T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
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T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Im gonna buy a new 2.5 T-Maxx and I was wondering what parts I should by with it. Maybe you guys could list some parts I should buy, for instance, parts that break easily that can be upgraded to aluminum?
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
new to RC?
leave it stock the parts are cheaper to replace when you break them. at least till you are used to driving the truck. spend your extra money on glowplugs, fuel, fuel bottle, couple of 7.2v battery packs for starter, good charger, and 6v RX battery pack
leave it stock the parts are cheaper to replace when you break them. at least till you are used to driving the truck. spend your extra money on glowplugs, fuel, fuel bottle, couple of 7.2v battery packs for starter, good charger, and 6v RX battery pack
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Not new at all. I've had a Duratrax Max ST for about 5 years now, I'm just interested to know what parts break easily because I've been told that the T-Maxx is "fragile" and that you can't really go out for a day of bashing without breaking something. I've always thought that the T-Maxx was fairly durable. My ST is pretty hopped up and I still have to be careful with it because it IS "fragile"
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Get some RPM A-arms, they are a lot stronger than the stock ones, and if you manage to break them from a crash, RPM will replace them for free. Also, grab an extra spur gear or two, and some extra bulkheads/skidplates.
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Id leave the bulkheads stock. If you go to aluminum you will bend the chassis, or break it. Ive tried the aluminum bulkhead trick, broke the chassis faster than the stock bulkhead broke.
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Yeah, I dont think aluminum bulkheads are necesarry. Ive only broke one of the stock ones and that was because I clipped the curb (trying to slide into my driveway) at about 30mph.
I would say get the RPM a-arms and aluminum bodied shocks.
Ive got aluminum skids on mine, both of mine got bent though. The front from running into stuff (IE my ramp) and the rear from it landing on its' ass.
I would say get the RPM a-arms and aluminum bodied shocks.
Ive got aluminum skids on mine, both of mine got bent though. The front from running into stuff (IE my ramp) and the rear from it landing on its' ass.
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
get rid of the eletric start and get a pull start...put one on my revo and love it to death, much easier to start and makes it a little bit lighter.
#9
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
get rid of the eletric start and get a pull start...put one on my revo and love it to death, much easier to start and makes it a little bit lighter.
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Here is the list of parts I would get to have around for bashing:
1. Aluminum Bulkheads.
2. RPM A-Arms. A set for the front and rear
3. Spur Gears and Slipper pegs.
4. A good screw set.
5. Glow plugs
6. Servo savers
7. Hinge Pins and Turnbuckles and rod ends.
1. Aluminum Bulkheads.
2. RPM A-Arms. A set for the front and rear
3. Spur Gears and Slipper pegs.
4. A good screw set.
5. Glow plugs
6. Servo savers
7. Hinge Pins and Turnbuckles and rod ends.
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
ORIGINAL: DebianDog
That's insane! Why would I want to pull when I can push a button?
get rid of the eletric start and get a pull start...put one on my revo and love it to death, much easier to start and makes it a little bit lighter.
1. dont have to charge battery packs.
2. dont have to lug around the control thinggy, or its battery packs.
3. dont have to mess with the controlers constant false flooded engine readings.
4. makes your car lighter, which puts less strees on the already overstressed smallblock engine.
5. makes the chassis less cramped, and in turn easier to work on.
#12
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
How much weight? an ounce or two? As opposed to all the heavy aluminum parts I have and a steel rollcage? Bah!
Then when you are having trouble starting it or it is cold and you need to crank it for 20 30 seconds before it starts running right.
Pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pu ll..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull .. putter putter pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull.. putter putter putter putter putter pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..
Screw that. I will give you #1 and #5. Never ran into #3. If the starter locks, for me, it is flooded. That happens so rarely though.
Judging by your sig you switched to electrics... probably because you got tired of "pulling" LOL
Then when you are having trouble starting it or it is cold and you need to crank it for 20 30 seconds before it starts running right.
Pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pu ll..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull .. putter putter pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..pull.. putter putter putter putter putter pull..pull..pull..pull..pull..
Screw that. I will give you #1 and #5. Never ran into #3. If the starter locks, for me, it is flooded. That happens so rarely though.
Judging by your sig you switched to electrics... probably because you got tired of "pulling" LOL
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
I have had the pull start for awhile and it has never taken more then 3 tries and it always fires up. I have also had the electric before the pull start. Electric is nice because of the push of a button but sucks becuase its easy to flood, have to charge battery, have to carry all that crap around. By the way its just our opinion no need to get all hasty about it. It just a suggestion if you dont like the pull start then dont get it.
#14
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Then start it... then put the body on... then if it stalls. Take it apart. NO THANKS!
I am not "hasty" but telling the guy to rip out his electric start because YOU GUYS don't like them is silly.
I have two batteries and switch them out every other time out (one day battery A then the next day battery B). No big deal.
You have to take fuel, tools, the tool box, controller, etc.. etc.. whats the big deal about grabbing the starter. Mine is always in the box with the fuel, fuel bottle and tool/parts box.
I am not "hasty" but telling the guy to rip out his electric start because YOU GUYS don't like them is silly.
I have two batteries and switch them out every other time out (one day battery A then the next day battery B). No big deal.
You have to take fuel, tools, the tool box, controller, etc.. etc.. whats the big deal about grabbing the starter. Mine is always in the box with the fuel, fuel bottle and tool/parts box.
#15
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
Been looking at this for a new field kit. Notice the starter hanging.
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro....5177.5194.0.0
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro....5177.5194.0.0
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RE: T-Maxx Questions (2.5)
ORIGINAL: DebianDog
Then start it... then put the body on... then if it stalls. Take it apart. NO THANKS!
I am not "hasty" but telling the guy to rip out his electric start because YOU GUYS don't like them is silly.
Then start it... then put the body on... then if it stalls. Take it apart. NO THANKS!
I am not "hasty" but telling the guy to rip out his electric start because YOU GUYS don't like them is silly.
Why would you ahve to take the body off? If youre running a truck body just cut out some of the bed.
I never said I didnt like it nor did I say he switch to a pull start. I pointed out its flaws and reasons why a person would choose a pull starter over it. For a newb its good, but for me its just a hindrance.
For the record, Ive still got it on my T-maxx, but have changed it up so I dont have to mess with the controller. Now I just hook up a battery pack straight to the motor.
Next time I get some extra cash (as in cash that wont be spent on racing stuff for my electrics) im switching the EZ-starter for a rotostart style system.