cocobear

My Feedback: (2)

John You would need a humungous tank. Glow just gets sucked down. If you are runnng spark ignition the whole point is gas.

Hey John, thanks for the heads up, my keyboard wasn't typing k's or i's!!

Shrky

Got a little more done today. I managed to rough out the stab and elevators. Still have some clean up to do and more pieces to add but so far not to bad. I used a product called alumiweld to join the pieces of the stab and elevators. Still not sure if I like it or not, first the rod is really to heavy for work this size and with this thin wall tubing you have to get the heat just right, to cold and the rod won't melt/adhere to hot and you'll melt the tubing. My wife painted the bracing wires and faux turnbuckles for me, came out really good I think.

Scott

flying wires

My Feedback: (13)

Check out Nelsons hobbies, http://www.nelsonhobby.com/aeronca.html

He is using a product called MetalWeld epoxy, I have not used it but he seems to like it on his Aluminum plane builds though.

Trev

Just came across this thread. The quality of construction is superb and looks very scale, how did you anchor the cross-bace wire attachments to the fuselage frame?
On a 1/5th Nieup. 10 that I started a few years ago I used a much more primitive solution by simply drilling small holes to accept the wire.
Hope its alright to include a few pics. I based it on the windsock 3-views, it is essentially a 2-seater N.11 with a very similar layout.
My project has stalled due to lack of time but I'd like to resume in the not too distant future.

Please keep on posting with this great build, very inspirational!

cheers

abufletcher

Good to see you here on RCU again, Trev!!!

Shrky

Trev,

I just used the smallest screw eyes I could find at the local hardware store. They are a little bigger than I wanted and after thinking about it I should have found some place that has fishing lure supplies. The hook eyes used like on bass lures probably would have been better sized. Feel free to post any pictures you like the more information available the better all our models will be. What did you use for the ribs on your N.10? Did you cut them out or have them laser cut?

Scott

Trev

Hi Scott,

I'm more than happy to share any pics I have. For the ribs I used ply (1mm or about 1/32). I cut them out with an electric fret saw from a printed pattern by stacking about 10 bits to save time.
Thin ply parts easily warp so I aligned them over the plan using comb-like balsa spacers (an idea I copied from somewhere on the forum). With the main structure complete I applied thin ply rib caps. In retrospect it would have probably been easier to do this before assemblying the wing (as is the case with all those impressive proctor N.11 builds).

The eyelets seem to do the job very well, at 1/3 scale I don't think they'd be visible through the covering so the illusion is perfect.

I'm really curious to see how you plan to do all the control surfaces , I wrecked my head trying to come up with a scale-like torque rod construction on the ailerons. Will you have servos in the wing or go with the bellcrank controls?


Don, nice to see you again too

Shrky

Trev,

I'm in a holding pattern at the moment. I don't like the way the tail feathers came out especially in strength. Heating the aluminum while welding with the alumiweld really softened it. I have some carbon fiber tubing on order that I'm going to redo the tail feathers in. I want to have the ribs laser cut so I'm looking to getting that done. Yes I will use a scale torque rod for the ailerons. Have you seen this drawing of the aileron hinges? It may help.

Scott

Shrky

Well just wanted everyone to know that I have been working on the Bebe. As I said earlier, I wasn't happy with the strength of the stab and elevators I made out of aluminum tubing so I redid them using carbon fiber rod and aluminum tubing for the curved sections. I'm waiting on some more carbon rod to finish the internal braces, but I have the frame work and hinges done. I sent Laser Lizard the files for my wing ribs so I should have them late next week.

Scott

Shrky

Sorry it's been so long since my last update. Working for the railroad I don't have any scheduled days off so I have to build an hour here and an hour there. I've got the stab and elevators done and installed. I've tried to follow the full scale's construction methods as closely as possible. Here is the stab assy. on the fuse.

Scott

Shrky

I didn't want bolts holding down the stab to show so I came up with this. The full scale has a removable section between the last turtle back bulkhead and the stab, I'll simulate this with a carved balsa block held on by rare earth magnets.

Scott

Shrky

On the full scale the rear of the stab has a tang that slide under two dog ears on the rear vertical tube. I've done something similar but a lot easier to construct. As an added bonus this will allow the stab to be removable. The wood tongue sticking out will be grooved as additional support to the rudder.

Scott

Shrky

The stab has two struts holding it in place. The second picture shows how the struts are attached to the bottom of the fuse. Between the three of these attachment points I thing the stab will be strongly held to the fuse.

Scott

Shrky

I tried to get the elevator hinges as close to the full scale's as possible. The lock nuts you see on the struts will be replaced with smaller nuts and lock washers during final assembly.

Scott

Shrky

I made four elevator cable guides out of brass stock. As on the full scale they have a lip that extends down into the wood. I had hoped to get things cleaned up a little before posting pictures (excess solder removed, gaps filled etc.) but it had been such a long time since my last update I didn't want to wait.

Scott

Shrky

These are from Laser Edge Sales. If you need parts laser cut, I can't recommend Rich Gunderson and his brother highly enough. First they can use almost any file format to cut from so you don't need CAD files. I sent them .pdf files of my CorelDraw drawings and the ribs matched my drawings perfectly. Second their customer support is second to none. I received several emails from Rich keeping me up to speed with the status of my order and when my order came and I was short a couple of the small wing ribs, an email to Rich had them in the mail a day later. Finally I found their prices to be among the best around. Check them out at http://www.laseredgecutters.com

Scott

Trev

Shrky this is beginning to look more like the construction of a minature aircraft than a model. Very nice detail solutions! Will the elevator halves be connected to seperate servos (from the close up of the stabliser rear it seems they move independently within the alu tube)?
I assume you're building a detachable rudder? I would like to do the same on my Nieup 10 but so far I haven't really addressed the tail assembly at all.

Shrky

Trev,

I haven't decided yet how I'm going to do the elevator control. Yes the elevator halves can move independently within the aluminum tube. I can go either with one servo driving each half or have each side control cables connect to separate bellcranks that are connected and driven with one servo. The rudder will be detachable. On the bottom of the tube where the brass strap that forms the strut attachment is, will be a very short section of tubing that the post of the rudder will sit in. It will have a top hinge just like the ones on the elevators. Pull the bolt that goes through the top hinge out, remove the control cables and the rudder will lift right out.

Scott

Shrky

I've managed to get a little done on the Bebe.

I did some covering on the stab and elevators. I'm using Sig's Koverall and dope so it's a little bit of a learning experience, but I really like the results so far. Also I was able to find Abufletcher's custom cowl maker and order one for my N.11 The last picture is after four of the large fiberglass dremel cutoff wheels and several of the smaller phenolic ones. Still more cutting to do but that will have to wait until I get the fire wall cut out.

Scott

Shrky

Work on the wings has begun. Torque tubes for the ailerons are 1/4" Carbon Fiber rods riding in 9/32" aluminum tubing.

Scott

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

Scott

What are the particulars on the cooking po.....er, I mean the cowl? Steel or aluminum, etc.......I can see the name, but what kind of store did you find it in?
And the final question........Does it match your 3 views?

Art

Shrky

Art,

My wife found it online at http://www.instawares.com/aluminum-s...-65532.0.7.htm It's about 1/8" in dia. larger than my drawing shows and the leading edge radius looks to be just ever so slightly smaller than it looks on the pictures of the N.11 I'm building but it measures correct. A parallax thing I guess. I checked out Arizona Models and what they offer still needs to be cut down and runs $95.00 plus postage. Mine was $68.00 with free shipping. It's aluminum about 3/16" thick, very sturdy but cuts fairly easily.

Finally working on the Bebe just got a lot easier. My wonderful wife insisted I pick these up today while we were out. Additionally she picked me up a circular cloth cutter and cutting mat at the girl store for cutting the KoverAll, man does that make covering much easier.

Scott

R/C Art

My Feedback: (38)

That's pretty thick for a cowl......I guess it provides built in nose weight, huh?
The radius looks to be a little on the sharp side. I am using an old BUSA cowl from a 1/3 Pup for mine.....the radius is also not quite right but conjurs up the correct imgage, which is really what we are after. I have thought about having one spun, but that is a little pricey! Maybe if several of us go together ? The last time I checked with a metal spinner, it was going to cost in the $8 to $9 hundred range and would require a minimum order of 25 to 40 pieces, depending on which company was used.......too much for me for just one airplane.
Its always nice to hear that a modeler's wife supports his efforts! Kuddos to yours.
My wife, Rhonda, supports me too and serves as my mechanic/caller when we go on the contest circuit..... as well as my assistant while at the local field.
Her photography interests blend well with my flying acitivities.

Gotta go, time to load the van for the Hoosier Dawn Patrol at the AMA National flying site, Muncie , Indiana. Fri, Sat and Sunday.
Cheers,
Art

www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com

Shrky

Art,

Don't know where I came up with 3/16", I just measured it and it's 1/16" thick. It weighs about 2-3 pounds right now but when it's all cut down I'm sure it will be about a pound. Gonna need the weight in the nose anyway. Good luck at the Dawn Patrol, make sure to take lots of pictures.

Scott

Shrky

Just a little update to show I am working on the N.11. The empennage is covered and has a couple of coats of clear nitrate on it. I've started working on the control cables for the rudder and elevators. Only one cable on the rudder as I ran out of cable. First picture is the elevator control cables. The second is the control horn for one of the elevators. I added a grommet to help with the wear from the cable. Sorry for the poor quality photo but my camera doesn't do close ups very well. And finally, a shot of a couple of guide blocks temporarily installed to keep everything routed properly.


Scott