HH100T 100cc twin Review
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
microgadget:
We used ball links on each end with heavy duty nyrod in between, after flipping the carb around. We also used one of the smaller holes in the throttle arm rather than the big one. Does that answer your question?
We used ball links on each end with heavy duty nyrod in between, after flipping the carb around. We also used one of the smaller holes in the throttle arm rather than the big one. Does that answer your question?
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
Anyone having trouble keeping the mufflers from vibrating loose? My temporary solution is to safety wire the bolt heads which I drilled out. Seems I may have to torque down the bolts and retighten the wires after each flight until I get it right . By theway thanks BTerry for the tutorial on how to safety wire , I will try it and report back. Kevin PS I still like my old Zinger prop however I do believe more "efficient=high dollar" prop would improve performance
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
tried red locktite but bolts vibrated loose andlost muffler. someone suggested engine heat toomuch and that rtv high temp silicon on the bolt threads may work. am going to give it a try! kevin
#32
RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
Kevin,
I emailed you my solution, which is to use some JB Weld as your thread-locking agent. I've done this on two gas engines now, and I've still been able to take the mufflers off when needed, and not once have they come off in the air. Some people told me not to do it, and that I'd never get the mufflers off, but I've had no problem. I think it just fills in the empty space between the threads. One thing I did NOT do was clean out the threads first. If you do that, they really may lock up.
-Pat
I emailed you my solution, which is to use some JB Weld as your thread-locking agent. I've done this on two gas engines now, and I've still been able to take the mufflers off when needed, and not once have they come off in the air. Some people told me not to do it, and that I'd never get the mufflers off, but I've had no problem. I think it just fills in the empty space between the threads. One thing I did NOT do was clean out the threads first. If you do that, they really may lock up.
-Pat
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
anymore numbers on the 100 engine? i need to update my earlier post also. after setting the timing on my fpe 95cc i am now getting 6400 rpm's on the ground with a 26x10 mejzlik and the same numbers on a 26x10 pt models prop.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
It blowed up...
The bolts that hold the left engine cylinder to the crank case pulled right out of the metal, with aluminum still in the bolts. When the head came off it was on the ground and only caused the piston to shatter. Should get it going again once I get a new piston, drill out and re-tap the bolts.
Any supplier who wishes to help with this problem????
Didn't want to be the one to test support, but I guess I will. Seems to me as if either I got a bad one, or the crank is made out of some sub-par metal.
The bolts that hold the left engine cylinder to the crank case pulled right out of the metal, with aluminum still in the bolts. When the head came off it was on the ground and only caused the piston to shatter. Should get it going again once I get a new piston, drill out and re-tap the bolts.
Any supplier who wishes to help with this problem????
Didn't want to be the one to test support, but I guess I will. Seems to me as if either I got a bad one, or the crank is made out of some sub-par metal.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
nmking09
I'll be interested to see how sylvian1975 responds to your crankcase problem. I bought the HH50T from him. I've only run less than 1/2 gal of fuel through it and the crank let go. It didn't throw a piston, they now go to TDC at different times. There is a plate which connects the crank pins and it moved. The plate started hitting the case and it shook like hell before I got it stopped.
I'll be interested to see how sylvian1975 responds to your crankcase problem. I bought the HH50T from him. I've only run less than 1/2 gal of fuel through it and the crank let go. It didn't throw a piston, they now go to TDC at different times. There is a plate which connects the crank pins and it moved. The plate started hitting the case and it shook like hell before I got it stopped.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
I can't see why you would... the numbers are way low for a 100cc... get an 80 single and you will have more power... DA 85 or ZDZ RV-J 80 are both super smooth.. similar price, lighter, and more power.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
Sorry about that, im buying a GRPRO 100cc, chinese also, but more knowed and has webpage, his owner said to me that hh100 is a bad copy of grpro 100 What do you think???
http://www.grpro.com.cn/
http://www.grpro.com.cn/
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
theses are the same engines sulyvan ~ sells. The more I find out about these chinise engine the more and more I go back looking at the real ones, could it be that in some time the chinise engines willbe as reliable as the DL-50?
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
ORIGINAL: sinergy
I can't see why you would... the numbers are way low for a 100cc... get an 80 single and you will have more power... DA 85 or ZDZ RV-J 80 are both super smooth.. similar price, lighter, and more power.
I can't see why you would... the numbers are way low for a 100cc... get an 80 single and you will have more power... DA 85 or ZDZ RV-J 80 are both super smooth.. similar price, lighter, and more power.
is because of the money a real DA 3W ZDZ,twin runs upwards of 1K. but I see why now they are worth the extra money
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
ORIGINAL: PAPE
is because of the money a real DA 3W ZDZ,twin runs upwards of 1K. but I see why now they are worth the extra money
ORIGINAL: sinergy
I can't see why you would... the numbers are way low for a 100cc... get an 80 single and you will have more power... DA 85 or ZDZ RV-J 80 are both super smooth.. similar price, lighter, and more power.
I can't see why you would... the numbers are way low for a 100cc... get an 80 single and you will have more power... DA 85 or ZDZ RV-J 80 are both super smooth.. similar price, lighter, and more power.
is because of the money a real DA 3W ZDZ,twin runs upwards of 1K. but I see why now they are worth the extra money
Well you have a couple options and one would be buy a DA 100 used. The extra couple hundred would be more than worth it.
However, what I am saying is that this 100 has less power than the 80 / 85s on the market and the prices are very close. You wouldn't be able to put this engine in a true 35%er and have power to spare like with a DA. You would have to put it in a smaller airframe to have decent performance and by doing that you are making that plane heavy for no reason. My 3W-85 is turning a Xoar 26x10 at 6400.. this engine is turning a lesser load 26x10 at around 6k. Between the lesser load prop and 400rpm on a 26" prop that is a night and day difference in performance.
The old saying you get what you pay for keeps coming to mind.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
they are saying 28x8 prop at 6000 rpm,s. a guy in our club just bought a new da 100 and it is turning 5800 on a 27x10 prop. if it doesnt put out what they say then i will send it back. it's supposed to be the version 3 with larger carb and mufflers. we'll see.
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RE: HH100T 100cc twin Review
They can say whatever they like... but real world numbers say different.
The 50 twin turns a Xoar 22x8 around 6400 which is easily 500 rpms less than the comp. If the 50 can't do it what makes you think the 100 is going to be better? Considering the first post in the thread talks of 5300 rpms with an MSC 27x10 how can anyone change to a 28x10 and gain 700 rpms? I mean MSC is a thick prop.. going to a CF prop will increase the numbers... but adding another inch its just not going to happen.
As far as the DA... well I would suggest better tuning. There are countless threads about that engine.
I don't mean to be a downer.. but whether this is version 1 or version 3.. this engine just isn't going to get the job done compared to other 100cc twins on the market.
As a side note.. a 3W-85xi with cans will turn a 28x10 at 6200.
The 50 twin turns a Xoar 22x8 around 6400 which is easily 500 rpms less than the comp. If the 50 can't do it what makes you think the 100 is going to be better? Considering the first post in the thread talks of 5300 rpms with an MSC 27x10 how can anyone change to a 28x10 and gain 700 rpms? I mean MSC is a thick prop.. going to a CF prop will increase the numbers... but adding another inch its just not going to happen.
As far as the DA... well I would suggest better tuning. There are countless threads about that engine.
I don't mean to be a downer.. but whether this is version 1 or version 3.. this engine just isn't going to get the job done compared to other 100cc twins on the market.
As a side note.. a 3W-85xi with cans will turn a 28x10 at 6200.