the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
#52
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
sry can't find the true specs to it but they have the same rpm range as a nova rossi and pumps out more than 1 hp i think its 1.6 not really sure and it uses a turbo glow plug and is racing legal
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
sry but looking at ur it has 5 ports rules state that u can only use 3 port for 1/10th sacale sry if u plan to race offically
#54
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
How would they ever be able to tell the difference? The 3-port engine looks almost identical. Do they tear them apart and tech them at big races?
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
wow pretty low.....so that puts you at how much preload?.....I'm running box stock right now ( I havent even ran the car yet though). I think stock is 5mm on front and 3mm on rear..
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
3mm wow thats the thickness of ur alum chassi thats how close and the 4-6 thing well i jus measured with my fingures so its rough estimate
#61
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
Well I'm talking about the preload itsself...I have 5mm of preload in the front....and 3mm in the rear....you should be able to check your ride height and your preload by using the handy little gauge they sent with the kit. Not the actual ride height.....I'm running around 7mm ride height*** in the front......and who knows what in the rear because I have yet to receive my engine to set the rear....
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
wow luky me i got my engine and when u have the chance next time show some pics with ur engine on with ur crappy digital camera
#64
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
you guy,s may notice that the brakes may sometimes stick on the r-40, if this occurs on your car, you will need to put an aditional clevis on the brake pushrod,take a look at my picks on the first page to see what i mean.
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
I routed mine in front of the gas tank...and through the receiver cover hole....I tied the excess wire up neatly where the transponder holder is....through one of the small holes with a wire tie. I'll snap a pic of it real quick.
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
Sorry I couldnt get my piece of crap digital cam to work tonight...here are some really low quality pics though. I'll take some more when I get a higher quality cam.
#69
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
well, i thought i pretty much had figured out the cyntax clutch, but i am stumped. every time i run it, the clutch bell gets loose. have any of you guys used digital calipers to adjust your clutch? i don't want that hasle. is there a way to use a regular clutchbell and shoes?
#70
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
I just finished putting my engine in. The only reason I can guess that your clutchbell would be loosening up is because the screw that threads into the end of the crank shaft is vibrating loose...
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
that screw loosened up, and mangled the small flanged bearing. but, i have never experienced that screw loosening up before, and the clutchbell would always get wobbly
#72
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
It comes with shims. Shim the excess play outt've it. You only want 0.2mm-0.5mm of freeplay when the screw is tightened all the way down.
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
I've only seen one bearing go bad in the clutch, and he's running a Sirio, 1.6 HP. I'm still running an HPI 12 rxs(1.35 HP). I still have the better laps times, but when his driving skills catch up to mine, he'll have a faster car... Not sure, but it seems a motor that powerful can tear things up if the tolerences are off. Like the guy said before, the shims are used to nearly eleminate play. Did you use thread lock? At 38k + rpms, it's no wonder something could rattle loose...
#75
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RE: the OFFICIAL R-40 thread !
Time to break in my engine. Wish me luck... this sirio is screaming tight at TDC and the manual sucks for it. I'll probably be back later with questions regarding the centax clutch.