Poll on After Run Oil
11-14-2007, 11:16 PM
#26
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: amec
I use atf. I havnt seen aro in any lhs's around here. ATF also absorbs moisture. I only use it if i am not going to use the model for more than a week. I dont see any point in putting any into the cylinder. No steel to rust up in there. The crankcase is another matter, steel crank, steel bearings. Last week i had to change my backplate in my SH engine, it has not been used for approx4 months. All was shiny in there with a coating of atf everywhere. Started up second pull. Sweet
WD as stated is a water dispersant, not a sticky oil that will coat stuff.
Aro, yes. WD, no.
I use atf. I havnt seen aro in any lhs's around here. ATF also absorbs moisture. I only use it if i am not going to use the model for more than a week. I dont see any point in putting any into the cylinder. No steel to rust up in there. The crankcase is another matter, steel crank, steel bearings. Last week i had to change my backplate in my SH engine, it has not been used for approx4 months. All was shiny in there with a coating of atf everywhere. Started up second pull. Sweet
WD as stated is a water dispersant, not a sticky oil that will coat stuff.
Aro, yes. WD, no.
11-15-2007, 02:31 AM
#28
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
crack open the wallet and slap down about $3.00 for a bottle of ARO, lasts forever, hey, it is great $3.00 insurance, shure beats destroying your fav engine[
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11-15-2007, 08:07 AM
#29
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
I always use ARO after a day's bashing. It keeps my engine in good condition and helps it start it the next time easier. What happens is that some times there is some residual fuel in the engine which can attract moisture. This will cause corrosion inside the engine and this means bye bye engine!!.
There was a period when I did not use any ARO on my engine (savage 3.5) and actually I found that the engine did not fired up easily.
The change was evident to me when I started treating my engine with after run oil.
This is an easy answer: ALWAYS USE ARO!!! It keeps the motor it top condition by protecting the inside of it. And of course it costs almost nothing compared with the damage that it might cause the lack of use.
There was a period when I did not use any ARO on my engine (savage 3.5) and actually I found that the engine did not fired up easily.
The change was evident to me when I started treating my engine with after run oil.
This is an easy answer: ALWAYS USE ARO!!! It keeps the motor it top condition by protecting the inside of it. And of course it costs almost nothing compared with the damage that it might cause the lack of use.
11-15-2007, 01:34 PM
#30
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: amec
Automatic transmission fluid, ATF. It sucks up water, coats all the metal bits and burns out quickly.
Automatic transmission fluid, ATF. It sucks up water, coats all the metal bits and burns out quickly.
11-16-2007, 09:47 AM
#32
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
You need to inject it through the carb,and not the glow plug,or your not treating your carb,and fuel route from the carb.
1 or 2 drops in the gp will treat the cylinder only,no carb.
WD-40 blasted into the intake hose,is the trick.
Remember ARO isnt to coat the engine,it to remove water,and prevent rust.WD will do the same thing,and treat it all.BOTH will be burnt off as soon as the engine fires up.So you may as well take care of your carb too.
right?
IF ARO came in a aerosol........
CS
1 or 2 drops in the gp will treat the cylinder only,no carb.
WD-40 blasted into the intake hose,is the trick.
Remember ARO isnt to coat the engine,it to remove water,and prevent rust.WD will do the same thing,and treat it all.BOTH will be burnt off as soon as the engine fires up.So you may as well take care of your carb too.
right?
IF ARO came in a aerosol........
CS
11-16-2007, 10:11 AM
#33
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: burnchassis3
You need to inject it through the carb,and not the glow plug,or your not treating your carb,and fuel route from the carb.
1 or 2 drops in the gp will treat the cylinder only,no carb.
WD-40 blasted into the intake hose,is the trick.
Remember ARO isnt to coat the engine,it to remove water,and prevent rust.WD will do the same thing,and treat it all.BOTH will be burnt off as soon as the engine fires up.So you may as well take care of your carb too.
right?
IF ARO came in a aerosol........
CS
You need to inject it through the carb,and not the glow plug,or your not treating your carb,and fuel route from the carb.
1 or 2 drops in the gp will treat the cylinder only,no carb.
WD-40 blasted into the intake hose,is the trick.
Remember ARO isnt to coat the engine,it to remove water,and prevent rust.WD will do the same thing,and treat it all.BOTH will be burnt off as soon as the engine fires up.So you may as well take care of your carb too.
right?
IF ARO came in a aerosol........
CS
Did you read where HPI specifically says NOT to use WD 40? Why would you want to use something that the manufacturer says "do not use"?
11-16-2007, 05:22 PM
#34
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RE: Poll on After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: SportsFans
Which Engine manufactuerer suggest the use of ARO, and also what make of ARO do you recommened? For some reason I don't like the Hobbico, how about Trinity ARO?
ORIGINAL: DaveG55
When the manufacturer of your engine says to use ARO why would you substitute something else? It's not like ARO is expensive and you'd be using a product that's designed to protect your engine. WD40 is a good product but it was not designed to do what ARO does. There is only one engine maker (Traxxas) that says that you can use WD40 as an after run treatment and I believe there are some (but I cannot remember specifically which) that actually say NOT to use it.
To me, it's not worth risking a $150 or more engine when the recommended product is inexpensive, easy to use and easy to find. But maybe that's just me, idk.
When the manufacturer of your engine says to use ARO why would you substitute something else? It's not like ARO is expensive and you'd be using a product that's designed to protect your engine. WD40 is a good product but it was not designed to do what ARO does. There is only one engine maker (Traxxas) that says that you can use WD40 as an after run treatment and I believe there are some (but I cannot remember specifically which) that actually say NOT to use it.
To me, it's not worth risking a $150 or more engine when the recommended product is inexpensive, easy to use and easy to find. But maybe that's just me, idk.
11-16-2007, 06:34 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
RE: Poll on After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: jombo
yes the trinity after burn oil thats what i use with good results . the other stuff red afterrun oil i think pranther always made the truck run rich for a tank untill the oil burned off the trinity never had that problem and run perfect from the first tank to the last.
ORIGINAL: SportsFans
Which Engine manufactuerer suggest the use of ARO, and also what make of ARO do you recommened? For some reason I don't like the Hobbico, how about Trinity ARO?
ORIGINAL: DaveG55
When the manufacturer of your engine says to use ARO why would you substitute something else? It's not like ARO is expensive and you'd be using a product that's designed to protect your engine. WD40 is a good product but it was not designed to do what ARO does. There is only one engine maker (Traxxas) that says that you can use WD40 as an after run treatment and I believe there are some (but I cannot remember specifically which) that actually say NOT to use it.
To me, it's not worth risking a $150 or more engine when the recommended product is inexpensive, easy to use and easy to find. But maybe that's just me, idk.
When the manufacturer of your engine says to use ARO why would you substitute something else? It's not like ARO is expensive and you'd be using a product that's designed to protect your engine. WD40 is a good product but it was not designed to do what ARO does. There is only one engine maker (Traxxas) that says that you can use WD40 as an after run treatment and I believe there are some (but I cannot remember specifically which) that actually say NOT to use it.
To me, it's not worth risking a $150 or more engine when the recommended product is inexpensive, easy to use and easy to find. But maybe that's just me, idk.
