AR-6 Construction Thread
#201
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This morning the engine was installed and the incidences were checked.
You align the model until the engine is level.
You then check the incidence on the wing.
I will have to add a shim to increase the wing incidence about 1 degree.
You align the model until the engine is level.
You then check the incidence on the wing.
I will have to add a shim to increase the wing incidence about 1 degree.
#202
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Tail surfaces were made from balsa wood and covered with fiberglass cloth.
The pictures shows vacuum bagging the surfaces between layers of peel ply.
It was cold in the garage so the parts were covered with an electric blanket.
The pictures shows vacuum bagging the surfaces between layers of peel ply.
It was cold in the garage so the parts were covered with an electric blanket.
#206
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I fitted the nose for a 1 3/4" spinner.
Polyester filler (NAPA version of lightweight Bondo) was used to build up the surface. The nose was then sanded to fit.
Polyester filler (NAPA version of lightweight Bondo) was used to build up the surface. The nose was then sanded to fit.
#207
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Now is time to complete the model with the paint job.
Do a thorough job prepping the surface and you will have fewer issues with the paint job.
The pictures show applying a layer of spackle over the surface to help seal pinholes.
Both styles of spackle work fine. Lightweight spackle sticks a little better but takes longer to dry.
Do a thorough job prepping the surface and you will have fewer issues with the paint job.
The pictures show applying a layer of spackle over the surface to help seal pinholes.
Both styles of spackle work fine. Lightweight spackle sticks a little better but takes longer to dry.
#208
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I've been trying shorter landing gear struts on my recent models.
Two sets of holes are on the strut. If the shorter works fine, the extra length will be cut off.
Two sets of holes are on the strut. If the shorter works fine, the extra length will be cut off.
#210
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A coat of primer was applied next.
I personally like the Klass Kote white primer and that was used.
Approximately 5 ounces of primer was mixed and then allowed to set for 30 minutes.
The mix was then thinned with an equal volume of thinner.
I filtered the mix when poring into the gun.
A conventional size spray gun was used to apply the primer. The air pressure was set at 50 psig.
The parts were set out of the way to dry.
I personally like the Klass Kote white primer and that was used.
Approximately 5 ounces of primer was mixed and then allowed to set for 30 minutes.
The mix was then thinned with an equal volume of thinner.
I filtered the mix when poring into the gun.
A conventional size spray gun was used to apply the primer. The air pressure was set at 50 psig.
The parts were set out of the way to dry.
#211
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The primer was sanded with 400 grit paper used dry. The model was then blow off with my air compressor.
I followed with some very light coats of yellow automotive paint. The Acrylic Enamel paint was from Restoration Shop.
The parts were set out of the way to dry.
I followed with some very light coats of yellow automotive paint. The Acrylic Enamel paint was from Restoration Shop.
The parts were set out of the way to dry.
Last edited by sahartman21; 11-28-2014 at 05:47 PM.
#213
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Sometimes, despite your best efforts, things go wrong.
The masking was removed and also came some paint.
I applied masking tape to the surface before the paint was 100% dry and paid the price.
The next time I will wait at least 2 days after painting before masking off.
The masking was removed and also came some paint.
I applied masking tape to the surface before the paint was 100% dry and paid the price.
The next time I will wait at least 2 days after painting before masking off.
#214
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I touched up the surface as well as I could and then applied clear coat.
I used a type intended for spot panels. The clear coat was thinned slightly to allow for easier spraying.
I used a type intended for spot panels. The clear coat was thinned slightly to allow for easier spraying.