New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
#76
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
sorry but i have to get in on this!
sure everyone has a lucky car that goes for ever, but seriously american cars are no match for the foreign cars in the long run! ford is the only american car i would even consider buying, but they are still builtbadly. LOL and this is coming from a guy who works at a chryslerdealership
sure everyone has a lucky car that goes for ever, but seriously american cars are no match for the foreign cars in the long run! ford is the only american car i would even consider buying, but they are still builtbadly. LOL and this is coming from a guy who works at a chryslerdealership
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
378 dude you crack me up, tell it like it is. Not to change the subject but autoxman never had a reply. The main reason I bought a 3500 dually was to pull up to 4 or 5 hrs and a full load I would say, truck, trailer, race car, equip, everything maybe 20,000 plus lbs...... The only thing that will get that done would be American bottom line. As far as autoxman maybe he can fill me in on how much it is worth never checked just know what I paid.
Sorry can't helponthe battries all I have are Nitros.....
The Domestics are still made in America.
Well...the trucks at least...
lol mine still isn't dead. Excellent trucks. I wish the modern ones were built this well, and still had the 300 in 'em. And had a manual. And were half the size. And weren't horrible to look at.
500 bucks. Why, you ask?
Well, three reasons. One: Ford only made about five kajillion of them. With that many being made, and how reliable there are, it stands to reason that supply far exceeds demand. So they don't sell for much even in pristine condition. A numbers matching 0mile '85 F150 will only fetch ten to fifteen grand if you're lucky and it's got every option offered back then. Mine would be lucky to score 7500 if it was in mint showroom condition. Two: Cosmetically, mine's a wreck. There isn't a body panel on it that isn't dented, faded, or rusty. Also the dashboard is held on with wishes and good luck, and the dash doesn't light up at night. Modern car buyers obsess over cosmetic condition to the point they don't care how reliable it is, so to them my perfectly reliable old truck isn't hardly worth the metal it's made of. Three: It's 25 years old and it has 275 grand on it. Even a Ferrari with 25 years and 275K on the clock isn't gonna command much.
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Sorry can't helponthe battries all I have are Nitros.....
ORIGINAL: 378
Lipo batteries should be able to give you 20-40 minutes of runtime depending on battery capacity and your driving style. Oh and they're perfectly safe too, provided you handle them correctly. Yes, they explode, but it's always because they're damaged and/or charged wrong. Treated right they're as safe as NiMHs.
A NiMH, by comparison, will only last about 5-15 minutes.
It would do it, actually. But, seeing as it's only a half-ton, it wouldn't do it with a load.
Then again neither would an F150. Or a Ram 1500. Or a Silverado 1500. Those are the trucks the Titan is aimed at, those are the trucks to which it should be compared, and none of them are going to be pulling a 40 footer either. Nissan doesn't offer a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup, so you can't use a load that would require such a pickup to test one.
ORIGINAL: wolfgheist
I dont want to get Lithium? I want NIMH? About how long can I run on one of these battery packs? (Trying to figure out how many to get so I can have fun for at least an hour). Also an inexpensive, but safe and decent charger recommendation?
I dont want to get Lithium? I want NIMH? About how long can I run on one of these battery packs? (Trying to figure out how many to get so I can have fun for at least an hour). Also an inexpensive, but safe and decent charger recommendation?
A NiMH, by comparison, will only last about 5-15 minutes.
ORIGINAL: schuttman
I would like to see you pull a 40ft enclosed goosneck trailer with a Nissan Titan.. Now that would be some funny S**t....
I would like to see you pull a 40ft enclosed goosneck trailer with a Nissan Titan.. Now that would be some funny S**t....
Then again neither would an F150. Or a Ram 1500. Or a Silverado 1500. Those are the trucks the Titan is aimed at, those are the trucks to which it should be compared, and none of them are going to be pulling a 40 footer either. Nissan doesn't offer a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup, so you can't use a load that would require such a pickup to test one.
ORIGINAL: sloppyG
if you really wanted to support your local automakers, shuttman, you'd buy a nissan titan
they make those in your state
if you really wanted to support your local automakers, shuttman, you'd buy a nissan titan
they make those in your state
Well...the trucks at least...
ORIGINAL: Sigma.40
I had an '88 F150 with the 4.9L. I ran that thing through hell and back. Lasted forever and took alot to finally kill it.
I had an '88 F150 with the 4.9L. I ran that thing through hell and back. Lasted forever and took alot to finally kill it.
ORIGINAL: AutoXMan
LOL!
How much is your highly reliable vehicle worth?
LOL!
How much is your highly reliable vehicle worth?
Well, three reasons. One: Ford only made about five kajillion of them. With that many being made, and how reliable there are, it stands to reason that supply far exceeds demand. So they don't sell for much even in pristine condition. A numbers matching 0mile '85 F150 will only fetch ten to fifteen grand if you're lucky and it's got every option offered back then. Mine would be lucky to score 7500 if it was in mint showroom condition. Two: Cosmetically, mine's a wreck. There isn't a body panel on it that isn't dented, faded, or rusty. Also the dashboard is held on with wishes and good luck, and the dash doesn't light up at night. Modern car buyers obsess over cosmetic condition to the point they don't care how reliable it is, so to them my perfectly reliable old truck isn't hardly worth the metal it's made of. Three: It's 25 years old and it has 275 grand on it. Even a Ferrari with 25 years and 275K on the clock isn't gonna command much.
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#78
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Hey bro I was making a statement to 378 not hijacking the thread !!!!! You need to go back and read thru the thread, I gave you my advice, don't do elect anymore.......
ORIGINAL: wolfgheist
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: schuttman
Hey bro I was making a statement to 378 not hijacking the thread !!!!! You need to go back and read thru the thread, I gave you my advice, don't do elect anymore.......
Hey bro I was making a statement to 378 not hijacking the thread !!!!! You need to go back and read thru the thread, I gave you my advice, don't do elect anymore.......
ORIGINAL: wolfgheist
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
Ihad new questions, regarding 20C, 25C, 30C discharge rates and Turnigy batteries.
Ithink the last several were about cars. Ipersonally love my CTS and my F-150. Even though Ihave had nothing but problems with my F-150, Istill love it. Best car Iever had was an 87 Toyota Camry, put 350k+ miles on that car and never replaced anything but brakes, tires, wipers and fluids.
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Thats cool was not trying to re start anything from all of the other junk,its just 378 cracks me up, wish I could help on the batt. issue but I'm out on that, I would be lost as last years easter egg, Thats why I have stuck with nitro. Before the lipos came along it was like you had to buy the latest and greatest batts. almost every month, thats why I got out of elects.
ORIGINAL: wolfgheist
That is why Ihad the smiley face. :P
Ihad new questions, regarding 20C, 25C, 30C discharge rates and Turnigy batteries.
Ithink the last several were about cars. Ipersonally love my CTS and my F-150. Even though Ihave had nothing but problems with my F-150, Istill love it. Best car Iever had was an 87 Toyota Camry, put 350k+ miles on that car and never replaced anything but brakes, tires, wipers and fluids.
ORIGINAL: schuttman
Hey bro I was making a statement to 378 not hijacking the thread !!!!! You need to go back and read thru the thread, I gave you my advice, don't do elect anymore.......
Hey bro I was making a statement to 378 not hijacking the thread !!!!! You need to go back and read thru the thread, I gave you my advice, don't do elect anymore.......
ORIGINAL: wolfgheist
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
If you are going to hijack the thread, can you at least try to help with my questions in the same post?
Ihad new questions, regarding 20C, 25C, 30C discharge rates and Turnigy batteries.
Ithink the last several were about cars. Ipersonally love my CTS and my F-150. Even though Ihave had nothing but problems with my F-150, Istill love it. Best car Iever had was an 87 Toyota Camry, put 350k+ miles on that car and never replaced anything but brakes, tires, wipers and fluids.
#82
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Well, have not seen a response to my 20C vs 25C vs 30C question, so I am going to go ahead and purchase 2 of the 25C variety.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14842
Looking at these three charges if someone can offer me some advice.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7523
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11340
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6792</p>
#83
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
20C 25C and 30C refer to discharge rates
to figure out discharge do C-rating X mAh's/1000
so for example a 5200 30C 2S lipo from turnigy would be 30X5200/1000 which equals to 156amps continuous current draw.
So the battery in my example is good to use on basically anything 1/8th scale and under
The ones you linked are good to 125amps continuous
Chargers I'd get 2 of those http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7028
Just know they require a DC power supply.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27554 is a easy DIY thread on how to make one that kicks major ass. I built one after going through 3 other power supplies, you could easily run 6 of the chargers I linked off it
to figure out discharge do C-rating X mAh's/1000
so for example a 5200 30C 2S lipo from turnigy would be 30X5200/1000 which equals to 156amps continuous current draw.
So the battery in my example is good to use on basically anything 1/8th scale and under
The ones you linked are good to 125amps continuous
Chargers I'd get 2 of those http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7028
Just know they require a DC power supply.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27554 is a easy DIY thread on how to make one that kicks major ass. I built one after going through 3 other power supplies, you could easily run 6 of the chargers I linked off it
#84
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
20C 25C and 30C refer to discharge rates
to figure out discharge do C-rating X mAh's/1000
so for example a 5200 30C 2S lipo from turnigy would be 30X5200/1000 which equals to 156amps continuous current draw.
So the battery in my example is good to use on basically anything 1/8th scale and under
The ones you linked are good to 125amps continuous
Chargers I'd get 2 of those http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7028
Just know they require a DC power supply.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27554 is a easy DIY thread on how to make one that kicks major ass. I built one after going through 3 other power supplies, you could easily run 6 of the chargers I linked off it
20C 25C and 30C refer to discharge rates
to figure out discharge do C-rating X mAh's/1000
so for example a 5200 30C 2S lipo from turnigy would be 30X5200/1000 which equals to 156amps continuous current draw.
So the battery in my example is good to use on basically anything 1/8th scale and under
The ones you linked are good to 125amps continuous
Chargers I'd get 2 of those http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7028
Just know they require a DC power supply.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27554 is a easy DIY thread on how to make one that kicks major ass. I built one after going through 3 other power supplies, you could easily run 6 of the chargers I linked off it
#85
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
Technically its based on what the motor pulls
In the VXL's case its 65A's so the batteries have no issues at all
Side note you might want to order some 2S lipos too cause 3S can be a tad hard to control.
In the VXL's case its 65A's so the batteries have no issues at all
Side note you might want to order some 2S lipos too cause 3S can be a tad hard to control.
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
just keep running your cars in mud and water .you have nothing but time and money to fix them /you are probly the same type of guy whatching jackass laughing with a beer in your hand and wearing a mullit . dont you know that these companies are not in the buisiness to make r/c cars they are here to make money .so just keepbreaking stuff they lovewhen you do stupid stuff so does the hobby shop
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RE: New to RC and would like some tips on what to get first
dont get me wrong i beat my stuff up to a point im no wus but if it gets wet its by accident im not going to drive staight into a creek .in the past iv dont the ballon thing and the rtv when the say waterproff thats only goes so far bud