glennb2006

Hi Paul,

from what you have stated so far and the testing work you have done, I am once again leaning toward the problem you are having being the failsafe (not sure which one) acitvating and shutting your engine down.

To prove it there are a couple of things you can do:
Switch of the Fasst one to eliminate that.

1. Take the external failsafe off the model and try it to see what happens during hard right turns.
2. With the failsafe on the model, try it and if the model stops on hard rights, try a new battery pack. Then try again.

3. The third option, to be used with caution - set the throttle stop screw so the engine can not be stopped with the radio, it just goes to idle. If it is the radio / failsafe or something else closing the throttle to the stop position then this will mean your engine will go to idle not stop. Might be a useful test. As I said, please apply caution as you will not be able to stop your boat. As long as no people or other models are about when you do this it should be OK.

Glenn

stuarth

Guys just a thought......we have been discussing this on another thread!!!
Could your flex shaft not be binding and overloading and stalling your motor!! quite possible a torque on a right hand turn issue!
maybe Glenn can you out with the tech on this one!!
Just my 2 cents!!
Stu

glennb2006

Hi Paul,

just make sure there is around 1/4" clearance between end of strut or stinger drive and the prop. drive dog. Just to eliminate this as an issue.

Glenn

Paul M

The clearance between the dog and the strut was one of the first things I checked as well as whether the prop was hitting the rudder. Negative on both.

Glenn,

As much as I hate to do it, the only way to rule out the failsafe is see if it does it without it.

I tried the rudder grab test. VERY strange. I charged the battery all night (app 14 hours) plugged the throttle servo into the venom failsafe and it triggered immediately and the throttle servo would not budge from it's set position. When I removed it and just ran the FASST failsafe, no problem even when grabbing the rudder and holding it for like 15 secs in a full right turn with the throttle on full power (engine not running).

The confusing part is that the boat is doing the same thing whether the venom was used or the FASST. The throttle servo is not brand new (hitec) and buzzes some. I am thinking of buying a new std servo and a new pack as well. I already have a speedmaster throttle assembly coming. I have no use for the Bonzi throttle cable.

Deffinitely taking film for you guys this weekend

dicko

have you tried constantly moving the servos so they draw as much power as possible from the battery? keep holding the rudder to put some resistance on it & get a friend to move both throttle & stearing servo back & forth as fast as he/she can as long as they can & see if the battery drops power considerably. i know certain recievers will shut off if the servo's draw too much current, a fix to this is to wire a capacitor across the batter terminal on the reciever to retain power when the battery can't keep up. this doesn't explain the hard to start bit though.

Paul M

The actions that I performed were at least twice as much movement/force than is occurring when the boat is turning right (Full throttle and I was holding the rudder VERY firmly for at least 15 secs).

At the lake, the boat is cutting off in about 2 seconds at virtually any throttle setting between idle and 1/3 with the rudder turned probably 25%and up. IE I think the test well exceeded the conditions at the lake.

Removing the failsafe or adjusting the failsafe so that the engine simply throttles down but doesn't shut off should rule this out, shouldn't it?

I'll keep you posted

glennb2006

Hi Paul,

to eliminate radio / failsafe problems, my advice is to remove the failsafe and give it a run. Clearly, due care needs to be shown with regard to other users and the general public - ie make sure no one else is around just in case it all goes horribly wrong.

The other thing you can do, and it might pay to do this first, is to adjust the Zen. throttle stop screw to give fast idle and stop the radio from being able to shut off the engine. In the event that the failsafe activates, the engine should then go to idle on you and not stop.

Again, bear in mind you will not be able to stop your motor, so some planning on where you are going to retrieve the model from is needed and also due diligence on who and what else is on the water with you need to be shown.

It should narrow down your search for the fault.

w3bby

Coming in late on this thread, just had a quick look through and having not seen it anywhere (might have missed it) was wondering what voltage you have on your RX pack?

Paul M

Good plan Glenn.

6 volt pack, W3bby. But I have my suspicions about it being a good back although it is new.

Thanks

Paul M

Looks like we have the start to a resolution.

1) Ran with no failsafe - still died immediately in right turn

2) Removed velocity stack - much better. Still dies but not everytime.

I have video, but not sure how to post. Can somone help?

Big thanks to everyone who helped especially Brian (Bmad) who had the idea to remove the velocity stack.

glennb2006

Velocity stack?

Seems strange. Go on, give us a clue please..

Glenn

patriktegelberg

My ars, you saw it here first [:@].

Paul M

Sorry, Patrick. I'm running this question on 2 different forums and both are very long. Got mixed up. Thanks for the help.

It's definitely the water. The boat runs great in the straights and in the left turns and now most of the time in the rights. It was doing at least 50 today. I'm sure the carb is fine.

Yes, I have run it without the cowl as well and the same issue.

Today without the stack is the first time things have turned around. Did figure of eights for awhile and several right turn donuts before it died in a right turn.

warrgy69

My Feedback: (63)

If you removed the velocity stack and it runs better, maybe you had a loose or misaligned carb. Bad carb gasket sucking air?

Paul M

I had wondered the same thing. I'm going to try a couple things to rule out the water in the carb deal and then buy a new carb. Doing the cheap and easy stuff first.

Thanks

warrgy69

My Feedback: (63)

I have a 644 Walbro you could try to rule out the carb issue. It comes with the velocity stack from Zenoah so I don't know why it would have a performance issue from that. If this would help you out let me know and I would work a deal on the carb. Let me know if you need it.

Paul M

Thanks. Al at Toxic has been great through all this and I am quite sure that if a carb is necessary, I can get it from him. Before I introduce another variable into this mess, I am going to rule out water in carb first.

Thanks again for your offer and the ideas.