LRP .32!!
#52
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RE: LRP .32!!
ORIGINAL: srt10
no matter what % nitro I use I retune to performance and then temps
anytime we change Nitro % we need to retune..
more nitro means a tad richer on the needle
245-265* is usually my max depending on motor
ORIGINAL: ausrcnut
Maybe with the LRP engines, but I get the opposite (non LRP engine) my temps shoot through the roof. I guess that it will depend on the oil content as well, this might have an adverse affect on the temps if the oil is not proportioned to the increased nitro. What fuel do you use?
Maybe with the LRP engines, but I get the opposite (non LRP engine) my temps shoot through the roof. I guess that it will depend on the oil content as well, this might have an adverse affect on the temps if the oil is not proportioned to the increased nitro. What fuel do you use?
anytime we change Nitro % we need to retune..
more nitro means a tad richer on the needle
245-265* is usually my max depending on motor
your increased engine temp was probably a result of incorrect tune, i have been there, when i started running 30 percent my glow plugs would last one run.
#53
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RE: LRP .32!!
There is still a higher wear factor though associated with high nitro content is there not? Or is that just cause of the fine tuning window and plug choice that they fry their engines...? And what about needing to shim the head etc? And what about bearing failure due to promotion of H2O moisture with the nitro being hygroscopic etc? If I was running 30% again, I'd definitely choose a fuel with a higher oil content at least. And I dont race, so dont need the last bit of power rung out of it.
#54
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RE: LRP .32!!
higher oil content can increase engine temps also. any time you increase power the trade off is definately shorter engine life, how much probably depends on your tuning ability. i have hit 350 degrees before and that engine still runs in a buddies truggy,allthough she might be a little weaker ....lol. After run oil will prevent moisture.
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RE: LRP .32!!
I run 30% all the time... my motors have lots of fuel throught them and my temps stay very nice..
The argument that higher Nitro jacks a motor?
Well I don't believe that at all...
If you ever get to a boat race you will see most of the guys racing use 60-65% nitro and there motors can last several seasons of hard racing...
Its all in the tune and care of the motor..
The argument that higher Nitro jacks a motor?
Well I don't believe that at all...
If you ever get to a boat race you will see most of the guys racing use 60-65% nitro and there motors can last several seasons of hard racing...
Its all in the tune and care of the motor..
#56
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RE: LRP .32!!
Fair enough. Sheesh... I never knew you could get that higher nitro content. They much have some serious timing changes done for that spec..!! :-D Yeah, Im not supporting an argument, Im just looking for answers and the facts to educate myself on the topic. I guess that installing a cold plug in higher nitro changes the timing to a degree as well to better suit the new running parametres.
#60
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RE: LRP .32!!
Lower nitro narrows the tuning window, increases temperature and usually increases wear.............so many myths out there about nitro content ! LOL
More nitro means the engine can be run on a richer mixture...which means more oil flowing thru the engine...... On lower nitro the engine usually has to be tuned very lean to make any power, on higher nitro the engine will make good power on a much richer mixture......... because of this a person will find the tune easier to find on higher nitro.........
oil quantity and quality plays a huge role in how a engine will run...........
IMO 30% nitro/10% oil is the perfect blend and what most should aim for............
More nitro means the engine can be run on a richer mixture...which means more oil flowing thru the engine...... On lower nitro the engine usually has to be tuned very lean to make any power, on higher nitro the engine will make good power on a much richer mixture......... because of this a person will find the tune easier to find on higher nitro.........
oil quantity and quality plays a huge role in how a engine will run...........
IMO 30% nitro/10% oil is the perfect blend and what most should aim for............
#61
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I ended up buying the LRP.32 and an Ofna Force.32
Once I dig them out of storage I will install the Force.32 in the XL and the LRP.32 in the MGT.
And then..... bash bash bash..!!!
Once I dig them out of storage I will install the Force.32 in the XL and the LRP.32 in the MGT.
And then..... bash bash bash..!!!
#64
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Well, how is it?
I was frankly very happy with the Dynamite Big Red .28 and Losi 454 in my two LST2's, but then I went and put in an LRP ZR.30X with the pullstart backplate and Spinstart cover, and WOW... it's even better. That engine in the LST2 is MT bashing bliss.. Really awesome - way more fun than my brushless MT4 G3...
But...., last time out some kid turned on his radio and mixed up the signals, sending my LST2 at WOT 100yds off into the bushes, where it rolled over and screamed and screamed for way too long to have been healthy.. The rod didn't break, and the compression is still there, but I may need another one..
So how's the .32? Does it have any top end at all?
I've been running my stock 40mhz radio in my LST2 for seven years and never had a problem. This past time was kind of my fault, because I didn't go check around like I usually do.. Over the years more and more people just look at me weird when I ask if anybody is running 40mhz.. But on this day there were a bunch of newbs with cheapo little RC's...
Picco seems nonexistent these days, with the Boost rarely available and frankly a bit pricey..
I was frankly very happy with the Dynamite Big Red .28 and Losi 454 in my two LST2's, but then I went and put in an LRP ZR.30X with the pullstart backplate and Spinstart cover, and WOW... it's even better. That engine in the LST2 is MT bashing bliss.. Really awesome - way more fun than my brushless MT4 G3...
But...., last time out some kid turned on his radio and mixed up the signals, sending my LST2 at WOT 100yds off into the bushes, where it rolled over and screamed and screamed for way too long to have been healthy.. The rod didn't break, and the compression is still there, but I may need another one..
So how's the .32? Does it have any top end at all?
I've been running my stock 40mhz radio in my LST2 for seven years and never had a problem. This past time was kind of my fault, because I didn't go check around like I usually do.. Over the years more and more people just look at me weird when I ask if anybody is running 40mhz.. But on this day there were a bunch of newbs with cheapo little RC's...
Picco seems nonexistent these days, with the Boost rarely available and frankly a bit pricey..
#65
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G'day mate, Yeah, .32LRP is awesome. It's not even properly run in or leaned out yet and has masses of power. I love it..!! It absolutely cr@ps all over the K5.9, and yeah, plenty of top-end. I think they go to around 32,000rpm, which is heaps for bashing. Even for racing, it is so responsive, very clean and snappy. So if the vehicle was light, you could gear the ratios taller and still have great performance as you are pretty well using the torque. It was the best engine selection for the truck i think, it just flings the truck away in the air like it's a POS. Burnouts and donuts so easily. Yeah, I LOVE it.
Only issue now is that the XL is in the "pits" again due to the need of a new steering servo. So i have not done much to it since. I have been grossly involved with my full-sized vehicle, as I had to trade it in for something with a stronger chassis for towing purposes. It's such a shame as I totally miss my truck already as I spent huge on it, (raised suspension, 33" tyres, chip, bullbar, winch etc) and had to sell it. I traded to a Toyota 76 Series Land Cruiser which has a stronger chassis and a 4.5L turbo-diesel V8. It's a tiny truck compared to what you guys have in the USA. I really wanted a Ford F250, but Australian fuel prices are equivalent to around $6.50 per gallon..!!! So a 7.3L Powerstroke V8 would not have made owning it very affordable at all. I do hear though that the US will be brining in the full line of Chevrolet to Australia by 2017, so I might end up buying that GMC HD2500 6.6 Duramax afterall, if prices are okay. At present any US pickup in Australia costs $140,000 to buy new and the 2004 F250 was still at $70,000..!! So not fair, us Aussies we get shat on all the time. All we have is the Asian market who CANNOT build pickups or tow vehicles for quids..!!
Anyhow, I'll keep my fingers crossed someday. Hope all you guys are having a blast and been ripping it up in one way or another..!!!
Only issue now is that the XL is in the "pits" again due to the need of a new steering servo. So i have not done much to it since. I have been grossly involved with my full-sized vehicle, as I had to trade it in for something with a stronger chassis for towing purposes. It's such a shame as I totally miss my truck already as I spent huge on it, (raised suspension, 33" tyres, chip, bullbar, winch etc) and had to sell it. I traded to a Toyota 76 Series Land Cruiser which has a stronger chassis and a 4.5L turbo-diesel V8. It's a tiny truck compared to what you guys have in the USA. I really wanted a Ford F250, but Australian fuel prices are equivalent to around $6.50 per gallon..!!! So a 7.3L Powerstroke V8 would not have made owning it very affordable at all. I do hear though that the US will be brining in the full line of Chevrolet to Australia by 2017, so I might end up buying that GMC HD2500 6.6 Duramax afterall, if prices are okay. At present any US pickup in Australia costs $140,000 to buy new and the 2004 F250 was still at $70,000..!! So not fair, us Aussies we get shat on all the time. All we have is the Asian market who CANNOT build pickups or tow vehicles for quids..!!
Anyhow, I'll keep my fingers crossed someday. Hope all you guys are having a blast and been ripping it up in one way or another..!!!
#66
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Thread Starter
I just bought a car with a 1.5L diesel, which gets nearly 40mpg(5.5L/100km) - AND has lots of space for RC stuff... Not the coolest, but the super low diesel cost is awesome compared to our other petrol car.. A tank goes about twice as far/I have to go to the gas station half as often... Awesome awesome awesome...
Anyway, I can still get the .30 cheaper than the .32, but I guess I'll keep an eye out for a deal on one... And maybe scour for some videos...
Anyway, I can still get the .30 cheaper than the .32, but I guess I'll keep an eye out for a deal on one... And maybe scour for some videos...
#69
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HerrSavage: I have the Dynamite Big Red .28 on my LST2 and was looking to upgrade to the LRP ZR.30X or the .32. Do you know if the backplate from the Big Red fits the LRP ZR.30X?
Does anyone know if the LRP .30 and .32 use the same backplate?
Thanks, Andrew
Does anyone know if the LRP .30 and .32 use the same backplate?
Thanks, Andrew
#70
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AFAIK, NO..., the backplate will not fit. You need the backplate from the pullstart version of the LRP 30 (called the Spec 2 I think..)
When you have the backplate installed, you can then use the pullstart/Spinstart "backplate" on top of that.*
* I've never been sure about the correct terminology to distinguish between the actual backplate that closes the back of the engine, and the second little backplate type thing that has a pullstart, Rotostart, Spinstart, or whatever...
When you have the backplate installed, you can then use the pullstart/Spinstart "backplate" on top of that.*
* I've never been sure about the correct terminology to distinguish between the actual backplate that closes the back of the engine, and the second little backplate type thing that has a pullstart, Rotostart, Spinstart, or whatever...
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#75
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