Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
12-08-2003, 10:16 PM
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Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
am looking for some help from guys that have built this plane. I have started on the fuse and was wondering if you guys have installed the servos in the tail or if you put them forward in the fuse. I am thinking I will use a pull pull system on the rudder and separate elevator servos on the split elevator. I have increased the size of the elevators buy 1 inch in length and tapered them down to 1/8th of an inch at the trailing edges. Also, increased the size of the rudder by 1.5 inches and also tapered it to 1/8 of an inch at the trailing edge. This looks much nicer than the stock clunky build in the kit. I am planning 4 aileron servos and looking to power it with a ZDZ 60. I am going to cover it with coverite and paint it as compared to monokote or ultrakote, I find this far more durable.
Also looking at installing fuel and smoke tanks on the CG if at all possible.
Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Also looking at installing fuel and smoke tanks on the CG if at all possible.
Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
Thanks
12-09-2003, 01:08 AM
#2
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Mine's not a GP but is in that size bracket...but blowen up from the orginal Aeromaster and powered with a ST .90... great flying plane but turned out tail heavy and had to add weight to the nose.
Would suggest to mount up the engine and work with the servos and other essentials to get the CG as close as possible even before covering. Should be very close to the leading edge of the lower wing.
Covering with Sig Koverall is great but the painting stinks..(sorry bout that) Been there, Done That...but if you insist, by all means do it. I do the Koverall and then cover that with Monokote does a fabric finish that is fantastic.. ++ it is lighter than paint +++ is almost bullet proof ++++ repairs easier than paint +++++ can stick your trim monokote to it with Windex with ammonia.
Hope I don't ruffle to many feathers but I sometimes do paint one just to keep a hand in. Oh I still have my 30 gallon compressor, my prime gun, a couple of finish guns (one enamel and the other is for lacquer) then for fill a couple of furniture guns plus several air brushes. Now its down to Wally World and buy Rustoleum rather than go through all that again.
Why does painting stink....??
First you must fill the weave...with clear and talc (baby powder) Or you can use the Secret Method.. heheh say Please an I'll tell ya how.
Then more clear, or you prime and sand, prime and sand....more clear if you desire..
More sanding, remember if you go through you get the fuzzies and it takes more clear to get that to lay down..
Then two coats of color for plain jane or three for a good finish.. don't forget to sand out the droplets..
You can wait for two or three days for the finish to form up and cure..then--
Now you can apply your masking and a little clear around the inside edges to seal the mask and hope you got all the bleeders covered..
Paint your trim colors in and if you went to a tri color scheme you get to do it all over again..
Oh-oh.. forget to put the plastisizer in the paint.. You say your water trap filled up and dumped a load of moisture on your finish coat...and etc.
Well am truly sorry bout that but by now I'm out flying mine.
Sides that the paint stinks, and costs big bucks..don't forget to buy an extra several gallons of thinner and carb cleaner to clean up the spray equip. Ultimate $$$ for paint is way up there.
Sorry I can't agree with you on the paint, but do love my MonoKote over Koverall.. it's a lot lighter too. But painting does have its Place, for sure!
GSNut
Keep em Flyin
Would suggest to mount up the engine and work with the servos and other essentials to get the CG as close as possible even before covering. Should be very close to the leading edge of the lower wing.
Covering with Sig Koverall is great but the painting stinks..(sorry bout that) Been there, Done That...but if you insist, by all means do it. I do the Koverall and then cover that with Monokote does a fabric finish that is fantastic.. ++ it is lighter than paint +++ is almost bullet proof ++++ repairs easier than paint +++++ can stick your trim monokote to it with Windex with ammonia.
Hope I don't ruffle to many feathers but I sometimes do paint one just to keep a hand in. Oh I still have my 30 gallon compressor, my prime gun, a couple of finish guns (one enamel and the other is for lacquer) then for fill a couple of furniture guns plus several air brushes. Now its down to Wally World and buy Rustoleum rather than go through all that again.
Why does painting stink....??
First you must fill the weave...with clear and talc (baby powder) Or you can use the Secret Method.. heheh say Please an I'll tell ya how.
Then more clear, or you prime and sand, prime and sand....more clear if you desire..
More sanding, remember if you go through you get the fuzzies and it takes more clear to get that to lay down..
Then two coats of color for plain jane or three for a good finish.. don't forget to sand out the droplets..
You can wait for two or three days for the finish to form up and cure..then--
Now you can apply your masking and a little clear around the inside edges to seal the mask and hope you got all the bleeders covered..
Paint your trim colors in and if you went to a tri color scheme you get to do it all over again..
Oh-oh.. forget to put the plastisizer in the paint.. You say your water trap filled up and dumped a load of moisture on your finish coat...and etc.
Well am truly sorry bout that but by now I'm out flying mine.
Sides that the paint stinks, and costs big bucks..don't forget to buy an extra several gallons of thinner and carb cleaner to clean up the spray equip. Ultimate $$$ for paint is way up there.
Sorry I can't agree with you on the paint, but do love my MonoKote over Koverall.. it's a lot lighter too. But painting does have its Place, for sure!
GSNut
Keep em Flyin
12-09-2003, 11:22 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
I have one with a G62. I put all the servo in the tail .2 rudder 2 elevator I run 2 battery and used the battery to bal. the airplane. had to put the battery just behind the tank hope this helps
12-09-2003, 12:05 PM
#4
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hooked, I did the same mods to the tail. The servos are mounted in the tail for the rudder and elevators. I added two washers to each rear cabain strut to give about 1 degree of negative incidence to the top wing. This makes the plane much more stable in pitch.
One thing that I did was to add balsa blocks to the top of the lower wing. These are spaced tightly against the fuselage sides to prevent friction heating from vibration between the wing and fuselage. Notice the scorch marks that were put on the wing prior to mounting the blocks.
I used straight Monokote to keep the weight down - 21# with a G62 in the nose.
I also use my GA as a sailplane tug.
Ken
One thing that I did was to add balsa blocks to the top of the lower wing. These are spaced tightly against the fuselage sides to prevent friction heating from vibration between the wing and fuselage. Notice the scorch marks that were put on the wing prior to mounting the blocks.
I used straight Monokote to keep the weight down - 21# with a G62 in the nose.
I also use my GA as a sailplane tug.
Ken
04-08-2004, 07:03 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
From CG in Zimbabwe. After much searching I have managed to buy a Giant Aeromaster kit and it is now on its way to me from UK. I intend to power it with a Z62. At present I have a Sukhoi with a Z62 and I use a 22*10 prop which goes at about 5500rpm. I imagine that the Aeromaster will fly slower than the Sukhoi. Which prop would you recommend? I do have a 24*8 ? We tend to get rather lower power here because we are hot and high.
I have read of starting troubles with the Z62. I did have a bit of trouble at first and it whacked me pretty hard because of starting too lean, however I got the hang of it after a while. Until it suddenly wouldn't start at all. After much enquiring and trying different things I found that there is a very tiny filter in the carb which had become blocked. Fortunately the blockage did not happen in flight. Then I was told by the experts that I should never operate without a felt clunk in the tank. Neither the tiny filter nor the requirement for a felt clunk, although they make sense, were mentioned in any of the literature or instructions that I have read. The other drama that happened with my Z62 was during starting. I had opened the throttle for priming, turned on the kill switch but forgot to turn back to idle. The engine leaped into life next flick and tried to bury itself into my stomach. Fortunately I was wearing a loose shirt which was immediately shredded but the 22" circular saw missed my flesh by millimetres otherwise I probably would not be writing this story -- so be careful and always have a helper to hold the model. CG
I have read of starting troubles with the Z62. I did have a bit of trouble at first and it whacked me pretty hard because of starting too lean, however I got the hang of it after a while. Until it suddenly wouldn't start at all. After much enquiring and trying different things I found that there is a very tiny filter in the carb which had become blocked. Fortunately the blockage did not happen in flight. Then I was told by the experts that I should never operate without a felt clunk in the tank. Neither the tiny filter nor the requirement for a felt clunk, although they make sense, were mentioned in any of the literature or instructions that I have read. The other drama that happened with my Z62 was during starting. I had opened the throttle for priming, turned on the kill switch but forgot to turn back to idle. The engine leaped into life next flick and tried to bury itself into my stomach. Fortunately I was wearing a loose shirt which was immediately shredded but the 22" circular saw missed my flesh by millimetres otherwise I probably would not be writing this story -- so be careful and always have a helper to hold the model. CG
04-08-2004, 10:49 PM
#6
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi CG,
I'm not familiar with a Z62 unless you mean a Zenoah G-62. On my G-62 I use the "Jump Start" from CH Electronics. It makes starting really easy.
My G-62 turns 7300 with a Pro Zinger 22 x 10 prop and pulls the plane vertical as far as I want it to go. Yes the Aeromaster will fly a little slower than the Sukhoi but not much.
I don't use a filter clunk in the tank but do filter the fuel as it comes out of the can. I use an in line automotive filter. Never had a problem with the screen stopping up.
It gets pretty hot here in Texas in the summer time. Like 100 degrees F in the shade. That's when I stay home.
I'm sure glad you weren't injured. If I'm starting my plane by myself, I use a nylon strap over the rear of the fuselage and under the tail that is staked down with a long screw driver.
Be Safe,
Ken
I'm not familiar with a Z62 unless you mean a Zenoah G-62. On my G-62 I use the "Jump Start" from CH Electronics. It makes starting really easy.
My G-62 turns 7300 with a Pro Zinger 22 x 10 prop and pulls the plane vertical as far as I want it to go. Yes the Aeromaster will fly a little slower than the Sukhoi but not much.
I don't use a filter clunk in the tank but do filter the fuel as it comes out of the can. I use an in line automotive filter. Never had a problem with the screen stopping up.
It gets pretty hot here in Texas in the summer time. Like 100 degrees F in the shade. That's when I stay home.
I'm sure glad you weren't injured. If I'm starting my plane by myself, I use a nylon strap over the rear of the fuselage and under the tail that is staked down with a long screw driver.
Be Safe,
Ken
04-11-2004, 12:16 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
ORIGINAL: GSNut
Mine's not a GP but is in that size bracket...but blowen up from the orginal Aeromaster and powered with a ST .90... great flying plane but turned out tail heavy and had to add weight to the nose.
Would suggest to mount up the engine and work with the servos and other essentials to get the CG as close as possible even before covering. Should be very close to the leading edge of the lower wing.
Covering with Sig Koverall is great but the painting stinks..(sorry bout that) Been there, Done That...but if you insist, by all means do it. I do the Koverall and then cover that with Monokote does a fabric finish that is fantastic.. ++ it is lighter than paint +++ is almost bullet proof ++++ repairs easier than paint +++++ can stick your trim monokote to it with Windex with ammonia.
Hope I don't ruffle to many feathers but I sometimes do paint one just to keep a hand in. Oh I still have my 30 gallon compressor, my prime gun, a couple of finish guns (one enamel and the other is for lacquer) then for fill a couple of furniture guns plus several air brushes. Now its down to Wally World and buy Rustoleum rather than go through all that again.
Why does painting stink....??
First you must fill the weave...with clear and talc (baby powder) Or you can use the Secret Method.. heheh say Please an I'll tell ya how.
Then more clear, or you prime and sand, prime and sand....more clear if you desire..
More sanding, remember if you go through you get the fuzzies and it takes more clear to get that to lay down..
Then two coats of color for plain jane or three for a good finish.. don't forget to sand out the droplets..
You can wait for two or three days for the finish to form up and cure..then--
Now you can apply your masking and a little clear around the inside edges to seal the mask and hope you got all the bleeders covered..
Paint your trim colors in and if you went to a tri color scheme you get to do it all over again..
Oh-oh.. forget to put the plastisizer in the paint.. You say your water trap filled up and dumped a load of moisture on your finish coat...and etc.
Well am truly sorry bout that but by now I'm out flying mine.
Sides that the paint stinks, and costs big bucks..don't forget to buy an extra several gallons of thinner and carb cleaner to clean up the spray equip. Ultimate $$$ for paint is way up there.
Sorry I can't agree with you on the paint, but do love my MonoKote over Koverall.. it's a lot lighter too. But painting does have its Place, for sure!
GSNut
Keep em Flyin
Mine's not a GP but is in that size bracket...but blowen up from the orginal Aeromaster and powered with a ST .90... great flying plane but turned out tail heavy and had to add weight to the nose.
Would suggest to mount up the engine and work with the servos and other essentials to get the CG as close as possible even before covering. Should be very close to the leading edge of the lower wing.
Covering with Sig Koverall is great but the painting stinks..(sorry bout that) Been there, Done That...but if you insist, by all means do it. I do the Koverall and then cover that with Monokote does a fabric finish that is fantastic.. ++ it is lighter than paint +++ is almost bullet proof ++++ repairs easier than paint +++++ can stick your trim monokote to it with Windex with ammonia.
Hope I don't ruffle to many feathers but I sometimes do paint one just to keep a hand in. Oh I still have my 30 gallon compressor, my prime gun, a couple of finish guns (one enamel and the other is for lacquer) then for fill a couple of furniture guns plus several air brushes. Now its down to Wally World and buy Rustoleum rather than go through all that again.
Why does painting stink....??
First you must fill the weave...with clear and talc (baby powder) Or you can use the Secret Method.. heheh say Please an I'll tell ya how.
Then more clear, or you prime and sand, prime and sand....more clear if you desire..
More sanding, remember if you go through you get the fuzzies and it takes more clear to get that to lay down..
Then two coats of color for plain jane or three for a good finish.. don't forget to sand out the droplets..
You can wait for two or three days for the finish to form up and cure..then--
Now you can apply your masking and a little clear around the inside edges to seal the mask and hope you got all the bleeders covered..
Paint your trim colors in and if you went to a tri color scheme you get to do it all over again..
Oh-oh.. forget to put the plastisizer in the paint.. You say your water trap filled up and dumped a load of moisture on your finish coat...and etc.
Well am truly sorry bout that but by now I'm out flying mine.
Sides that the paint stinks, and costs big bucks..don't forget to buy an extra several gallons of thinner and carb cleaner to clean up the spray equip. Ultimate $$$ for paint is way up there.
Sorry I can't agree with you on the paint, but do love my MonoKote over Koverall.. it's a lot lighter too. But painting does have its Place, for sure!
GSNut
Keep em Flyin
I built a 1/3 scale Fly Baby bipe and covered it with $18 worth of Koveral and painted it with $15 worth of latex paint. No spray gun required. Its not as shiney as plastic but neither are any of the full scale I have seen.
04-28-2004, 08:32 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Here's a picture of my Aeromaster. It was totally blue when I bought it from a friend last year. I decided to do something patriotic with it in honor of my son-in-law (a Marine in Okinawa) and the other brave kids we've got fighting overseas right now. The only problem was that after all that work I was scared to death to fly it. When the day finally came, this past Saturday, I found that it flew as well as I think it looks. Not bad for a first covering job I think.
04-29-2004, 10:18 AM
#11
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Aggie, that's a great looking covering job. Did you forget to put the interplane struts back? They add a lot of overall strength to the wings. What engine are you using?
Congratulations on the first flight. Hope you have many more.
Ken
Congratulations on the first flight. Hope you have many more.
Ken
05-31-2004, 04:39 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hey Big Bird,
How did you get your G-62 to turn 7300 with a 22-10 ? I had Bennett do mine and he sent a note with it saying it turned 6850 with a 22-10. He didn't say which 22-10 or which make.
Any insight ?
How did you get your G-62 to turn 7300 with a 22-10 ? I had Bennett do mine and he sent a note with it saying it turned 6850 with a 22-10. He didn't say which 22-10 or which make.
Any insight ?
06-01-2004, 09:36 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi,
I'm building a Giant Aeromaster at the moment. G62, 4servos aileron, 2 elevator and 1 rudder.Rudder and elevator servos at the back. I've built the tail and the wings and am well advanced with the fuse. Very enjoyable and well thought out kit in my opinion. There doesn't seem to be a lot of room at the front for the G62 and I am going to have to cut a step in the firewall so that my BCM silencer will fit. Also I use a 90 degree bend for the carb and normally fit a carb trumpet. There is just no room for the carb trumpet so it will have to manage without it. Similarly to Seymour I find that my G62 does about 6800 with a 22*10. With a 20*10 it will do about 7500. I'm hoping to buy another G62 from this forum for the Aeromaster. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in performance.
Cheers,
CG
I'm building a Giant Aeromaster at the moment. G62, 4servos aileron, 2 elevator and 1 rudder.Rudder and elevator servos at the back. I've built the tail and the wings and am well advanced with the fuse. Very enjoyable and well thought out kit in my opinion. There doesn't seem to be a lot of room at the front for the G62 and I am going to have to cut a step in the firewall so that my BCM silencer will fit. Also I use a 90 degree bend for the carb and normally fit a carb trumpet. There is just no room for the carb trumpet so it will have to manage without it. Similarly to Seymour I find that my G62 does about 6800 with a 22*10. With a 20*10 it will do about 7500. I'm hoping to buy another G62 from this forum for the Aeromaster. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in performance.
Cheers,
CG
06-01-2004, 01:03 PM
#15
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
I gathered up every prop that I had that would run on a G-62. The temp was 87 degf with relative humidity about the same. Miserable!
Here are the results:
Zinger Pro 22x10 7140
Zinger 22x6-10 6960
Zinger 22-10 6660
Menz Ultra 22-10 7380
Bambula 24x8 5580
The Zinger Pro is actually a Zinger 22x10 re-cut to the Pro outline.
Keep in mind that under cool and dry conditions these RPM numbers could be 100 to 200 RPM higher. My G-62 is a stock, well broken in engine. I'm using regular gasoline with a 50:1 mix of Amsoil 2000 synthetic oil. The muffler, as shown above (the black one), is my own home built.
Remember that static RPM numbers don't paint the whole picture. I like the Zinger Pro and the Menz Ultra the best.
Ken
Here are the results:
Zinger Pro 22x10 7140
Zinger 22x6-10 6960
Zinger 22-10 6660
Menz Ultra 22-10 7380
Bambula 24x8 5580
The Zinger Pro is actually a Zinger 22x10 re-cut to the Pro outline.
Keep in mind that under cool and dry conditions these RPM numbers could be 100 to 200 RPM higher. My G-62 is a stock, well broken in engine. I'm using regular gasoline with a 50:1 mix of Amsoil 2000 synthetic oil. The muffler, as shown above (the black one), is my own home built.
Remember that static RPM numbers don't paint the whole picture. I like the Zinger Pro and the Menz Ultra the best.
Ken
06-01-2004, 08:35 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
well i total'd mine but i put the servos in the fuse...but i was use'n a ST4500...if you go gas you need to put them at the rear...plane and simple.LOL..PS...does anyone know of one for sale....i need another one...miss mine bad....that is one cool plane.....e-mail me at [email protected] like to find one in the box....ill pay good for it... in subject put (Areomaster)
06-01-2004, 09:13 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Ken,
I think you are right on with those numbers. I believe temps and prop blade type are enough to make the difference.
I tend to go with a shorter length and wider blade with more pitch and a square tip. If I buy a prop I go longer than I need, and cut to length, to get the wider blade.
I make walnut and maple laminated props for the local guys, as well as most of my own.
Thanks for the info.
Jim
I think you are right on with those numbers. I believe temps and prop blade type are enough to make the difference.
I tend to go with a shorter length and wider blade with more pitch and a square tip. If I buy a prop I go longer than I need, and cut to length, to get the wider blade.
I make walnut and maple laminated props for the local guys, as well as most of my own.
Thanks for the info.
Jim
06-19-2004, 03:08 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi,
All the construction on my Giant Aeromaster is now complete except for covering and putting in the controls. I have put the engine on (G62) without the muffler, cowling fuel tank etc and the model seems very nose heavy. I have mounted the engine using the radial mount which puts the prop backplate in the design position of seven and a bit inches in front of the firewall. I can remove the radial mount and fit the engine on a plate bolted to the back of the crankcase which will move it back by just over one inch. This should make balancing a lot easier and I am sure that I can adjust the cowling accordingly. Has anyone done that ? Do you think that the exact location of the prop +- 1 inch is critical at all ? The model is designed around the US engines 41 which weighs 4.5 lbs against the G62 which weighs 5 lbs.
Opinions will be appreciated.
CG
All the construction on my Giant Aeromaster is now complete except for covering and putting in the controls. I have put the engine on (G62) without the muffler, cowling fuel tank etc and the model seems very nose heavy. I have mounted the engine using the radial mount which puts the prop backplate in the design position of seven and a bit inches in front of the firewall. I can remove the radial mount and fit the engine on a plate bolted to the back of the crankcase which will move it back by just over one inch. This should make balancing a lot easier and I am sure that I can adjust the cowling accordingly. Has anyone done that ? Do you think that the exact location of the prop +- 1 inch is critical at all ? The model is designed around the US engines 41 which weighs 4.5 lbs against the G62 which weighs 5 lbs.
Opinions will be appreciated.
CG
06-19-2004, 07:24 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
cg
When I built mine with a US41 and servos in the fuselage it balanced out with no weight added. Those with a G62 are putting the servos in the tail to help with the extra engine weight out front. You might try setting up to balance and then set your servos on the stab so see how it does. Look at the pics in post 4 & 8.
Hope this helps.
When I built mine with a US41 and servos in the fuselage it balanced out with no weight added. Those with a G62 are putting the servos in the tail to help with the extra engine weight out front. You might try setting up to balance and then set your servos on the stab so see how it does. Look at the pics in post 4 & 8.
Hope this helps.
06-21-2004, 02:53 AM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi,
Next question. I am now to the covering stage on my Giant Aeromaster and it is looking good. Which servos should I use? I am putting four in the wings and two for the elevators. All my other quarter scales seem to manage perfectly well with which ever I put in them i.e. standard servos. Why do we need or recommend especially hi torque servos for the Aeromaster ? Or is it really necessary to buy special servos.
CG
Next question. I am now to the covering stage on my Giant Aeromaster and it is looking good. Which servos should I use? I am putting four in the wings and two for the elevators. All my other quarter scales seem to manage perfectly well with which ever I put in them i.e. standard servos. Why do we need or recommend especially hi torque servos for the Aeromaster ? Or is it really necessary to buy special servos.
CG
06-21-2004, 08:18 AM
#22
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
On this plane you can get by in good shape with servos on the flight surfaces rated at 69 in-oz or better. I've had very good luck with the Hitec line of servos. On my new 1/3 scale Bucker Jungmeister, which will weigh about 30 lbs, I am using the HS-635HB servos on the tail surfaces. These have Karbonite gears and are rated at 69 in-oz at 4.8 volts. On the wings I'm using HS-645MGs (2 each).
http://www.hitecrcd.com/product_fs.htm
Ken
http://www.hitecrcd.com/product_fs.htm
Ken
12-27-2004, 12:22 PM
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi,
What do you think? My Sukhoi with a Quadra 75cc was flying excellently. A medium low pass at half throttle, all controls failed and it crashed in front of me into a million pieces. Then I was flying my Aeromaster with a G62 at the same flying site 2 months later. Take off turn left full throttle left again and then no control turned upside down crashed vertically at full throttle. In 15 years i have had crashes caused by engine, mechanical and pilot failure but I have nevere ever had complete radio blackout. These are the first two gas models that I have built. In both cases the planes had just crossed a high tension power line at reasonable height when the blackouts happened. However we fly over these lines nearly every day. The models were flown on different frequencies with different transmitters and receivers. Has anyone else had this sort of disaster ? I am just about to build a Bob Godfrey Ultimate with a 3w 75cc motor I would really not like this to happen again. Any thoughts will be most appreciated.
Cheers,
Colin Gardner
What do you think? My Sukhoi with a Quadra 75cc was flying excellently. A medium low pass at half throttle, all controls failed and it crashed in front of me into a million pieces. Then I was flying my Aeromaster with a G62 at the same flying site 2 months later. Take off turn left full throttle left again and then no control turned upside down crashed vertically at full throttle. In 15 years i have had crashes caused by engine, mechanical and pilot failure but I have nevere ever had complete radio blackout. These are the first two gas models that I have built. In both cases the planes had just crossed a high tension power line at reasonable height when the blackouts happened. However we fly over these lines nearly every day. The models were flown on different frequencies with different transmitters and receivers. Has anyone else had this sort of disaster ? I am just about to build a Bob Godfrey Ultimate with a 3w 75cc motor I would really not like this to happen again. Any thoughts will be most appreciated.
Cheers,
Colin Gardner
12-27-2004, 01:38 PM
#24
Senior Member
RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Very sorry to hear about your airplanes. Welcome to the wonderful world of RC. You have just experienced what I have been going through for the last 5 yrs. If it wasn't for a plane (gas-powered) that I've been flying for the last 10 yrs. I'd probably be out of this hobby. I have lost 2 Aeromasters, one the elevators fluttered took the horizontal stab with them when they left. Second one something went wrong with the radio, went out of control, dove into the ground. Lost a 2 Cap 232's one was to tail heavy, the other was the radio again. Lost a Prime Cut, radio started losing control, and in the ensuing attempt to get it back the wing failed (broke into due to gas seepage into the foam). When I left for AZ. the two planes I have left neither one would range check more than 100' with the engine running. So I closed the door and left. Maybe Mother Nature will freeze some sense into them when I get back. Funny thing though 15 yrs. ago I switched to FM radios and the radio was the least of my worries, now with computer radios, that's all I worry about. I've said from the beginning of my RC experience, I can handle broken airplanes, broken engines, but when the damn radio doesn't work I get very discouraged.
Hang in there cg, I hope it gets better for you.
Dale
When all else fails go plant some corn!! lol!!
Hang in there cg, I hope it gets better for you.
Dale
When all else fails go plant some corn!! lol!!
12-27-2004, 07:42 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston, TX
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RE: Great Planes Giant Aeromaster HELP
Hi CG.
Man thats pretty scarry. What kind of radio and battery setup were you using. Any evidence like battery voltage or anything that might explane? The only time I've had trouble (knocking on wood) is when my fuel tank leaked and flooded my reciever. I had on and off control and was able to put it in the weeds with just minimal damage.
Donnie
Man thats pretty scarry. What kind of radio and battery setup were you using. Any evidence like battery voltage or anything that might explane? The only time I've had trouble (knocking on wood) is when my fuel tank leaked and flooded my reciever. I had on and off control and was able to put it in the weeds with just minimal damage.
Donnie