dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Been reading this thread and others in regards to replacement Mufflers for this engine because the DLE Mufflers fall apart; a lot of info that Bennet Mufflers are solid but noisy; Jtec looks similar to the Bennets; what about the Brisson Muffler made for this Engine http://www.bissonmufflers.com/en/muf...ing_id=1138766 anyone running one, how do they compare to the others? I have a Brisson for a DLE55 Side Exhaust Model and it seems like a decent Muffler, havn't ran the engine yet.

Thanks.

p38mike

My Feedback: (3)

I break all my DLE, DA and OS gas engines in with one-two gallons of Lawnboy Ashless at 32:1 then switch to full synthetic Redline at 40:1. Engines all seem very happy! Don't overlook the break in process with non-synthetic oil to properly seat the rings. Also use 89 octane non-ethanol gas (marine) if you can find it!

ozzieflyer

I bought one of these from Bisson, its a lot stronger than the original DLE muffler, but no quieter, and it sits a bit high, so you have to turn the spark lead to the side or the muffler will melt it.

308jockey

Morning all,

We have a new side exhaust DLE 55 that has been installed on an Aeroworks Extra 300. Ran it for the first time and noticed an idle issue. Going from idle to full throttle it stumbles a bit as thought the idle is rich. When going from full throttle to idle the idle speed is quite high as though it is too lean. It will run this way for about 15 seconds or so and then settles down to a nice slow idle rpm and will hold this slower rpm as long as we want to. I'd guess the idle rpm drop 1000 rpm after that first 15 seconds or so. Any ideas why this is happening? It doesn't seem to be in the pushrod or any linkage issue from servo to engine. Going back to full throttle it will again run rough as though the low end is too rich, then clears out and runs fine at full throttle. The mid range seems fine. I've tried leaning the idle needle and that has improved transition to full throttle but it still idles way to fast for that 15 seconds or so before settling back down to a slow idle. Any insight on this is appreciated. Thanks.

Rick H.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

The HS needle is likely lean, and new engine heating is making it leaner. If cowl is installed, it will be hotter still. If using stock recommended needle settings and oil ratio and suggested break in prop, the low end may be slightly rich. By intent. Transition from idle to full is really controlled by low needle and how hot the motor is. When new, transitions will be bumpy at first.
You probably don't have a problem, just new engine, needle adjustment and heat loading.

Kentli22

I remember someone here in RCU told me that when it takes a while for the idle rpm to settle down to where it suppose to be, it is because the low needle is too lean.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Question.
What's the better prop for a Dle 55 ra for a top flite mustang that weight between 25-30 lbs?
22x8 or 22x10?
I am leaning toward a 22x10 because that what I use in all my zenoah g62 bit i don't want to load the dle too much and make it overheat and quit.....

Fabio

thepamster

23 X 8 I believe is the most common. Thats what I use on mine. Perhaps a 23 X10 for a Mustang.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

22x10 for more speed,23-x8 for more vertical. Typical 50cc powered warbirds use a 22-10.

308jockey

We're running a 22x10 very satisfactorily on this engine in an Aeroworks Extra 300. Excellent vertical, good speed and rpm. This engine isn't broken in yet so I expect improvement. Also running a 22x10 on two other 50's and have no reason to change.

Rick H.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Thanks for all the replies.
I was under the impression that a 22x10 for an heavy warbird with a tight cowl like the mustang was loading up the engine bit much to increase the heat to the point of stalling out.
Apparently those of you that are flying the mustang have more experience with this engine than I do, so I will go forward and order a 22x10 Xoar "Sword" propeller.

thanks for the help.

Fabio

p38mike

My Feedback: (3)

I have a TF Mustang with a DA-50 and painted APC 22x10. I also have a 26 lb ESM Spitfire with a DLE-55 with an unpainted APC 22x10. And I just completed a ESM 19 lb Mig-3 with a DLE-55 and a Vess 22-B. The Mig is so overpowered it doesn't matter much but I'd go with the 10 pitch prop for the larger warbirds. My PAU Edge 540 has a DA-50 and I use a Vess 22-B. Used the Zoars but not crazy about them. Vess are very nice but delicate and APC turns 200-300 RPM higher. Just watch your fingers!

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

If your cowl is set up properly, it will cool just fine. If the cowl isn't set up right, the engine will overheat regardless of the prop size. A 22-10 is not an excessive load at all for any decent 50+ CC engine.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone know the thread size for the single bolt prop adapter from Valley view? I think it is 10 mm, but not sure on the pitch. 1? 1.5? I am going to use a scale nut to hold the prop on this engine.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

I have a dilemma....hope that some of you can help me make the right choice, particularly the one that fly with a Dle 55 ra.
i used to have two top flite GS P-51 both with zenoah g62 in it.
Of course the cowl was bit chopped up with the muffler sticking out one side and the carb the other.
Small trade off for me which I always favored the dependability of the zenoah engines in favor of accurate scale look.
i flew both planes for years with plenty of satisfaction, never an engine issue to speak of, just a flip of the prop and i knew the engine would never quit unless i decided to do so.....

This year i am in the final stage of completing my third p-51 fully glassed, rivets and so on.
I was attracted to the Dle 55ra for the opportunity to build this one closer to scale without butchering the cowl too much.

I have been reading off a lot lately on different web sites, this one included, and it seems to me clear by now that the rear muffler set up could cause some heating problems particularly creating vapor lock to the carb, if not properly baffled with some sort of a deflector shield between the muffler and the carb.
Also many complained of overheating during flight and causing the engine to quit forcing dead sticks.
The ones that have been using with success the dle55 are the side exhaust one and for some reason the side muffler does not restrict the air flow like the rear muffler does.

I have right now on my bench both engines that i could install, both brand new, a Dle 55 ra and a Zenoah g62.
My dilemma is, should i just install the tried and true zenoah and go fly without hesitation and engine worries, or install the Dle and hope that it will not quit and die on me and fly apprehensive until it will prove to be dependable like the zenoah?

Thanks for all the help .....

Fabio

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Doomking, if you follow a few simple rules about cooling, I'm sure the DLE ra can be every bit as dependable as that Zenoah. First, here is a link from the late Pe Reivers. Follow his wisdon and your Mustang will cool ..... period!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...t-results.html

Now regarding the 55ra, some have fashioned a small aluminum shield that mounts between the muffler and the carb. This reduces the direct heating effect on the carb. Don't make it so huge that it restricts airflow, just large enough to prevent direct radiated heat from the muffler from reaching the carb. While a good tight cowl is good for cooling the engine cylinder, you don't want the air in the cowl to be stagnant. You may want to make provision for some air to enter the top of the cowl, both for the carb air inlet and to reduce the in cowl temperatures in general. A cool air source for the carb inlet could be desirable.

A tight warbird cowl is very different than a huge aerobatic airplane cowl. Yes, many people "get by" without baffles and just cut a few air inlet / exhaust holes here and there in the cowl..... but do you want to trust your new pride and joy to haphazard "just getting by" practices?

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

If anyone can give me a bennet muffler measurement I would appreciate it...

my my stock one won't work..... Too big and I don't want to cut firewall

sbrackets

Hello Dblex
I have one sitting here and it measures 30 MM thick exactly at the widest point. And if it works, I have mine for sale. Never used. For DLE-55 RA. I can send pics I'll take $25.00 with bolts and gaskit.

Jim

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

I'm interested

If this is it, send me pics and paypal info to [email protected]

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

deleted

preed5270

Where is Mr. DLE when you need him????? Both of them, referred to above, are gone! How about that for customer satisfaction. Sell a hell of a lot- and F-the customer??

What's that all about.. I've switched over to EME.

1. Triple intake ports- Schnuel ports(spelling). DLE has 2 ports
2. Japanese bearings instead of DLE Chinese Bearings
3. True Wal-bro carb instead of in house carb knock off DLE uses
4. True NGK spark plug- Not DLE junk plug
5. The EME engine block is made in a fashion to reduce the length of the engine stand-offs , to reduce vibrations. DLE uses the standard long stand-off and vibrate the muffler apart, not to mention the plane itself.

EME- has it's goals set to REPLACE the DLE market. If DLE does not take care of its customers and replace and repair these DLE 55ra engines/ mufflers, then EME will rule the market.

Let's watch DLE screw up it's market share by screwing the customers who purchased the DLE 55ra.

I sent DLE an e-mail stating the muffler problem and they will not even reply or respond!!