Nother 27% CA 300L Build
11-24-2005, 10:14 AM
#51
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Thanks Eric,
I can't wait to get the engine. I put a deposit down on one and will have it mid December. From the other posts on Taurus, this seems to be an excellent engine. Thanks for the info on the reciever batteries. I have used just one in the past, but was thinking of redundancy. I don't want a bad switch to cause another devistating loss. The switches are by biggest concern, so I'll use two. I am hooked on the 6v reciever batteries for these digital servos. Makes a big differance in performance "IMO". I think Lithium Ion's would be the best, but I cant get set up with them at the moment due to added costs. I've been eyeballing Fromecos for about a year now.
You have a happy turky day too. I'm going to "Stuff", "Roll to Couch", and FOOTBALL!!
Steve
I can't wait to get the engine. I put a deposit down on one and will have it mid December. From the other posts on Taurus, this seems to be an excellent engine. Thanks for the info on the reciever batteries. I have used just one in the past, but was thinking of redundancy. I don't want a bad switch to cause another devistating loss. The switches are by biggest concern, so I'll use two. I am hooked on the 6v reciever batteries for these digital servos. Makes a big differance in performance "IMO". I think Lithium Ion's would be the best, but I cant get set up with them at the moment due to added costs. I've been eyeballing Fromecos for about a year now.
You have a happy turky day too. I'm going to "Stuff", "Roll to Couch", and FOOTBALL!!
Steve
11-24-2005, 10:26 AM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve,
I was just wondering are you going to put a servo for choke on throttle?
And do you really need it?
Did you hear anything about midwest extra 300XS?? Which one is better, CA or Midwest?
Thanks
I was just wondering are you going to put a servo for choke on throttle?
And do you really need it?
Did you hear anything about midwest extra 300XS?? Which one is better, CA or Midwest?
Thanks
11-24-2005, 11:29 AM
#53
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
I have used a Sulivan Golden Rod with a knob screwed in to the end and poked out the side of the fuse for the choke before and it works very well. I will just hang a piece of wire off the choke horn on this one and run it out the bottom. Thats easy and effective. I do use the choke every time I start a gas engine. Choke on, full throtle, flip until it pops, choke off, low throtle, flip and they start right away .
The Midwest kit is a heavier plane than the CA. The CA is designed for 3D as well as pattern flying. Just depends on the flying you want to do. You can lighten up the Midwest kit, but you have to elarge the controle surfaces if you want extreem 3D. I personally think the CA is a more capable plane for 3D and IMAC. It ranks with Carden and Aero Works in my book.
Steve
.The Midwest kit is a heavier plane than the CA. The CA is designed for 3D as well as pattern flying. Just depends on the flying you want to do. You can lighten up the Midwest kit, but you have to elarge the controle surfaces if you want extreem 3D. I personally think the CA is a more capable plane for 3D and IMAC. It ranks with Carden and Aero Works in my book.
Steve
11-24-2005, 11:38 AM
#54
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Futaba 9202's on ailerons and elevators, big digital on rudder. Single 1400mh NIMH on receiver and 1200 on ignition. Doesn't need much more as I don't fly it more then 6 flights a day.
11-24-2005, 12:00 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve:
I have the Fromeco Li-ion setup on my 31%. Love it. They have a package with a 4800 for the rx and a 2400 for the ignition along w/ 2 regulators for like $160. I would not worry about running dual rx batteries on this size plane. Just make sure to use a good switch. The JR heavy duty charge switch is probably considered the standard for relaibility. I think most battery problems can be caught if people would check their batteries before every flight. I caught a bad cell in a pack (ni-cad) a while ago just prior to my 2nd flight of the day. Since then I check every flight - it's worth the 10 seconds.
PS- your 27% is looking great!
I have the Fromeco Li-ion setup on my 31%. Love it. They have a package with a 4800 for the rx and a 2400 for the ignition along w/ 2 regulators for like $160. I would not worry about running dual rx batteries on this size plane. Just make sure to use a good switch. The JR heavy duty charge switch is probably considered the standard for relaibility. I think most battery problems can be caught if people would check their batteries before every flight. I caught a bad cell in a pack (ni-cad) a while ago just prior to my 2nd flight of the day. Since then I check every flight - it's worth the 10 seconds.
PS- your 27% is looking great!
11-24-2005, 12:54 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Futaba micro switch on ignition and MPI or futaba heavy duty on Receiver (can't remember). Heck I used micro on all my installs up until this one without problem...I changed just due to the Digital rudder servo, otherwise I would have stuck with the Micro Switch on the receiver also.
11-25-2005, 10:13 AM
#58
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
ual767,
That is the setup I was looking at a while back. I would need the charger and 8 ball also. Have you had any Li-ion's go bad yet? I know a couple of people that have had some Li-poly's go bad.
Scott,
I've had two crashes due to standard switch failures. I now normally use the JR HD or the Hitec HD switch. I like the JR because it comes with a charge jack, though its some times hard to find a place for it.
Haven't done anything on the plane the last few days, but I'll get back on it this weekend.
Steve
That is the setup I was looking at a while back. I would need the charger and 8 ball also. Have you had any Li-ion's go bad yet? I know a couple of people that have had some Li-poly's go bad.
Scott,
I've had two crashes due to standard switch failures. I now normally use the JR HD or the Hitec HD switch. I like the JR because it comes with a charge jack, though its some times hard to find a place for it.
Haven't done anything on the plane the last few days, but I'll get back on it this weekend.
Steve
11-25-2005, 01:59 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve,
30 yrs and counting without a switch failure of any type. (wood quick) And when I say 30yrs I mean heavy flying with only one radio failure to boot.. Still have some futabas from the 80's that I could use.
I think (not saying you) but alot is placed on radios when in fact something else happened. If a plane crashes all stuff such as batteries and switches go to the trash (doesn't happen much) recievers and servos get checked thoroghly in multiple airplanes prior to going into a good model.
But anyhow nothing hurts with going heavy duty especially with a switch (minor).
Have fun with it they fly great.
30 yrs and counting without a switch failure of any type. (wood quick) And when I say 30yrs I mean heavy flying with only one radio failure to boot.. Still have some futabas from the 80's that I could use.
I think (not saying you) but alot is placed on radios when in fact something else happened. If a plane crashes all stuff such as batteries and switches go to the trash (doesn't happen much) recievers and servos get checked thoroghly in multiple airplanes prior to going into a good model.
But anyhow nothing hurts with going heavy duty especially with a switch (minor).
Have fun with it they fly great.
11-25-2005, 06:58 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve:
I have not been using the li-ions for more than 1/2 a season, and have not had any issues yet. I know that the Li-ion and li-poly batts do not like to be cycled deeply. It seems like the guys who get the best life from a battery do not let them get too far down before charging them again. They also don't like a lot of heat. Also, both the 4800 rx pack and the 2400 ign pack would be plenty for your plane. The "easier" you are on the batts the longer they will last. Even if you pull 5amps from the rx battery (unlikely), thats barely 1C and no problem for the battery. I use the Fromeco charger too and it works fine, but I would like a little more info as to how much went in the battery during the charge. The nice thing is youcan charge the rx and ign li-ions at the same time.
I have not been using the li-ions for more than 1/2 a season, and have not had any issues yet. I know that the Li-ion and li-poly batts do not like to be cycled deeply. It seems like the guys who get the best life from a battery do not let them get too far down before charging them again. They also don't like a lot of heat. Also, both the 4800 rx pack and the 2400 ign pack would be plenty for your plane. The "easier" you are on the batts the longer they will last. Even if you pull 5amps from the rx battery (unlikely), thats barely 1C and no problem for the battery. I use the Fromeco charger too and it works fine, but I would like a little more info as to how much went in the battery during the charge. The nice thing is youcan charge the rx and ign li-ions at the same time.
11-26-2005, 10:55 AM
#61
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Yea, I still have questions about Li-ion's before I can justify the extra cash to get setup on the new battery tech. I have a charge and cycle station for Nicads I've built up over the years and have a lot invested in that and it keeps my batteries fresh and good for many many years.
I worked on the plane last night and I'll post some more photos soon. It always takes me a while to get the wings and stab set.
I worked on the plane last night and I'll post some more photos soon. It always takes me a while to get the wings and stab set.
11-26-2005, 09:34 PM
#62
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
After I set the stab at 0 incendence with the fuse, I glued the ply wing rib to the wing and installed the anti-rotation dowls. I drill the rear one first, when the wing is at 0 incendence. Once its set I drill the front dowl. Once the wings are set, I glued the stab in and also glued the fin on. Now that I was able to set the rudder in place, I finished cutting the elevators to clear the rudder controle horn. I also final sanded the tapers for the desired throw. Then I capped the foam end on the elevators.
11-27-2005, 04:54 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Are the spots for the wing tube already in place or do you have to do it?Is there a place online where i can download a builing manual?Or some more information on what it take to build this kit?
?
?
11-27-2005, 05:01 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve:
On my 31% I did not like the idea of having just wood dowels for the anti rotation pins, so I took a piece of brass tubing the size of the pin hole in the fuselage and made little sleeves that I epoxied around the dowels in the wing. (They go around the dowel and into the root rib) Of course you need to slightly sand the dowels to make them smaller so they will fit inside the brass sleeve. I am just not comfortable with a wood pin that will eventually wear and get sloppy due to the vibration of a gasser.
On my 31% I did not like the idea of having just wood dowels for the anti rotation pins, so I took a piece of brass tubing the size of the pin hole in the fuselage and made little sleeves that I epoxied around the dowels in the wing. (They go around the dowel and into the root rib) Of course you need to slightly sand the dowels to make them smaller so they will fit inside the brass sleeve. I am just not comfortable with a wood pin that will eventually wear and get sloppy due to the vibration of a gasser.
11-28-2005, 12:47 PM
#67
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Thanks for the advise on the anti-rotation pins. I may do some thing similar.
Thanks for the comments Scott. I think I'm getting a little better after 15 years at it.
outlaw, I believe the Aero Works site has the on line instructions. All you have to do is slide the wing tube in and glue it. You just have to make sure it goes past the plywood support in the wing at the outer end of the wing tube. Some times it takes a little finness.
Eric, GET THAT YAK COVERED!!!
Thanks for the comments Scott
. I think I'm getting a little better after 15 years at it. outlaw, I believe the Aero Works site has the on line instructions. All you have to do is slide the wing tube in and glue it. You just have to make sure it goes past the plywood support in the wing at the outer end of the wing tube. Some times it takes a little finness.
Eric, GET THAT YAK COVERED!!!
11-29-2005, 01:57 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Was the hole for the wing tube already drilled or do you have to melt that out as well? If you had to do it how was it done, I want one of these kits but i dont like the idea of having to try to melt out the foam myself for the wing tube.
11-29-2005, 05:49 PM
#72
RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
The holes for the wing tube are already in the foam cores. You just have to slide the phenolic tube in and glue it. The holes for the servo extentions are also in the wing core already and the wings are pre-sheeted also.
I installed the hard points for the wing screws to hold the wings on. I used 6/32 X 2" screws.
I installed the hard points for the wing screws to hold the wings on. I used 6/32 X 2" screws.
11-29-2005, 10:43 PM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
Steve, please do not use the dubro servo arm setup you have pictured. The ailerons on this airpane are rather large and the way you have it setup with the ball link and the arm length you are likely to have a flutter problem. The Dubro arms do tend to flex. I have seen two otherwise nice ailpanes lost because of this.
Shawn Berkheimer
R/C Blimp Productions.com
Shawn Berkheimer
R/C Blimp Productions.com
11-30-2005, 11:09 AM
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RE: Nother 27% CA 300L Build
I like the SWB and the Airwild arms. The Airwild arms will work great for your application and cost less than the SWB however the SWB are more accurate. When I was matching up the servos for my ailerons I had one of the four that was a few degrees off. I tried several of the SWB arms thinking that one may sit in the right position. No way!! All 6 arms I had were identical.
Shawn Berkheimer
R/C Blimp Productions
Shawn Berkheimer
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