mogobbler

Will this su-26 handle the old brute zenoah g-62 My brother has one and is thinking about purchasing the plane. What do you guys think.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

g-62 would be awesome!!

z06kal

Okay folks. Got my SU-26 today as well. So far looks like an AMAZING value however will have to wait and see how she holds up and how well she flys.

I tried to get a rough idea of the airframe weight. I was using my digital bathroom scale so there is possibly a certain percentage of error in these (may be substantial will have to wait till I get an accurate all up). I took multiple readings on the scale and tried to go for the high side.

Cowl and Wheel Pants - 13oz
Wings - 3lbs 14oz
Fusalage + Horizontal + Elevator + Rudder - 5lbs 10oz
Landing Gear + Wing Tube + Tail Tube - 1lb 11oz
Total Empty Weight: 12 pounds not including firewall plate or any linkages or linkage hardware. This is probably on the high side.

17lbs sounds reasonable dry assuming you try to keep the receiver battery light (lithium).

Personally I am doing electric so 3lbs batteries, 2.5 pounds motor + prop, .5 lbs ESC+3xCCBEC, 1 pound radio/hardware, I am probably looking at closer to 19 pounds ready to fly.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

I guess if it does come out as light as you want..you could remove some things..like the cowling, the wheelpants, canopy, or 1/2 elevator..haha
Seriously, if nitroplanes says the "recommended" (which I disagree) engine is a DA-85 with pipes..I would think an electric version would be killer light!!


good luck on your build.
Bobzilla

PropNut71

I just ordered this plane tonight from NitroPlanes and have only built several Hangar 9 ARF kits which have good instructions. The post that Bobzilla wrote has me a little concerned about the directions that will comewith this kit, any suggestions is greatly appreciated.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

I also found that the factory did not cut the ultracote(?) and seal around the huge slots that the wings slide into.
To tack the coating down..I used some stixit and a small iron and folded the coating back under the side panels.
I have never had a plane where this was NOT ALREADY done! If you look at the attached picture from Nitro website, it is obvious
that the slots are just covered over. (see green circle) If you do not do a good job of tacking the coating down..I would expect
the coating to start peeling after numerous wing removals/attachments.

BIHAMBY Use your common sense and care with this build. DO NOT take the manual as being the build bible as it is errored in many areas.
I hope the areas I have alerted you to help on your build and good luck!

PropNut71

If I can pick your brain for a minute Bobzilla what motor do you suggest on a tight budget for this plane?

PropNut71

Does anyone have anymore build pictures of this plane?

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

If you go to my website www.evflyers.org and see links to twelve 50-55cc engine with pictures, spec and links to websites.
OUr field has goobs of DA-50's, but this last year..2 motors have come on and have performed all this summer quite well.
They are the 3MM 53 and the DL-50. Both run/start great and have good support.

http://evflyers.org/news.php

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Using a soldering iron is a simple way of removing the covering,while sealing the edges down at the same time.Simple and safe,smells a little but works well everytime
I hardly ever cut with a blade

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Great idea..but in this case..I would prefer to cut the slots about a 1/4 in short and fold back the coating to be inside the fuselage edge. This arf does not have the smooth
formed slots like my TOC1 YAK has. See attached picture of YAK with finished slots for wings. (green circle)

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Z06kal..was wondering how much $$$ it costs to outfit electric? what size batteries, esc and what motor..
care to share? Thanks

www.evflyers.org
bobzilla

z06kal

Using HobbyCity stuff it is relatively cheap.

Turnigy 100amp 12S Speed Controller - $100
HXT 63-74 - $66
Zippy-R or Zippy-H 4800-5000mah 10S-12s LIPOLY - $250

That setup is around $450 after shipping. 12S is probably a bit too much for such a high KV motor tho. It will probably pull right around 100 amps on a 22x10 at full throttle at 12S which might be too much for the motor and ESC. I might give it a shot at 12S on the bench first as the HXT 63-74 is a very affordable motor and should work fine if I were to dial it back to 10S. I use the 63-64 in my bobcat and it is has been a good reliable motor but I havn't pushed it that hard. Otherwise, I'll use a AXI 5345/18 for 12S which is a $200 motor and the amp draw will be more reasonable.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

great..looking forward to your final set up Z06kal..
last question..what charger will you use to charge that battery?

www.evflyers.org
bobzilla

PropNut71

Does anyone know of any videos of this airplane flying?

PropNut71

Does anybody have any build pictures of this aircraft?

PropNut71

I just received my SU-26 today and everything looks great. I have never put together a plane of this size before and was wanting to know if there is anything I should do different when building this plane? I also noticed that some fiberglass control horns came with the kit and I have never used these before, can someone please explane how these attach to the servo? Thanks in advance.

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

First Bihamby..don't take the instructions as the bible building this plane..it is wrong in many areas.
Those horns are meant to bolt on to any of your existing plastic horns with those little tiny bolts and nuts they give you. Personally, I don't like plastic, especially on a 50cc plane.. with high torque servos. I would invest in some nice metals arms for your servos. (I prefer AirWild)
Use common sense when building this arf. I upgraded most of the hardware to stuff I trust..i.e. better tailwheel assembly, titanium axels, nicer tires, metal arms. I did use the ball link hardware as it seems quite nice and strong.
Add extra support/glue around the landing gear attachment plate inside fuselage. I also doubled my engine mounting plate..the one supplied was hardly 1/4". I also pinned the firewall and angle stock inside and outside the firewall. Do not permantly mount your batteries, until you finish the plane..then use the batteries to locate
the proper cg. Mounting the cowl is a cluster *&^%. Also you should add a support brace or backing to the inside of the front of the hatch, where the carbon fiber rods go in. You should also added extra glue to the back brackets on the hatch. I added extra balsa support to both sides (inside the hatch). If these brackets break..you hatch will be a flyin!. The hatch is very weak plastic in front (red part) and any pressure downward will crack it. You will find a strange arrangement of 4 pieces of wood that fit all together..to form a brace for the top of the firebox..and it will support the top of the cowling..Of course you won't find info or instructions in the manual for this!! Measure your engine and determine what distance your front plate needs to be at for proper cowling/prop clearance. I sure I will find more things to worry about with this arf..as I build along. Good luck with yours..and if doubt about something, just post up your question(s).

PropNut71

Thank you for the help Bobzilla. My build will be quite slow, most likely a winter project due to the fact that I will have to go through my financial advisor (wife) before I buy the rest of the goodies for the inside. I did see in my manual that it says to use 180 oz. servos, I have only used regular torque servos in the past and was curious as to why this takes such a higher torque servo? Sorry for all the questions, this is my first gas/large airplane and I really want to do it right.

PropNut71

Something I forgot to mention is that I did notice in the pictures on Nitro Planes website that the wing tube did not have a tunnel inside the fuselage, however my plane came with a fiberglass tunnel inside. I wonder if there are any more "improvements" from past kits?

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

Actually the wing tube tunnel is there..just hard to see..
(see green arrow)

Rcnet

Here is a video I found.

http://rcnet.no/b2b/product_info.php...oducts_id=1231

Harald Magne

bobzilla

My Feedback: (63)

The video shows not much more than the pictures..and the plane is not even built.

PropNut71

How does one determine the proper down and right thrust when installing the firewall? I did notice something I didn't like about the kit, the horizontal stabilizers has a small wing tube that runs through them and the manufacturer has cut part of the hinges off so they do not hit the wing tube tunnel which doesn't leave as much area to glue.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

If you guys are still looking for engines for this plane I would suggest getting one of the RCGF's. I would recommend the 45, 50, or the 65cc engine, depending on what type of flying you will be doing. They are really good engines and are really reliable... I own one of the 65cc versions, Mine is the old version and it still runs great... New out of the box it spun a 22x10 zoar prop 6900 rpm's, Now it spins a 22x10 to 7300 rpm's. I have a 24x8 prop on there now for better prop wash, and it spins that 6700rpms. Was getting more but I sucked a spring up into my engine and had to change out the piston. I had very bad strait in crash and the engine is still going... I have some video of the engine on a Yak-54, 24x8prop. Its made Just like the Nitro Planes yak-54's but with a different covering Scheme.

This is the website of the US distributor... Very good costumer service, Henry is a nice guy and has helped me out a few times.
http://www.zrcgf.com/

Here is the video of the 65cc in action on my Yak-54.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2d7N6Wvy5A

If you would like to see are hear more costumer reviews join in on the forum...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_78...tm.htm#7823494

Update, RCGF will soon be selling the new Rear carb 62cc engine... 35+lbs of thrust!!!