Kregger

The carbon body definately reduced alot of flex in the body over the stock one, so it made a huge difference (made the stock chassis look like rubber). I also have the 3 racing one (version 1) that I was playing with for a little bit. That one is stiffer that the carbon tub and lighter too. The 3racing graphite chassis seemed to work pretty well. Space as you know is pretty tight on the tub chassis. hope that helps.

I plan on runnig a TCS race so I can't use the 3 racing one, and at the time I was racing foam with it anyway.

mkoresh12

I know, I can barely fit my electronics in my tub. I just bought a smaller receiver. I don't participate in the TCS, no place close enought for me[&o]. Everyone at the track has the graphite chassis. Its kind of fun keeping up with them with my tub chassis. I might stand pat for now and see how I compete now that I'm on the same playing field with the brushless and lipo.

rcluke

i just came 2nd in my class, modified saloons.

i would have won, but i lost a minute because my battery had a dodgy connector.

also, the LRP ESC i am using keeps overheating after about 3/4 mins. This could be because the track tonight was 2x as long as normal.

next week, i will be racing on mini-pin tyres on a polished wood flood, goodbye grip lol

mkoresh12

I had several battery issues last season. I think my charger was false peaking(dynamite prophet plus) because I couldn't get through 5 minute races. I came in second in a main because the guy made up two laps on me in the last minute of the race. My car wouldn't go more that 6-8 mph and I barely crossed the finish line. He literally passed me with about 10ft to go to beat me. I purchased a better charger for next year and switched to LIPO. I don't plan to lose because of battery issues again.

rcluke

have you guys got any idea on how to keep my ESC cool?

Lunchboxer

A small cooling fan, Luke?!

What ESC are you running?

rcluke

LB, the ESC is this i think, http://modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunctio...n&ItemID=23916

this is my home-made cooling duct, i bent a motor heatsink lol.

i completely chunked this tyre in one night of racing , oh well it's the last time i could use them anyway, minipins next week :O

the car and trophy

mkoresh12

What kind of motor/battery are you running? That heat sink may be hurting more than helping. Its blocking air from moving over the ESC. The TA05 doesn't have a lot of space unfortunately. There is probably alot of heat coming off that heat sink on the motor too. My heat sink use to give off a lot of heat when the motor got hot. Try moving your ESC to on top of your servo and move the receiver to the other side. You'll have to play with the wiring but it will move it a little further away from the motor and could get some more air flowing over it.

rcluke

i am using a Team Checkpoint Money 19x1 motor.
Batteries are IB3600's

i dont really want to move the esc

mkoresh12

Have you been having overheating issues? I see that your using the bullet connectors on the motor to esc. Try switching these to deans as well. It should allow the electrical current to flow better. Don't know if it would make a huge difference but its a simple thing to try.

RE Amemiya

Cut out the holes in your windows perhaps?

I was an idiot and I cut up my chassis to allow my car to rally(I didnt realize how much pontential the car has) and now I am using ip ties to limit the ride height, it works really good to be honest.
Can one of you guys/girls please get a picture or two of a ta-05 with m chassis wheels? I dont like the regular scale 20" that these cars have...
I'll also note that through much desert rallying there is no sign of a broken aramid belt(Highly reccomend it to you) and the shocks/dampers are really stiff/fun when there is a big spcaer in there.

please try to get a picture.

rcluke

i will try that next race night, i might even just solder the ESC straight to the motor, if it doesn't overheat.

i just got a NOS capacitor for it, it will hopefully keep it a bit cooler.

To be honest, i think it was too hot, because the track was 2x longer than normal, so i was effectively covering 10mins worth of distance, in 5 mins

rcluke

the photo doesnt show it very well, but i raced on a polished wood floor for the first time last night and shredded the tops off of the pins on the tyres.

i can foresee this being expensive, the tyres cost $22 a set, if any-one knows where to get them for cheaper, please drop me an email. They are Schumacher Mini-pins Yellow compound.

rcluke

has anyone got one of these,
TA-05 Aluminium Transponder Stay 53844,
on their car?, if so please could you post a pic

mkoresh12

I dont use the stay. I use a long body pin and put the transponder in the front using the pin under the body work.

rcluke

Reply

mkoresh12

Interesting, I never really thought of that. i think I still have that piece somewhere. Maybe I'll give it a try this year.

rcluke

where would you attach the part it though?

mkoresh12

Dont know yet. When I get home I'll fiddle around with it. If its the part I'm thinking of then the downside would be that you'd need to use double sided tape to hold the transponder itself. I can't use that method of attachment since we use transponders assigned by the track.

rcluke

have you found a way to fit it?

if you stick the flat part to the car, then put the transponder through the hole, as if it was a shell

rcluke

i have just played around with my TA-05, and these are my top 3 positions (for the transponder holder)

mkoresh12

I tried a couple ideas that may work. I'm not going to mount it yet tho because I'm going to be installing a new, smaller receiver which may give me a couple better options. My race season is outdoor only so I have a few months to figure it out.

rcluke

Tamiya said that it would usually be atatched to the servo

mkoresh12

I was thinking that but my current receiver is large and resides on top of my servo and actually is larger than the servo. Thats why I'm waiting to get the new rx installed and then mess with.

rcluke

I use this receiver, this is nice and small

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=18683