mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

Hey David, take it easy, I dont work for JetCat.

David Gladwin

Sorry then, mate, no upset intended, but the same principle ( a decent and concise manual) applies to ALL products ! However, as a JetCat rep. can you please apply some pressure to JetCat to get their manuals RIGHT up to date. JetCat USA is not too bad but JetCat Germany are dreadfully behind with their manuals. as I have just found with the purchase of two new 160SEs. I just dont see why obsolete documentation is a problem with modern word processing.

I am absolutely certain that the quite brilliant JetCat ECUs deserve a manual of equal quality so that customers can get the best from these superb devices. It is in the best interest of JetCat , dealers, reps. and not least customers, we all benefit !

I will be keeping up the pressure but please don't take it personally !!

Great F100 (to keep on thread !) Really motivates me to finish the refurb. of my F4.

Regards, David.

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

To think, I knew Patrick when he was just a snot nose kid......oh, wait...he's still a snot nose kid, but at least one who now knows how to finish a first class jet.

Nice job pal.

Craig

bcovish

My Feedback: (8)

Tell that to Dawn Ellzey and see what kind of response you get

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

I'd like to be nearby when this conversation goes down.

bcovish

My Feedback: (8)

Patrick

If your going to the Mississippi event, don't say anything to Dawn until then, all of us from Texas want to watch.[X(] Check all firearms at the gate, that includes potato guns.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Bob -

I am sure Dawn will forgive a punk *****, snot nose kid like me. I once heard someone say...................................be nice to stupid people.........................I am quite sure she will have mercy on me.

banditarf robert

dammmnn Frosty, that thing is saweeeet

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Here are a few more pics I took:

bcovish

My Feedback: (8)

And if she needs any help which I don't think she will, her backup is on standby

THE JET DOGS[>:]

BTW Great looking 100

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

I have had several guys PM me or email me asking how to make a canopy functional via remote. Here is how the process starts: This can be done before you complete your bird or after it was completed months or years later just as I did mine. This makes for a great Winter project and wont take too long if you follow these simple steps.

First: Cut your Canopy hatch making sure you mask off one side of the line or both sides with a dremel diamond/metal wheel or you can use a #11 exacto blade but this will take much longer. If your canopy doesnt have lines then look at some full scale photos of your bird and apply 1/8" blue fine line masking tape indicating where you want to make your incision. You also may want to plan on purchasing a new canopy as mistakes do happen. I was glad I bought another for mine as I did use it. (they should be fairly inexpensive).

Once you cut your canopy you will need to beef it up by making two frame formers (one for the front and one for the back) out of carbon fiber or thin plywood. (I would use carbon fiber) once you get the frame formers completed and ready to glue be sure to secure them with Hysol or Aeropoxy. Be sure to wear a dusk mask during this process as the carbon fiber is quite nasty and you will not want to breathe that stuff!

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Set that aside and let dry and start making your back plate so your hinge can secure to something. I bought my hinge from Dan at Details 4 Scale. This hinge was intended for the large SkyMaster F-4 but it worked great on my BVM F-100 with very little modification. Be sure you have your hinge ready as you go through the next step:

I made my Canopy hinge backplate out of 2mm carbon fiber and used two of them as a doubler and used Aeropoxy to secure them together. I sort of made my backplate in an "A" shape design as this worked best for my inlet set up. You want to to keep in mind that everything you are making should be fully removable if you should need to work on your by-pass or canopy, etc.

I also made a cross brace out of 3/8"x1/2" plywood and this prevents the fuse from warping or moving inward or outward and holds the canopy backplate in position making for a very strong design. Secure the cross brace to each side of the fuse with screws only! I also cut a few maple blocks and Aeropoxied them to the top of the inlet so the backplate had something to secure to at the bottom of the backplate. This really beefs it up and is almost impossible to move once completed.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

These are what the hinges should look like but anything similar will work. I had tried the Large Robart hinges but they just didnt quite do the job as the canopy needs to lift UP and AWAY to clear the back of the canopy and fuse. The block portion of the hinge attatches to the carbon fiber doubled backplate and the two arms are glued to the inside/rear canopy. (the two arms are your MOST important glue joint so be sure you have this part done correctly. I used alot of Aeropoxy around those areas).

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

You will also need a Cylinder of your choice and depending on your aircraft you may need a 1 5/8" stroke or something as small as a 1" stroke. I used a 1 5/8" stroke on my B.V. 100 and my B.V. F-4E will most likely require 2 - 1" stroke cylinders for each canopy.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Mount the backplate to the cross brace using 4-40 bolts and washers and be sure to use a tap/die on the cross brace as this makes for an easy removal/install. Slide the backplate all the way down so it touches the top of the inlet. Install the air cylinder hinge under the canopy and tack glue it in place first with Zap medium and some accelerator. You can purchase the hinge and cylinder capture/mount from Dan at Details. Its a small piece of fiberglass that allows the upper cylinder to mount and creates a hinge point with a metric screw that goes through the mount and cylinder. Be careful not to overtighten as you want to allow the arm to continue to pivot. You can also drill a 1/16" hole in the side of the canopy so the metric screw is easily accessible to remove and install. My canopy takes approximately 2 minutes or less to remove and the cockpit slides out with two screws should I need to access my batteries up front or my ECU, etc.

Notice how the cylinder mount fits between the actual canopy hinge. Be sure to sand and Aeropoxy the hinge and cylinder capture/mount as you dont want them coming off in flight. If you wanna go the extra mile then you can run 2 small screws into the hinge and capture mount as you would do when installing large DUBRO hinges to gear doors.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

After you have the upper part of the cylinder ready you can glue a maple block to the inlet top so you can screw the lower part of the canopy cylinder to it for easy removal. Be sure to Aeropoxy/Hysol the maple block. You can use 2 sheet metal screws to secure the air cylinder. You will need to take a dremel tool and grind the block slightly so the cylinder airline can fit through or beneath the block. Be sure to scuff the top of the inlet where the block will meet with 80 grit so the maple block will really grab onto the inlet once the Aeropoxy cures.


Once you have that part completed you are ready to secure the canopy hooks under the canopy. The best way to do this is to use a dremel cut off wheel or file a hole and install the hooks using Aeropoxy/Hysol. Be sure to sand both carbon fiber hooks where they will be glued and inside the canopy if you are able. (each canopy will be different) Make sure the hooks are installed so they point to the rear of the fuselage about 1"-1.5" from the front edge and be sure the hooks are a perfect 90 degrees from the bottom of the canopy. I used carbon fiber hooks because I felt that Dan's fiberglass hooks were not up to the task. (I am sure he will make the change as I suggested this to him once I received them) I traced Dans hooks with a fine tip marker making my job much easier when cutting the carbon fiber.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

You are now ready to install the locking mechanisms and this is the fun part! Be sure the locking mechanisms will fit under your fuselage flange and if they will not then you will need to make modifications trying not to remove too much fiberglass from the fuse. This is what your locking mechanism should look like:

baron-noir

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Patrick,

thanks for sharing this beautiful project. I noticed the landing lights (bottom fuse), are they retractable and functional ? Where did you get'them ? I need them for a F-5. Also the opening canopy is a piece of art, thanks for giving the details. You are giving me motivation to try the same on a F-5F !

Congrat.
Sk

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Be sure to install notches on each side to allow for the canopy hooks to pass through the fuse and connect with the locking pins...............

You can secure the locking mechanisms beneath the fuse flange with Aeropoxy/Hysol although I dont like this due to the fact that if you ever have a problem with a cylinder you will have a tough time removing them. I am still thinking of other ways that my be more effective such as screwing them from the top side with small screws. I hope to have something a little different figured out by the time I get to my F-4E canopies.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

You will now need to create the servo valve tray with thin plywood and a micro servo. I used a BVM Hi Flow valve and an air actuator switch. You can purchase the small (silver) air tank from Dan at Details or use any small sized air tank. Dan also made the air actuator switch mount for me again making my job alot easier. I used the servo slow feature on my JR 10X radio and the servo is moving @ 6 degrees per second. When the button is depressed the locks are activated forward therefore locking the canopy. You can also incorporate some features such as having another switch depressed once the canopy is locked signaling a green light on your fuselage that the canopy is secure and you are cleared for takeoff. I would eventually like to do this but time is of the essence.


*** Dan has made the first Auto Canopy sequencer Unit for me allowing my F-100 Canopy to be fully automated. With a wheel sensor attatched to the strut and tire there is also a small square magnet that is installed/cut and glued flush with the tire itself. Upon landing and the wheel sensor depicts there is no more movement applied to the tire and the flaps are fully deployed and the drogue chute has been deployed ONLY then will the canopy begin to raise. I will let Dan fill you in on the rest of the details as this is what he does. More on that to come here soon I promise!

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

You can use a small airtank for your canopy as this does not require alot of air. I have mine mounted with velcroe on top of the by-pass. I would keep it on a separate system as I believe it should be. Install the air fill valve of your choice. I am using approximately 100-110 PSI on my canopy system and this works quite well. Be sure to check the canopy for air leaks once system is installed. Check it with a timer with canopy in down and locked position and check with the canopy in up position with timer. Hopefully you wont have any leaks but 20 min would be sufficient.


If you want to get really creative you may install thin poly ply to the interior of the canopy and paint it just as I did mine. This really gives off a clean appearance once the canopy is open................ especially when you apply your nomeclature, rivets, etc. I had Jerry at Pro-Mark Graphics custom make all my small lettering for my canopy and my pylons, bombs, etc.

You may also want to consider concealing all your wires, airlines, etc. using more poly ply on those areas. Your cockpit may do that for you. I had to custom create my cockpit. I used a Blue Box Female Pilot as she was a bit smaller than the other Blue Box figures and made some torsoe modifications. I also shaved the breasts for a more manly look and removed the lower seat as this made the pilots head stay clear of the canopy upon closing. I had to fill all cracks and crevis' in the cockpit with poly ply on the 100 so almost everything is hidden now.

Keep in mind that this is a love/hate relationship and until you fully understand just how you are going to tackle the job then be prepared to take it slow and easy. If you are not good with the dremel tool then you also may want to purchase an additional canopy/hatch to practice with. Patience will win this one in the end!


The first time I saw this feature was at Superman 2003 with Joe Grice's "Pretty Penny" and I must say that it really puts any jet over the top when someone rolls a canopy up after a flight......... creepin into the pit area! With todays jets getting larger and more detailed why not put your bird "Over the top"?



-Frosty

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

Stephane,

I purchased my landing lights from Dan at www.Details4scale.com

They are functional lights that are deployed with "gear down" and the lights are activated once the gear are down. Very much like the full scale. Dan will sell you the light housing/lights, controller, gear switch, air cylinders to actuate the lights, etc. Be prepared to have your work cut out for you as this does take time but WELL worth it in the end.

Take care of my beautiful twin Rafale. The money from that bird help to fund my F-100 project! Thanks Bro! [8D]

baron-noir

My Feedback: (1)

Glad I could help

SDCrashmaster

Sa•freekin•weet Patrick.

Patrick Frost

My Feedback: (88)

I would like to see some of your functional canopies if you got em! Lets see how you guys did yours...........................