RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Actually he has offered to help you, and so have I until I realized your agenda. You have contradicted yourself too many times.

If you don't believe myself or SS that 90+% of engine problems are user related, ask some of the people here that do repairs and have been in the hobby for as many or more years.
Read ALL the threads about that wonderful engine your friend burned up and then talk to me.
There is no need to bash any manufacturer by your standards, because there would not be one good one out there for you.
Would I buy that engine your friend had problems with? You bet, if I had an application for it.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

HNPower,

I am not a rep for anyone. I don't have the time and it doesn't pay anywhere close to what I make, nor could I afford a 60-75% cut in wages to be a rep. I try to tell the truth the way I see it, and that often carries some "pain" for a few. Some can handle the truth and deal with it effectively, others can't because they have been the "victims of society" for far too long and have not accepted the responsibility for their own actions since they left their parents warm and cuddly abode.

If I had just obtained a "learners permit" to drive a car and immediately went out and bought a Ferrari when my ability dictated a station wagon, then it could reasonably be presumed that there was a hell of a crash in the making, and that it would happen very, very soon. Both cars are engineered quite well for the application and the operator that would normally be using it, but I would have chosen poorly based upon my ability level. Is that Ferrari's fault? There's no rule or regulation that they have to maintain a user standard of ability, is there?

The same holds true for most of the higher performing engines out there. The ones with the highest output, regardless of manufacturer, will be the most fussy in their manner of operation. You just can't obtain the higher performance levels and lighter weights without a sacrifice somewhere. If you wanted to produce an "everybody" engine then it would perform just like all the other "everybody" engines. Where's the benefit or market share in that?

The DA 50 story is a perfect example of what I am talking about. Ignoring the early materials issues that have been all but eliminated, many of the purchasers either jumped from flying .46 sized planes or had never flown a plane before at all. So they jump right on the high performance, light weight band wagon and proceed to absolutely destroy a very large percentage of the engines sold. Fortunately for them the manufacturer had, and has, a strong desire to dominate the gas engine market or they would be out a lot of pocket change in repairs. Now the same does not hold true in the 150cc and up class for a couple of reasons. One is that most of these people have a few years of R/C operations under their belts and have a true understanding of what they are doing, and the other is that most have more disposable income. The higher disposable income part usually brings a couple of things along with it. Generally a more professional outlook and the maturity that permits acceptance for the results of their own actions.

It's not possible for any manufacturer of any product to design it in such a manner that it becomes invincible. If they did that product would not be user friendly if for nothing else becuse no one would be strong enough to lift or move it. The best you can do is design and produce a product aimed at a specific market. If some that don't have the required qualifications to use that product, and make the decision to use that product prior to obtaining the required understanding or qualifications needed, whose fault is it if and when they err and break the product? Note that I have not been specific to any manufacturer or product here, nor have I directed this at any individual or one person.

Yes, there have been posts from a few people that have burnt up a BME twin. There may have been a lot of posts, but there have actually been relatively few people overall. Is DA better because they will give you a freebie when you break it? For the owner of the engine I suppose it is, but not for the manufacturer. Lesson learned; you can do anything you want and and you'll get a new engine for free. If someone buys something from me and fails to maintain it properly, therefore destroying the product, I will be happy to sell them a new one or repair the old one for a fee. If you want another one for free, call someone else.

I'm going to be direct here and say something that some won't like, but the truth is the truth. If you don't know what you're doing, either don't do it or get some help from someone who does know. Cheaper in the long run for everyone and a little education is passed along in the process that way.

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

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Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

What a deal! Pleased to meet you. The invitation stands to come out and fly someday. I promise that you'll have fun if you do. That's the only reason we go out and do this crazy, expensive stuff

BTW Bill, I can screw up my Windows equipped computer all day long whenever I try to do something the program doesn't like. Can I have a new one to replace it please. I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist it.

bobswika

Hello Everyone,

I have had the 110 extreme for about a year now. At the end of the flying season mine started running on one cylinder. Turned out to be the ignition, one of the caps was loose. Anyway my question is, right from the beginning the engine was great as far as flying both at lowend and high end power and it still is. My only problem that I have never been able to sort out is it loads up on idle. I don't mean just sitting there letting it run, this is while I'm taxing out to the runway. I always have to have someone hold it so I can throtle up and clear it out before taking off. Can anyone please give me an idea what might be wrong or how to eliminate this. Thanks in advance.

Bob

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

I believed that's a sign of being rich at low end. I have the same problem too that's why I tried to lean it in a bit and that's when the engine got cooked. If I were you, I just live with it.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

bobswika- Try leaning your low end needle just 1/16 at a time. Don't forget that the low needle also feeds at WOT so it can affect the high end too.

This is what HNPOWER failed to take into account. You lean the low needle you are also leaning the high end mixture. There for if you are already on the edge of lean on the top, you will now cross that line. Sometimes you have to richen the high when you lean the low. Experience is a good teacher.

bobswika

Might be, I definetly don't want to cook it but it does bother me. I have been playing with it for almost a year now, and have been lucky enough to not cook it I guess, but would still love to get it right if I could. I am the only one in my club flying BME and also the only one with this problem. I still love the engine. Does anyone flying the 110 not have this problem. Thanks a lot,

Bob

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Re-read my previous post. Needles are made to be adjusted!!! They can not be set once for every temperature, altitude, humidity, prop and airframe. If you do not know what you are doing find help or you will do damage. This Goes For Any Engine, Period.

To answer your question, I do not have this problem because I have adjusted my needles correctly and have baffled my engine adequately.

The low needle affects the high needle. Every time you change the low it WILL have some affect on the high, but not the other way around. It is a balancing act that has to be learned through trial and error sometimes.
It is always good to ask some one if you are not sure. Make sure it is someone that knows what he/she is doing and not just the local expert. I know a couple of self claimed experts that I would not trust.

bobswika

This needle has been adjusted for more than a year and I have not done any harm to it!!! I do know what I am doing, been doing it for 30yrs and this is the first engine, I should say first gas engine, I have had trouble with. Actually I help many people in my club adjust their engines which is why I can not beleive I am having this much trouble getting it to not load up, otherwise it runs great.

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

I already know that when you adjust the low needle you must also adjust the high needle too. I just assume that everyone knows this. This applies to all engines, not just gasoline. I just didn't bother with so many words. This procedure is written in all manual that comes with all engines.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

bobswika-- I did not know what your experience level was.

Have you had the carb apart to have a look see??
My carb came with the diaphragm not connected to the metering needle arm causing a rich condition and dripping from the carb.
Could also be a defective carb,,,,,,,,
Can you make the low lean enough to cause hesitation upon goosing??

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

Well, let me explain more clearly my case. I had about 4 gallons of gas in my engine. About the first 2nd gallon, the engine picked up quite a bit of RPM and the prop noise is loud. I then increase the prop by changing to a PK 27x10 which has a wider blade. This slow down the rpm a bit to a more comfortable rpm. I didn't want to engine to over rev when it is still new. Ran this prop for another 2 gallons. The engine started to load up a bit more before and after the flight just like Bobswika mentioned. I then tried to adjust the low speed and open up the high speed needle to compensate, but no help. I then set the needle it back the way it was. Flew it for a couples more time then I decided it is time to lean the high speed in a bit. 2 flights after that the engine is cooked.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I had no idea what you did or didn't know. You have only a few posts and did not state otherwise.
You would not believe the number of people that think factory settings are good to go and never touch the needles.
I ASSumed you were in that boat.
With the 110 there is a balancing act between high and low that is not as easy to attain as some other engines I have had. But it can be made to run just as good if not better than others.
The 115 has been designed to use a much larger carb.

Don't worry about over reving this engine, it can handle 10,000 rpm no problem and is happier running at higher rpm's. I would not lug it down.

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

See, usually the engine gives you indication of either rich or lean. When you adjust it lean, the engine runs hotter and you start loosing rpm. When you set it rich, the engine hesitates and loaded up. Every engine has its own characteristics and behavior. None 2 engines are exact identical; most engine will falls within the norm. You have to tweak it in order to find out whether it is lean or rich. But this engine gave no indication, the only indication I see is rich. That's why I tried to lean it in.
When I first got my eyes on the engine, the immediate impression I got is that the cooling fins are so tiny and not too many of them. I immediately know that the engine will run very hot. That's why I kept monitoring the temperature to make sure it doesn't get thermal runaway. But doesn't matter how much I tried to rich it out from the factory setting, the temperature is the same. I guess, when the engine is well broken in (1 year run) it will be more tolerable. But now, I' scared to touch it.

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

RTK, If you don't have any problem with your 110, may be you could share with us what prop you are using, what is your current needles location, your fuel mix, how old your engine is, and your RPM. Also, what behavior your engine exibits. Thanks in advance for sharing.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

----I have had the 110 since it's was first released. (#136) I do not know how much fuel I have run through it but maybe 70 or so flights
I was using Amsoil 100:1 mixed at 70:1 Now I am trying Penzoil air cooled @ 32:1 and next will use Belray @ 50:1 just for to see what results I obtain.
I did have a defective carb and Keith offered to replace it but I decided to experiment with it myself. I drilled out the high end to .055 (I believe)
My 110 did exhibit similar behavior as you have mentioned but not to that extent.
My favorite props would be the Menzs 27x10 @ 6100-6400 or Mejz 28x10 @ 6300-6500. Conditions and prop vary so much that I am just giving ball park figures for you and these are from my failing memory.

The only time I over heated my engine was 100% my fault. I knew I was on the edge of being too lean but with the prop I was using it was alright. I purposely set it that way for a vertical drag race that never took place. Well then I decided to switch to one of those new fancy super duper props. (forgot to re-adjust needles) On the first flight I could tell I was lugging it down and it was starting to over heat. It was very apparent and you could tell pre-ignition was taking place.

I have recently purchased a 115 and it is currently in my plane. (comp-arf 2.6 extra) When I decide on my new plane the 110 will go back to the extra.
Ralph

bobswika

Sorry to seem so aggravated, I have just been frustrated for a while which I am not use to. I did have the carb totally apart, I was expecting to find that tiny piece of dirt screwing everything up. I can make it lean enough to hesitate when goosing. The really strange part is that it only happens after idleing for a while and then throttling up, every other time the engine runs fine through the entire high and low range. It is possible that the carb is defective since I threw everything on know at it. Can anyone tell me how to contact Keith to explain my situation. Maybe he can assist. Thanks a lot.

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

bobswika- I too would be frustrated and I don't blame you.
Make sure the diaphragm engages the fork on the metering needle arm, this might be your problem with the loading up at idle if the engine runs fine other wise.

Shoot Keith an e-mail @ [email protected] He is very good at responding to e-mails

HNPower

My Feedback: (9)

For other engines, when the loading up and hesitation happens, I used to lean out the low end and readjust the high end then it'll clear everything up. But with this engine, I don't know and I'm affraid to experiment. Bobswika, pls share with us what you find out. Looks like all 110 engines exibits same behavior. Some just more severe than other, may be due to different needle settings. That's why I'm eager to find out the needles location on good running engines so I can figure out the safe needle set range.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Something that should be noted about he 110 that's been forgotten or overlooked so far by two of us. The 110 IS difficult to adjust the carb on because it IS under carbuerated to some degree. Although it has the largest Walbro carb that will fit, it requires a bit more fuel than can be provided unless you work with the needles a lot. That's why RTK opened up the jets a little in his.

It takes quite a bit of skill and patience to get the needles as close to correct as possible. Even then you will not be able to get maximum performance from the engine until you open up the jets a little. RTK can tell you the method and diameters. It's not difficult or mysterious. On the 115, you will note a massive carb block and a very large carb. The desire of the 110 to want a lot more gas is the reason for the bigger carb and block on the 115, and it eliminated the needle sensitivity issue. Unfortunately it's much too big to fit the 110.

HNPower, I hope I didn't sound like a rep again BTW, Unless you're hitting over 10k rpm, you will be hard pressed to 'over rev' a twin. They just drink gas faster.

bobswika

I will let you know when I get this sorted out. I am going to try and contact Keith. I will e-mail but would like to call as well. Sometimes it is just easier to explain by talking rather than typing. I see mentioned all over the boards that people called Keith but I can not find the number. Can someone please give it to me. Thanks,

Bob

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I will admit there is a balancing act between H & L on this engine that is somewhat harder to find than most. Again let this engine spin up, don't lug it.

When tuning mine I adjusted the low until it hesitated when goosed. Then richened until it does not, then add about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Make sure the high end is plenty rich and SLOWLY start backing down just until things clear up.

Do Not Run any engine at WOT for more than a few seconds on the ground when testing and let it cool in between runs.
I have seen a few people burn engines running WOT on the ground.

F1race79

My Feedback: (6)

I ran the 110 on an Extra all last year and part of this year, I had some problems, but most where worked out.
Ignition dead out of the box, cylinder came off in flight (my only dead stick) lucky the gear was spread, only damage.
I had some low end issues, it came in faster than it left, maybe slight rich on low end, but I worked with it and it never got better.
I couldn't find a happy trim on the low end, but it would never load up.
I also ran the PK 27X10 prop, it was almost TOO MUCH prop, really had to be careful on needles, but I like it for downlines.
It was really slow and didn't break on horizonal lines.

Do I like the engine? Yes and no. I still have it and looking for an airframe for it now. The engine defeats it purpose, it's light then you add nose weight to balance.
It cranks good, it runs good, and it's light....It does what it is suppose to. Yes it is cranky to adjust.
Would I buy another????????????

AHPowelson

My Feedback: (37)

My BME 110 is a monster of an engine and has been rock solid reliable. All summer long (in tropical FL) I’ve run the snot out of mine and it’s never hiccupped once. I’ve done extended (as in multiple minutes) torque rolls followed by a full throttle blast off without ever a sign of overheating or even sagging. FWIW, it’s swinging a PT Models 27x10 at 6700RPM on stock mufflers. I will admit it was a little tricky to get dialed in perfectly during the break-in process, but I haven’t had to touch the needles since. If I was in the market for another 100cc-class engine, it would be the new 115 hands down.

My $.02