stuch

i think he meant april 12th... if not his calander is off...

Scott Schneider

Folsom Modeleer member here ..... yes it is April

mike the snake

For the rails and transom I need 1/4" plywood correct?

Can anyone suggest where to get good 1/4" ply?

I looked at Midwest and Aircraft Spruce, any other places, maybe in California?

I'm going to lay up another boat tomorrow, with your tips and trial and error I think this, and future parts made will be excellent.

Thanks for all the replies.

nvs motorsports

Hey for those sharp edges mix up a bog using your resin use carbo-sil or q-cell it is a light weight filler
mix slow brew up when you laying boat up an put it in those hard to laminate areas your glass will bridge it an make an airless laminate

mike the snake

Thanks.

That is what I do on my glider molds, all difficult areas get "spooged". The next parts will be spooged and should be perfect.

I'm also going to go with 1 or 2 layers of finish cloth first before adding the structural cloth.

I wasn't careful enough working with the resins and glass and now I'm dealing with a rash/reaction. Pretty bummed out for a week now.

I wear a mask, but I'm sure some glass fibers made their way through my clothes. Getting better slowly.

I Plan on Carefully laying up another boat here soon

nvs motorsports

MATE ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING THIS STUFF CAN HAVE LETHAL REACTIONS NOT JUST WITH YOU BUT LOVED ONES
As a test crush some chocalate on your palm then put acetone on it within minutes you will taste chocalate in your mouth thats how quick these chemicals go into your blood stream
actetone harms your kidneys
catalyst form crystals in your liver an kidneys an if you get in your eye can blind you
resin will affect your lungs an internal organs
even some waxes can affect your nervous system

Build a nice boat but be well to enjoy it

mike the snake

Thanks.

I've worked with epoxy resins for years. The polyester resins are a lot stinkier. I used a charcoal cannister mask and wore jeans, but next time I'm going to wear long sleeve shirt, new filters, and I'm going to be much more careful.

I've already sold 2 or 3 of these hulls, so I need to get back in there and make at least 2 more hulls immediately.

nate_racer

Mike, when do we get to see pics of your new boats??

Dreamin Hemi

So what did you recommend using as layers? I read 300g and 450g. If I convert that, it's like 10.5oz fabric and 16 oz fabric....guess I used the wrong conversion. Using oz, starting with .75 oz cloth or matting, how many layers, and what weights of material should I use when making a hull? Currently making molds myself, and should be ready to make a hull very soon. Thanks!

-Scott

mike the snake

Hi Nate!!

Here's a pic of the hull.

As far as cloth weights, here is what I've concluded:

Gelcoat first

Then, a layer of light finish cloth (anywhere from .75oz. to 1.5 oz.) make sure all bubbles are gone, let it kick off a bit before continuing.

Then, a layer of medium cloth, and then 2 or 3 layers of 8 or 9 ounce cloth.

Next hull I'm using a thixo mix of resin and flock, hitting all the sharp corners and edges before adding any cloth.

Also I need advice on taping the seam. I had trouble applying the wetted out tape to the inside front of the sponsons

Hemi, on your big mono, I think maybe another layer or 2 of cloth on the bottom might be prudent, the cat has curves and corners that give it structure and strength, the mono hull has large flat areas that might need more material I think.

Dreamin Hemi

So from what I understand...

1. Gekcoat
2. .75oz cloth as a finish layer
3. Medium cloth.....you describe this way, but what oz weight?
4. 2-3 layers 8-9oz, probably more due to being a Mono

What difference would matting make in lieu of using cloth? Any advantages that you can see?

mike the snake

Different outfits sell different weigth cloths. Tap Plastics is where I'm getting my cloth until I place a large order, so I'm buying the weights they have.

Medium I'd put around 3 to 5 oz cloth.

The hulls I've made so far are 3 layers of 9 oz, and like I said, on a big mono you'll probably want another layer or 2 for the bottom.


I used the 8 oz matting on one hull, I think it can be used in place of cloth if one wanted. I think it comes down to what is easiest.

I see pics of hulls made with both

nvs motorsports

For sports boat layups which is the class of build id put you in 1 layer of 450 gram per square meter chop strand mat is ideal
or 2 layers of 225 gram per square meter chop strand mat will be easier to lay out as it is more flexible to laminate around sharp edges

As for racing setups the laminate would be layer of tissue glass followed by 6 to 9 ounce surf board cloth do it all wet in one hit

Problem with cloth is boat will be more prone to flex an fracture over time ok if you going to replace boat once a year

To beef up the running area on bottom of hull approx from transom to 10 inch forward of transom lay balsa strips 1mm thick into a light weight bog an glass straight over them only do this once first laminate has totally cured about 48 hrs this will keep bottom solid an straight

As for joining trim both hull an deck mold then mix up slow brew of joining putty resin gelcoat an carbo sil or talc make a icing bag an run a bead of bog along join of deck an hull then get 6 ounce cloth in strips about 1an half inch wide and glass the join while the bog is still wet this will fill any gaps an remove air from laminate on the join any areas you miss wil be joined with the bog
Also a tip fill the front of your hulls with 2 part foam foam mix fill to about 6 inches from tip of boat will help join hull an deck an if your damage front of boat your can easily fix with fibre bog