searcher

My Feedback: (1)

You can never have too much power...that being said, managing your use of power is the key to success.

With great power comes great responsibility
- Spiderman's Uncle

captinjohn

With Great Power comes Great CRASH!!!...shakespear!!!!!

FalconWings10

My Feedback: (4)

What kind of servo's are you folk using in your UCD's

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

I've got a couple of quick questions before I head to the hobby shop later today. I started putting mine together and I bought some 4-40 rods for all of the control services. I however forgot to buy 4-40 size clevises so I'll need to go back and buy some.

1. Are you guys going with the nylon clevises, or are you going with metal? Or do you recommend something even better?

2. And what about the conection to the servo? I never really liked those safety retainer clips. Are many of you actually using those, or are you using Z-Bends, or once again is there a better option?

3. I've never used nylon wing bolts before so I'm having a hard time convincing myself that these things will hold the wing on that flys 3D. Is this an issue, or am I worrying about nothing?

4. Lastly, to expoy or to not epoxy the horizontal stab? The manual says you can do either or. Whats the concensus?

Thanks for your help. It's really appreciated

stevezero

My Feedback: (11)

Coomarlin,

I went with sullivan 4/40 rods, dubro large scale plastic clevises with the metal safety locking clip on the pin, and nelson 4/40 ball links to attach to the servo. On the surface itself, I'm using Dubro giant scale control horns. On the servo, I'm using a mixture of Dubro giant scale servo horns (long), and the red hitec x horn. If needed, I'll swap the xhorn with a Dubro. It gives bind free control throw, up to 65-70 degrees on the rudder(limited only by servo travel, the surfaces can go almost 90 when not attached) Probably overkill on a sub 8 lb plane, but it wont tear out. Its an additional $10-15, but worth it.

I've used nylon wing bolts on every plane I've owned, and only had one failure, and that was my fault. They will handle everything you can throw at them. Remember, you need the load strength in pulling straight out, not side load. They are made to snap off if subjected to a bit of side loading(which is good for the wing/plane, they seperate). That shouldnt happen in normal flight, but on the dorked landing/falling out of a TR, it keeps the wing from getting major damage.


As for the tail, Check out UCD Thread #1 to see how I installed tail wires, on it, that are removable if I want to take the stab off. There are a couple of pics, that show the tail linkage on the other thread.

Steve

Johnnylightning

...I'm also using the Saito 1.80 on my UCD but I haven't flown it yet. Do you have your tank on the CG and how many oz's is it? What about prop size...17x6-18x6? Also, where Do-U have your CG? What about right thrust?

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

Maybe it's just not my day to assemble my plane, but for some reason I'm really frustrated today.

I'm finding it almost impossible to work on the rear stab. The instructions tell you to cut the block out and remove the false stab. I didn't realize I was going to have to cut two holes on the top of my fuse just to access the 7/64th hexhead screw. I've got a million nut drivers, but none of them are 7/64. I tried every one I had and couldn't get the screw loosened. I even went to sears to find a 7/64th nut driver and they didn't even have one. I still haven't gotten that darn thing off yet. It appears my plane is different than the one in the manual. Mine does not have a full length false fillet. Mine only has 2 small wood blocks located where the screws go through the stab. How did you guys get those screws loose? Obviously I'm overlooking something. Now I'm left with 2 unsightly holes on the top of the fuse.

Does anyone have the dark blue monokote they would like to send me a 3"x5" piece of? :disappoin I'll be darned if I'm gonna order a whole roll of that blue just to patch two 1/2 " holes.

I also ran into a problem mounting my landing gear. I have a full set of both metric and SAE hexwrenches and for the life of me can't find the one that fits those screws. Sometimes I wish they would just use plain screws or hexhead bolts. Does anyone know what size allen wrench thsoe screws take?

Like I said, it's just not my day......

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

DUH..........

Now I know I really shouldn't be working on this plane today. Maybe I should just start my new years party early. :spinnyeye

Here I am trying to fit a nut driver down in that hole to loosen the screw. Where did I come up with nut driver? I needed a 7/64" allen wrench. lol This is what happens when you over-read the directions. The thing is, the hole has a lot of debris in it and I couldn't really see the screw that well. Unfortunately for me it is the same allen wrench that I'm missing for the front landing gear. It used to be when you bought something that used an allen wrench they included one with the product. No I guess they are so common everyone has them (except me) that they don't include them. Looks like I'm off to the Lowes again......

No Wait, I'm taking the rest of the night off. It's a holiday

PS, I'm could still use the small monokote patch to cover those holes if anyone can set me up.

Thanks

captinjohn

Marlin: Just make the patch look like a added decoration or sticker. I use long nose needle vise grips for getting lots of things loose or starting wood screws and bending small dia wire ect. If you do get that screw out replace it with one that you have a wrench that fits. Good luck..... Happy New Year...CJ

searcher

My Feedback: (1)

A Saito 180 in a UCANDO?! You're a NUT!... nice to meet a fellow nut!! :stupid:

I wasnt really taking the plane seriously when I put it together. I was fed up with working on a scratch built Sukoi and purchased the arf on a whim.

The tank is behind the firewall. It is the original tank, but I tend to fly for 8 minutes at a time, so the capacity is ok.

I use a 16x10 two blade prop. This will give you a good top speed as well as excellent low speed authority. I have tried larger, smaller and three blades but the performance suffered. I think you will find a 16x8 or 16x10 will be your best runner.

Dont even ask about CG! It is way nose heavy, as I would rather not load it down with the 10 or so ounces of lead that it would take. The tail has such a long moment and the surfaces are large and the power is excessive, you will find that she responds to your every wish once you get used to her. I run JR digital servos, 4-40 rods with ball joints and have never had a hint of flutter.

I opened her up for inspection tonight. There were no signs of fatigue or separation to be seen. I must admit my surprise.

Some folks dont seem to like my comments on speed. With a 180 on the front, you can drop out of a hover and outrun the little fast birds like the Kougars around the course, then do an inverted harrier almost to the ground where you flip her over and land on the taxi way (why waste the runway space). I cant believe how easy this plane is to fly.

Fly her like you stole her!
Ralph

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

What are the advantages of using ball links instead of a standard z-bend or a retainer clip?

I've never used ball joints on a plane, but it seems like many of you are using them. Maybe I should look into it.

searcher

My Feedback: (1)

There is no slop in a ball link. EZ connectors are nice to use as well.

Yucholian

My Feedback: (7)

I'm thinking of sending my I-Can't-Do-3D. I bought it even though I new it had damaged wing because the dealer said he's send me a replacement in about 2 weeks when they get it. I thought that was fine since it wouldn't be ready for flight anyway. Now I open the box and the cowl and wheel pants have cracks everywhere. They didn't put enough epoxy resin in when they made the parts, so glass cloth shows on various spots and when they painted it, paint wasn't flexible enough. I also noticed actual cracks on the fiberglass. So I called for the availability of the parts, cowl is out of stock untill MARCH!!! I shouldn't have to sit on a new plane till March. I'm thinking of sending it back but afraid I'll be out of shipping charges both ways. Not good.

GeeBeer

That sucks Yucholian, I would be dissapointed and angry as well. One would think that there are things such as quality checks in the manufacturing of products... especialy in these airplane kits... as I am quite sure that the production lines don't run so fast as to prevent a quick inspection. All these problems with these planes.... that is just pathetic.

I do plan on getting one of these planes... as they seem to be well liked when someone actualy receives a flyable product... but I assure you that when I purchase it from my LHS, I will thuroughly inspect it before I buy it. I will not take home any defective parts. What is also sad.... is that Great Planes HAS to be aware of these issues... as the occurence is way to high, but they seem to be doing a very poor job of providing the replacement parts necessary to provide the customer with a quality product. I am not very impressed.

Thats just my opinion.

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

I notice that many of you guys have really nice clean cut holes in your cowl. Did you do that with a dremel, or a standard drill? I've got both, but I don't want to start hacking into the cowl and screw it up.

OnTheEdge

Anyone try the new Hitec 5475 digital servos in their UCD 3D yet? I'm retrofitting mine with them on elev and ail. but it's too cold to fly up here. Looks like great servos for about $39.

Thanks........Mark

luv2fly2

My Feedback: (66)

Well after flying one with a satio 100 on it, I am now going to try it with a RCS 1.4 gas engine, it fits fine in the plane but see about the power, I will post outcome on here later.

Darrinc

My Feedback: (5)

So what are yours weighing?

Mine came out at 6lbs, 7oz.

Thanks

Darrin C

OnTheEdge

Did you weigh it with the motor mounted?

How did you modify it to get it down to that weight? What engine do you have?

coomarlin

My Feedback: (1)

? I haven't heard of a UCD yet that was under 7lbs. How did you accomplish that?

Mine came out to be 7.5 lbs exactly

Dale_L

Yea, inquiring minds want to know.... Mine is right at 8lbs with the YS120 and 3oz of tail weight. I can see 7lbs - maybe - with a Saito 100, no tail weight and mini servos. I know my scale is accurate, it is a digital UPS postage scale.

Dale

Flatspin-RCU

Vernon...let me no how that goes as I have a 1.4 RCS also and I'm taking a finiky ST90 out of my UCD. Was going for the Saito 100 swap but as you know their 280.00 bucks that I dont have at the moment. A 2 lb motor plus ignition battery etc and not really good throttle responce compared to the glow motors...oh well, we'll see...one thing for sure we'll be flyin cheap fuel wise. p^)

Ron

Johnnylightning

...My UCD weighs 7.26 lbs w/ a Saito 1.80. I've used CF, and lightened wherever I could. However, this is according to a digital fish scale. Are they reasonably accurate?

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

7.25 lb is very good for having the 180. I have a Saito 100, and mine weighs 7 lb. Considering the 180 weighs 10 oz more than the 100, your plane should be more like 7.5 lb. So good job on your weight saving.

One maneuver I tried out on a Aerofly Pro simulator is a square loop go-n-touch. Take off, immediately pull a wall to go vertical, go 10~20 ft high and pull up for 2 leg of square loop, cut throttle & pull up to go down vertically, then do a parachute, then land via parachute. And then repeat the whole thing. This is a lot of fun to do with their Hype 3D. I wonder if I can pull this off with my UCD setup. I am sure you w/ 180 can pull this off. Just make sure the only thing ever contacting the ground are your wheels.

Maybe in real life, I'd try this on a cheaper plane, like the Magic Extra.

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

If you leave out the cowl & wheel pants, use Saito 100, and standard (not metal gear) or mini servos, it can definitely be under 7 lb. The cowl is like 3 oz, wheel pants 1 oz each. The Saito 180 or RCS 140 should fit better w/o the cowl