sport pilot

I'am currently trying a new fuel, for both 4s and 2s engines. It is 15%nitro and 18% syn/oil. I thought I read some where in a article, that if you use fuel containing only synthetic oil, you should use an after run oil after each end of day of operation. Any ideas here either way?

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

There is a huge amount of discussion that has taken place on this issue in this forum. Do a search and make up your own mind from the results you get. This is and will remain a touchy issue with many people.

Personally I have been using it for a very long time and have never replaced a bearing due to rust. Marvel Air Tool oil is the acknowledged standard.

Vince

Rodney

Use of after run oil has never hurt anything, lack of it has. The use of any air tool oil is okay. Rislone (in the yellow container) is also good. Marvel Mystry oil is not the best, however Marvel Mystry Air Tool oil is good. The main reason for using the oil is to displace the residue of the nitro which reacts with any moisture (and there is always moisture present) to form nitric acid which is very corrosive. When you use after run oil, especially in 4 strokes, use plenty. Put at least a teaspoon full thru the crankcase vent and a bit less thru the venturie. Turn the engine over by hand a few times with the engine oriented to let gravity flow the oil around the two main bearings. Putting just a drop or two into the top end or carb is just a waste of time, might as well not use any.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

For what it's worth...

I have used Cool Power 15% for about 12 years now in 2 and 4-strokes. I have never used any after run oil, and have never needed to replace a bearing.

Nuker

I run out the engine at the end of day then add 2-3 drops of afterrun. Can't say if it helped or not but it's cheap insurance and when I store the plane nose down the oil sits in the bearing. No rust yet.

Bob aka Nuker

Bill Vargas

My Feedback: (5)

After run oil is very simple stuff to use and make. I waste no time after the days over for flying for the use of After Run Oil. What I do is this,,, run the engine to burn up any un-used fuel in the engine,,, remove glowplug,,, and begin to pour the oil down the intake. When the oil has reached the top of the carb, I hit the engine with a starter to get the oil circulated,,, I normally repeat this proceedure about 3-4 times or till it starts running out the plug hole or the exhaust. Reinstall plug.

This might sound like overkill,,, but at 400 bucks a pop for My Nelson Q500's, its cheap insurance

The recipe for the do it yourself'ers,,, Find an empty fuel can,,, rinse it out with alcohol,,, add 1 qt of Mobile synthetic oil, add 1 qt
of marvel mystery oil and about 1/4 to 1/2 qt of slick 50,,, shake it all up and fill your little bottle prior to the days events and dont be afraid to use it generously.

BV
NMPRA 41C

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

It's an automatic part of packing up at the end of the flying day. If you replace enough bearings over the years, you'll do it!

Bonefrost

My Feedback: (6)

The guy at the RC car shop said to use WD-40.I don't know.What do you guts think?
BNZ'

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

EEEK!!,WD40
Don't use that, it evaporates way to quickly and then your left with nothing. maybe use it to clean whole you disassembling the engine, but that's it.

Also be very cautious using after run in YS 4 stokes, if any gets into the pump/diaphragm area, petroleum based products will attack the silicon diaphragm.

I personal am bad about this,
and I do pay the price, with maintenance costs.
if your going to run you engine once or twice a week, you are probably ok. but if your letting it sit for a few weeks in between runs. then putting it away oiled up is the smart play. and if you putting it away for the season it's a must.

P.S. Rodney.
Could you explain the process for pouring a teaspoon of oil into a crankcase vent? :spinnyeye

Rodney

Scale_only_4_me, its easy. I keep my after run oil in a squeeze bottle with a short length of fuel line on the nozzel. Just connect the line to the nipple on the crankcase and squeeze.

rickwallace45

My Feedback: (3)

2 options that seem to work --

Many at my field use Mobil-1 synthetic just as it comes from the store - put it in a squeeze bottle -- squirt it in the carb and spin the engine w/ a starter. Mobil 1 is full synthetic oil -- and that doesn't hurt the diaphragms and gaskets in YS engines.

Only downside is that if you overoil w/ Mobil 1, it's a bit tough to start the engine next time.

Another alternative is AMSOIL Metal Protectant - in a spray can - after flying ( and running out the glow fuel) I squirt the venturi ful then run the engine on the Amsoil propellant - do this three times then squirt it full, and spin the engine w/ the starter -
the close the throttle completely and go home.

I've heard WD-40 has silicone in it / and that's not good for engines???

Steve Guinn

Courtesy of O.S. Engines

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How do I use after run oil?
We recommend application through the glow plug hole or through the air inlet. When O.S. states to not put after-run oil into the carb, they are referring to the fuel inlet. If you introduce the oil into the air inlet, you will have no problems.

When you use after-run oil, 2-5 drops are next to useless. You'll need to literally flood the engine with oil, so much so that the next time you start the engine, it will be difficult. We use at least a 1/2 teaspoon of oil, and sometimes more. A 3 oz. bottle of oil lasts about a dozen flying sessions.

If you are going to store your model and are worried about it dripping out, you might try a shower cap over the engine and also cotton plugs in the exhaust to avoid dripping. We also recommend a cotton cloth in the carb to minimize fuel leakage.

rctrax

I run both 4s and 2s and for many years. I never use afterrun oil and have never replaced a bearing.

keith cornetet

My Feedback: (2)

Whats in "3 in 1" oil . It has a small tip and available . ?? Thanks , KEITH

Rodney

3 in 1 oil is to thin to be of any use as an after run oil. Remember, the only reason to use after run oil is to displace any moisture or nitro residue that lurks in the bowels of your engine. You must use enough to displace them and leave a passive coating that stays on the metal. That is why Marvel Mystry Oil, WD 40 and 3-in-1 doesn't do the job. Note Marvel Mystry Air Tool oil is okay as is any air tool oil. The least expensive is probably Rislone (in the yellow can) and as good as any other.

Sport_Pilot

It's about 5W (my estimate) which is a lot thicker than the Rislone and MMATO you recommend.

BWooster

I know 3 in 1 is vegatable based, but I don't know if it has castor oil in it.

I have never used after run oil, and have never had ill effects. But we have low relative humidity here, and I think that has something to do with it.

Interesting, Norvel says do not use after run oil in their engines -- use pure castor oil. I bought a bottle from the drugstore. If I disassemble an engine, I use it for the reassembly. Works well.

Rodney

Medicinal (drug store) castor oil is not degummed and not suitable for model engine use. Get degummed castor at your local hobby shop or you can order from Sig or some other mail order place.
As to those who remove a glow plug to put in after run oil, you are flirting with problems. It is easy to cross thread or strip out glow plug threads in the head therefore do as little plug in/out operations as possible. On a 4 stroke, it does little if any good to put the oil into the glow plug orfice or carb throat, must go into the crankcase to do any good. On a 2 stroke, just put it in the carb throat as it will get to everplace it need to get to when you then turn the motor over a few times.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

From the Omega website http://www.morganfuel.com/omega_faq.htm#4

the-plumber

Actually, if you use WD-40 you _are_ left with something, something you don't really want. Here's a simple test to prove it - spray a heavy coating of WD-40 on a piece of scrap metal, and let it sit for a few weeks. What you'll find is a thin coating of yuck that more closely resembles label adhesive than oil.

I've made several paychecks over the years freeing up food processing equipment, mostly slicers, which were inoperable because the customers had "lubricated" the things with WD-40.

WD-40 is good stuff, as long as you understand that it is primarily a solvent, not a lubricant.

fredscz

My Feedback: (47)

I read years ago that wd-40 was "Water displacement formula number 40". It is good to spray on the outside of metal that you do not want to rust[a temporary fix only]. It is also very good at freeing up any rust that is already present so if you have rust in your engine it will turn it loose to go everywhere inside your engine. If you have some wd just look at the top of the can around the spray nozzle and look at the sticky goop left when the wd evaporates.
FB

Sport_Pilot

It's mineral based. Basically the same oil used for guns and sewing machines. I have a sewing machine I have inherited that had not been used for three decades, no gumming or rust.

Sport_Pilot

Wrong, in fact there is no such thing as degummed oil. It's a misnomer for the first pressed oil, it really never had any gum to degum. The beans are pressed enough that the beans break open. The oil is drained off and filtered, this is Baker's AA. Then the pressed as hard as possible, the oil that is drainded off from the second pressing is filtered and graded Bakers A. The second pressing contains gum and organics from the bean shell. This may contain ricin poisen, therefore it is unsuitable for drugstore oil. Drugstore oil is much more expensive because it is tested to be sure it has no poisen. Otherwise it works just as good if not better than Bakers AA.

CafeenMan

A few guys have said that you have to run the fuel out of your engine before adding the after run oil. But there's a right way and wrong way to do that.

If you run the engine at full throttle until it quits you might think all the fuel is out, but it's not. There's still fuel in the engine but not enough for it to run at full throttle.

After the engine quits at the full throttle setting, move the throttle to idle and start it up again. It will probably run for several seconds. Keep starting it until it just won't kick. You've now gotten about all the fuel out of the engine that you can.

Now you can add the after run oil of your choice - or not depending on who you believe and whether you like living dangerously or just want to prove a point.

alan0899

G'day Mate, I couldn't agree more, about the running out procedure. I personally use after run oil, as described by our friend Clarence Lee, 50% Air tool oil & 50% ATF, automatic transmission oil, has worked for me for years, the ATF neutralises any nitro left inside motor to prevent rust & the air tool oil, provides lubrication, for the next time it is run. Use plenty it won't hurt & the motor will only be slightly harder to start, next time it is run.
Good Flyin Guys.
Allan.