems doing that? Are the 5955's holding up at 8 volts? I am flying 5955's on a TOC 42% Extra and would love to lose the wieght of voltage regulators but didn't know if that would cause problems.

BTW, agreed about the quality of Model Aviations (TOC) airplanes. I love the Extra. Very precise for precision, stable transitioning alpha, with fantastic control response.

Thanks!

Scott

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Scott,
I am running the 5995, not the 5955. The 5995 is also rated at 7.2V, where the 5955 is not, only at up to 6V. I have had the 5995 hooked up as you describe, to the power box straight off 2 cell Li-Ions, and there was no twitching or other undesired actions. Once the plane is done and RTF, I will do a simulated flight on the ground, I will have freshly charged batteries and wigle my Tx sticks around for 12 min and keep an eye on what the servo do. If they just do what they're supposed to, I'm good to go. If any of them does anything out of the ordinary, I will install regulators, and do the test over.


I installed firewall yesterday and will probably mark and drill for engine mounting today. The wings are complete and ready, they must have about 60 degrees throw on the ailerons. I am building a separate mount for the rudder servos, then gluing that mount into the fuse, hinging the rudder, and that should be ready.

DKjens

sukhoi26mx

My Feedback: (1)

DKjens,

Thanks for the info. I misread the servos specs. Do you know what the differences are between that and the 5955? Very similar specs at 6.o volts. Regardless, a full charged lipo under load is usually over 8 volts. I'll watch to see your results! Thanks!

Scott

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

OK, the progress for the weekend. I glued up the firewall/engine box. I used 30 min Epoxy. I dry fitted the firewall first, doing a little sanding on one notch. I put the angle alu in the corners and marked where to drill the holes. On the side of the box, I transferred the marking to the outside, so I could drill some straight holes, a 90 degree angle attachment to the drill would have come in handy here, and I could have drilled straight on the marks. I put Epoxy where wood would join, put the firewall on, tapping it in to get it all the way, and started bolting the brackets in. I later glued the triangle stock in place.
On to the rudder and rudder servos. the cutouts in the fuse sized for large 1/4 scale servos, so your standard size servos, such as my 5995, will drop right through. I went down to my local Hobby People shop and bought a piece of 1/4" poplar ply. I then made my own servo sub-mount, which allowed me to adjust the linkage outside the plane, mounted the servos, and mounted the sub-mount. I made sure that where the sub-mount mounting screws go in the fuse board, it is where the board is doubled up. I only used one link between the servos, since the rear link would interfere with the cables. I sleeved the single link with a carbon tube to make it stronger/stiffer. The picture is taken after the rudder is hooked up, and the tension on the wires move the servos slightly. This made the servos "sing", and I have to shorten the single link slightly.
I've got a qquestion for ya. I've got this female 35% pilot. Should I get a scruffy looking 40% male pilot and make her the passenger, or should I just go with her as the pilot? She can't very well make the front seat without a pilot he he.
DKjens

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Well, it's almost ready for the maiden this Saturday. Both ailerons, elevators and rudder have mega throw. I will post pictures of full deflections at the field Saturday. Mounting everything in position per manual made the plane balance well. I don't have the final and exact balance point, it mayy be a tad tail heavy, but I did ,ount two batteries rear of CG. Here are some pictures of the rudder, as it is removable, and on the picture, the rod is partially pulled out. I mounted my Rx and Smart-Fly Power Expander on a thin piece of ply, and suspended it from its corners in springs, not many vibrations will reach this Rx. I am using the stock tank, and we'll see how long flight times I get. this is a much sleeker airframe, than the 40% Yak, and in an Extra of same size, you can squeeze about 20 min out of a 50 oz tank, so I think 10 min is safe with this stock tank.
The DA150 inside this cowl is a very tight fit, and I had to make a cut on the left side. I could have mounted the engine about 3/8" further right, and it would have just fit. Using the "fuse secured on tail, engine on firewall, cowl mounted, adjust engine" method would be the way to mount it justt right. It is however not easy standing and securing a 9' fuse on its tail and performing that procedure. I use a little zip lock bag for fasteners and secure it in the fuse with a little Velcro, that way I know where they are, and when plane is assembled and in the air, the bag is empty, and the Velcro holds it easily.
I have also posted a few pictures of the 37% next to the 40%, and the difference in lines and bulkyness is obvious. Oh yeah, and just in case someone asks, that's the Herbie280 on the 40% Yak.

DKjens

mu2driver

My Feedback: (15)

Lookin Good Jens...Now do I need to come down to Cali for the maiden?

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

I don't think so Mr. W. Just git urs dun for the Turky Shoot.

DKjens

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

OK, did the maiden flight today, and all went well despite only a single flight. I thought I had all three conditions programmed into my 9Z WC11, but as I got to the flightline and was about to take of, I had overseen the dang throttle, my end points were off on low rate, and on high rate, slow roll. Jeez, it'll be good to get the 14MZ, programming should be so much easier. I had of course conducted proper range check before proceding to fly the plane. Take off went without a hitch, although it didn't just lift into the air, I had to give some up elevator, and had to put about 5-8 clicks of up-elevator trim in, and a little right aileron. I don't know exactly where CG is on my Yak. Without the wings in, I lift the fuse by the wint tube phenolic, and it seems pretty neutral. CG according to the manual should be towards the rear of the wingtube. Well, mine is tail heavy, because when I rolled inverted, it climbed slightly, but I was flying slow.
The reason for only a single flight is entirely my fault. The plane started to wiggle, just like my Composite-ARF 3.0m Extra had done, but the Yak did it much worse. I could also feel and see, that I was not getting nearly the rudder throw I should. I did however fly around in knife edge for quite a while, and it felt very neutral. I don't recall having had to compensate with elevator, but it may have tugged slightly, but it didn't need aileron to stay in knife edge.
I did bring it up and did a few flat spins, and put it in an elevator and than in a harrier. It was very stable, I did not encounter any wing rock at all. In harrier I really had to be gentle on the gas, or it would just stiick the nose up. I also did pull it into a high vertical and got of the throttle to put it in a hover. It was up high, and it seemed like it just kept climbing, so I know it will hover with easy, and have explosive climb out.
I am running these big JMB cans, and I may benefit by programming in a throttle curve. The Zipp tuned DA seems to come on quite early, and that might be why appeared dificuult to stop from climbing.
Any way, my rudder problem was because I had left a link out. I have two servo mounted side by side, per the manual. The two included aluminum arms should be connected to each other with two links, I had only installed the forward link, since the pull-pull wires interfered with the ball links on the rear link, and I didn't want the wire to get hung up. Leaving one link out, caused a side force on the servo spline of the pulling side. The servo spline was being pulled towards the other servo, a very ugly sight, and the set up was very bad. I have now installed the "missing link", and checked that the wires will not get hung up, and I am ready for Prado tomorrow.
Here are a few photos from today. This plane does fit in a Chevy Tahoe.
DKjens