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As happens when racing my inventory of Q40 models has gotten thin, so I've begun building to fill this gap.

The past couple seasons I have had good luck with my original Miss Ashley (Ashley MM) from Matney Models.
Below are pictures showing a completed model and what you start with. The box shows the content of a double kit.

The link below shows some of Kevin's kits. This model is relatively new and is not shown on the site.
To order a "Miss Ashley" select one of Kevin's other Q40 models and add comments to send a "Miss Ashley".

http://www.matneymodels.com/qm.html

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One of the first steps is the location of the landing gear blocks in the wing.

1. The gear should be located so that the legs are approximately 12" apart. So mark locations about 6" to the sides of the wing dihedral joint.
2. The front of the gear block is located approximately 1 3/4" to 2" back from the leading edge.
3. Use a marker or equivalent to identify where the gear will eventually be mounted.

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The location of the dihedral braces is based upon the location of the gear.

Mark slots where the landing gear block is supported with both braces.

Mark the other wing panel the same way.

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I took my cores to a friend where the slots were cut using a Radial Arm Saw. This process works fine but not everyone has a Radial Arm Saw.

Kevin (from Matney's Models) chooses to cut the slots with a hand saw with a relatively wide blade.

Slots are shown in the picture below:

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The Miss Ashley kit does not have any wood so you will have to purchase some for the model.

The picture shows how I pick the wood.

1. Each sheet is individually weighed.
2. They are then sorted from heaviest to lightest.
3. A group of sheets were selected based upon similar weight.

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A shuck was placed on the shipping box and pins were inserted about 1/4" wider and longer than the shuck.

The pins identify the size of the wing skins.

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Select 3 similar weight balsa sheets. I prefer medium wood for my Q40s as it makes a stiffer wing.

Place the sheets between the pins as shown in the pictures..

The middle sheet is trimmed to fit between the two outside sheets. The remnant is used to fill the remaining sheeting.

Temporarily tape the sheets together and trim the ends of the sheets. Number each sheeting.

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Make 3 more sheets as per the earlier post.

Lay them down and update the tape to make a top and bottom set. I tend to place the heavier sheets on the left side of the model as most of the time tip weight is added on that side.

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The bottom sheeting was joined at the center with masking tape. The top sheeting was also joined at the center with tape.

The top sheeting was placed over the bottom sheeting. Masking tape was wrapped around the trailing edge to join the sheets like a taco. Apply every few inches to make a hinge.

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The tape joining the top sheets was removed at the joint.

The sheets were unfolded and tape was applied on the inside fold joint.

A seam of tape was also applied to the outside at the fold joint.

You should be able to fold the covering at the joint without stressing the sheeting.

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The dihedral spars were made from 1/8" plywood.

1. Plywood pieces were initially cut 12" long by about 1 3/4" wide.
2. A piece was slid into a slot. Make sure it goes down sufficiently.
3. Trace the outline of the foam onto the spar.
4. Measure the dimensions of the center and tip of the spar.
5. Mark onto the spar and cut.
6. Make the other one similarly.

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The top and bottom wing shucks were taped together to make a top and bottom side.

Pieces of wax paper were cut to length and then tacked in place with spray adhesive.

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The location of the landing gear blocks limit where you can attach the carbon fiber strips. I compromised and temporarily taped them in the following locations:

1. One is approximately 7/8" wide by 7 thousandths and is located just behind the landing gear blocks.
2. A second is approximately 3/8" wide by 7 thousandths and is located in front of the landing gear blocks.in
3. A third one (optional) is also approximately 3/8" wide by 7 thousandths and is located about 1 3/4" in front of the trailing edge.

I wanted to stiffen up my wing so I tried something new. The area that looks like "XX"s are actually pieces of carbon fiber tow. These were temporarily taped in place.

A piece of 1.6 ounce fiberglass cloth was laid on the sheeting and was trimmed to rough fit.

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The next few pictures shows the installation of a piece of carbon fiber. You should have everything ready to sheet the wing prior to this point as finishing epoxy is being mixed:

1. A 36" x 1/2" x 14 thousandths piece of carbon was laid on the surface.
2. I marked the slot location with a marker.
3. A razor saw was used to cut a slot for the carbon.
4. The carbon was test fit.
5. Mix some finishing epoxy and apply on plywood spars and carbon.
6. Reinstall the spars and carbon.

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Mix about 1.25 ounces of finishing epoxy and drizzle it onto the top or bottoms sheeting.

Use a squeegee to spread the epoxy onto the surface.

Do the other side the same way.

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The core was placed between the sheets and parts were aligned with the marks.

Pin each side of the core so that it does not move while drying.

Apply the top shuck and pin and tape it in place.

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I use the tarp and caulking method to make my vacuum bags. I buy sheets of plastic that are 3' wide and 4 mills thick. A section was cut long enough to cover the entire wing.

• Verify that you vacuum pump is working properly. Mine is set the pull about 6" of Hg vacuum and shut off.
• The wing was laid on the plastic.
• A piece of rope was laid at the seam.
• The vacuum tube was taped in place near the seam.
• A section of paper towel was applied on top of the wing. This allows the vacuum to flow.
• A relatively thick bead of caulking was applied around the wing.
• The plastic was folded over the wing and a seal was formed with the caulking.
• A couple quart paint containers were used to hold parts in place.
• The vacuum pump was turned on and any leaks were addressed.

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Today I vacuum bagged a second wing. The detailed steps were covered earlier.

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The leading and trailing edges were trimmed with razor saw and sanding block.

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The leading edge was moistened with water prior to applying Gorilla Glue.

A thin bead of glue was applied and 1/4" thick pieces of balsa wood were attached with masking tape.

Wings were set out of the way to dry.

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A knife and sanding block were used to rough in the leading edge.

The center of the wing must be fitted to go in the wing saddle. I used a sanding block to fit the leading edge of the wing.

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The wing tips for this model will be slightly less than 2" wide and the wood needs to be about 1/2" thick.

I used 1/4" thick light balsa and placed a piece of fiberglass cloth between the layers.

Some finishing epoxy was spread on the fiberglass cloth and the top balsa was applied.

The assembly was placed in the vacuum bag and allowed to dry overnight.

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Some landing gear blocks were cut out of 1/4" thick plywood.

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The gear is located approximately 12" wide. It should be located so that the front is located approximately 2 1/4" back from leading edge.

If the gear is too far back the model will nose over on takeoff. If the gear is too far forward the model will bounce on landing.

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The sheeting was removed and a Dremel was used to adjust the gear hole and spars.

A mix of finishing epoxy and micro balloons was used to glue the blocks in place.