rmac160

I have be flying the 120 PC9 for over a year, with not one problem. I balanced it at the fuzz and with the RX battery in the rear and a 120AX in the front I add 42grams of lead to the rear. on landing the aproch MUST be low and as stated above it's a jet trainer and it comes in hot, love it

DVM100

Hi guys, sorry to report my PC-9 went "off air" the other day and she's totalled - engine too! I've bought another one (just can't stay away I guess) and this time I am going to go electric with her to see how she goes. I've just converted my Austars 96" Cessna 152 to electric, a CMPro Mosquito and a VQ P38 so the Pc-9 should go really well. I'll let you know. Dave

markodent

Dave,
Sorry to hear the bad news - your PC-9 looked awesome with the personal touches. I'm keen to get one as I've always liked it as a plane (only been in one once and had a ball). I have read about a few getting totalled, which is a bit disconcerting - was yours the result of a deadstick? seems like it isn't very forgiving if the power is out?
Out of interest, how did you find the gasser in terms of fit for the airframe? Also did the change of retract manage to get the front wheel fully up when retracted? Would be nice seeing it is such a good looking model.
Mark

DVM100

Hey Mark,

Thanks for the kind words. There was no deadstick, just a sudden change from level flight to vertical down from 200'. My best guess is the receiver was noty positioned properly - other than that I don't know. I had had many flights with her (too many to count), so I was very depressed about it. The 28MLD gasser fitted fine. All I needed was the correct stand-offs to clear the cowl and she was right to go. It did need weight in the tail to balance so I put the receiver and ignition packs back in the rear compartment (that needs strengthening by the way - the tray comes apart very easily). In order to get the nose gear to fully retract you will have to cut away some of the mounting so you can get the retract unit down low enough - might consider that when I put doors on her...

By the way, the new one has a 200Kv Turnigy motor on 10S Lipo...swwweeeettt!

gcshawkey

I am nearing completion of mine but have a few issues. The supplied retracts are not great ( bit sloppy ) but the real issue is the nose-wheel - it has no centering, so as the pull pull lines go slack as its retracting - the wheel flops about and fouls the aperture. Seagull just fob me off back to the distributors, but this is a design fault.
How have you guys ( who have not changed them out for alternatives ) got around this problem?
Its looking like mine will be around 11.5lbs in weight ( approx 5.2 Kilo ) and thats just with a single 5000mahr 6s lipo.
That includes the tailweight needed to balance. Ive also made the tail section removable for transport, so fitted both back end servos in this removable section too. This weight gives a very high wing loading of about 35 oz per square foot which in turn is gonna mean keeping the speed high at all times, I reckon the stall speed is way up there at about 30 MPH [X(]

robertp1h

HI GSC yes the nose wheel is problematic, I solved the slack cable problem by rubberbands attached to the sterering servo pulling appart some metal link arms to take up the slack when retracted. The bands were attached to each fus side.

Yes wing loading terrible i lost two of these in turn by wing tip stall induced as soon as the fan stopped. Doh!

Robert Knox

gcshawkey

Thanks Robert...I was considering some sort of spring arrangement as you mention - not on really, as this purely down to a design fault and we as end users should not have to figure and fix these sort of things. I know as modellers we tend to do so, but why oh why should we!
TBH despite it being a "nice" model, there are several other bad design features in this version - nosewheel sits WAY proud of wheel well when retracted, battery location for electric version is completely wrong as tail weight is needed despite siting it as far back as poss. COG positioning is dubious according to several others, the whole thing is too darn heavy, and the battery should live mid wing position, under the canopy which should have been made removable along with the cockpit floor etc. Grr.

robertp1h

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/air...20-ARTF__f21e/

see link above i can strongly recommend this one it flies a dream, and low speed landings on flaps, i used a EVO26 petrol, again a cross brace on the undercarriage is good for stength from grass but the wheeels have suspension too

Im on my second one of these too as after 22 inverted spins i should have stoped at 21

have fun

Robert Knox

Merlin Man

Hi All,
I have been assembling the PC9. It goes togrther very nicely.

I am however worried about the stall reports mentioned here and there on this thread. At 11lbs. the wing loading is 32lbs./sq.ft. This is high but not excessive. ( my ESM Spitfire is higher and so too was my Platt P51.with no sign of tipstall even when deadstick.)

I think the problem may be the lack of washout in the wing outer panels. A tappered wing without washout and with substantial wing loading is asking for tip stall !!

For those of you that have had the misfortune of stalling this model, could you describe the circumstances more ?. Did it tip stall immediately after going deadstick. ? Or later ? Did you try pushing the nose down to keep the speed up ?

I am thinking of doing some simplewing surgery to produce washout and would like to gather as much info on this problem as I can.

Many thanks,
Cheers
Merlin Man.

gcshawkey

Guess you meant 32 OUNCES - otherwise that's a brick you're describing

Merlin Man

Hi,

Yes, my mistake on the 31lbs !! It's heavy isn't it ! ! LOL.

Breaking news !................................ I have just used a laser incidence meter on the wing tips and this plane has........................... WASH IN. !! No wonder it stalls !! This is IMO, has to be the major reason for it's tip stalling..

Sure it has a high wing loading but it should be manageable ( as many others, mostly fighters) are .

I think the best idea ito make washout is as follows. My plan is to remove the covering from the underside of the last 6or so wingbays and then use a razor saw to cut 98% of the way through each rib. These cuts will nearly cut the ribs in half vertically behind the spars. I will try to leace the ribs intact right at the upper surface of the top spar so as not to disturb the covering on the upper wing surface..These cuts should free up the wingstructure enough to allow a slight twist to be imparted and thus provide washout. This can be pinned to a jig while the ribsre glued in their ( slightly)new positions.. Some recovering of the lower affected panels will finish the job. ( I hope ?! ).

If you know of another (s) way of doing this , I would love to hear from you.

Cheers,
MERLIN MAN.

gcshawkey

look forward to the pictures of the mod mate

Anderl7890

Hi guys

Mi very simple solution to any stall problem: Keep weight as low as possible!
Therefore is deceided to install a geared motor solution with just an 6S battery driving a 17X14" prop.
The complete propulsion system including motor, gear, battery, ESC and prop weights only 2.65lb
Not trusting in the mechanical solution iinstalled a robart 510 series retract.

The only problem i have: The canopy does notnot fit. I have a gap of half an inch on each side ofthe canopy.
I already reworked the fuselage side atthe canopy section but therestill is a gab of about 1/4"on each side
between canopy and fuse.
I don't know how to get a good fit, which really lowers my anticipation about that model.

regards

Andi

Anderl7890

Here's my motor and gear. Together 0.7lbs.

Merlin Man

Hi All,

Anderl,
I notice you have removed some of the film covering from the fuse. Are you refinishing this model ?

The canopy fits well in the stock configuration. Have you changed that ? Just Interested.

Cheers
Merlin Man.

Anderl7890

Hi

I removed the top covering to fill and sand the canopy area.
The canopy didn't fit at all.Out of the box there was a 1/2" gap on each side.
I reworked, filled and sanded this area. Now it's ok, but this is not what i would
call ARTF.
Myabemykit was an exeption in quality. Unfortunately a bad exeption.
I also found several joints on the fuse without any glue.

I also have to refurbish the ailerons. They are too thin.

Regards

Anderl

Merlin Man

Hi ,
Wow, that's a large mismatch on the canopy ! ( the fit onmine was excellent. ? )

I just wonder if your kit got the canopy designed for the smaller 60"ish version ??

Anyway, good flying with your model.

Cheers,
M.M.

Merlin Man

Hi All,

Maidened my PC9 today. What an experience!

Enough to say that I got it back in one piece . It is very fast and the landing was hot, but without drama apart from nearly running out of runway !

It definetly need flaps or a speed brake for landing .
\
It flew well though and I am looking forward to really wringing it out in futture flight when I get used to it..

Cheers,
Merlin Man.

gcshawkey

maidened mine a couple of months back - and it flew beautifully - COG 85mm @ root from L/E. Power was more than plenty ( 2.1kW ) on a 14 x 10 E prop.
On second flight half an hour later, I lost the bird - total write off except the tail area ( which I had made removable for transport ). Problem was traced to a main 4mm bullet connector on the ESC input unsoldered... maybe a dry joint, air pocket, or simply overheated and unsoldered ( I had an eagle tree logger onboard - it was pulling 90+A )
The 5A UBEC was wired to the ESC input also, so lost power AND radio at the top of a big loop.
Loved it so much, have got another and halfway through doing her.
Sorted the nosewheel steering by using expansion springs on the tiller - they stretch as the leg drops, and keep the whoile lot straight - seemed to work fine on the first model.
Only thing different with the replacement is that I am using 6MM non-caged gold connectors, triple checking my soldering, and will be fitting a power back up unit which switches in an aux 4 cell niMh pack in the event of the UBEC failing.

Merlin Man

Hi .

Yes, they do fly very well don't they. I am very impressed with the models aerobatic capabilities. The slow roll is very axial with little rudder and elevator input needed.

Gcshawkey, could you provide some close ups of your nosewheel setup please? I have a spring arrangement but it is far from ideal and this remains the biggest disappointment with the model.

Many Thanks,
Merlin Man.

gcshawkey

Hope this helps. I am disappointed ( but not overly surprised ) that both the UK importers (Perkins ) and the manufacturers have, despite promising me other wise, ignored this issue. My system is not ideal but did seem to work well enough, albeit not for long due to the early demise of th model. I am using the exact same method on the replacement which is almost complete.

gcshawkey

I also modded the nosewheel mounting blocks to put the frame at an angle in order to get the wheel to tuck up closer into the wheel well, as if left stock, a LOT of wheel hangs down when retracted, which looks IMO naff.
First pic shows it stock, second is after mod.
Its not helped by the rather poor and sloppy retract unit itself, and I havent ruled out spending a few more pounds on replacement units maybe the large E-flite servoless electric units, or perhaps some good 'ol springairs.
I also made removable tail section to enable it to fit in my car - fitted rudder and el servos in the aft section, and used threaded inserts and nylon bolts to lock the tail section down. 2 minute job to fit /release.

Merlin Man

Hi,

Thank you for your quick reply. I had thought of this too ( the noseweheel and the angling of the blocks ) but failed to do either !!

I will try again.

Cheers MM.

gcshawkey

You could retro fit. I drilled holes of varying depths into the hardwood bearers, approx 3/8th" deep at the rear, reducing down to almost 1/16th or so at the front. Then I "hacked" away at the remaining wood with a dremel until the two surfaces were roughly flat. I then bedded the retract unit onto a layer of epoxy and microballons spread onto the bearers, to ensure the frame did not distort as the screws were tightened.

Merlin Man

Hi,

Some photos of my PC9. I decided to replace the kit provided pilots as they are too large. I got some Aces Of Iron pilots that are 1/5 scale.

The model is a mixture of 1/6( wing ) and 1/5 ( fuse ) roughly . The photo of the full size shows the correct pilot size.

P.S. One of the Roulettes PC9 had an engine failure just after take off recently. Both Instructor and trainee instructor ejected at low level and are ok.
The planes have been all grounded while investigations are conducted.

Cheers,
Merlin Man.