grampi

The fuel guy

Thanks.........I think

XR2PROBE

I think what you're referring to is called liquid lock. This occures when the engine floods. I've actually experienced this using a starter box, and the box doesn't have enough torque to turn the engine over in this condition, so no damage is caused. The box actually makes this easy to clear. Simply remove the glow plug and bump the starter a few times. Clears the excess fuel very quickly.

ChetRog

That would be awesome..Hey and my spelling sucks too..Im gonna go have a few beers and pull on it somemore..

rusherracing

I am having this exact same problem. I just purchased a RC10GT with a O.S. max .12 motor. I got this item used, didn't want to invest a ton of money to just get started. but I think the carburator settings are messed up. compression is great. I am very familier with regular car motors, I autocross and drag race but these motors are new to me. I found the setting for the needle valve in the manual. 2.5 turns from tight but what about the idle mixture screw were should that be set at for starters. I understand once I get it running I need to fine tune it from there. Another question is can you use a starter box with a pull start motor. I might need to invest in one after I get my car tuned right and running. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have read alot but some questions aren't answered in the the manuals.

BUGGIES_R_US

Welcome to RCU buddy!!

You know the BEST way to deal with a "not starting" engine..

Change all batteries. Especially glow plug

Clean glow plug and make sure it glows

MAke sure fuel is in the tube!!

IF your using a starter box, take out the plug and see if theres fuel flowing.
(DO NOT LOOK INTO THE ENGINE. FUEL WILL SPLASH!!!)

Put the glow plug on and crank.. IT will start sometime! I guarentee it!

-ram

rusherracing

I changed all the battery's and have a full charge on the glow plug igniter, when you say clean the glow plug what do you mean by that. It does glow bright orange. I am also getting fuel it runs out my exhaust sometimes. Do you want to start it at idle or full thortle, somewhere in between? I actually did get it started but had to kill it because the spur gear was miss aligned, then it wouldn't start again. I think it will just take time playing with it. Also does anyone know a starting point for the idle mixture screw. I set the other needle at 2.5 turns out (what o.s. manuals says), but say's nothing about the idle screw. Thanks for the help.

ChetRog

I dont know where to put the idel screw either..Somebody will telll shortly though im sure ...The side of my middle finger has a blister from pulling that dang cord so much....Maybe im just stupid or something....glow plug it nice and orange color.Now instead of being tuff to pull its like its missing some of the catch when i pull.......Or is very easy to pull without making a sound sometimes...LOL

BUGGIES_R_US

So you DID get it started

What do you mean where do you put the idle screw? you didnt take it out right? lol

The set screw should be set so there the carb is opened by about 1-3mm depending on how your engine is set up

I'm off to bed!
I know it'll work out. Just keep at it!
-ram

rusherracing

yea i gave up on it for tonight
I found some more problems with it, missing a screw on the back side of the motor reason for my spur gear alignment to be messed up. fix that and try it again before work tomarrow. hopefully since tomarrow its supposed to be almost 50 outside.

dustyRS4

it makes the whole process easier if you primer the carb first, simply pull the filter off, with the radio and car on, pull the throttle wide open with one hand and just poor a little nitro in the carb, then put the filter back on and try to start it, i usually start with 5 pulls now that i figured that simple trick out...also make sure your glow plug is very tight, without that tight, it has no compression. in the manual it shows how much your idle should be, just a little sliver open.

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

This is the miss conception with you guys, i have two engine manuals in front of me one is os and the other is rossi...The idle screw you guys are refering to is called the idle stop screw it is for setting the barrel not the air fuel mix......I have said this before and three of you guys told me I was wrong, well I'm not the damn screw at the top of the carb sets barrel stop and thats it....yes 1 mm to 3mm once thats set its set but that is not the mixture for idle speed...the mixture screw is the low needle that allows a certian amount of fuel in to mix with the air and that is actually the idle mixture! this is what adjusts your idle rpm's slow, fast, low, high So this is for Chet and the other guy follow this proceedure!!!!!!!!!

1. close needle valve open to 2 1/2!

2. set the damn barrel screw at the top to 1mm and don't touch that freakin thing ever again! EVER!!!!!!!@!!

3. take the screw that sits in the middle of your carb swing arm and close it!!!!!!

4. take a piece of fuel hose put it to the carb intake nipple... start blowing in it!!! open the idle mixture screw in the swing arm till you have a hiss (constent hissing out of the barrel)..........

That is the intial settings okay!!! start the car......if idle is crappy or hard to start turn the middle screw the one for hissing open more this will allow more fuel in to the carb...With carb barrel closed put your thumb over the barrel hole this acts as a airtight seal (choke) Pull the cord to start if it gets hard to pull use your radio to open the throttle pull again

Once started go to full throttle and adjust needle for smoke and max rpm 1/8 turns eitther way on the needle till hearing optimum rpm

at low idle rpm adjust the middle screw for clean low idle sound....easy start plus a non loading low idle with a good transition from low to high! I have found on my rc-10 that three turns open from closed on the middle screw is the intitial setting. and adjusted finally to 4 1/2 every engine is differnt

Thats it ! Sorry, Im not trying to piss anyone off but you guys are calling the barrel screw the wrong thing and it is screwing sh*t up!! That barrell screw is a idle stop and thats what it does allowing the barrell to close to a certian point and no more BUT THAT DOES NOT SET THE DAMN IDLE SPEED!!!!!!!! On my website is a picture of an airplane engine 40 size that gives the break down of the carb...A two stroke is a two stroke is a 2 stroke!!!!!And the carbs are all the same! This is not directed personally to anyone in this Thread, But thats the fact of your engine and once terminology is understood and used it is easier to rig!!!!!

tom

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

Okay........Tear me apart, call me names, spit on my grave I don't care it's 52 degrees i called in sick too work and am going to go play with my freakin toys

XR2PROBE

My Feedback: (2)

hey buyrbware im just alittle curious....is the set up you are speaking of at your altitude or Oregons

because here in Oregon the needle valve should be anywhere from 1&1/2 to 2 turns out from dead stop

the barrel screw is set correctly for your measurements.....at 1mm
also as a note if you take a small piece of feul tubing and cut it to the length of the top of the screw to the carb and push it over the screw ...it wont vibratle loose.yes i know of the spring but i have had some engines vibrate loose even with it....this tip seems to stop it from readjusting under power

as for the last set screw in the middle of the control arm for most of oregon i have found that it should be flush with the case unless you are in eastern oregon or the coast then it should be set at the thickness of a piece of cereal box in from the case

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

2 1/2 is ageneral rule of thumb a place to start, yes finnal adjustment depends on air density in your neck of the woods...The idle stop (barrel screw)(litlle damn thing on top) sets at 1 to 3mm.... the middle one again depends on location! Sets but if not adjusted intiaitlly for the hissing then your getting no freakin fuel Look in the throat of your carb you will see the needle and understand that it allows fuel to come in to the throat you have to have the hiss...Then adjust from there for your altitude..If the follow the proceedures it will start and they can adjust as needed!

Tom

rusherracing

3. take the screw that sits in the middle of your carb swing arm and close it!!!!!!

4. take a piece of fuel hose put it to the carb intake nipple... start blowing in it!!! open the idle mixture screw in the swing arm till you have a hiss (constent hissing out of the barrel)..........

that was what screw I was talking about thank you. I wasn't tearing you apart, and me yanking on the thing mad me notice other things that were bad so it was probably a good thing. Well go have fun with your toy's I should call in but I think my friend is going to so I should be there, but what a wonderful day to go snowboarding. thanks for the help I should have it running this evening

dustyRS4

did someone ram a nitro fuel bottle up your ass, buyrbwware??

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

isaid that i had been corrected rudely from another thread not this one.....that was my reasoning for posting with an attitude!!! I just hate it when people try to give advise and can't even get the name right for the freakin screw and what it actually does!!!!

As far as my a** having a nitro bottle up it! I assure you that is virgin territory.....No bottle there!

Tom

Moonunit451

buyrbware,

Man U sure got a complicated way of naming and describing the different adjustment screws :spinnyeye . lol. I do however like the tip on blowing through the carb to adjust the LOW SPEED IDLE SCREW. Remember many of us RC10gt guys are running RTR's with standard engines, not OS and or Rossi's. Frankly I really don't think some of these guys are paying careful enough attention to what has been said to them. Where are their freaking manuals anyway?

BTW *** is Rocket Kitty . Oh ya, and I got your number now, look out. Playing hooky is usually reserved for government employees and mid and upper management types in the private sector. I spit on your grave !